As I walked around the vendor area of H2O, I found at Induktion Motorsports' tent the Snow Performance Boost Cooler kit. This was something I had in mind for my girlfriend's GLI for some time because the car is pretty much maxed out on the stock Ko3S. With future plans of going big turbo, I figured this would prove to be a "healthy" mod for the car.
I had a long discussion with Scott Williams from USRT. Very cool guy, knows what he's talking about...definitely will be getting more of my business. So we talked and I promised him a big thread on here to promote this kit. So, here it is:
We opted for the Stage II MAP-based kit. Scott sells a Stage I kit, but it is better off for those with standalone systems to control the spray. With the Stage II, the spray is variable, and instead of getting a MAF-based kit that reads the MAF voltage, I decided to make use of the Golden Eagle vac manifold we already have on the car and use the MAP controller. We also bought a gallon of Snow Performance's "Boost Juice," which is their own water/methanol mixture, and quoting Scott, "It's 49% methanol, 50% water, and 1% if I told ya I'd have to kill ya." Lastly, an 8oz bottle of Nitro Booster, which is just nitro methane, was included in our purchase. It says +50hp on the bottle, but I'm sure that's engine dependent.
Mod list of the car:
(27psi Spikes, 15psi @ Redline)
GHL 3” Tb
NGK BKR7E Plugs
ECS Ultimate Dog Bone Mount
Golden Eagle Vacuum Manifold
Relocated Forge DV
Bosch 4-bar FPR
Dual Stage MBC
N249 and Secondary Air Injection Deleted
Here's what is all included, minus the fluids:
Reservoir, pump, controller, nozzles, nylon tubing, and hell even wire loom, zip ties, and electrical connectors are all in the kit. There's also a NPT Tap for mounting the nozzle in a hardpipe.
My concern for where to store the fluid began when I looked around and couldn't really find a spot for the extra reservoir. Her engine bay is cluttered with this and that and where there's room, it's either a) not convenient or b) too hot for plastic. So I figured, hell I'll just use the stock reservoir. It has a built in low level sensor which would make it easier to keep the fluid filled.
We drilled a hole at the very bottom of the reservoir, and thanks to VW for having a hole cutout directly below. Put in the threaded piece shown and gorilla glued it for lack of any other goop. Seals perfectly, no leaks!
My next step was figuring out how to mount the pump. It has a bracket with rubber vibration isolators, so I figured it's best to make use of those. Since we aren't running the secondary air injection, I hacked up the bracket for the SAI pump and welded on some flat sheetmetal.
This way, the pump is mounted "correctly" using the bracket it came with, and it's also lower than the reservoir which is a must if you want it to actually pump anything. There was also lots of room infront of the block, the only thing to watch for is the oil filter.
Next I just screwed in the 90 degree fittings to the pump. All the fittings for the nylon hose in this kit are the quick disconnect type like on paintball guns. Just pull back and the hose will slide out.
Here's a below and above shot of the pump mounted using the SAI pump bracket:
Next thing to mount was the MAP controller. This was the most convenient, trouble-free spot to mount it. Just used 3M molding tape.
There's a vacuum port at the bottom, which runs to a boost/vac source, such as the Golden Eagle vac mani we're using. The harness for the power, ground, and pump wires clips in the bottom. The two dials for boost are on top, which shows the convenience. One dial reads Start PSI and the other is Full PSI. You set the PSI you want the pump to BEGIN spraying, and full is your max boost. The controller than makes a graph and signals the pump to spray according to your boost level. At full boost, it sprays at 100%.
Finally, the nozzle. This ended up being my bigget PITA b/c I ended up drilling the tap to big, so the nozzle was wobably. I got an 1/8" cap from work, cut off the end, and welded it to the hole I drilled. I retap died the nozzle to screw in perfectly, and put on some thread sealer.
You have to make sure the spray is perpendicular to the airflow.
For a lil extra , I decided to make use of the green LED in the kit. It's use is to come on when the controller signals the pump to spray. One wire to ground, the other to the controller-pump wire. Well maybe I mixed the wires b/c it hasn't worked for me yet, but here's where I put it.
So now it's all wired up. The instruction manual with the kit is self-explanatory on the wiring and fluid lines and where what goes. What will take you the longest is if you want to make it a clean install. But that's anything right?
So with the system installed and working, it's time to head out and make the performance difference. We went out with the harness to the controller unplugged so we could get a baseline run or two in. It was about 60 degrees out during testing.
We started at 0 degrees advance with Lemmiwinks, and well, we couldn't go higher. A second run proved this so we left it at that. Here's the graph:
Pull was up at around 6 so we figured, can't really go higher now.
So pulled into a gas station, plugged the controller harness back in, and off we went. It took us 5 or 6 runs til we got it where we needed to be. What we ended up with was 6.75 degrees of advance!! Here's the final graph:
Notice the difference in the IATs, and also the timing pull is around 3. I'm very comfortable with that, as it gives me some play should it get warmer out.
And a graph logging boost, a/f, and MAF signal.
Overall, the car is pulling very nice. The power delivery is super smooth. All the way to redline it just hauls. I have yet to see what the benefits are compared to a Civic-equipped friend of mine as we are very close matches.
So this testing confirms the "running race gas programming on pump gas" statement I've read before. I'm excited to put in some 100 or 112 and see what I can bump the timing to now.
We did not get a chance to test the Nitro Booster that same night as I was unsure of what blocks to log and also did not want to waste the entire bottle on what was in the tank. Rest assured tho that when I do get some results from it, they'll be posted here for easy access.
The only other thing I plan on doing is getting a small micron filter and seeing how regular old washer fluid works. The screens on the nozzles with the kit are 100 micron, so if the dye from washer fluid can get through 25 or 50, it shouldn't be a problem. I don't want to spray $12.50 washer fluid onto the windshield. Also, I decided that with this extra usage of the reservoir, it's time to upgrade to the Euro spec one, which is 5.3L instead of 3L. The part number for this is 1J0-955-453 L and the plug you'll need is 2D0-955-465 B. Ordered it today, but I don't think I need to give ya guys a write-up on installing that.
If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask. Hope this write-up eases some of your fears of doing this if you are/were considering it. Definitely something to have no matter what turbo you're running. The kit is COMPLETE, and there's even a few options for upgrades, such as a solenoid in case you either mount the nozzle below the tank to keep from gravity feeding or if you mount the nozzle after the throttle body and it will keep from siphoning at idle (vacuum). Also there is a control switch that, if for some reason the pump stops spraying when you need it to, it will send a signal to lower your boost or timing, depending on what you can have it do. It's a failsafe thing for those "just in case's."
Modified by SAVwKO at 11:25 PM 10-11-2006