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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Ultimate Timing Belt DIY!

    1. 01-16-2007 05:00 PM #51
      Quote, originally posted by White Jetta »
      It's just to transfer the marks to the new belt and be able to put it back on exactly as it came off, tooth for tooth between the pulleys. The marks would go from the belt onto the pulley before removing it. It's just for another measure of safety on this "get it right once or be sorry" operation.

      That, and since it is easy for the cam to bump over one way or the other withthe belt off, the marks are just a fail safe to make sure everything is where it ought to be. The new belt doesn't just "slip on", it takes quite a bit of force to get it on, and it is real easy to move things around. But if you make sure all of you marks line up, you know you are good to go.
      Like I said, we don't even put the engine at TDC. Just mark the belt and the gears, transfer the marks to the new belt and put it back on. Keep the makrs all lined up and you know it is right. Once everythig is back together, we do turn the engine over by hand, just to verify that it is indeed in time.
      As for 02-03 cars being consistantly a tooth off... I'd be a bit leery of the shop that told me that.
      I was a man... I was a good man... Selling insurance...

    2. Member T-Boy's Avatar
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      01-16-2007 05:03 PM #52
      Quote, originally posted by White Jetta »
      You should be fine because i've done exactly what you did on my old DSM several times. Always pulled the pin out too early

      Man, I don't wanna be around you guys with gernades....

    3. 01-16-2007 05:07 PM #53
      Quote, originally posted by Tetzuoe »
      if you lign up all the marks everything should be fine and you dont have to mark be the belt BUT, in my case after two revolutions the marks were off by about two teeth,

      The marks on the belt are only good for reinstallation. Once you turn over the motor, they are useless, unless you go back the same number of turns you went forward or vice versa.
      I was a man... I was a good man... Selling insurance...

    4. Member White Jetta's Avatar
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      Why don't you take a seat over there
      01-16-2007 07:11 PM #54
      1.BillyT is the man to listen to, thanks for clearing things up a bit [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Sent on a Post-It by way of carrier pigeon

    5. Moderator groggory's Avatar
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      01-18-2007 01:31 PM #55
      Quote, originally posted by 1.BillyT »
      As for 02-03 cars being consistantly a tooth off... I'd be a bit leery of the shop that told me that.

      All I know is that my brother had his belt replaced at that shop, and after the new belt his car pulled better, idled better, and just felt overall stronger.
      But then again, they did replace a cracked hose too. (the Y hose that comes from the PCV and sits on top of the engine)
      My Build
      My FAQ / DIY Thread -- Look here for 90% of the questions you have

      Welcome to the world of racing! Budgets are ALWAYS exceeded, deadlines are never met, end-goals never reached, and wives always unhappy... it's all worth it though!

    6. 01-18-2007 03:54 PM #56
      yeah, it's realy possible that your brother's jumped time. But to say they are consistantly off a tooth just isn't true.
      I was a man... I was a good man... Selling insurance...

    7. 03-09-2007 02:18 PM #57
      One question...
      How do you release the tension on the old belt before removing it.

    8. 03-09-2007 05:22 PM #58
      Quote, originally posted by 911sp »
      One question...
      How do you release the tension on the old belt before removing it.

      I just removed the roller from the tensioner. That seemed to do the trick.

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      03-12-2007 11:48 AM #59
      Excellent write-up. I just did mine this weekend following these instructions (with a bentley for reference).
      -I would say to definitely mark the belt, cam and crank with fingernail polish. I would've been one notch off if I hadn't.
      -The coolant from the water pump IS going to make a mess, prepare for it.
      -Before putting the tensioner back on, drink a couple beers and smoke a cigarette. You'll really be angry trying to get that thing aligned with the pully if you don't.
      -Might want to have an extra set of hands for putting the engine mount back on. So that one set can adjust the position of the engine while the other puts the two bolts in
      -definitely change to a metal impeller water pump. I just tapped my old plastic one on the ground and it shattered.
      -I used my stock tire iron as an extension to my ratchet to loosen those stubborn bolts.

      Cheers for an excellent DIY!!

    10. 03-14-2007 09:09 PM #60
      I just finished my TB job today. I couldn't have done it properly without this DIY. Thanks a million to the OP who took the time to post this DIY. You da man!
      A few things I learned while doing this job:
      This is not an easy job. Unless you do jobs like this all the time, you need plenty of time & LOTS of patience. A proper engine hoist would also make this job soooooooooo much easier, since you'd be able to completely remove the engine mount. It's a PITA to keep moving that thing around.
      A can of Seafoam spray makes removing & reinstalling the intercooler hoses much easier. Also, one of my screw-type hose clamps broke when re-installing it. I recommend buying new hose clamps. O'Reilly Auto Parts has very good hose clamps for a good price. They are a little wider than the OEM clamps, which gives you a little more clamp area.
      Removing & re-installing spring clamps from coolant hoses is a PITA if you don't have a pair of small vise grips, or a proper spring clamp compresser tool.
      A plastic bicycle tire lever is a good tool to help get the timing belt onto the crankshaft sprocket. I definitely couldn't have gotten it on by hand.
      If you're replacing the thermostat at the same time as the timing belt, you will almost certainly have to remove the generator, to access the thermostat housing mounting bolts. If I had this to do again, I would remove the top generator mounting bolt, and only loosen the lower mounting bolt. I would then try to swing the generator toward the radiator, to gain access to the thermostat housing bolts. I'm not sure if this works, but it's what I would try if I were doing this job over again.
      The OEM water pump impellers are as crappy as everybody says. My OEM water pump only had 88k miles on it, and 2 of the impellers shattered in my hand when I removed the water pump from the block. A pox on the house of the VW engineer that spec's the plastic impeller water pumps!
      That's all I can think of right now. If anyone is interested, I did a play-by-play of this job, and posted it on another forum. Here's a link: http://theoildrop.server101.co...&vc=1
      I did the job in my spare time, over the course of a couple of weeks.

    11. Member Tim_1.8T's Avatar
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      03-14-2007 11:08 PM #61
      Thanks, I'm glad it helped! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    12. Member bread1's Avatar
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      03-17-2007 02:28 PM #62
      Thanks for the post Tim I did it on about 5.5 hrs after work the other night. Other that the motor mount it wasnt to bad. Your post deff helped out a ton.
      Ryan

    13. Member Tcatt's Avatar
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      03-17-2007 10:43 PM #63
      I have been workin on my timing belt since 3:00 still don't have the belt off well just about to pull it off
      Quote Originally Posted by 10 Gauge View Post

      Put one dab in your peehole and squeeze for 5 seconds. This will keep you from reproducing.

    14. 03-18-2007 02:07 AM #64
      I just got done with the job and I must say I hope I don't have to do it again. I got a late start and didn't end till 1:00 am I had to also put in a thermostat but that was easy.
      I am really glad I had this or else I'd have to work on it for days. Thank you so much for the write up. The car is running fine now and all is well.

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      04-22-2007 02:40 PM #65
      Quote, originally posted by 1.BillyT »
      yeah, it's realy possible that your brother's jumped time. But to say they are consistantly off a tooth just isn't true.

      Actually it makes sense. When you release the tension it pulls the cam gear and crank gear toward each other.. Some more extreme than others. That could easily move it enough to be about 1 tooth off. Even in the Bentley it states that once tension is applied it can cause the TDC to be off. Obviously not ALL, but he didnt really say ALL anyway.
      BTW... great write up.. it definitely helped me through this. And that side engine mount is a serious pain in my ass. Always getting stuck and in the way.
      Quote Originally Posted by PLAYED TT View Post
      Like it was said before. You don't own a TT, you support it

    16. Member 337GTiAndrew's Avatar
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      04-26-2007 08:41 AM #66
      this is good stuff [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Breast reduction surgery is like slapping god accross the face

    17. 05-01-2007 11:41 AM #67
      Thanks for the great writeup!
      Did my timing belt and other related stuff over the weekend - definitely be prepared to be cursing
      What a PITA that engine mount bracket is. I also had to make an adjustment after pulling the pin, so I bought a 5m x 50 mm bolt from lowes (fully threaded) and a large fender washer to compress the tensioner. (I believe the VW tool is 5m x 55mm. )

      If you do the thermostat at the same time, here is a good little writeup I found:
      Quote, originally posted by 4ceFed4 »
      So here's how to get the thermostat out for any searchers who are curious like I was. This is what I did at least...
      1) get the SAI hose out of the way by removing the 2 10mm nuts holding it to the bracket on the intake manifold.
      2) remove the black braket itself by removing the 2 5mm allen bolts. Disconnect the n249 plug and whatever else is under there so you can get it out of the way.
      3) Slide the alternator out of the way by removing the 2 13mm bolts on the passenger side holding it to the bracket and disconnecting the electrical plug. This was a pain for me as the metal bushing were seized up good. I used a pry bar and hammered on it some using a hammer and a 2x4.
      4) remove the coolant hose off the plastic thermostat housing/flange.
      5) now you have easy access to the 2 5mm allen bolts holding the t-stat housing to the block. can also use 10mm socket
      6)Remove the housing, then the thermostat by rotating it 90 degrees CCW and pulling straight out.
      7) install is the reverse of removal, don't forget to put a liitle coolant on the new o-ring. I sanded down the metal alt bushing a little and rubbed some while lithium grease on there to ease reinstallation. Still a pain. Don't forget to reconnect the n249 like my buddy did...

    18. 05-09-2007 12:22 PM #68
      dang that looks super easy. how long does it take?
      so if it's as easy as that looks, then WHY THE CRAP DO PEOPLE WANT 400-600 BUCKS FOR LABOR?!?!?

    19. Member wreckedmyteg's Avatar
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      05-09-2007 01:06 PM #69
      Quote, originally posted by spoof3r »
      dang that looks super easy. how long does it take?
      so if it's as easy as that looks, then WHY THE CRAP DO PEOPLE WANT 400-600 BUCKS FOR LABOR?!?!?

      It took me about 10 hours, and I consider myself a good wrench turner.
      I'll take it in next time. It was a major PITA.

    20. Member Tim_1.8T's Avatar
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      05-09-2007 01:31 PM #70
      It's easy in the sense that the steps are straight forward but it is a lot of work. I know some people claim to be able to do them in about 2 hours after doing like 50 of them but those people are few and far between. It took me about ten hours to do it as well.

    21. 05-11-2007 01:11 PM #71
      SaucemanVR6: what adjustments did you make after pulling the pin?

    22. 05-11-2007 02:16 PM #72
      Quote, originally posted by anthony_g »
      SaucemanVR6: what adjustments did you make after pulling the pin?

      The belt was off a tooth when I doublechecked it the next day, (I worked on it over the course of a weekend) so I had to address that.

    23. 05-11-2007 02:21 PM #73
      I was searching for this post recently, and here she is! Great

    24. 05-11-2007 04:30 PM #74
      man, i think i might just take it in even after reading this. i've done the timing belt/water pump on my past vehicles including a jeep, MG, mazda and a v6 toyota, was NOT fun. this doesn't look any more fun...
      i have 65k miles on my 1.8t and need to do the belt soon. i'm assuming it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time right?

    25. 05-11-2007 04:36 PM #75
      Quote, originally posted by toywolf »
      i have 65k miles on my 1.8t and need to do the belt soon. i'm assuming it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time right?

      yes, since the belt drives the waterpump and the plastic impeller is garbage. make sure you get a waterpump with a metal impeller to replace it.

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