Oh, the joys of proper exterior lighting on a vehicle!
HIDs, or as correctly known as High Intensity Discharge lights, are coveted... constantly.
And the only way to get good fitting / looking HIDs was buying OEM components.
That was until Helix and Eastern Euro Tuning (EET) (PLEASE NOTE: EET is having some business problems) brought out replica OEM projector housings.
I, like many, DROOLED in thought of owning HIDs...
Taking the challenge, I bought the headlights to give them a whirl.
- Disclaimer -
As always, I am NOT responsible for the careless acts of others when using this DIY as a reference.
Basically all of you are smart enough not to stab yourself, the very important wiring, or the paint on your car.
Be careful and take any precautionary measures that you deem necessary for completing this task.
* Helix HX Bora OEM HID Replica Headlights (pair - left + right)
- includes two euro harnesses, two American harnesses, four D2S bulb holders, three blanks to fill in euro harness holes, and HID-harness jumper
* (2x) D2S bulbs + ballasts
* (2x) BAX9S city light bulbs / LEDs
* (2x) H21W halogen bulbs (Audi P/N #N-104-456-02)
* (2x) H7 headlight bulbs
* (4x) 1/4" male spade electrical connectors (if HID-harness jumpers are not included)
* flathead screwdriver
* Phillips screwdriver
* electrical crimper
* Sharpie marker
- Remove backside cover with headlight connection on it
- Remove European 12-pin connector + harness from headlight housing
- Dremel off excess flash off the American 10-pin connector to allow proper fitment
- Install American 10-pin connector + harness that came with headlights (retainer tab facing upwards)
- Install H7, BAX9S, and H21W (do not touch H7 glass) and connect to appropriate wiring harness connections [Figure #3]
- Remove HID backside cover, install D2S bulb with retainer ring
- Wire HID leads to headlight harness through headlight housing [Figure #3]
- Install male spade electrical connections if HID-harness jumper is not included
- Install ballast connection to D2S bulb, allow wire to hang naturally
- Place HID backside cover over the seem and determine appropriate place + size for wiring hole; mark accordingly
- Dremel out hole at the seal connection to allow ballast connection and HID leads to pass through backside cover
- Optional: mount ballasts to headlight housings; some ingenuity and extra supplies may be required depending on ballast holder...
- Install on vehicle, testing light output first, by removing the grill, front fasica and existing headlights
Figure #1: The headlight package from EET; hidden from view are two D2S retainer rings, and one European harness
Figure #2: The bulbs and extras (Lamin-x for the headlights); not shown are the H7's
Figure #3: The American 10-pin connector wiring harness [starting at top, going counter-clockwise]
- H21W socket (green, black)
- Rheostat connector? (red, black, brown) - NOT USED!
- BAX9S socket (red, black)
- H7 socket (white, brown)
- D2S female terminals (yellow [positive +], brown [grown, negative -])
Figure #4: Ballast mounted, and all covers on headlight housing
Full Detail Review:
After researching from other who purchased the headlights, they said it would be a straight plug-n-play modification.
It was! The only electrical installation I had to make was adding male spade connections for the HID ballast leads.
I was hoping that the ballasts could mount underneath the housing similar to the OEM HIDs...
However, upon installation, the ballasts sit too low and deep into the engine bay.
There was interference with the intercooler-throttle body charge pipe (passenger), and the battery (driver).
But, after removing them from the housings, they fit snug inbetween the wash tank (passenger) and the battery (driver) without issue.
Fitment + Finish
The housings fit great in the front clip assembly.
Body lines and overall fit + finish is spectacular for aftermarket lights.
And the price is reasonable compared to hard to find and overly expensive OEM HIDs.
Aiming / Alignment
This can be debated, but assumed the projectors should be leveled at the same way incadecent European (e-codes) headlights are.
Upon that, I run out of physical adjustment on the headlights using the screw dials, and they were still to low.
Therefore, I had to shim the lower two mounting tabs to "lift" up the housing to get correct aiming.
Was impressed to have HIDs on my car...
And it was very different; especially for an owner who's always had North American reflectors with normal bulbs.
The 'cutoff' does have a slight slope on both side of the angle but that doesn't affect light output.
But the 'cutoff' provided a definite line between the road and road signs, etc.
Thanks to xposed, turdbogls, and Matthew@EET for all the help and guideance.
Modified by bluefox280 at 7:56 PM 9-27-2006
Modified by bluefox280 at 5:47 PM 1-24-2007