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    VWVortex


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    Thread: Ultimate Timing Belt DIY!

    1. 05-11-2007 01:11 PM #71
      SaucemanVR6: what adjustments did you make after pulling the pin?

    2. 05-11-2007 02:16 PM #72
      Quote, originally posted by anthony_g »
      SaucemanVR6: what adjustments did you make after pulling the pin?

      The belt was off a tooth when I doublechecked it the next day, (I worked on it over the course of a weekend) so I had to address that.


    3. 05-11-2007 02:21 PM #73
      I was searching for this post recently, and here she is! Great

    4. 05-11-2007 04:30 PM #74
      man, i think i might just take it in even after reading this. i've done the timing belt/water pump on my past vehicles including a jeep, MG, mazda and a v6 toyota, was NOT fun. this doesn't look any more fun...

      i have 65k miles on my 1.8t and need to do the belt soon. i'm assuming it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time right?


    5. 05-11-2007 04:36 PM #75
      Quote, originally posted by toywolf »
      i have 65k miles on my 1.8t and need to do the belt soon. i'm assuming it would be a good idea to replace the water pump at the same time right?

      yes, since the belt drives the waterpump and the plastic impeller is garbage. make sure you get a waterpump with a metal impeller to replace it.


    6. 05-14-2007 04:46 PM #76
      Where is the cheapest kit to do this job? Direct link to the kit?

      Nate


    7. 05-14-2007 04:58 PM #77
      I would like to add when putting the timing belt back on it's a bish and a half. I didn't like stretching the belt out so I went old school and put it on as I used too with my bike chain....made it easy, felt dumb after spending an hour trying to get it on every other way though.

    8. 05-14-2007 10:30 PM #78
      I tackled this myself. after about 1 K miles the outer edge of the T belt seems to be fraying a little. after talking to the belt manufacurer (Contitech, very nice folks) they suggest that one of the rollers may be tilted slighty causing the edge of the roller to wear the edge of the belt. i.e. if i didn't properly clean the block (not sure that I did, or needed to) before installing the new tensioner or tensioner pulley. Could be. cant tell without taking it all apart again (not fun). one thing: the upper T belt cover seems to come *really* close to that same outer edge of the belt. i wonder....

    9. 05-15-2007 12:58 AM #79
      thank you for making this DIY. A friend and I just did this a few days ago and it went well. Its crazy how fast the car comes up to temp now.

    10. 05-15-2007 04:05 PM #80
      How long does this take to do average? Doing it on saturday wish me luck.. wanna know how much time i should play on putting away.

    11. 05-15-2007 11:53 PM #81
      they're saying it takes like an average of 10 hours....

      i have no idea how those like 28 or so steps take 10 hours but i guess i'll be finding out as well here soon.............

      ?


    12. 05-16-2007 02:18 AM #82
      ECS Tuning has an "Ultimate" kit for $250. includes everything. if you price the stuff indivudually from ECS, NAPA or any other place i looked at it comes to well over $300. its recomended that you replaced all these parts at the same time.

      # OEM timing belt made by Continental
      # OE tensioner Roller made by Ruville in Germany
      # OEM tensioner assembly made by Ruville in Germany
      # OE Idler roller (comes on the tensioner assembly)
      # Hepu water pump with metal impeller
      # Conti-Tech accessory drive belt
      # Behr thermostat
      # ECS/OEM motor mount bolt kit


    13. 05-16-2007 08:34 AM #83
      I think it takes so long for most people because when they are doing it, it is their first time. They are only doing it to save money. And they are cross referencing everything they do with multiple DIY printouts and Vwvortex

      I did mine last fall in about 6 hours from start to finish with only this DIY.

      The hardest part by FAR is getting the belt back on. It was a total biff. I no isht ended up using a shoe horn to help lever the belt onto the cam gear.

      OH... and if don't forget to tighten the hose clamps on your pancake pipe


    14. 05-16-2007 01:36 PM #84
      Oh man this is prob going to take me like 15 hours haha

      naTe


    15. 05-17-2007 11:10 AM #85
      i have no idea how they say this is jsut as hard as doing a clutch. the clutch was hard and that took forever but the DIY i followed had like 100 steps give or take a few i can't remember.

      this looks so simple....i must be in for a bad surprise lol


    16. 05-18-2007 11:12 AM #86
      IMO, the hardest part is removing, working around, and reinstalling the pass side engine mount bracket.

    17. 05-18-2007 11:13 AM #87
      so, any tricks for helping with that would be much appreciated (as I have to do this job again cause I think my belt is rubbing or something).

    18. 05-18-2007 03:06 PM #88
      2 minor pointers:
      Re: A T-belt tooth being off:
      Recently did the T-belt with a friend (much easier with 2 pple) and after the MIL came on - code says relationship between cam and crank is off. The car (2K Beetle) feels more responsive at lower RPM than before and has been this way for about 4K km. Can be a tooth forward, though marks were all aligned. No plans changing it for now.
      Re: water pump with plastic impeller - just pulled one out after 270+K km on a 2.0. Sure enough, a piece broke off upon touch - it was only 1 and smaller than the pieces that came off on the 1.8T water pump. Seems like the coolant cooks the brittle plastic, more so on the turbo.

    19. 06-12-2007 05:29 PM #89
      Nice DIY for the 1.8T timing belt, it is very good. I also consulted the Bentley manual and Haynes. I actually thought the Haynes book did a better job explaining than the Bentley which was a suprise. Here's a few notes \ tips from my experience:

      - Two people makes this easier, but probbably not faster

      - Taking the lower bolt off the intercooler makes getting the pancake off much easier, also replace the clamps if they are rusted.

      - Be SURE to seat the hex head properly on each of the 4 crankshaft pulley bolts, my friend stripped mine and we tried everything to get the bolt out, jb weld, larger sized hex, what ended up working was a BOLT-OUT from Irwin (sold at Home Depot) and a manual impact driver to seat it first, then a socket wrench with a cheater (even though the head is round). The Craftsman bolt remover has thick walls that prevent you from getting on the bolt because of the clearance to the sides of the pulley.

      - PB blaster, lighly around the crankshaft bolt, helped get the pulley off since the crankshaft collar just under the bolt was rusted pretty bad (I lost my plastic belly sheild.

      - Replace your crankshaft pulley bolts, apparenly VW / Audi changed to a triple square (12-point) design to maximize bolt head surface area to grip, since these bolts are frequently stripped. It's worth the $2-3 to do this.

      - Supporting the engine from the bottom sounds nervewracking so I posted to craigslist in the LA area to borrow an engine hoist for cheap, and I got a response and was able to borrow it ffor a weekend. I used a shackle on the engine block to the chain on the hoist, worked perfect.

      - The belt was a pain to get on so I loosened the water pump bolts to get the belt seated which relaxed the tension alittle.

      - Almost forgot to tighten the bolt from the side engine mount back into the block- since it stayed in the mount, inside the body and never came out of the body it was easy to forget to tighten the bolt.

      Modified by tnova at 2:31 PM 6-12-2007


      Modified by tnova at 2:34 PM 6-12-2007


    20. 06-24-2007 01:57 AM #90
      oh my gosh, that was the hardest thing i think i have done. Ok so it wasnt that hard but it's taken me at least 10 hours total, but im guessing alot more since i've been working on it since yesterday and i've just now completed it at 11:30pm

      for those debaiting on taking it in, do it yourself.... it feels really good once you've done it on your own.... then again if you have the money take it in MAJOR PITA!!!!


    21. 06-24-2007 06:24 AM #91
      It isn't that hard you can do it in a few ours, but there is a risk of alot of damage...
      It is easy to get the belt on if you put on the belt first, tensioner pulley mounting at the end.

    22. 06-29-2007 08:46 PM #92
      how long might this take roughly? I JUST did my a/c compressor a week ago, and now my water pump just went out.. would it be easier than an A/c job? possibly take less time? Thanks

    23. 07-09-2007 10:09 AM #93
      Just wanted to post my thanks for your DIY. I found it very helpful when doing the belt on our 1.8T this weekend. FWIW, it took me 5 hours start to finish. That included doing the thermostat which was not in your writeup.

      A couple things to add (sorry if these were covered)... the tming belt tensioner is easy to do, except the pulley (the tensioner pulley, not the tiny idler on the tensioner itself) is in the way. I used a long piece of piano wire to wire it up in the "tensioned, but not too tensioned" position. This gets it out of your way, but doesn't put so much tension on the timing belt that it's hard to install the tensioner.

      I would not do this job without also replacing the thermostat. If you're already draining the coolant, why not? It's cheap insurance, and it's easy to do. You need a large prybar to get the alternator off.

      also, you mention that you "need a gap" between the harmonic damper pulley and the timing cover. What did you do that led you to not have a gap there the first time around? My car didn't have much of a gap before I disassembled it, but I didn't see any way to install the timing covers / pulley any different than how it came off - so I'm curious.

      thanks again for the writeup.

      John V


    24. 07-09-2007 10:59 AM #94
      Quote, originally posted by John V »
      That included doing the thermostat which was not in your writeup.

      did you happen to find a write up for the thermostat?


    25. 07-09-2007 01:10 PM #95
      No, but it is so painfully easy that it doesn't really need one.

      1) Remove accessory belt tensioner (described in the timing belt DIY)
      2) Remove both alternator bolts (13mm hex head)
      3) Move alternator towards radiator (don't need to pull it out)
      4) Unbolt thermostat housing (2 x 10mm hex head bolts)
      5) Remove thermostat
      6) Install thermostat
      7) Lube new o-ring with coolant, install o-ring
      8) Install thermostat housing
      10) Install alternator
      11) Install accessory belt tensioner (don't forget the belt)
      12) Drink beer


    26. 07-10-2007 10:47 AM #96
      Quote, originally posted by John V »
      No, but it is so painfully easy that it doesn't really need one.

      1) Remove accessory belt tensioner (described in the timing belt DIY)
      2) Remove both alternator bolts (13mm hex head)
      3) Move alternator towards radiator (don't need to pull it out)
      4) Unbolt thermostat housing (2 x 10mm hex head bolts)
      5) Remove thermostat
      6) Install thermostat
      7) Lube new o-ring with coolant, install o-ring
      8) Install thermostat housing
      10) Install alternator
      11) Install accessory belt tensioner (don't forget the belt)
      12) Drink beer

      ok thanks John V...one more ?

      at what point during these steps should i change the thermostat? does it matter?

      i imagine towards the end while my engine is still raised with the jack but i just want to make sure....

      im starting this DIY tonight


    27. 07-10-2007 12:29 PM #97
      Doesn't matter, I did it as one of the last steps. I would want the engine bolted back down becuase you might have to apply force to remove the alternator.

    28. Member Fixxxer's Avatar
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      07-10-2007 09:11 PM #98
      Although it's good to know that your thermostat is new, it's probably one of the most reliable parts on a VW. I've worked as a VW parts tech and now as a VW mechanical tech and I have never sold nor installed a thermostat in a VW. They never break, they never seem to wear out and there are still thermostats sitting on the shelf at work collecting dust from the days I ordered the damn things. They just don't quit.

    29. 07-11-2007 07:28 AM #99
      Now you've done it, everyone's thermostat is going to fail.

      It came with my timing belt kit, and the coolant was already drained, so I couldn't resist replacing it.


    30. Member Fixxxer's Avatar
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      07-11-2007 04:21 PM #100
      If your thermostat fails, come see me. I'll put one in just to see what's involved!

    31. 07-16-2007 10:50 PM #101
      Can someone tell me how to remove the timing belt idler pulley? is there a screw im not seeing or do i just pull it out? im having trouble with this one




      Modified by arch_ed0421 at 7:53 PM 7-16-2007


    32. Member 18T_BT's Avatar
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      07-16-2007 10:54 PM #102
      bring the motor down a bit if needed and get an allen in there (IIRC 8mm) and and take it off

    33. Member Fixxxer's Avatar
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      07-17-2007 10:15 PM #103
      Yeah, that big-@ss allen bolt you see there is what's holding it on. While you have it all apart, check your tensioner to see if it needs replacement. If you can push down on the little piston that tensions the roller, you NEED to replace it. There should be enough tension on that piston that you can't push it down by hand.

      When shipped to the dealer, they come already compressed and held in place with a pin. Just install all the gear, set the timing and pull the pin.


    34. 07-18-2007 12:07 AM #104
      Quote, originally posted by 18T_BT »
      bring the motor down a bit if needed and get an allen in there (IIRC 8mm) and and take it off

      thanks...i didnt notice that

      im in the process of putting everything back together now and i forgot how the tensioner and idler pulley were placed in there?

      was it something like this?...

      Old Tensioner/Idler Pulley


      Modified by arch_ed0421 at 9:10 PM 7-17-2007


      Modified by arch_ed0421 at 9:12 PM 7-17-2007


    35. Member 18T_BT's Avatar
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      07-18-2007 05:33 PM #105
      this is how it should look:


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