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THE OFFICIAL X-FLOW SWAP POST!!!!!!

551K views 2K replies 370 participants last post by  syncrogti 
#1 ·
There are alot of vortexers looking for info on the X-Flow swap. I was in the same boat before doing mine, so I've decided to make an offfical detailed post about it.
Here is the basic info of what I started with.
1995 OBD1 X-Flow motor (no doner car) $200
The motor was basic no alternator or tensioners.I had to buy/borrow/ and steal alot of parts. go with the buy and borrow methods if your not confident in your ability to steal

What I needed
Alternator (Must be A3) $200
power steering pump and bracket (MUST BE OFF OF AN A3) $20
Water pump bracket (MUST BE A3) $Free
A/C Delete pully (I ditched the A/C) $16
MAF ($50 for both Coil, and MAF)
Coil
New spark plug wires (A2 wirers wont work) $78
Wire harness (engine and fuel rail) get the VAG harness if you can but its not necessary. $150
Gaskets (might as well)
38 inch V belt for the alternator. If you do the A/C delete use this belt! It wont fit exactly but it will stretch on. 38.5 will fit good for about 4 days then it will touch, put the 38 on and let it stretch. beleive me I have 60 dollars worth of belts in my car that I have to return. $20
ECU Stolen (sorry ma!)
General notes
Radiator: You can use the stock radiator with this setup. eliminate the long tube from the overflow bulb to the upper radiator and get the one from the A3 that goes from the back of the block to the overflow bulb. simply cap off the open end on the radiator
Buy a clutch: You might as well go ahead and do this while its out. get a flywheel too if you can I bought mine from qualityvwparts.com. I love it!
wiring: This is where the problems are, when the old harness goes out and the new one goes in there are only 4 or so harnesses that are being switched. when that is done there will not be enough power to the comp to make it power up and run the car you will need to tap into some power supplies, Ill post up later and tell you what color they are
Also, there will be some wires that you wont use hook up everything else that you know of. again this is one of those things that I will have to get back to you on I do know this off the top of my head:
1. use the alternator wires from your a3 (red and a little blue) place a small slide on terminal on the end of the old herness and stick it onto the BOTTOM pin of the alternator simply cut thesmall blue wire on the A3 HArness.
2. there is also a singl red/black wire next to the blue alternator wire on the new harness. put a spade termainal into the single harness and connect it to the starter, this is your starter turn on wire.
The downpipe
I have a 1992 GTI 8V I used the downpipe that came with my car and the exhaust mani fron the new engine no spacer was needed to make this work, maybe thats only an issue for CIS cars. Im not sure but Im just happy that I didnt have to buy one.
Ill update this as I remember if there are any questions email me or IM me and Ill include them into this post. HAVE FUN!!!

Here is the link to the pictures of the swap. Feel free to look at my other albums while your in there





Modified by X-FlowA2 at 4:07 PM 6-30-2003
 
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#1,747 ·
Bonesaw, or anyone else for that matter, do you have any insight on this? I posted it in the mk2 forum to no avail.

I haven't had any issues with the VSS since my swap 3 years ago, it's an OBD1 engine with the stock AUG trans and Mk2 cluster. The cluster's hall sender is wired right to the ECU. It goes right up to redline at reasonable speeds.

However, I found myself out in the middle of nowhere last week and thought it the perfect opportunity for a top speed run. I was disappointed when the ECU killed the fun at 108 mph / 5400 RPM, with 1000 RPM to go. Is this expected behavior, or do I have something hooked up incorrectly?
 
#1,751 ·
Are you really advocating running an ABA on Digifant just because I have a loose wire? Motronic offers better throttle response, drivability, responsiveness to upgrades, diagnostic capabilities, and emissions. What are the benefits of Digifant compared to Motronic beside the fact that it's already in the car?

Of course the method you suggest is feasible, but you're leaving a lot on the table for very little savings of effort.
 
#1,759 ·
I need some help please. I will post permenant good pics in exchange.

OBD2 aba into ce2 91 Jetta

I need to know what to splice or connect in this pic. 30/30b to Y or something right?


Then I have already fused this to get it to crank, so good there, right?


Also, what is this and do I need it?




:thumbup:
 
#1,767 ·
Sorry, I have went thru so many threads and just confused myself even more. Trying to distinguish the differences between obd1 wiring and obd2 into ce2. I really apreciate the help. I was going to IM you for help but saw you online.

:laugh::thumbup: I might have more Q's tomorrow.
 
#1,771 ·
****. So... what exactly does the D8 to E2 jump do? Do I need that to make it actually run?

Also, I have verified switched ign power to ECU pin 23 but the constant power to pin 54 is hiding from me.
Pin 54 on the ECU side is a solid red wire.. but I cannot find it on the fuse box side. Does it change to red/blue maybe?

Can you tell me where to locate pin 54 on the fuse box side and where to connect it to constant power?
 
#1,775 · (Edited)
cyl 1 at TDC, cam sprocket(dot) at O.T on plastic timing cover near valve cover. distributor rotor pointed to cyl 1 which is marked on the dizzy with a fine line notched into the aluminum housing. use cyl1 on cap as a reference point and look for the mark on the dizzy. you will need someone to watch the rotor and maybe even hold it for you as u slide the timing belt on to ensure none of these settings move. if you follow this exactly, your motor will be timed mechanically, and distributor timing set to 0D BTDC. good luck:thumbup:
P.S check your current set up against what i just said before your rip it apart again.
 
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