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    VWVortex


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    Thread: A/C Delete on a Cabriolet - Remove AC compressor

    1. 04-05-2010 08:08 PM #26
      Hey nice write up, I'm trying to do the same thing, just have a few q's. I'm pretty much a noob to mk1s so hopefully this isn't completely amateur on my part. It looks like the fan belt that used to drive the compressor is the one you're using to drive the alternator and you just ditched the one that was on the car to drive the alternator. Am I seeing that correct?
      My second question is how do I decrease the tension on the A/C belt to take it off? It looks like there used to be one of those geared bolts like is used to tension the alternator belt down on the bracket for the compressor, but that bolt is no longer there? How do I remove the tension on that belt?


      Modified by felixthecat at 8:28 PM 4-5-2010

    2. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      04-05-2010 08:55 PM #27
      Yes he got rid of the alt belt.
      The tension on the a/c is controlled by the 2 bolts next to the radiator and the rear 2 mounting bolts that are 6mm Allens. Loosen all of them and there is no issue getting the belt off.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
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      Another Useless Ground Thread
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      HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FAQ's ABOVE..PAGE 3 Thread 75?

    3. 04-05-2010 10:28 PM #28
      Actually, if you have new belts from Autozone they don't fit right. The only way to get the A/C compressor belt on or off is to zip off the water pump pulley bolts with an impact wrench, pop off the pulley (or put it on depending on what your doing), and then there is enough slack to remove the belt from the compressor...
      Don't know why my belt is like that, but it is... Very annoying!!! That's is why I'm ditching the compressor tomorrow... Besides the obvious [performance] reasons.
      On a side note, have any of you who actually did this mod noticed any premature water pump/alternator failure? Just curious.
      Also, how do you determine if your belts have the right tension? Won't unequal tension between the two belts cause premature water pump failure? Sorry, but I've gone through 4 water pumps. Maybe my new german made one will last a little longer than the Duralast s***.


      Modified by invintive at 8:33 PM 4-5-2010

    4. 04-05-2010 11:50 PM #29
      Anyways, this is a great mod! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      I just finished mine in like 30 minutes including a trip to the hardware store... Super easy to do, and gonna be much easier if I ever need to change my water pump.
      Thanks a BUNCH!!! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    5. 04-08-2010 08:34 PM #30
      Snapped some pics...


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      08-21-2010 09:35 PM #31
      I did this today, took about three hours. Why so long, the Allen bolt under the timing chain cover was stripped out. Heh, the head of the bolt and not the threads. Yup, with a little help from heat and vise grips it was off soon enough.

      I do have an issue with the 8x50mm bolts that I will chase down tomorrow. I got the wrong thread type, although if I would of known while on my shopping trip.

      The drive was a pleasure and worth the time and effort. And I will say a cheap performance boost...

    7. Member briano1234's Avatar
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      08-21-2010 11:08 PM #32
      Ya know I have been looking at this mod for a while and I have to ask this.

      The alignment of the Alt pulley is off, and I think that you can get it closer to running true with a couple of additional washers.

      The passenger side of the alternator mount is actually a bushing that Centers the alternator to the mount. As you tighten the bolt this moves that bushing into the alternator and forces the alternator to the rear of the mount.

      Now this bushing causes the Alternator to Square itself to the frame so that is can run true but it isn't a hard connection it moves, so why not allow the alternator to not move back?

      my thunking has come up with pushing that bushing all the way flush to the inside of the mount.

      On the back side (drivers side) of the Alternator mount Glue about 2 good washers in place. May use more depends on the amount of gap you get. What will happen is that when you place the alternator in position and stab the bolt, the alternator can't move to the back of the bracket by the pressing of that bushing running home. The Alternator will still center, but can't move back. Thereby effectively moving the pulley more to the passenger side.
      Grounds, Grounds, Grounds Replace them things.
      Divorces, Great Coffee, and Electrics, all start with GOOD Grounds.

      Another Useless Ground Thread
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      HAVE YOU CHECKED THE FAQ's ABOVE..PAGE 3 Thread 75?

    8. 09-05-2010 06:01 PM #33
      Thanks a lot for this!! I've been thinking of ways to do this but just couldn't think of how. I just started working on this about an hour ago and everything was going good till a piece on the alternator broke (Where the adjustment screw screws into) So i'm going to try and get a new alternator and slap a washer behind the pulley and see how it all works out!

    9. Junior Member Donka's Avatar
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      09-05-2010 06:12 PM #34
      I have done this as well, and all is good. So far at speeds of 80+ and no signs of any issues at all with the belt.
      Nothing like having 1800 cubic. ft. of space going down the highway!

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      09-06-2010 05:11 PM #35
      I think I'm going to do this tomorrow since my compressor is shot anyway. Then throw her back on next year maybe when I get a compressor.

    11. 09-07-2010 04:15 PM #36
      Quote Originally Posted by foogie View Post
      Thanks a lot for this!! I've been thinking of ways to do this but just couldn't think of how. I just started working on this about an hour ago and everything was going good till a piece on the alternator broke (Where the adjustment screw screws into) So i'm going to try and get a new alternator and slap a washer behind the pulley and see how it all works out!
      Well i just rigged up my alternator to get it to work and got the washer on and got everything put back together and it's good to go! Went for a nice drive and didn't have a problem and you can really tell the difference in the power throughout all the ranges! Thanks!

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      09-16-2010 03:58 PM #37
      so all the wires running to the compressor can be ripped out as well ?

    13. Junior Member Donka's Avatar
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      09-16-2010 04:10 PM #38
      I just unplugged it. Placed a cable tie to secure the connector. Removed all the hoses. Just to the firewall.
      Nothing like having 1800 cubic. ft. of space going down the highway!

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      09-16-2010 04:42 PM #39
      what do those hoses connect to behind the firewall?

    15. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      09-16-2010 04:44 PM #40
      They connect to the a/c coils under the dashboard. You -might- be able to disconnect the hoses from under the passenger side foot area.

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      09-16-2010 05:11 PM #41
      prolly not even worth it you think? my main concern is just getting the condenser compressor and hoes out of there.

    17. Member CajunSpike's Avatar
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      09-16-2010 05:33 PM #42
      If you totally remove them, then you have two holes in the firewall that have to be filled/covered...soo...

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      09-23-2010 11:57 AM #43
      I did this a few days ago and everything went great! So easy to do.

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      10-21-2010 08:08 AM #44
      Thank you for the pictures and post for removing the AC compressor. Now what do I do with the lines that I un screwed from the compressor. I see one goes to the radiator. If i disconnect that, do I have to plug the radiator hole? And what do I plug it with. The second one goes through the firewall. What on earth do I do with that. Where does it get unscrewed. Do I have to remove the dash??? Is that it after those 2 are removed.

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      10-21-2010 04:39 PM #45
      I took the large bracket off holding the compressor. What bracket did you put back in place to mount the altenator on. Do I need a special bracket for that?

      thank you

      Paul

    21. Member Moljinar's Avatar
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      10-21-2010 06:58 PM #46
      Read the start of the thread and it explains it all.

    22. Member MyVWeatsYourHonda's Avatar
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      10-21-2010 07:55 PM #47
      what iv been searching for. thank god. where did u get the big washer at?

    23. Member MyVWeatsYourHonda's Avatar
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      10-21-2010 09:30 PM #48
      does the original belt work also?

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      10-22-2010 06:00 PM #49
      Quote Originally Posted by MyVWeatsYourHonda View Post
      does the original belt work also?
      Yes the original belt will work, no need to buy one unless of course it actually needs one. You will lose a belt in the process


      As far as the hardware needed, I got all I needed at lowes. Make sure to match up the threading on the replacement bolts. Parts were less than $4...

    25. Member MyVWeatsYourHonda's Avatar
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      10-22-2010 09:53 PM #50
      about how thick is the washer

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