This forum is starting to die out you can hear the crickets...
So I decided to start a Rover appreciation thread. I believe that they are some of the best offroaders out there, of course I'm biased
I get 16 flat in the summer with the ATs, driving 45-65 to/from work. Drops sub 14 in the winter. I used to hit almost 18 w stock size m&s tires with the same drive.
I drive 700 miles a week in my '98 Disco. I will turn 190k in 2 weeks. It's been 100% more reliable than ANY of my VW commuters
Rovers are like Volvos. They drive very very well...until they don't. What happens is that they're neglected because folks don't realize anything is wrong...truck drives straight, seems to go and stop well. Then one day they overheat the truck or that tiny clunk from the driveline seems louder. They take it to a shop who may or may not know what they're doing (Dealer or Not) and pay out the arse.
Anything earlier than '99 is easy to work on and can be fixed in the field with a rock and some tape. Even D2's aren't bad, you just need to know what light means you're screwed and what means nothing.
I keep the Disco at 65 on my commute (almost entirely rt 95) and get 17mpg. Loaded up with gear on the rack and full of folks and dogs, with the AC on and averaging 70, I got 15mpg even last month.
My input on Rover ownership is that of a completely built '95 D1 (in my opinion, the best years were 94-95) that was also my daily driver. MPG was crap, but then again my truck was about as aerodynamic as a brick so I pulled about 9-11 mpg constant. Never cruised above 65 mph. Reliability was not the best either. There was more than a few occasions where she wouldnt start up for me and a couple times where she just plain died on me while driving. Turned out to need a complete fuel delivery overhaul (new tank, fill and supply hoses and venting lines) and was suffering from vapor lock somehow. One time I went wheeling and everything went fine (I count myself lucky). Got into her in the morning and then went to hit the wipers. Got nothing. They just randomly decided to stop working. Dont know why. Got home and did both relays, checked the switch and still got nothing. Ran the MFU test procedure and discovered that the MFU was bad. The MFU is this little piece of **** box behind the main fuse panel so you have to get into it through the dash. Replaced the MFU and the wipers started working! New problem was that the truck no longer started. Replaced the brand new MFU with the old one and the truck immediately started back up but the front wipers stopped working again. The entire truck was that way. There are plenty of stories of odd occurrences like that. Theres a famous one where a D1 would only start and run while the rear door was open. The moment it was closed, the truck would die. I had an alarm issue on mine. There is a small computer that controls the electric locks, ignition system and alarm. My central locking and alarm would only work when it rained. There was one time I pulled into the parking garage at Home Depot and went to lock the door. Turned the key, the truck locked and the alarm went crazy. Unlocked it and the alarm stopped. Opened and closed the door and locked it and the alarm went nuts. Did this a couple of times and finally said F it and went inside. If someone wanted to steal something, insurance would cover it. A couple days later, at about 5 am, I heard an alarm going off. It sounded familiar but I didnt bother to go check. Came out about 2 hours later to go to work and the truck was unlocked. It had decided to blare the alarm and simultaneously unlock the truck. Funny thing was it was not raining. Tracked down the alarm computer under the glove box and replaced it with a good used one (you need to learn the name Will Tillery and get his contact information) and solved the issue, mostly. Never got the flashing lights back but the alarm stopped going psycho and my central locking returned...mostly. There was also the time, prior to tracking down the problem with the alarm ecu where in the middle of 295 in DC (a scary f'ing road to begin with) the alarm ecu decided the truck was being stolen and cut ignition and killed the truck. That was fun.
If you are looking at a Rover, you need to get good at doing the work yourself. There are a few good, trustworthy indie shops that are cheaper than a dealer but still cost a lot. Parts are also expensive too. Tata now has Rover and they have started to stop production and supply of D1 spares. P38s are cool trucks BUT they are electrical nightmares. The suspension is an easy fix with a coil conversion but everything runs through multiple satellite fuse boxes and computers, not to mention the HUGE BCU. D2s are kind of cool. Bigger than the P38 and the D1 but there is also a lot of electrical things going on with them. They are easier to repair than a P38 but there is still a bunch of crap going on in them. P38 parts are more expensive than D1/ D2 parts. D2 has some special things that only it has (like front hubs not being rebuildable). One thing that is for sure, and has already been mentioned, is that you need to get used to fading accessories. Windows that decide to roll down only when they want to. Cruise that wont. Sunroofs that you should seal shut because they will either freeze open or leak. Oh, and CHECK FOR RUST!!!!
I loved my D1 but its nowhere near as good as my (IDI diesel) Cruiser is. Not even close. The D1 has the advantage when it comes to suspension design but nothing else.
Pfffffffft...buy a toyota and tell me about how much parts cost. the last FJ62 I had cost me more to buy ONE rotor than an entire front brake job on a Disco....Tcase seals etc etc etc.
This is my fourth Rover. They can be odd, but they're easy to fix and very cool.
My 97 Disco has been more reliable then the 00 s4 it replaced... The only thing I would like more is a 95 (no-obd) 5sp version...with about 100 more hp.
while driving around last night, the headlights flickered, the radio cut in and out, the tachometer bounced around crazily and the battery light came on. I limped it back home, and had AAA come pick me up this morning to drop the car off at my parents house.
Normally I'd be angry about this situation, but I'm happy that all signs point to be a bad alternator, versus something else. The mazda continues to pull daily duty, but I'm super optimistic that after replacing the alternator, the Range Rover will be up to taking over daily duty for a while.
finally got my rangie up and running properly. learned a lot along the way, but still am green when it comes to being shade tree mechanic.
I developed a nasty hot start problem. Started with ignition (orange, and weak) and purchased distributor, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition amplifier. That didn't solve it.
bought coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump (used). Finally gave in and bought a fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up to the fuel rail. Rail indicated 20psi, well below standard spec. Bought a new fuel pump, and she has been running great!
Now that she runs, I can start working on her brakes, cooling system, oil leaks, suspension and other things that don't work (rear door, rear defroster, pass. side mirror, etc.))
If one does not research a potential purchase, they're taking a huge risk...Rover, VW, Pontiac, Toyota, doesn't matter. With VWs and Rovers, it's even more important as they're quirky. If you can't perform a field-fix on some flickering lights or a wonky ignition, you should buy a newer car with a warranty/roadside assistance plan or make sure the AMEX mom and dad pay off every month has a high limit.
Driving up a small grade at 15mph and make a right turn only to feel the steering tight as hell. Thought I broke a power steering hose or something. Straighten the wheels up and press the brakes. Oh, those aren't working either. Grab the e-brake and pull it to a stop. Look down, all the electronics are still on but the tach is at zero and the oil light is on.
Jumped out and checked the oil and its at a perfect level. Let it set for a minutes and it fires back up fine. Drive it home and park it. Now I look out the window and stare to down while it taunts me.:sly:
So no built up pressure in the fuel tank? With mine, the fuel tank had a bad venting system and the pressure would build starving the pump for fuel. It would die, I would hop out undo the cap and it would blow a huge amount of vapor and then it would start up again.
PM for further details. I will miss it in a strange way.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ask a question
Ask a question
VW Vortex - Volkswagen Forum
84.4M posts
1.5M members
Since 2001
A forum community dedicated to all Volkswagen owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, new releases, and more!