Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast
    Results 1 to 35 of 172

    Thread: LED Project #2 DIY - MKIV Instrument Cluster Upgrade-FINALLY!!

    1. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,123
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      10-27-2006 12:10 AM #1
      LED Project #2 - MKIV VW Cluster Upgrade

      DIY IS NOW COMPLETE - DIY AWAY!!!!

      After many months of R&D and buying different parts, I believe I can call LED Project #2 finished. I have entailed all the details below, and if there are any questions please feel free to PM me (FaelinGL) or Wes (SPKNGRMN) or email me at contact@fallastarmedia.com.

      Before you do, *please* read everything in this document, as your question may have been previously answered. I would like to thank SPKNGRMN, Rob'sVR6, staggered MK4, VgRt6, and everyone who contributed to this project.

      Functionality added
      This DIY will install LEDs that dynamically track engine speed and vehicle speed. When completed, the install basically looks stock. Click on the pictures/links below to check out the movies(MPEG format). You can download the MPEG codec HERE if you don't have it installed.

      LED Project #2 - Shift Light Enabled
      LED Project #2 - Shift Light Disabled

      COLOR SELECTOR
      By popular demand, people want to know what their cluster will look like before they choose to do this. If you do, please click on the COLOR SELECTOR and figure it out.

      Preface
      If you are using the DIY method, you really do need some experience with soldering, wiring, and understanding circuit diagrams. A couple of legalities:

      1)You WILL void your warranty, at least for the instrument cluster.
      2)You WILL be taking parts of your car apart, prying them open, and putting them back.
      3)The circuit diagram is Patent Pending. I give you permission to make your own circuit, but please do not attempt to sell or otherwise promote it. I'm really not a fan of long, drawn out legal battles

      Theory
      Rather then fill up this document, if you're going to do this I highly recommend you read THIS PAGE. It will give you some valuable insight as to what exactly you're trying to accomplish.

      All right, let's get started. Please be careful. Do this procedure at your own risk, I can't be held responsible if I have made a mistake in the steps. There are MANY steps, so be sure you understand what you are doing instead of following the procedure blindly.

      Needed Parts
      Kit Method
      -Super Glue (not Gel! I recommend "Loctite" Precision Max Superglue)
      -Electrician's tape
      -2 AA Batteries (optional)
      -Thin wire (optional)
      -All remaining parts are included in the kit

      DIY Method
      -Super Glue (not Gel! I recommend "Loctite" Precision Max Superglue
      -Electrician's tape
      -Thin Wire for jumpers/splices - 30 gauge, single strand, Kynar insulated wire works best
      -Applicable parts to build the circuit (see the diagram below)
      -2.5mm by 7mm rectangular LEDs of your color choice (you can get these from http://www.digikey.com)

      Needed Tools
      Kit Method
      -10 mm socket
      -ratchet
      -ratchet extension
      -small blade screwdriver
      -medium blade screwdriver
      -Torx-20 screwdriver
      -Torx-10 screwdriver
      -Voltmeter (optional)
      -Small round file (a Dremel tool works MUCH better)
      -Small pliers
      -Air source (for cleaning the dust out, a computer dust can works too)

      DIY Method
      -10 mm socket
      -ratchet
      -ratchet extension
      -small blade screwdriver
      -medium blade screwdriver
      -Torx-20 screwdriver
      -Torx-10 screwdriver
      -Voltmeter (optional)
      -Small round file (a Dremel tool works MUCH better)
      -Small pliers
      -Air source (for cleaning the dust out, a computer dust can works too)
      -Soldering Iron
      -Solder Remover
      -Solder
      -Applicable tools to build the circuit
      -Lots of Time
      -Black Spray Paint
      -Blue Painter's tape
      -Lacquer Thinner
      -Small side cutters

      Initial conditions - DIY Method only
      -You will need a LOT of time to invest for testing and wiring with the DIY method, whereas the Kit method requires only about 3 hours to do the installation.
      -You can complete wiring up and testing the circuit board prior to pulling out the instrument cluster.
      -You can reinstall the instrument cluster with the gauge faces removed so you can complete installing the LEDs.

      The Circuit Board
      For the DIY Method, this is the hardest part. You will need to figure out how to wire up the circuit to a breadboard. I really can't explain how to solder, how to read circuit diagrams, or how to understand a manufacturer Datasheet. So if you do not know how to do that then you may want to opt for the Kit method. That being said, if you still want to proceed you may go through many, many circuit changes before the circuit works. As an example, here is a picture of the my original DIY board compared to the Kit Board.

      Front

      Back

      What I have below is a simplified circuit diagram for one side of the circuit (ie, the tachometer). You will need to wire two of these together to power both the Tachometer and Speedometer LEDs. Use this in conjunction with the manufacturer data sheets listed below to design your circuit. Two words of advice - Work Small. Do one piece of the circuit at a time. Test it, make sure it's working, then solder it to the breadboard. It took me the better part of a week to get the circuit to do what I want reliably.


      Frequency to Voltage Converter - LM2907 Datasheet
      LED Display Driver - LM3914 Datasheet

      For the circuit diagram, the pots labeled R1 through R5 control the circuit in the following manner:
      R1 - Controls the slope of the Voltage Response
      R2 - Controls the initial DC offset of the Voltage Response
      R3 through R5 - Fine tune the circuit response per the LM3914 Datasheet, page 16/17.

      If you pull the RPM signal from the ECU, you will need to use the 561 pF capacitor. If you get it from the blue connector in the cluster, use the .01 uF capacitor.

      Don't get frustrated!! I'll do my best to help you fix your circuit, but I can't really see your breadboard so I can only offer my own experience. Once you are satisfied with your circuit, continue on to perform the installation.

      Disconnecting the Battery
      Note:You may need the radio code to reset your radio after disconnecting the battery (OEM Radios only)

      1.Pull the hood release latch to unlock the hood.

      2.Raise the hood by pulling out on the locking tab and lifting the hood.

      3.Remove the battery cover by lifting up on the front and pulling it out.

      4.Remove the battery clamp for the red, positive terminal cable by loosening the nut with a 10 mm socket.

      Removing Interior Parts
      5.Open the interior fuse cover with a medium blade screwdriver.

      6.Remove the side dash cover by pulling it out and away.

      7.Remove all three Torx-20 screws located under the dash. You can see the middle one here.

      8.Remove the lower kicker panel by pulling out on the left side. Then, pull out and up on the right side.

      9.Remove the flat plastic piece under the dash by pulling the front out and down.

      10.Remove the two Philips head screws under the steering wheel on the lower steering column cover.

      11.Remove the upper steering column cover by lifting it straight up. Pull directly out on the plastic trim connector to remove it.

      12.Remove the two instrument cluster screws with a Torx-20 screwdriver.

      13.Work the cluster out of its place by tilting it back and forth.

      14.Lift up on the pink tab of the blue connector. You can use a screwdriver to help, but be careful not to snap the plastic lever.

      15.Remove the blue connector by sliding it out of the cluster.

      16.Repeat step 14 and 15 for the green connector.

      17.Slide the instrument cluster out of the dash and set it to the side.

      Modified by FaelinGL at 11:17 PM 10-26-2006


      Modified by FaelinGL at 6:46 PM 11-10-2006


      Modified by FaelinGL at 7:54 AM 11-11-2006

      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    2. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,123
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      10-27-2006 12:11 AM #2
      Cluster Disassembly
      18.Lay the cluster on a soft material and remove the two Torx-10 screws on each side of the cluster.

      19.Seperate the halves of the cluster by lifting up on the locking tabs on the top and bottom and pressing the halves apart.

      20.Remove the gauge needles by turning them clockwise until resistance is felt. Once resistance is felt, continue to turn the needle and pull out on it at the same time.

      21.Remove the tachometer gauge face by freeing the tab in the upper right hand side of the face, and turing the gauge face 45 degrees counterclockwise. Then lift the gauge face straight up.

      22.Remove the speedometer gauge face by freeing the tab in the upper left hand side of the face. Turn the gauge face clockwise 45 degrees, and lift the gauge face straight up.

      LED Installation
      Note: Steps 23 through 33 are ONLY for the DIY method. Steps 34 and 35 are ONLY for the Kit method.

      23.Place your rectangular LEDs on top of a strip of blue painter's tape with the sticky side up.

      24.Using a straw or other tubular plastic, cut a length enough to cover the leads of the LED so they do not get painted.

      25.Spray black paint on each side of the LEDs. I usually give it two coats to guarantee the LEDs get coated.

      26.Lightly wet a paper towel with lacquer thinner. Remove the LEDs from the painter's tape, and lightly brush the top of each LED across the paper towel. This will remove any bled through spray paint.

      27.Tape your tachometer gauge face to your working surface with some electrician's tape. Doing one LED at a time, place an LED over a segment of the gauge face, with the LONG LEG on the outside. Make sure you don't cover any of the numbers.

      28.Glue the LED to the gauge face, with just a TINY bit of glue, but enough to hold it in place.

      29.Once the glue has dried on a particular LED, clip the leads so you have enough meat to solder wires to, but not too much.

      30.With around 2' of thin wire, strip off about 10 inches of the insulation on one end. Solder the bare wire to the outside lead of each LED. Make sure you label this wire as the outside wire.

      31.Cut 30 pieces of thin wire, each approx 4' long. Strip one end, and solder the bare wire to the inner lead of each LED. Since you only have 30 power supplies from the circuit, you will need to connect LEDs 30-34 together with one wire. It would be helpful to label the wires as you solder them.

      32.Route 20 of the wires and the outer wire through the LEDs on the right, and the other 10 wires to the left. When you are done, your gauge face should look like this.

      33.Repeat steps 23 to 32 for the speedometer gauge face. It should look like this when you are done.

      34.For the kit method, center the tachometer LED ring over the gauge face so the LEDs most completely cover the segments. Then glue it to the gauge face.

      35.Repeat step 34 for the speedometer gauge face.

      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    3. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,123
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      10-27-2006 12:11 AM #3
      36.Using your file or Dremel tool, grind down the white plastic on the bottom right corner of the cluster.

      37.Gently mate the top and bottom halves of the cluster, but do NOT lock the tabs together.

      38.With a black marker, draw a small notch in each of the gaps where you expect the wires to run through.

      39.Remove the bottom half of the cluster, and set it aside. Then grind down the notches you drew in the black plastic of the top cover.

      Instrument Cluster Reassembly
      40.Set the RPM Gauge face on top of the cluster. Make sure the wires slide between the slots in the white plastic (red arrows). Then lock the tab of the gauge face to the upper corner of the plastic ring (green arrow).

      41.Using a small screwdriver, press the inner edge of the gauge face under the notches in the center plastic shaft.

      42.Set the Speedometer Gauge face on top of the cluster. Make sure the wires slide between the slots in the white plastic (red arrows). Then lock the tab of the gauge face to the upper corner of the plastic ring (green arrow).

      43.Using a small screwdriver, press the inner edge of the gauge face under the notches in the center plastic shaft.

      44.To reinstall the needles, use the following steps:
      a.Press the needle center onto the metal shaft.

      b.Turn the needle counterclockwise. Notice how it is past the lowest mark on the face.

      c.Turn the needle clockwise until resistance is felt. Then continue turning gently to the lowest indicated mark.

      d.Lastly, turn the needle counterclockwise until resistance is felt. Then continue turning gently to the lowest indicated mark.

      e.Make sure that the needle rests at the lowest indicated mark.

      45.Repeat step 9 for the other needles.

      46.Run the pair of center wires (red arrows) through the locking tabs (green arrow) in the top half of the cluster.

      47.Continue working the wires through until you can mate the top and bottom halves of the cluster. Make sure the wires are in their slots in the white plastic.

      48.When all the wires are in their appropriate places, press the halves together to lock the cluster tabs.

      49.Reinstall the two Torx-10 screws into each side of the cluster.

      Prep for Cluster Installation
      Note: Locating the proper wires to splice into is EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. You may cause severe damage to your cluster, ECU, or vehicle if you tap into the incorrect wire. I highly recommend you have the appropriate wiring diagram for your vehicle prior to proceeding. I have listed the wires below through the research I have done, but yours may be different based on year and model.

      50.Unwrap the black tape surrounding the blue connector for the cluster.

      51.Locate the SOLID BROWN wire (pin 24). There may be more then 1. Label this wire as the Ground.

      52.Locate the BLUE WIRE with a WHITE STRIPE (pin 3). Label this wire as the Speed wire.

      53.Locate the BLACK WIRE with a PURPLE STRIPE (pin 1). Label this wire as the Power wire.

      54.Locate the tach wire by performing steps 4 through 5.n. of the RPM Wire Tap DIY. Depending on the year of your car, the tach wire may be in the blue connector or you may have to grab it at the ECU.

      55.If you decide to install a switch, choose an appropriate location and install the switch along with whatever wiring you attach to the switch.

      56.Splice the appropriate wires together from your circuit board and switch to the wires you have labeled in the cluster.

      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    4. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,123
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      10-27-2006 12:12 AM #4
      Cluster Reinstallation
      57.Set the cluster on top of the dash, and run the wires from the cluster down through the firewall.

      58.They should hang down below the dash.

      59.Place the cluster into the dash, gently tugging the wires from under the dash so they remain straight. Then install the green connector into the cluster. Push it fully into the cluster (red arrow), and then lower the pink locking tab (green arrow).

      60.Install the blue connector into the cluster. Push it fully into the cluster (red arrow), and then lower the pink locking tab (green arrow).

      Note: You may want to put off screwing the cluster in place and installing all of the trim pieces until you are satisfied that the circuit board works and that the LEDs illuminate properly. Otherwise, you may have to pull the whole thing apart again.

      61.When you are satisfied that the cluster is installed and none of the cables are crimped, Install the two Torx-20 screws into the cluster.

      62.Slide the top steering column cover (red arrow) over the steering column and press the plastic trim piece (green arrow) into place.

      63.Install the two Philips head screws under the steering column cover.

      64.Connect the wires from the cluster to your circuit board. Hopefully you used some sort of connector, because it is a pain to get a soldering iron underneath the dash (ask me how I know).

      Note: The following step will apply power to the vehicle.
      65.Slide the red, positive terminal back onto the battery. Tighten the terminal nut to 6 Nm or until tight.

      66.Reinstall the battery cover by snapping it over the battery.

      Calibration Procedure
      Note: Once the circuit board is connected to the LEDs, you will need to calibrate the board, matching the needle on the gauge face to the LEDs. This is accomplished by changing the resistances of the pots in the circuit. Unfortunately, since your board will be very different from the Kit board, I will explain using the potentiometer nomenclature in the simplified diagram. For space concerns, click on THIS DOCUMENT for the full calibration procedure.

      Reinstallation of Various Interior Components
      Note: At this point, your LEDs should be responding properly to the needles. I recommend only doing the first step until you are happy with the calibration. Then, complete the rest to install the rest of the parts.

      67.Place the circuit board on top of the under-dash panel. Tuck the cables up, and then install the panel by sliding it into the two white clips on the firewall.

      68.Install the lower kicker panel by pressing the clips into the holes in the dash.

      69.Reinstall the three Torx-20 screws under the dash.

      70.Install the side dash cover by pressing the clips into the applicable holes.

      And that's it! Count the beers you have drunk and post it. I finished at least 3 cases through the duration of the project.

      Mike

      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    5. Banned lui16blue's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 18th, 2004
      Posts
      7,684
      10-27-2006 12:14 AM #5
      yessssssssssssssssssssssssssssss finallllyyy,omg i have been waiting for this since i was born!!!1111!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


      DIY fo sho


    6. Member spkn^GRMN's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 24th, 2002
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      13,430
      Vehicles
      Segway turbo
      10-27-2006 12:15 AM #6
      Well there it is folks, have at it!!!!!!




      Modified by SPKNGRMN at 11:29 PM 10-26-2006

      -Wes

      2014

    7. 10-27-2006 12:15 AM #7

      What a DIY!
      Longest I have seen yet!

    8. Member
      Join Date
      Nov 27th, 2004
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      7,123
      Vehicles
      2000 VW Jetta VRT, 2000 Audi TT Quattro
      10-27-2006 12:15 AM #8
      I'm so tired. Good god, wes come over here with a 6 pack

      Mike

      Chapter 11 Dubs: Member #001
      http://www.chapter11dubs.com
      -----------------------

    9. Member spkn^GRMN's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 24th, 2002
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      13,430
      Vehicles
      Segway turbo
      10-27-2006 12:27 AM #9
      Quote, originally posted by FaelinGL »
      I'm so tired. Good god, wes come over here with a 6 pack

      Mike

      On the way!!!

      -Wes

      2014

    10. 10-27-2006 12:28 AM #10
      wow i don't think i would ever have the balls to try that but good work and really nice writeup


      i noticed your methods for removing the needles from the gauges are reversed from alot of other diy's that ive seen, but yours also seems to be alittle more logical


    11. 10-27-2006 12:33 AM #11
      i just saw the videos and i have to admit it looks awesome....in the pictures i was like ehh rainbow colors but after seeing it working its definitely impressive

    12. Member Gstno1's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 13th, 2005
      Location
      Las Colinas
      Posts
      1,380
      Vehicles
      2010 Audi S5
      10-27-2006 12:42 AM #12
      oh im sooo doing this...thank you inginous VW gods

    13. Member Smoky_Llama's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 21st, 2005
      Location
      Bellevue, Nebraska
      Posts
      5,151
      Vehicles
      15' GTI
      10-27-2006 12:45 AM #13
      how easy is your kit to install, im really not that great with electronics
      Need Vag-Com in Eastern Nebraska and Western Iowa? Send me a PM.

      Current: 15' GTI Autobahn 6MT w/LP

      Previous: 12' Golf R, 12' GTI, 09' GTI, 02' Jetta TDI

    14. 10-27-2006 12:45 AM #14
      u said above u have a 'kit' does that mean your gonna make a few of them and sell em on the streets?? cuz if so i want one

    15. Banned LETTERMAN52's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 28th, 2003
      Posts
      27,940
      10-27-2006 12:54 AM #15
      Very well done.

    16. 10-27-2006 12:58 AM #16
      Un-freakin'-believable! Fabulous work. I'd do this, but my wife would kill me as I wouldn't see her for days.

    17. 10-27-2006 12:59 AM #17
      Hell of a job, all that work deserves lots of

    18. 10-27-2006 01:39 AM #18
      Awesome, looks crazy. i really like the shift light too.
      Too bad there is no way i'll have the patience or ability to do that.
      Good work

    19. Banned ItDiesToday's Avatar
      Join Date
      Oct 10th, 2005
      Posts
      5,290
      10-27-2006 01:42 AM #19
      BIGGGG

    20. Moderator staggered mk4's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 11th, 2003
      Location
      Bessemer City, North Carolina
      Posts
      5,068
      Vehicles
      '00 Jetta GLX VR6, '86 M-B 190E 8v
      10-27-2006 01:48 AM #20
      Quote, originally posted by VgRt6 »
      Un-freakin'-believable! Fabulous work. I'd do this, but my wife would kill me as I wouldn't see her for days.

      No excuses. DO IT !!

      "The hype of a wheel is not a derivative of its price... The cost is a derivative of their hype." M. Burroughs of Stanceworks

    21. Member vasillalov's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 4th, 2003
      Location
      Chicago, IL
      Posts
      8,149
      Vehicles
      2008 BMW 335i
      10-27-2006 01:56 AM #21
      From now on, you will be known as RADIOSHACK on the tex.

      And this mod should be called the RADIOSHACK mod.

      Major thumbs up to you and the rest of the contributors!

      Quote Originally Posted by MAG58 View Post
      Please consider your audience before saying something sensible. 80% of TCL drivers were actually banned from Formula 1 for being too fast.
      A turbocharger is a device in where exhaust gases go in, witchcraft happens, and then you go faster.

    22. Member
      Join Date
      Feb 7th, 2006
      Location
      Long Beach
      Posts
      1,139
      Vehicles
      1980 VW CADDY *SOLD*, 2014 JEEP, 2013 CC
      10-27-2006 02:07 AM #22
      how much u want to do mine cuz if i try this i'll fu#k it all up

    23. Member Dmdusn's Avatar
      Join Date
      Aug 16th, 2006
      Location
      Biloxi, Mississippi
      Posts
      353
      Vehicles
      2012 Golf R
      10-27-2006 02:28 AM #23
      This might be one of the coolest things I have ever seen. So when is the kit going to be available? I wanna be the first kid on my block with LED's. awesome job.
      2012 Golf R 4dr CSG APR 1+, HPFP, VWR
      2006 MKIV GTI APR 3+
      1972 Bug
      1964 Bug

    24. 10-27-2006 03:41 AM #24
      This is definetly going to be the new cool mod...screw bosers and staggered wheels this is awesome

    25. Senior Member bluebora20v's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jun 14th, 2001
      Location
      Bay
      Posts
      31,456
      Vehicles
      2000/VW/MK4 Jetta
      10-27-2006 05:56 AM #25

    26. Banned evol VR6's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 9th, 2006
      Posts
      1,730
      10-27-2006 06:16 AM #26
      sweet.

    27. Member siuson2's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 6th, 2003
      Location
      Hong Kong
      Posts
      8,982
      Vehicles
      03 Plat. Grey Blue Pearl VIP Jetta, 98 SLK, 95/00 Miata
      10-27-2006 07:33 AM #27
      thank you. thou i wouldn't be doing it. But you can't beat a DIY stepbystep like this one.

      Thanks again.

      Cheers,
      Ivan K Lee - NFJ - An Old Timer.
      The ViP Jetta IV 2003 GLi Vr6

    28. Member spkn^GRMN's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jul 24th, 2002
      Location
      Charlotte, NC
      Posts
      13,430
      Vehicles
      Segway turbo
      10-27-2006 08:40 AM #28
      Mike does have a KIT, with further instructions, to help you with your DIY process.
      Check the first post, under the cluster photo in the instructions beginning, there are links(says color selector & this page) to help.





      Modified by SPKNGRMN at 7:42 AM 10-27-2006

      -Wes

      2014

    29. 10-27-2006 08:56 AM #29
      *Patiently awaiting my wedding gift from Moe and Larry...err...I mean Mike and Wes*

      Now I know why I haven't heard from you in a while Mike. I thought you were locked in the bedroom.


    30. Senior Member tchristemac's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 4th, 2005
      Location
      East Islip, NY
      Posts
      25,405
      Vehicles
      Tooo Many to list
      10-27-2006 09:13 AM #30
      Great DIY, I may part take in this, this winter...... after I get my R32 seats and dash installed

    31. 10-27-2006 09:36 AM #31
      Great write-up!
      for you!

    32. 10-27-2006 10:36 AM #32
      Effin sweet

    33. 10-27-2006 10:45 AM #33
      Nice will do this when i get my car back next weekend

    34. 10-27-2006 11:02 AM #34
      Quote, originally posted by Rob’sVR6 »
      *Patiently awaiting my wedding gift from Moe and Larry...err...I mean Mike and Wes*
      Yeah, me to. I will pay for the kit if you guys will install it.

    35. Member Smoked02Jetta's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 23rd, 2006
      Location
      Boston, MA
      Posts
      2,293
      Vehicles
      2007 Rabbit
      10-27-2006 11:08 AM #35
      Sick!

    Page 1 of 5 12345 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •