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    Thread: GTI 5K Oil Change/Extraction DIY

    1. 11-08-2006 05:43 AM #1
      Thought I'd post up some pics and some of my experiences with the new GTIs first oil change.

      First off here's what you'll need:


      5l or 5 quarts of VW 502.00 oil
      I got a 5l jug of Pentosin for about $30 through my favorite local shop. If you're so inclined there are more adventurous folks trying VW 503 and even VW 504 european oils, but they're pretty hard to find and very expensive - not to mention we can't really take advantage of the extended service intervals here in the US.

      Update - Here's a list of worldwide VW 502 approved oils. Most of theese aren't widely available in the US but it's helpful nonetheless. Keep in mind that if an oil meets VW 502 spec it will probably say so on the bottle.


      MANN HU 719/6x / VW 06D-115-562 Oil Filter
      This one was $11 through my favorite local shop.

      Update - Alternatively you can use the Hengst Filter

      Hengst E27H D125 Oil Filter
      This is the one I used for 20K service for no other reason than it's what my local shop had in stock.


      Extra VW 502.00 Oil
      I got this extra 1l bottle of Pentosynth for top offs and just in case I needed more than the 5l fill.


      VW N 908 132 01 - 19mm Drain Plug
      If you're changing oil the conventional way, or if you want to make sure the extractor got everything replacing the drain plug is recommended.

      Oil Extractor Of course
      Jack
      Jack Stands 1 pair is all you really need
      T27 Torx Driver For removing the sound shield
      3/8" Ratchet For multiple things
      36mm 3/8" Drive Socket By far the easiest way to remove/install the oil filter.
      Funnel For filling the oil of course
      Milk Carton Or a suitable drain pan
      Rubbber/Latex Gloves Griots has some really nice heavy duty latex ones that don't disintigrate as soon as you brush them against something.
      Shop/Disposable Towels For cleaning up little mishaps, checking the oil level, etc.

      Update - I just did the 10,000 mile service and the oil filter drain seemed much harder to do this time. I'm going to recommend the special Oil Drain tool if you plan on doing all your own changes. Not only will you have no worries about breaking anything, it will keep you from accidentally making a mess like I did.

      1) Before you start make sure that the engine is warm, but not too hot. This will make the oil much easier to drain and it's especially crucial when using an oil extractor.


      2) Get your oil extractor ready. I've been meaning to try the oil extractor route for a while and this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage.


      3) The Pela comes with 2 different size Inset tubes that attach to the main tube. I was able to *just* fit the large tube all the way down the dipstick tube.


      4) Attach the dipstick tube to the main tube and start pumping, pretty soon the oil will start to flow all by itself.


      5) Once the oil pan is pretty much dry you'll start to see bubbles. Make sure the tube is all the way down in the oil pan, you may also have to pump the handle a bit more as the extractor starts to lose suction.


      6) I like to add about .25 to .5 liters of fresh clean oil at this point to make sure all the used crap is out of the oil pan. Once you see the extracted oil's color start to change you're pretty much good. Remove the oil extractor.


      7) At this point it's time to jack up the front of the car so you can get to the oil filter. I suppose you could use ramps but I didn't think of it before draining the oil, and I didn't want any sort of incline having the potential of getting less oil with the extractor. If you're lucky enough to have a lift, well then no worries. Jacking is a PITA because it seems that the frame rail is now the only safe place to support the car.

      Update - I found that all I really needed was one jackstand at the front right jack point, jacking up the whole front end wasn't necessary.


      8) Once the front end is up you'll need to remove a grand total of 8 T25 torx screws to get the bottom cover off.


      9) Here is the oil filter housing. Unscrew the drain cover.


      10) Once the cap is off you'll see the orange dain valve.


      11) Now it's time for the milk carton. Cut that sucker in half and use the bottom as a drain pan for the oil filter.


      12) Once you've got the milk carton in place push the orange valve up and to the side using a blunt object - like your Torx driver.


      13) When the oil filter housing is pretty much empty reseat the drain valve by pushing it back over, it should pop back down into place. Now use the 36mm socket to unscrew the filter housing. I got the 36mm socket from AST Tool for about $23 - it's item #2136


      14) Remove the old filter by pulling/twisting it off, and remove the old O-Ring just below the threads of the housing, inside the lip. I like to use some shop towels and give the whole housing a good wipe down so it's nice and clean before putting the new filter and O-Ring in. The filter's pretty tight but you should feel when it's all the way seated.

      Update - I think it may be a good idea to put some fresh oil in the filter housing before screwing it back on. It seemed to require ALOT less top up after the initial fill when I did this the last time. You'd be suprised how much oil that little housing holds, just be sure to reseat the drain valve before filling, and the housing attaches at an angle so don't put too much oil in there


      15) Reinstall the filter housing, torque to 25.5 NM.


      16) Reinstall the bottom cover.


      17) Remove the jackstands and lower the car


      18) Filler Up. 5l was just about perfect for me but I recommend putting checking after about 4.5l or so. Once it looks like the level is good run the car for a bit and then shut it off and check the level again. You'll probably need to add a bit more once the oil circulates back into the filter housing (unless you put some oil in before putting it back on, in which case you won't need as much).

      The nice part of using the extractor is that cleanups a snap. I can simply pour the oil from milk carton into the extractor, then just pour the oil from the extractor back into the original 5l oil container for recycling.


      19) Reset the service reminder.

      For vehicles with MFI:

      Quote »
      With the key out of the ignition

      - Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster.

      - While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “Service now!” message to appear on multi–functionscreen. Then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “m” (minutes) button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster.

      To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again - the display should indicate the future service by
      the message:

      “Service in 5,000 mi / 8,000 KM or 180 days or 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days” depending on Service Interval adaptation.

      For vehicles without MFI:

      Quote »
      With the key out of the ignition

      - Press and hold the “reset button for trip odometer”, located on the right side of the instrument cluster.

      - While holding the reset button insert the key and turn to the "Accessory" position. Wait for “wrench” symbol to appear in the odometer display then release the “reset button for trip odometer” and press the “MIN” button on the opposite side of the instrument cluster.

      To verify it's been reset hold the trip reset button again:

      The “wrench” symbol will appear together with the reset number of miles / kilometers you can drive until the service due date. The display changes after about 10 seconds. A “clock” symbol appears together with the reset number of days until the service due date.


      Update - VAG-COM Instructions

      I just recently got a Micro-CAN VAG-COM and did the 10,000 mile service. At the 10,000 mile service you need to adapt the SRI (Service Reminder Interval) from 5,000 mile service intervals to 10,000 mile service intervals.

      To perform the mileage adaptation:

      Quote »

      Select 17-Instruments
      Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
      Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 42 and select "Read"
      The window should read: "Minimum value mileage" and Min. Value Oil in 100 Miles
      The stored value should read "50" for 5000 mile intervals
      Enter "100" for 10000 mile intervals
      Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"

      You may also need to adapt the service interval days:

      Quote »
      Select 17-Instruments
      Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
      Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 49 and select "Read"
      The window should read: "minimum time interval" and Min. Value Insp. in 1 Days
      The stored value may read "180", if it does continue
      Enter "365" for 365 days
      Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"

      You can also reset the service reminder with the VAG-COM

      Quote »
      Select 17-Instruments
      Select Adaptation (10) under advanced functions
      Enter Adaptation Channel Number: 02 and select "Read"
      The window should read: "Service Reminder" and ServRemInd Closed Reset
      Enter "00" as the new value
      Select "Save" and select "Yes" when VAG-COM asks "Are you SURE?"

      To verify the settings briefly press and hold the trip counter reset button until the display reads "Service in 10,000 mi / 16,000 km or 365 days".


      Modified by bfourney at 10:19 AM 11-8-2006 - Fixed links but with smaller pics


      Modified by bfourney at 9:25 PM 1-23-2007 - Now with bigger pics


      Modified by bfourney at 11:29 PM 1-28-2007 - Now with VAG-COM procedures & updated info


      Modified by bfourney at 11:55 PM 10-8-2007 - Now with even BIGGER pics (thanks Google!), updated some info


      Modified by bfourney at 1:25 AM 10-8-2007


      Modified by bfourney at 1:53 AM 10-8-2007


    2. Member c1rcausa's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 08:28 AM #2
      Nice diy
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    3. Member agpatel21's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 09:59 AM #3
      How do you change the change interval from 5 to 10 useing vag-com.

    4. Banned gridcore's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 10:21 AM #4
      Awesome DIY. Where did you get the filter wrench and the oil extractor?

    5. Banned gridcore's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 12:17 PM #5
      Heh.


      Modified by gridcore at 1:18 PM 11-8-2006

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      11-08-2006 02:26 PM #6
      Awesome pics and writeup. This'll be useful, thanks!

    7. Member corradokidg60's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 02:30 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by agpatel21 »
      How do you change the change interval from 5 to 10 useing vag-com.

      http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/vw_sri.html


    8. 11-08-2006 02:32 PM #8
      I couldn't find anything specifically for the GTI, and I hardly found anything on oil extraction. Also there was alot of talk about the special tool for draining the oil filter housing, etc but never any pics so I could see what I was up against. I also don't think any of the ones I saw told you how to reset the SRI.


      Modified by VWYankee at 1:16 PM 11-8-2006

    9. 11-08-2006 02:38 PM #9
      [QUOTE=GTINC][QUOTE=bfourney Oil Extractor] [QUOTE]

      Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.


      Modified by GTINC at 3:00 AM 11-8-2006


      Huh?!

      I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.

      Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.


    10. 11-08-2006 02:49 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by gridcore »
      Awesome DIY. Where did you get the filter wrench and the oil extractor?

      The Oil extractor info is in the post - this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage. I think I got it 10% off with coupon from a previous order.

      Here's the link http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

      You can get them other places, maybe for less, but I had to order a bunch of car care stuff from them anyway.

      I forgot to add the details on the filter wrench, it's made by AST Tool. It's milled out of a solid piece of aluminum so it's a little cheaper than the ones made by Hazet, etc. I think it was about $23
      AST #2136


    11. Member VWYankee's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 05:05 PM #11
      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »

      Huh?!

      I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.

      Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.

      Don't worry about it, man. It would be a concern with 20 year old cars that have run on conventional oil all their life, but with a new car that has sythetic in it from day one, there's no need to worry about sluge, or metal shavings...

      *edit*
      I've added this to the FAQ, so I'm also cleaning the thread up a bit. So, if posts are deleted it was simply for cleaning it up since now the pics work.




      Modified by VWYankee at 1:08 PM 11-8-2006


    12. Banned gridcore's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 05:19 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »

      The Oil extractor info is in the post - this 6l capacity Pela made one was about $58 through Griots Garage. I think I got it 10% off with coupon from a previous order.

      Here's the link http://www.griotsgarage.com/catalog.jsp?&SKU=10122

      You can get them other places, maybe for less, but I had to order a bunch of car care stuff from them anyway.

      I forgot to add the details on the filter wrench, it's made by AST Tool. It's milled out of a solid piece of aluminum so it's a little cheaper than the ones made by Hazet, etc. I think it was about $23
      AST #2136

      Thank ya sir!


    13. 11-08-2006 05:51 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by VWYankee »

      *edit*
      I've added this to the FAQ, so I'm also cleaning the thread up a bit. So, if posts are deleted it was simply for cleaning it up since now the pics work.

      Thanks man, I'll try to get some bigger better pics up in the meantime.

      Anybody know if imageshack accounts expire,bandwith runs out, etc.?


    14. Member Sincity's Avatar
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      11-08-2006 08:08 PM #14
      Nice write-up. That is how I change my oil on my old ML320 and C320. The Benz is even easier because the oil filter is on top. This is also how I will do my oil changes on the GTI. Good job

    15. 11-09-2006 10:25 AM #15
      Is 5w40 only for FSI engine? Can I use 0w30 in the winter?

      Thanks!


    16. 11-09-2006 01:14 PM #16
      you can, if it's vw 502.00

    17. 11-16-2006 10:40 PM #17
      Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I have been searching for the oil filter socket wrench size.

    18. 11-18-2006 07:03 PM #18
      [QUOTE=bfourney][QUOTE=GTINC][QUOTE=bfourney Oil Extractor]
      Quote »

      Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.


      Modified by GTINC at 3:00 AM 11-8-2006


      Huh?!

      I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water. The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.

      Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.

      hey - great DIY man. thx alot for the pics and instructions. i am considering gathering all of these items and taking a crack at changing the oil for the first time in my '06 GLI over Thanksgiving.

      one quick question from a total newb to car maintenance ... i understand the concept behind running .5L of oil through the engine in order to make sure that all of the "bad" oil is properly extracted prior to adding new oil. just to be clear .... procedurally, would i (1) extract all oil until i see bubbles (2) add .5L of fresh oil (3) extract the .5L that i just added and then (4) proceed with the rest of the instructions? i guess my main concern is should there be an additional step that i need to take in between steps (2) and (3) described above? or is it really that simple?


    19. 12-04-2006 05:30 AM #19
      That's all there is to it, once all the oils out just add a bit more until you see fresh looking oil starting to come out. You can use this method using the extractor or draining the regular way, it's just easier to see the difference with the extractor.


      Quote, originally posted by Texas_GLI »

      one quick question from a total newb to car maintenance ... i understand the concept behind running .5L of oil through the engine in order to make sure that all of the "bad" oil is properly extracted prior to adding new oil. just to be clear .... procedurally, would i (1) extract all oil until i see bubbles (2) add .5L of fresh oil (3) extract the .5L that i just added and then (4) proceed with the rest of the instructions? i guess my main concern is should there be an additional step that i need to take in between steps (2) and (3) described above? or is it really that simple?


    20. 12-04-2006 07:18 AM #20
      It is a great method and good write up. Just one question, you said it is more convenient than the conventional way. I wonder how could that be when you still have to go underneath the car to remove the filter? I used the fumoto valve (www.fumotovalve.com) and it made my oil changed faster than anything I have done before. Just my .02 cents.


      Modified by dudleyrabbit at 3:22 AM 12-4-2006

    21. Member EsotericRR's Avatar
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      12-04-2006 10:12 AM #21
      Neat write up man, very thorough. Looks like a super clean way to do it to. Oh ya, thats a sweet MV you got there to.

    22. 12-30-2006 01:50 AM #22
      Not sure if this has been addressed before and the search function is down at the moment. I'm about perform my very first oil change and I was wondering which direction to turn to unscrew the drain plug and the filter housing. Is it the conventional counter clock-wise to unscrew or some weird German thing? I may be going crazy but I read something a while back contradicting this very thing.

    23. 12-30-2006 02:10 AM #23
      help!?!

    24. 12-30-2006 03:34 AM #24
      So, just had a pretty successful oil change done on my babe. To my great dismay, no weird German clockwise, counterclockwise surprises.

      One minor mishap I encountered was the orange push drain on the filter housing. I used too much force and manage to break off the tip, although I was still able to push it aside to drain the filter first. Should I be worried replacing that thing or not or am I just making too much fuss over a simple oil change ?


    25. Member velocidub's Avatar
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      12-30-2006 09:26 AM #25
      Quote, originally posted by VWfightsCrime »

      One minor mishap I encountered was the orange push drain on the filter housing. I used too much force and manage to break off the tip, although I was still able to push it aside to drain the filter first. Should I be worried replacing that thing or not or am I just making too much fuss over a simple oil change ?

      A local shop by me damaged that orange part and the filter housing leaked. They had to replace the entire filter housing.


    26. 12-30-2006 09:38 AM #26
      nice thats pretty cool never saw anything like that might have to pick one up maybe the pneumatic one and that wall mounted shop vac

    27. 12-30-2006 07:49 PM #27
      Nice write-up, but my service manual will have every oil change/service stamped by the dealer hahaha. And, the first 3 or 4 will be stamped by the German dealer until I get this thing back to the states. (Military)
      90 Corrado 222 whp (sold) , 95 Rolling Stones (Germany, sold), 07 GTI, German tuned, 170 GPS mph, Nurburgring BEAST , 96 A6 Avant (Germany 200 PS, 260 kph) , 93 Passat Combi (German F-150), 96 Passat Combi, VR6, euro spec, 240 kph, 89 Cabriolet (Germany, FUN), 01 TT, baseball, Quattro, 225 hp, 45K in 01, 9.3K in 12, owned by 40+ Year old woman, never chipped, still has paper air filter box, always garaged

    28. 12-30-2006 10:46 PM #28
      I always used the extractor on my MkIV TDI because I never had to lift the car (oil filter on top).

      With the GTI, I tried the extractor after placing the car on ramps. I didn't get all of the oil out (almost 1 qt. short). Since I had the car up, I just did it the old fashioned way and will continue to drain the oil from the bottom.


    29. Member
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      12-31-2006 12:45 AM #29
      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »
      Also there was alot of talk about the special tool for draining the oil filter housing, etc but never any pics so I could see what I was up against.

      There are pics of that tool here:
      http://www.mkv-gti.net/wiki/in...g_oil

      Quote, originally posted by GTINC »
      Never us anything that does not drain the oil pan from the bottom. You need to remove the water & sludge from the bottom.

      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »
      Huh?!

      I think draining from the bottom is overated. If you're using the proper oil and changing it ohh say less than every 100K miles there shouldn't be any sludge or water.

      I will grant you that sludge or water should not be a matter of concern.
      If there's enough water that one has to drain like that, the engine has bigger
      issues!

      OTOH, however convenient the "oil suction" method may be, I would
      rather drain oil in the first few oil changes via the drain plug. There
      may be "stuff" in the oil that would be heavy enough to not get sucked
      up by the "oil vacuum". There can be metal particles, and/or
      silicon particles (from sand casted parts).

      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »
      The primary method of changing the oil listed in VESIS is the extraction method.

      Maybe because it's the quickest (read: cheapest) way to get old oil out?

      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »
      Also if you read my post I actually ran an extra .5l of clean oil through to be sure and get 99% of the old oil out. I'm pretty confident that this method gets at least the same amount of oil as regular draining, possilbly more - it's just cleaner and more convenient.

      I guess you won't know how much oil the suction method extracts versus
      the draining method until you do a comparo on your own engine. (I wouldn't
      rely on somebody else's saying "I always have to put XXX quarts in my 2.0T";
      past experience indicates that the amount of new oil needed after an oil change
      varies by as much as one quart for the same type of engine, maybe depending
      on methodology, filter used, etc.)

      I also hope, for your sake, that the suction method does not affect the
      engine's longevity. I may adopt that method at some point, but
      probably not in the first 30-50K miles; I just don't feel good working
      against gravity while there's still the possibility of nasty stuff settling
      in the oil pan that needs to come out.

      Quote, originally posted by VWfightsCrime »
      One minor mishap I encountered was the orange push drain on the filter housing. I used too much force and manage to break off the tip, although I was still able to push it aside to drain the filter first. Should I be worried replacing that thing or not or am I just making too much fuss over a simple oil change ?

      As far as I can tell, the valve would still seat and seal properly
      without that "tip" on the orange valve.

      Andy Nguyen \ aqn at panix dot com \ mkv-gti.net \ gti-vr6.net

    30. 12-31-2006 01:21 AM #30
      VW still has oil filters accessible from underneath? agh! its soooooo
      easy to do when they are on top of the engine. however, BMW and Porsche have decided in thier wisdom that we dont need dipdticks and newer models won't have any. rendering my oil extraction pump uselss in the future.

    31. 12-31-2006 02:33 PM #31
      Thanks for the DIY, but I wonder why noboy asked.

      WHAT IS A MV AGUSTA F4 DOING IN YOUR GARAGE?

      MORE PICTURES OF THAT PIECE OF ART!!!
      Also, do you use two jackstand, or do you just jack up one side?

      As for people complaining about the oil extarction method, dont worry about it. This has been the trademark fr german cars for some time, especially MB,a nd if you have a Benteley manual you will see that VW uses a specialized extractor as well.

      If you go on BITOG.com and look it up, plenty of pepole have been doing exctractions there and those guys are fanatics about oil.


      Modified by StoicDude at 6:41 PM 12-31-2006


    32. 01-01-2007 01:29 AM #32
      BMW used extractors at their Oxnard prep facility to change out break in oil on M cars. saw them doing it on a tour.

      after sucking out the old oil I like to pour in a little cheap min oil and then suck again and you get clean out out.


    33. 01-02-2007 07:54 AM #33
      Quote, originally posted by bfourney »


      7) At this point it's time to jack up the front of the car so you can get to the oil filter. I suppose you could use ramps but I didn't think of it before draining the oil, and I didn't want any sort of incline having the potential of getting less oil with the extractor. If you're lucky enough to have a lift, well then no worries. Jacking is a PITA because it seems that the frame rail is now the only safe place to support the car.

      Uhh, I've been jacking the car from the frame rails and supporting it with jackstands at the metal C-blocks where the suspension arms meet the car in bushings.

      Is that dangerous?


    34. Member sebasEuRo's Avatar
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      01-02-2007 01:45 PM #34
      bump for my own info And also you can use Photobucket.com instead of ImageShack or whatever else service since Photobucket does not expire or remove ur pics
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    35. 01-04-2007 01:41 AM #35
      anyone?

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