The everything Land Rover thread.

[MRVW00]

P38, D1 or D2?

D2 and/or P38

[MCTB]

D2 and/or P38

Theyre different in terms of running gear and in size so they are going to ride different. The P38 is more like a car inside than a D2. The P38 is going to ride better than the D2. Try the two of them out first and go from there. I love the P38 but dont have the balls to actually own one. There are a few aftermarket warranty companies that will give you a good bumper to bumper policy for something around $3k. If I were to buy one, the warranty would be purchased without a doubt.

[MRVW00]

The aftermarket companies I deal with, WON'T TOUCH LR's...LOL!

I'm serious.

[MCTB]

I found one. Ill see if I can find them again.

[need_a_VR6]

My 97 Disco has been more reliable then the 00 s4 it replaced... The only thing I would like more is a 95 (no-obd) 5sp version...with about 100 more hp.

[MRVW00]

I wouldn't mind a TD D1 like they showed in "Wheeler Dealers"

[Row1Rich]

Looking to buy a Landy myself, saw an add on Craigslist:

<< 97 Land Rover Discovery - $1500
I'm selling my Land Rover Discovery. It starts up and sounds great, but does not accelerate past 5 mph. dont know why.

>>

Any ideas what the problem could be? I'm handy and could fix most things, the price is right. I'd like to have an idea what it could be before I look at the truck.

[MRVW00]

TTT.....

I'm SERIOUSLY Landy shopping...

[OVERPAR]

Looking to buy a Landy myself, saw an add on Craigslist:

<< 97 Land Rover Discovery - $1500
I'm selling my Land Rover Discovery. It starts up and sounds great, but does not accelerate past 5 mph. dont know why.

>>

Any ideas what the problem could be? I'm handy and could fix most things, the price is right. I'd like to have an idea what it could be before I look at the truck.

could be one of eight bajillion things...cam lobes worn to nothing, clogged exhaust, intake hose collapsed (more common on the older RRCs but not out of the question...) Mileage on the motor could narrow it down, but if you can't go there and diagnose it within an hour of poking around, it's not worth your time. I'm not saying not worth anyone's time, but it hinges on how mechanical you are. Would you do Timing chains in a VR6 on your own? If yes, then the pain threshold on that truck would be higher (or any other vehicle...I'm not being Rover Specific here).

A friend who makes a living doing Diesel conversions on Rovers lives by the creedo that if the truck is for sale for $1500, it's only worth $500 at best. This is truth gleaned from 25 plus years of dealing with these and the nice small places that like to fester rot and the fact that original owners of the trucks are usually too coddled to notice the things fall apart around them When they decide to sell, it's usually after years of neglect.

The upside is that you could score a solid rig for under $1k and with some elbow grease, end up with a competent off road rig.

[MRVW00]

Looking for a RRC LWB....going to be my travel car/mobile office.

Anything?

[Harv]

Looking for a RRC LWB....going to be my travel car/mobile office.

Anything?

Lets share a little story with a user on here who thought a Craigslist Range wouldn't be so bad..

Went something like this..

while driving around last night, the headlights flickered, the radio cut in and out, the tachometer bounced around crazily and the battery light came on. I limped it back home, and had AAA come pick me up this morning to drop the car off at my parents house.

Normally I'd be angry about this situation, but I'm happy that all signs point to be a bad alternator, versus something else. The mazda continues to pull daily duty, but I'm super optimistic that after replacing the alternator, the Range Rover will be up to taking over daily duty for a while.

finally got my rangie up and running properly. learned a lot along the way, but still am green when it comes to being shade tree mechanic.

I developed a nasty hot start problem. Started with ignition (orange, and weak) and purchased distributor, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, and ignition amplifier. That didn't solve it.

bought coolant temp sensor, fuel filter, and fuel pump (used). Finally gave in and bought a fuel pressure gauge and hooked it up to the fuel rail. Rail indicated 20psi, well below standard spec. Bought a new fuel pump, and she has been running great!

Now that she runs, I can start working on her brakes, cooling system, oil leaks, suspension and other things that don't work (rear door, rear defroster, pass. side mirror, etc.))

Which ended up with..

mine will hopefully be gone tonight.

Good luck!

[MRVW00]

Are you saying i should run?

I need a large SUV...and I like how they look/ride, dammit!

[need_a_VR6]

Usually. I would sell you my Disco but I would feel bad. :p

[OVERPAR]

If one does not research a potential purchase, they're taking a huge risk...Rover, VW, Pontiac, Toyota, doesn't matter. With VWs and Rovers, it's even more important as they're quirky. If you can't perform a field-fix on some flickering lights or a wonky ignition, you should buy a newer car with a warranty/roadside assistance plan or make sure the AMEX mom and dad pay off every month has a high limit.

Choose to be as helpless as you like

[MuddyMudskipper]

Lets share a little story with a user on here who thought a Craigslist Range wouldn't be so bad..

Ahhh but the story and countless others like it never gets old.

[ValveCoverGasket]

someone needs to buy this:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/2498042692.html

before i do...

[Harv]

someone needs to buy this:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/2498042692.html

before i do...

Ready for a diesel swap & needs tune up...

[MuddyMudskipper]

Ready for a diesel swap...

I wish. Thats the kinda stuff dreams are made of for most Golden State Rover enthusiasts like like myself.

[MCTB]

someone needs to buy this:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/2498042692.html

before i do...

Thats about $600 too much. 1996 is the first year of OBDII which isnt too swap friendly. Find a 94 or 95 OBDI truck if thats the plan. OBDI also gives you a tailpipe sniffer test instead of a OBD plug test. The moment the OBD computer doesnt read, its an instant failure.

[ValveCoverGasket]

interesting

[Harv]

Here's a new one today..


Driving up a small grade at 15mph and make a right turn only to feel the steering tight as hell. Thought I broke a power steering hose or something. Straighten the wheels up and press the brakes. Oh, those aren't working either. Grab the e-brake and pull it to a stop. Look down, all the electronics are still on but the tach is at zero and the oil light is on.

Jumped out and checked the oil and its at a perfect level. Let it set for a minutes and it fires back up fine. Drive it home and park it. Now I look out the window and stare to down while it taunts me.

[MCTB]

Here's a new one today..


Driving up a small grade at 15mph and make a right turn only to feel the steering tight as hell. Thought I broke a power steering hose or something. Straighten the wheels up and press the brakes. Oh, those aren't working either. Grab the e-brake and pull it to a stop. Look down, all the electronics are still on but the tach is at zero and the oil light is on.

Jumped out and checked the oil and its at a perfect level. Let it set for a minutes and it fires back up fine. Drive it home and park it. Now I look out the window and stare to down while it taunts me.

Mine would die on me intermittently also. Do me a favor and go check the fuel filler cap. Any built up pressure?

[MuddyMudskipper]

Now I look out the window and stare to down while it taunts me.

/Hate

Mine did that to me. At first it was infrequent, and then it became more common. It was a slow dying fuel pump.

[Harv]

/Hate

Mine did that to me. At first it was infrequent, and then it became more common. It was a slow dying fuel pump.

Mother.

I replaced it a few years ago. I couldn't of put more than 20,000 on it since then.

I remember pulling it out and there being a ton of sand around it. PO must of liked the beach.


I was thinking it had to do something with the AC being on. I usually never use it but it was 95 today and the windows weren't getting it done. I

[MCTB]

So no built up pressure in the fuel tank? With mine, the fuel tank had a bad venting system and the pressure would build starving the pump for fuel. It would die, I would hop out undo the cap and it would blow a huge amount of vapor and then it would start up again.

[need_a_VR6]

For all those interested in getting one, I'm selling mine.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...9#post72684879

PM for further details. I will miss it in a strange way.

[Harv]

Thoughts? Opinions?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Land-...ht_2856wt_1165

[ValveCoverGasket]

wow that thing is stupid cheap.

speaking of brit rovers... ran across this last night:
http://www.mod-sales.com/tender/listing.htm

check out some of those 90s and 110s, all diesel of course , super cheap! and plenty that are old enough to register...

[MCTB]

Thoughts? Opinions?


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Land-...ht_2856wt_1165

As someone who has been around a lot of ROTW Rovers, I wouldnt do it without someone that you know and trust to check it out. Cannot see the crossmembers, frame, door bottoms, bimetal corrosion, turbo health, if it is a 200tdi or a 2.5 turbo (the latter being not so reliable), if its a true 85 or an "85", etc...

The ROTW 90s have a bulkhead behind the seats that severely limits any room for the driver and make for a terribly uncomfortable positioning. I know some people who can help get eyes on one if youre interested. The Brits know that their farm implements are now eligible for import and are slapping shiny paint jobs on their worst garbage and sending it over to eager buyers who are mostly disappointed by the results.

[MCTB]

wow that thing is stupid cheap.

speaking of brit rovers... ran across this last night:
http://www.mod-sales.com/tender/listing.htm

check out some of those 90s and 110s, all diesel of course , super cheap! and plenty that are old enough to register...

2.5 NA diesel = SLUG

[ValveCoverGasket]

2.5 NA diesel = SLUG

Slow is ok... Can it tow anything?

How about this guy...
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2518190108.html
Highish mileage...? Seems cheap, probably not super rusty being in Oregon

[Harv]

Slow is ok... Can it tow anything?

How about this guy...
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2518190108.html
Highish mileage...? Seems cheap, probably not super rusty being in Oregon

Looks like rear has the spare on it. So that means the back wheel on the door is also a spare because the regular wheels can't be attached the back door.

[MCTB]

Slow is ok... Can it tow anything?

How about this guy...
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/2518190108.html
Highish mileage...? Seems cheap, probably not super rusty being in Oregon

I would say that it is still high in the pricing. That amount of miles with no mention of motor/ trans/ clutch work would make me a little wary though. Im assuming sunroofs so check everywhere under the carpets for rust. 150k is just about max on the BOPR V8s.

Looks like rear has the spare on it. So that means the back wheel on the door is also a spare because the regular wheels can't be attached the back door.

That doesnt mean anything. My D1 had 5 spare wheels and no alloys. Spacers are available to move the mounting pad up and away from the door. I like the spares better than the alloys.

[ValveCoverGasket]

150k is just about max on the BOPR V8s.

good to know

what issues does it have after 150k...

[Harv]

I'm ready to start car shopping...


D1 keeps overheating on the highway. Can't figure out why. Last summer I replaced the radiator, fan clutch, checked the t-stat and head gasket. Isn't leaking anything, but still over heats.