being the great mechanic that I am, I overtightened and stripped the thread on the block. anyone have any suggestions?
#71
just did this this weekend, your instructions made it easy, thanks bro![]()
oh yeah and i think ive got everyone beat $32 from the stealership, but at least they didnt charge me for the oring
Modified by makeluvtomyvw at 10:10 PM 3-28-2010
#72
being the great mechanic that I am, I overtightened and stripped the thread on the block. anyone have any suggestions?
#73
i replaced 2 coolant flanges and i also got new o rings and used the high temp gasket sealer and i still have pink putty building around there....and now i have a serious leak but i have no idea where it is...no g12 on ground and im filling up 1L of g12 every 3 days
#74
DIY helped me much! No more leaking coolant!!!!![]()
Next up is replacing the front oxygen sensor @ the exhaust manifold! I know there's a DIY for this somewhere too!
#75
Just completed the job. I did not loosen the bolt on the bar. There was enough play in it to move up up a couple of inches to get it out. Thanks for the write up.
#76
Helping my son do this job on his 2004 GLI. The bottom stud mounting for the coolant flange is also holding a bundle of aluminum fuel lines. The bracket holding the fuel lines needs to come off that stud before the flange can come off. Is it safe to push the lines that far (about 3/4 inch) without causing trouble, or do I need to back the stud out, or am I missing some trick? Any suggestions, would be much appreciated.
BTW, this is an excellent DIY post. Thanks for doing it.
#77
Haven't checked the thread in a while - glad to see it's still useful!![]()
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#79
I'm assuming you mean what you would clean the gasket area with? I would use some carb cleaner on a rag to remove any dirt etc. It should be pretty clean already, but you always want to make sure the mating surface is really clean.
To clean up the oozing and crusty G12, I use a 50/50 mix of simple green and water, after everything is repaired and leak free. I actually use this on my entire motor and engine bay.
Good luck!
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#80
#81
thanks a lot, took me about hour and half, make sure u get all hoses and air box out of the way makes it much easier.
#82
i tryed autozone and they dont have it and dont even know what im talking about. is there some where i can order it? or is there a different name for it? alls i know is people at auto zone are ****ing retared and i dont know how they got jobs there
#83
The flange?
If you want to order online. GermanAutoParts.com , ECSTuning.com, Or my personal favorite due to the cheaper prices, brand of part disclosure and free shipping on orders over $50 .. AutoHausAZ.com.
If you want to pick it up locally, I would go to a local VAG shop that also sells parts. Or the VW dealer.
My local NAPA carries Pentosin G12. They could also most likely order G12+ or G12++ if you prefer those. I just recently did a complete coolant system overhaul this last week and went with G12++.
Also..
This may or may not have been mentioned, but i wouldnt put any type of gasket sealant in my coolant system.
Volkswagens love REAL Volkswagen parts.
#84
It's all in the DIY...I even gave you the part #'s from ECS (unfortunately I just noticed they have updated their part #'s, so I will update appropriately). No local FLAPS will be able to help you with either the flange or G12, so Kaie is correct...order online, or visit your dealer. And, yes, please buy the OEM - the OEM part is much heavier duty than the aftermarket design. I ended up changing it a second time when I changed the clutch on this car.
ECS - Meyle coolant flange
ECS - 1 gallon of Pentosin G12
It has been mentioned, and I stated it as optional in step #9. Do what you want, but I prefer to take out a little insurance - the aluminum head is very porous and the cast is rough, plus the aluminum and plastic flange will expand and contract at different rates and over time I feel that a small amount of high temp sealant on the rubber seal would not be out of line for this type of repair.
To be exact and point out the flaw in your statement - no sealant is going IN the cooling system, just on the rubber seal that will contact the head material.
I have heard statements like this before, and I would like to hear some concrete facts as to why any type of sealant would be "bad". If you make a contradictory statement, be prepared to back it up. I'm not talking opinion, but FACT.
I also would like to state that this car is still running, coolant flange leak free.
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#85
I am fixing to fill mine up with quickcrete and sink it.
#86
Hi hope someone can help with mine 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo i change the coolant flange but when i took out the screws for it they were like a four point head not a flange head bolt how do you get them tight so it does not leak . I try the way i took them out use a four point screw driver but leak bad. i did go get 10 mm flange head bolts so i can use a torque i think 5 to 7 lbs. thanks if someone can help
#87
So do any of you know the difference between these two parts? The part that I took off of my car (Audi TT quattro 2000) is 1j0 919 506 E, which was under the battery, but I can't find anywhere online that has that item number...the only one I keep on running into is the one ending in K. Are they the same thing? Please help...I am knew at diy on my car, but determined, since I don't want to get robbed my the dealer.
-vic
#88
Not related in the slightest to the thread content or DIY, but I'll bite
Looks like a model year split - E is a 10 pin module and K is a 14 pin module, so they are different. Get the E version, ECS sells it:
http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/1j0_919_506_E/
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#89
i bought my flange from german auto parts, is this an OEM part? I did not see any manufactures stamp of any kind on it.
Should I send it back and buy from the VW dealer?
#90
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#91
#92
Hey,
My first time changing this infamous flange. The directions seem helpful but I can't see the pictures anymore and I think they would really make this job easier. I'm a newbe at this mechanic stuff![]()
#93
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#94
Pictures back up![]()
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#95
thanks for posting this diy.
my 2.slow sprung a leak this morning.
What is the part number (or link to ECS,) for the "small" o-ring and clip on the temp sensor?
thanks again.
andrew
#96
Ok guys, I made the DIY but I can't hold your hand. Go to ECS and look it up. FYI, the o-ring usually comes with the sensor.
What I found:
Clip - http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...Sensor/ES3055/
Sensor O-ring - http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-...nges/ES264172/
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#97
Thanks for the reply - didn't mean to come off like a q q whiny baby, was just thrown off by ECS saying "...O-Ring that is on most clip-in cooling sensors/senders..." rather than "this totally fits the temp sender in your Mk4".
at any rate, the part is on the way and I appreciate your confirmation of the correct part number!
#98
No problem, I wasn't trying to be a dick, although I think I did a pretty good job at it
![]()
That sensor clip and o-ring fits a lot of different models and gens of VW and Audi and you should be good with it. ECS could be a little more specific on what part fits, for sure.
Glad the DIY helped, and good luck with your work![]()
-Mike | BigSkyEuro
2003 A4 1.8TQT Atlas Avant | REVO 2 | Podi P1 Stepper
1980 VW Lago Caddy 1.8 JH Hybrid swap
1972 Bay Window 9 Passenger Deluxe Transporter w/ 2.0L F.I. VWAC
#99
Did this repair yesterday after a month plus of leaking and topping off with water. Since the temp dropped to 8* tonight glad I got all that water out the radiator and everything locked back up.
My only suggestion and maybe it was just my bad luck, but I would say spend the extra $.69 and pick up a new coolant sensor clip. Mine snapped as I put it back on.
#101
Thanks for the great DIY!
I just did it and taking my time it took me about an hour.
#102
Thanks so much for this DIY! I've been systematically replacing hoses since one burst, and I think I might have inadvertently cracked the seal on the flange when I was replacing the top heater hose while trying to wrestle it off the flange.
Your instructions were really clear and easy to follow. I don't do a ton of my own work, but was able to knock this one out no problem.
I wasn't able to walk away after 2 hours...I spent the bulk of the day doing it, but I was also doing a lot of clean up along the way, and I swapped out a few more hoses while I was there (bottom heater, and the pair of oil cooler hoses).
Thanks again for the great DIY!
#103
Did this myself a little over a week ago. It's the most involved DIY I have done so far. I typically stick with brake and oil changes with no problem. I made sure to put twist ties on hoses that I disconnected as a visual reminder. I have pictures of the crack that was causing the leak and where I finished off the smaller hose inlet on the bottom of the flange. Whole thing was looking fragile.
No more adding distilled water every 3 or so days!
Thanks for the informative thread!
Joe-
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
#104
Special thanks to MikeWire and all of the contributors for helping me do this repair yesterday. It's obviously an infamous problem, and many more will need help to the future. I did a Youtube video of this repair, for the benefit of those to come. In the video description I included a link back to this thread as well.
http://youtu.be/3ShCTe8YzMI
#105
just wrapped this up.. only issue is I CANNOT get the plastic clip back in on the flange to hold the sensor in? everything is back on the car and set to go but this is a no go... Ideas?