I need some wiring help! I swapped in a 94 obd I into my 91 gti and the sh*t won't start! I can start it if I jump it at the starter, but it won't turn over with the key.
I've searched the tex and come to the conclusion that for CIS-E cars, the best bet is to use the ABA block and the original head. Otherwise, extensive wiring and other work is needed.
I'll be installing a '96 ABA block with my 85 GTI head. From what I understand, this is all I need to do the work. Please confirm, or add info. that I'm unaware of..
1.) ABA block
2.) 85 GTI head
3.) Distributor adapter for GTI dist. + 2.0 dist. gear
4.) PVC Block of plate for front of block.
5.) Use the ABA exhaust manifold and downpipe.
6.) 2.0 16v clutch
7.) Techtonics Head gasket
8.) ABA timing belt
9.) Mod. front stress bar for clearance
If there is anything I'm missing for this swap, please give me some input.
The engine is arriving in about a week so I want to be ready to hammer this out (wait, will I need a hammer as well... )
Quote, originally posted by d'sdub » I'm working on a 91' GTI. The powertrain, harness and ECU are installed. I can get the engine to turn over, but I have no fuel. I was told that the wiring to the ECM was just a matter of plugging the new connections in where the old ones were. What am I missing? I already missed waterfest, and I don't want to miss the Bugout. Any suggestions?
I'm having similar problems! You need to use an mk3 fuel pump relay. Good luck
there is a anti theft short to the starter made into the wiring harness on aba's i cant remember what color it is but it is a two prong female plug with heavy gauge wiring. put a fuse in it, that should fix your problem with the starter not woring with the switch. also the fuel pump will not come on unless the engine is being started.
Quote, originally posted by volksport1987 » there is a anti theft short to the starter made into the wiring harness on aba's i cant remember what color it is but it is a two prong female plug with heavy gauge wiring. put a fuse in it, that should fix your problem with the starter not woring with the switch. also the fuel pump will not come on unless the engine is being started.
One wire is red with a black stripe and the other is just red. I had a hell of a time figuring this out.
Well I got the engine and tranny in today... it's on a slant, higher on the passenger side then the drivers. Any one else have this issue in a MKII? Hood clears the evap canister connection by about the width of a finger. Im using the MKII subfram and mounts.
Second, I don't have A/C. Is there a surp belt small enough on the market to go from the crank just to the alt?
I just figured I would get in on this as well. Here is the x-flow I am working on right now. Its for my sisters '89 coupe. It's a relatively motor low mileage from a local wrecker . We decided to tear the head off to make sure everything is ok. While at it we decided to clean everything up as well. It's got all new seals, gaskets, techtonics valve springs and 268 cam. Still need to get the alternator for it and adapt the throttle switches since we'll be running digifant. It will be paired up with a 4k tranny and a lightened flywheel.
I have another x-flow with a neuspeed supercharger ready to go in my '89 golf. That project has been put of until the winter. It's sitting under the sheet in the picture.
i wanted to post this.may not be what everyone thinks id the way to go about this but i thought it was a clean way to solve an obd2 swap issue and i have had no adverse issues as far as the way it runs no torque or hp losses as far as i can tell and if so i relly don't care
"IF you know more than I do then WHY did you ask me in the first place!"
glad to see alot more a2 crossflows coming out good work fellas. I haven't kept up on this post in a while and it is pretty far back since i last posted....Did anyone ever give a really good/clear exsplaination on wiring the tach? been about 2+ years for me and i haven't had a tach working yet if anyone can take pics /be very decriptive as to what it is that needs to be done to get it to work I am not good with all this wiring stuff at all.
P.S. if anyone needs any ABA parts just send me an im with what you need i can get just about anything for the aba
Quote, originally posted by ALpHaMoNk_VW » P.S. if anyone needs any ABA parts just send me an im with what you need i can get just about anything for the aba
I am gonna need pullies to remove the A/C and P/W steering
is there a vendor for these ? aluminum by chance ????
still curious about the VR6 H2O pump pulley mentioned above
The non a/c water pump pulley part number for the ABA is 028121031k, its about $15 from the dealer. The Vr6 parts number is very almost exact except the k is replaced with an a (021121031a) so it should work as well.
Gotcha, I refer to it as the idle stabilizer so it didn't ring a bell right away. You want to use your existing 1.8 unit.
Quote, originally posted by d'sdub » I was talking about the Idle Air Control valve. Do I use the 2.0L or the unit from the 1.8L? There's a 3-pin connect on the 2.0L and a 2-pin on the 1.8L TPS. Where dose the 3rd lead connect?
hey, does anyone know what strut bar (autotech, omp, eibach???) will work for a mk2 with a crossflow swap. I need one for my jetta. I have the mk3 subframe (tilts the motor forward a littlee) and no a/c soo they are no lines in the back to worry about. anybody know???????????
Hey volksport... You're not afraid of running the VR serp pulley with no AC? I put that pulley on my xflow, but only because the AC compressor is right there and I know it keeps the belt on the water pump... I'm also working on a G60 now. It's got the AC removed and I'm removing power steering... so I need a serp pulley for the water pump. Just real scared to use the smooth one. Only other options I see are to A: pay bahn brenner 160? for the euro G60 ribbed serp pulley? or B: have a pulley made locally. Anyone know of any other options? Thanks
no, not afraid really. well i never really woried about it. ive got three xflow swaps under my belt and two are still on the road. both using the vr water pump pulley. mine has never had a problem and it has over 10,000 miles since the install. oh and the first swap i did (pictured above) got totaled thats the one thats not on the road.
The the guys wanting to use digifant....
I finally got the throttle switches worked out this weekend... Picked up
a spare set of switches at the wreckers so I could get it done with the
engine out. The idle switch bracket is just a piece
of 1/8 aluminum angle. I tapped one hole into the intake manifold... Turns out
my location was a bit off and the head of the 1/4-20 button-head i used hit
the throttle stop screw... I ended up shortening the stop screw a tiny bit ,
fits great now. The full throttle set-up may not be the prettiest but its
sturdy and effective as well. I used a part of the bracket that came with
the switch and some flat stock I had lying around.... The black spacers are
There also a shot. belt set-up. I used the existing alt
bracket that had the a/c compressor. When I tried to use a non ac belt it
was too short so I asked for one 2 inches longer at Pep Boys. Looks to fit
BTW, to the person concerned the serpentine belt slipping off. The pulley I am using came on non-ac cars 2.0 from the factory. I wouldn't worry about slippage.
Modified by Kierowca at 7:04 PM 8-31-2003
well, over the last few days, I have been moving my crossflow form my 4 door jetta over to my coupe. Today was the day to install the new wiring. I had the entire engine up and running in the 4 door (92) for about 4-5 years now, so I know it all worked.
My only issue with the wiring is that in my old INTERIOR harness, there were 2 more wires going into the fuse block than there are in my coupe (91). In the U1 plug (again, this is the interior harness, meaning there is a slight difference in how the cars were wired) there is an extra wire and one of the others is in a different location.
The green wire in U1 is in a different spot, and there is also a green/white stripe wire in this plug, which doesn't exit in my new car (coupe) I believe this plug is for the instrument cluster, but I do not know what it does. Also, the maiin reason I am concerned with this, is that there was a single wire tapped into the grren wire in U1 that went to a terminal on the coil. It's been so long since this engine was done that I don't remember what they are for (tach signal maybe?)
If anyone could look at there U1 plug and show me what it looks like (which color wires/which locations, etc) that would be awesome. I am just tryin to figure out whether this s going to cause a problem, or if I can just plug it in and forget about it
Hey guys...I need an official Neuspeed (or other CARB legal air intake) for my car to pass smog with the smog ref. He didnt like the K&N on a stick that much...So which one do I use? A2 P-Flo, or A3?
Also, can anybody tell me anything about my AA code ECU? Is it california? Is there a list somewhere?
Hey I just aquired a new <10k crossflow block and head no valve cover or intake manifold I just finished my super blingy 16v 2.0 swap and wonder if theres a market for a very unused crossflow or shall I buy anouther dub and drop it in what do you think?