with the chump car event a week away the motor is ready to drop, just waiting on TT for the cam. WOOOT
Ok, I attempted to read through the entire thread but it's a bit overwhelming and there is a bunch of different info for different setups. So, here I am asking about my specific situation.
I have a '92 GTI, Digi2 8v, no power options, no MFA, ps, a/c. I'm swapping a '98 OBD2 ABA, only using the OBD2 engine harness, keeping Mk2 trans. What is the simplest way for me to go about wiring this up? I should have the VSS but not sure. Will I even need it with an MFA cluster? Also, will my PS lines and A/C lines hook up to the Mk3 accessories? A quick walkthrough would really do wonders for me right now. The motor is showing up in a day or so and I need to have this running by Monday...
Thanks in advance, fellas
Last edited by ShotgunFacelift; 11-04-2011 at 03:35 AM.
You SHOULD have a cable speedo, not a VSS sender so in theory you should need to add the Hall generator (part #321-907-345-B) on the back of your cluster. The wiring tag should be there, just a matter of attaching the board to the generator then the signal will be available at W1. If you buy an MFA cluster it will already have the generator, but you won't be able to use the MFA functions without adding the stalks, sensors, and the correct wiring. The write-up on adding it is here: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...-your-aba-swap
Thanks for the input. Currently I have all electrical disconnected and have the motor almost ready to come out. I just have to deal with the exhaust, unbolt the shift linkage, pull PS lines, remove the mounts and pull the motor. The front bumper is still on as the last bolt I got to was completely rounded off (assuming by PO). I tried to start pulling wires but I'm not sure if I'm going to get the lighting harness or not. :\
Ok, so the everything is here. Well, almost...
I'm starting to feel like I'm getting in over my head here. I need a Mk3 wiring diagram and about 5 friends. The old motor still isn't out, the front bumper is stuck on the car, the new motor needs more than I thought I would (serp belt, oil, filter, other sh!t). Need to grab a thermoswitch from the junkyard. Looks like another case of seems easier than it is...
What do I do about the FCM? Bypass it? Hide it somewhere else? Any tips on pulling the wiring harness? I'm leaving the lighting but I need the Mk3 wiring for the fans so that should be fun (they're in the same loom as lighting).
*EDIT: found one online. So could you guys recommend the easiest way to go about dealing with all this wiring. I f*cking HATE automotive wiring. It just looks so daunting that it is disheartening and demotivating...
Last edited by ShotgunFacelift; 11-06-2011 at 01:59 AM.
Have almost the whole engine harness out, but there are 2 wires going into the fuse box area. Any thoughts as to what they are/what they go to? I'm working without a Bentley (I know, I know) and just trying to pull the engine harness while leaving the lighting. Also, how did you guys go about wiring up the ABA with an OBD2 harness? Where did you put your ECU and FCM?
Sorry for the 20 questions, I'm pretty much working blind here...
Disregard my last post. Here is where I'm at (cross-post from other ABA swap thread):
Super-specific question here...
OBD2 ABA going into CE2 Mk2. I'm keeping the lighting harness but replacing the engine harness and fan wiring (Mk3 thermoswitch on Mk2 radiator and fans) with Mk3 wiring. No A/C whatsoever. I'm in the process of pulling out the wiring harness from the engine bay and have the whole harness to the ECU taken out. Which wires going to the fuse box need to come out and do the Mk3 plugs just go in the same locations? What (if anything ) needs to be jumped? I'm just trying to get the bare minimum to get the car running. I have a Mk2 Bentley at my disposal but no Mk3
Any help is appreciated.
Just so people know, there is absolutely no need to rewire your cars when doing this swap. All you have to do is rework the Fuel Injector Harness(20 mins) and you are all set. Change your distributor window(20 mins) and i will fire up. If you want to run ISV just plumb it into the intake and call it good. There are way too many people changing wiring. This swap is the easiest swap ever(not ****ting on people with questions, seriously) and there is no need to complicate it. Its all plug and play. The swap should take an experienced guy 5 to 6 hours if they have removed an engine in a MK2 before. Anyone needs info on how to wire OBD1 ABAin MK2 PM me!
This isn't a thread about ABA swapping with stock Mk2 wiring though . It's about how to swap an ABA into anything.
Digi-2 is acceptible, but for the most part, the wiring is brittle, old, and none of the connectors were weather-sealed...so any not in a permanently-snow-free climate are going to be less than perfect.
Me personally, I would (and am going to) run the ABA OBD1 wiring. It's a 4-wire job (two switched 12v, one 12v constant, and the three grounds on the front of the block), so it's simple to do. I'm swapping it into a Mk1, so no CE2 to make it plug and play...but 4 wires aren't really that hard to work with .
1984 Volvo 244 DL...with carb.
i have a 86 golf that im doing a 2.0 swap form a 97 jetta and i need to know how to wire it up with the extra fuse box????? i got the old engine pulled in about 3hrs and got the new one in with no problem. just looking for a friend to help out on this one
This happens because the ecu does not see vehicle speed. That wire needs to see vehicle speed. W1 is an output from the electronic speedometer of mk3. If you use mk2 cluster you need to find other way. Ive heard something about mfa cluster or possibly a chip
Prime example of why it is a decent idea to keep the MK2 harness and comp and retrofit the fuel rail wiring and the distributor. Change wheel inside the distributor and you are good to go. Super simple
Believe me...If it has wheels or an engine I can blow it up!