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    Thread: Ultimate Timing Belt DIY!

    1. Member DowNnOuTDubin's Avatar
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      20th AE 3366
      10-20-2010 08:08 PM #526
      Well the timing marks are fail proof on the cam sprocket and crank pulley. If you used the flywheel it would be a lot easier to be off a tooth. Just crank it over a few times by hand and make sure the marks line up each time on the factory marks

      ECStuning has a kit that gives you all the stretch bolts that are needed to be replaced. There are 3 on the mount that bolts to the block and 2 that bolt the other part of the mount to the chassis. That's the only ones I can think off the top of my head that needed to be replaced. Like I said anything that is slightly green needs to be replaced. FYI some of the water pump and the cover bolts (same ones) are easily stripped.

      There is no need for a hoist. An extra jack might be helpful to help you get a bit of extra room (10-15mm tops )

      Also both of your intake and exhaust cams are on a chain. So the camshaft sprocket aren't easily turned. Also the same with the compression you have on your bottom end with your crank moving. There shouldn't be an issue of those turning.

    2. 10-20-2010 08:38 PM #527
      Thanks! Good information!

    3. Member Znsale01's Avatar
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      10-21-2010 09:31 AM #528
      Just to clarify, you have to put the side motor mount piece on the engine before getting the timing belt on the cranks right? If so I had my timing perfect (marked old belt and cam and lower crank 2 top marks 1 lower mark) and everything up to the timing cover put on then read by other people on here that the side mount had to be on first.


      Also what could I use as a t-belt tensioner pin since I pulled the original and misplaced it. VW shop said I would have to buy a whole new tensioner!
      Last edited by Znsale01; 10-21-2010 at 10:47 AM.

    4. Member Znsale01's Avatar
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      2004 Jetta GLS 1.8t
      10-21-2010 02:49 PM #529
      someones gotta know I'm starting in 2 hours and would love to have this info by then!

    5. 10-21-2010 09:55 PM #530
      Quote Originally Posted by Znsale01 View Post
      Also what could I use as a t-belt tensioner pin since I pulled the original and misplaced it. VW shop said I would have to buy a whole new tensioner!
      I used a very small allen wrench. a drill bit that size would work too. btw, the allen wrench bent a little under the pressure, but not so much that it couldn't be pulled out.

    6. 10-21-2010 10:25 PM #531
      There is no need for a hoist. An extra jack might be helpful to help you get a bit of extra room (10-15mm tops )


      I see you are laughing but I get the feeling you're quite serious.

    7. Member Znsale01's Avatar
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      2004 Jetta GLS 1.8t
      10-22-2010 08:45 AM #532
      Everything is connected and the cam and flyweel marks line up and the belt is ready to be put on. I was able to put the belt on perfectly the first time i got it on, so it should be smooth sailing from here

    8. Member ypsetihw's Avatar
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      10-22-2010 03:41 PM #533
      used this a few months back and it went off without a hitch. I definitely wouldn't have tried this by myself, but with my mechanic buddy and a couple aderol we tore it through in about 7 hours start to finish.

      worst part, of everything that could have gone wrong, I LOST MY WHEEL LOCK
      ypsetihw :: [face! -_-] :: bandimere spdwy :: 15.503 @ 90.15
      apr 93 :: bkr7e :: hp-3001 :: cone :: n75h :: relo'd forge 007 :: vent'd catch
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      brembo slots :: hawk hps :: borbet exor 17s :: blue tows :: stubby :: vdo boost

    9. 10-24-2010 06:10 PM #534
      It appears this whole thread has been about a "Transverse" engine" not "Longitudinal". I presume everything is the same (as far as the procedure goes) with the exception of having to deal with the engine mount.

      Mine is Longitudinal, I wonder how common this is and why VW would make the same car with different orientation in engines! Or maybe they didn't make the car in '03 with transverse engine?? I don't know.

      Also, I couldn't find the three character code that is supposed to be stamped on the tab on the block, the tab IS there but it is slick with no stamp. ECS told me it also may be found in the trunk under the mat near the spare tire, I did find the code but it was off by itself on a tag and didn't indicate that it had anything to do with the engine. ECS also told me that you need that code, the entire kit is the same for different engines (i.e. tensioner, idler, water pump etc), with the exception of the timing belt, one belt is longer depending on your code. There are four different 3 character codes that pertain to this engine (1.8T). They are as follows...AEB, ATW, AUG, and AWM. Mine happens to be AWM (or at least I hope it is because that's the kit I ordered). Like I said, there was nothing near the code to indicate it had anything to do with the engine but it was the only code I could find that matched any of the four!

      In other words...My timing belt is towards the front of the car behind the grill and the fans, NOT facing the passenger side of the car!
      Last edited by FLA-BORN; 10-24-2010 at 06:18 PM.

    10. 10-28-2010 04:00 PM #535
      If not for the engine mount, this job (although it takes a lot of time) would be a piece of cake.

    11. 10-28-2010 04:03 PM #536
      What model do you have? All mkiv Jettas should be transverse.

      Quote Originally Posted by FLA-BORN View Post
      It appears this whole thread has been about a "Transverse" engine" not "Longitudinal". I presume everything is the same (as far as the procedure goes) with the exception of having to deal with the engine mount.

      Mine is Longitudinal, I wonder how common this is and why VW would make the same car with different orientation in engines! Or maybe they didn't make the car in '03 with transverse engine?? I don't know.

      Also, I couldn't find the three character code that is supposed to be stamped on the tab on the block, the tab IS there but it is slick with no stamp. ECS told me it also may be found in the trunk under the mat near the spare tire, I did find the code but it was off by itself on a tag and didn't indicate that it had anything to do with the engine. ECS also told me that you need that code, the entire kit is the same for different engines (i.e. tensioner, idler, water pump etc), with the exception of the timing belt, one belt is longer depending on your code. There are four different 3 character codes that pertain to this engine (1.8T). They are as follows...AEB, ATW, AUG, and AWM. Mine happens to be AWM (or at least I hope it is because that's the kit I ordered). Like I said, there was nothing near the code to indicate it had anything to do with the engine but it was the only code I could find that matched any of the four!

      In other words...My timing belt is towards the front of the car behind the grill and the fans, NOT facing the passenger side of the car!

    12. 10-31-2010 03:33 PM #537
      Quote Originally Posted by biggoodjohn View Post
      What model do you have? All mkiv Jettas should be transverse.
      I have a 2003 Passat 1.8T, and since I posted earlier I decided to have this done by my mechanic, due to available time lately, not ability. I went by Friday to take him another part and he had the grill and bumper, headlights, etc off and had it up on a lift a little so it was basically at chest height to make it easier to get to. It appears that the biggest part of this job is taking those items off to be able to access everything. Once you get the front tore down this is a piece of cake (if you have mechanical experience).

    13. Member
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      11-03-2010 08:15 PM #538
      So I just finished mine and my new belt frayed on one of the edges when I started it for the first time...

    14. Junior Member boosted05's Avatar
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      11-10-2010 02:36 AM #539
      Quote Originally Posted by aforsberg View Post
      So I just finished mine and my new belt frayed on one of the edges when I started it for the first time...
      that sucks bro....did you make sure it was on all the pulley's flush? either way, i just did mine as well along with a metal impellar water pump, took 5 hours from start to finish. i didn't install the middle cover though, i forgot. i can't get it back on either without removing the acc belt tensioner and the motor mount.... is this ok to run like it is or do i need to tear it back apart?

    15. 11-15-2010 02:30 PM #540
      Just did this this past Saturday. Stared 8:00am with one buddy, a few distractions, and some yelling at the new tiing belt not wanting to go on, but finished up at 3:30pm. Not to bad for the first time.

      the ECS tuning kit really was super helpful. I didn't really lose any coolant when I pulled the water pumpso the extra coolant will stay on the shelf but it's always nice to have extra.

      Harest part was getting the new belt on since the old one was sorta stretched. I ended up putting the belt on the cam gear, then around the roller, then around the crank, and then took a pry bar and yanked on the belt until it slipped over the water pump. I chose the water pump because the gear had the least surface area on it...?

      Definately doable for someone who has some patience. Just remember to double, and triple check those marks because while putting the belt on, you can see the crank gear moving and the cam not moving sometimes, so you have to pull it all off, re align the marks, and then try again.

      Best of luck,

      -C

    16. 11-16-2010 06:53 AM #541
      Here's a tip to get the new belt on.
      It was told to me by a VW techy that does these belts all day (2 hours a belt change !!)

      The techy told me to put the belt on all the sprockets except the water pump (with all marks lined up TDC). Then rotate the bottom crank sprocket anti-clockwise JUST ONE TOOTH. (easy to see if you have a mark on the sprocket).

      What this does is move all the slack in the timing belt from the compressed tensioner side to the pump side and you can "just about" pull the cam belt over the water pump sprocket using your hands (wear leather gloves as the pump sprocket is really sharp).
      Note at this point the belt should be correctly situated on the top and bottom sprockets so you are not affecting timing, just moving belt slack towards the pump. (If I remember the top sprocket did not even move).

      NB I knew the timing was OK, as I marked the old belt and both sprockets and transferred these marks to the new belt.
      Last edited by Iangti7777; 11-16-2010 at 07:03 AM.

    17. 11-16-2010 05:54 PM #542
      Quote Originally Posted by Iangti7777 View Post
      Here's a tip to get the new belt on.
      It was told to me by a VW techy that does these belts all day (2 hours a belt change !!)

      The techy told me to put the belt on all the sprockets except the water pump (with all marks lined up TDC). Then rotate the bottom crank sprocket anti-clockwise JUST ONE TOOTH. (easy to see if you have a mark on the sprocket).

      What this does is move all the slack in the timing belt from the compressed tensioner side to the pump side and you can "just about" pull the cam belt over the water pump sprocket using your hands (wear leather gloves as the pump sprocket is really sharp).
      Note at this point the belt should be correctly situated on the top and bottom sprockets so you are not affecting timing, just moving belt slack towards the pump. (If I remember the top sprocket did not even move).

      NB I knew the timing was OK, as I marked the old belt and both sprockets and transferred these marks to the new belt.
      This is EXACTLY what I had to do, kinda figured it out by trial and error. Every time I tried it without doing this method my timing would be off by one tooth. Do it this way and rotate the engine around by hand a few times and you'll see it comes out dead nuts every time. I did not transfer any marks from my old belt to my new one either.

    18. 11-19-2010 01:32 AM #543
      does anybody possibly have a picture of the harmonic balancer pulley? idk where thats at. i jus got done taking the accesory belt off and the accesory belt tensioner. next it says to take the harmonic balancer pulley then align the TDC. (sorry for repeating but giving as much info as possible)

      thanks in advance!

    19. 11-19-2010 04:33 AM #544
      You cannot miss it, its the big pulley on the crank (at the bottom of the engine).
      It drives the accessory belt, its held on with four allen bolts.
      Make sure you fully locate your allen key sockets in the bolts otherwise they are easy to round out.

    20. 11-19-2010 10:10 AM #545
      alright thanks man! so its the pulley at the bottom of this picture? the one on the right or the left?



      accessory belt diagram


    21. 11-19-2010 11:26 AM #546
      Left (on the crank), the three pulleys on the right are alternator, Aircon pump and steering pump.

      No disrespect meant, but are you sure your up to doing this job.
      The DIY makes it sound a breeze, but it can be a pig of a job due to the lack of clearance.

    22. 11-19-2010 01:03 PM #547
      yeah haha i jus didnt know what the harmonic balancer pulley was thats all... other than that i know all the other stuff. but thanks dude and no offense takin haha

    23. 11-21-2010 06:40 PM #548
      i jus put the belt back on and matched up the marks on the belt and the gears. they matched perfectly. and then i cranked it over by hand twice and the first time it went around it didnt match up. the second time it didnt match up either. is that normal? i counted teeth and they are both off by 12 teeth. but when i put it on it matched perfect.

    24. 11-22-2010 01:49 AM #549
      Its Normal.
      Once you crank the engine any belt to sprocket marks get out of sync.
      To check the timing,use the TDC mark on the Cam sprocket and on the flywheel.
      They should perfectly aligned when piston one is at its compression stroke (TDC) and again every two rotations of the crank.

    25. 11-22-2010 02:37 AM #550
      Quote Originally Posted by Iangti7777 View Post
      Its Normal.
      Once you crank the engine any belt to sprocket marks get out of sync.
      To check the timing,use the TDC mark on the Cam sprocket and on the flywheel.
      They should perfectly aligned when piston one is at its compression stroke (TDC) and again every two rotations of the crank.
      alright thanks man i jus checked it and when the cam is aligned with the valve cover mark the flywheel is off by a teeth. do i need to re put the timing belt back on again??

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