DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP

[cooper2069]

where are the pics of what you do with the n75 and dv?

[Slimjimmn]

and

[a7x411]

so i did this delete and got the plug and play resistors from postreleased, i got them on the n249 and n112 connectors but the connector for the sai pump is way bigger, do they have a premade plug and play resistor for this one or doesn anyone know who does have one or do you just have to simply solder in a resistor?
also is this the connector that causes the improper airflow cel?

[04_BMP_GLI]

So, I started to get rid of some of the PVC lines and the 90* elbow that connects to the oil filter housing was busted and I'm not sure if some of it actually went into the oil filter housing or not. Should I drain the oil?? I need to do an oil change anyway. Just worried about any debris from that elbow being in the engine.

[Slimjimmn]

http://www.intengineering.com/1-8t-s...-resistor.html
use this for the SAI pump.
If you delete any of the secondary air components it will set the incorrect flow code.

[mhcooper84]

does it have to be a 330ohm 10watt? radio shack only had 100w 10ohm will that work?

[speed51133!]

BTw. You can string resistors end to end and add up the resistance. So for 330 do 3 100 resistors and 3 10s or any iteration.

Btw again you don't really need to resistor the pump.

[mhcooper84]

does it matter the watt?

[toby lawrence]

so i did this delete and got the plug and play resistors from postreleased, i got them on the n249 and n112 connectors but the connector for the sai pump is way bigger, do they have a premade plug and play resistor for this one or doesn anyone know who does have one or do you just have to simply solder in a resistor?
also is this the connector that causes the improper airflow cel?

There is no premade connector for this. You also don't need a resistor... the improper flow code is going to be there until you get it coded out by a tuner.

does it have to be a 330ohm 10watt? radio shack only had 100w 10ohm will that work?

Don't even bother with a resistor. Just tape up the connector to keep it sealed. Honestly - there is no functional need for a resistor on the SAI pump connector and you're just wasting money if you buy one.

[mhcooper84]

Im talking about for the n249

[groggory]

Im talking about for the n249

330 ohm, 1 watt

p = v^2/r = 14.4^2/330 = 628 mW

But honestly, go buy the pre-made resistor connectors. They are very nice and seal things up beautifully. Keep corrosion out of your electrical connectors.

[04_BMP_GLI]

I have an AWP engine.

Can I remove the hardlines form the combi valve and leave the valve on the block? I'm not going to delete the SAI. I already have the N249 and PCV **** ripped out.

[groggory]

I have an AWP engine.

Can I remove the hardlines form the combi valve and leave the valve on the block? I'm not going to delete the SAI. I already have the N249 and PCV **** ripped out.

I don't understand your question...

With your deletes, the hardlines run lines for the EVAP and SAI. If you delete the hard lines you'll have to replace them with new vac lines for those two systems.

With that said, yes you can remove the hard lines if you replace them with new vac lines.

[04_BMP_GLI]

The hardlines that I guess are bolted to combi valve, I can wiggle them like they're just sitting behind the combi valve and not welded to it. Can I remove the combi valve, remove those hardlines then put the combi valve back on the block? Wasn't planning on removing the sai or evap, just the PCV and N249 stuff.


edit:
Also, if I leave the combi valve on, what do I do to this hose that's on it that connects to one of the hardlines? Just cap it I assume?

[ziggieboi]

The hardlines that I guess are bolted to combi valve, I can wiggle them like they're just sitting behind the combi valve and not welded to it. Can I remove the combi valve, remove those hardlines then put the combi valve back on the block? Wasn't planning on removing the sai or evap, just the PCV and N249 stuff.


edit:
Also, if I leave the combi valve on, what do I do to this hose that's on it that connects to one of the hardlines? Just cap it I assume?

Yes, the valve is attached by the two bottom bolts, not welded. I don't remember the hard lines even being tied into the valve. I think they are just mounted on the coolant flange and are so close that it may be wiggling the valve. Remove the lower screw on the coolant flange and the hard lines should come loose. I think if you look back there the hard lines may be bolted down to the bracket attached to the valve, the bolt is behind the wires coming off the spark plugs. You have to disconnect the two clips and push back the wires to access the bolt.

[a7x411]

So basically what I'm getting from all this is if you remove your SAI, there's really no way to pass emissions?

[EaTn RiCe]

unless you get unitronic,gonzo or eurodyne I believe. If im wrong im sure others will chime in.

[04_BMP_GLI]

Yes, the valve is attached by the two bottom bolts, not welded. I don't remember the hard lines even being tied into the valve. I think they are just mounted on the coolant flange and are so close that it may be wiggling the valve. Remove the lower screw on the coolant flange and the hard lines should come loose. I think if you look back there the hard lines may be bolted down to the bracket attached to the valve, the bolt is behind the wires coming off the spark plugs. You have to disconnect the two clips and push back the wires to access the bolt.

Yup, figured it out, forgot to update my post. The hard lines were bolted to the Combi valve. Unbolted them, removed them and put the Combi valve back on the engine. Capped off the line that was running to the hard line.

Deleted the PCV, EVAP and N249. A few of lines for the PCV system were broken. Car runs much smoother now.

[travis_gli]

So basically what I'm getting from all this is if you remove your SAI, there's really no way to pass emissions?

unless you get unitronic,gonzo or eurodyne I believe. If im wrong im sure others will chime in.

It's such a grey area since almost every county in every state has a different way of testing emissions. In all honesty its a complete sh!tshow. Probably the easiest way to test is to run an emissions delete file and take your car to get inspected without removing all of the components. This way you will just have to reflash if you fail.

Maestro is another I believe that allows for emissions deletes.

[ziggieboi]

Yup, figured it out, forgot to update my post. The hard lines were bolted to the Combi valve. Unbolted them, removed them and put the Combi valve back on the engine. Capped off the line that was running to the hard line.

Deleted the PCV, EVAP and N249. A few of lines for the PCV system were broken. Car runs much smoother now.

I did a head rebuild and started putting all the damn hoses on when one was completely busted, after going to napa to unearth their cost for a new hose ($130.00), I decided to come in here and see what i could find. After reading up on a few posts I realized how much time I wasted and said phuck it, and pulled out all the BS. Saved me time and $$$$. Fun stuff!

[a7x411]

i guess its time to put the sai system back on, time for inspection =(

[kesh808]

Hey my car is doing this weird thing now after doing the complete delete. It feels like the gas is cutting out. If I leave my foot on the gas to speed up, or even just going a consistent speed, the car will lose all power, almost like I took it out of gear, and then the power will jerk back in. The power goes away for just about a second or two and then returns but it keeps doing this. It's like the engine is kind of sputtering. Sometimes it cuts out all the way and the car dies. Does anybody have any idea what could be going on?

[Richardsa4]

I have a Unitronic BT 630cc file running my car right now with the only delete being the cat. I'd love to clear up the clutter and removed the rest of these emissions. Will I need to send the ecu in to have it modified for the remaining emission deletes or could I just follow this process and be in good shape ?

[speed51133!]

if you bought the uni tune new from an authorized dealer and it is within the first year of purchase, i am pretty sure it is 50$ to send it in and have this done.

if after 1 year, it is 100$.

if you are NOT the original buyer, you will need the original buyer's name and contact uni and have the license transfered for 150$, then you may request a change.

if you dont have the oridinal buyer's name, you can get luckey with the vin of the chassis, if the tuner recorded it in the sale. you should be bale to get the vin off a vag com scan of the ecu.

[Richardsa4]

I bought the car from a good friend of mine, so I am not the original owner. Unitronic had informed me of the $150 fee when I called about a separate question. I was just curious if I could use the current file with properly deleted emissions or if I should just pay all their fees and get the file changed accordingly before deleting anything.

[Slimjimmn]

bump for finally removing my secondary air pump and that long ass hose. Wow so much room now without secondary air and n249!

kept evap though.

[speed51133!]

ok so im not gonna read all 1000000 pages. ive read the first post and first few pages, and the last few pages....

i just got around to finally removing all the evap crap. i also removed the evap pump in the passanger fender wheel well.....

did you all leave it plugged in? i just got a CEL, will scan it tonight...i was going to resistor it but it is not a 2 wire plug, almost positive it was three.....and did not want to guess....

[18T_BT]

ok so im not gonna read all 1000000 pages. ive read the first post and first few pages, and the last few pages....

i just got around to finally removing all the evap crap. i also removed the evap pump in the passanger fender wheel well.....

did you all leave it plugged in? i just got a CEL, will scan it tonight...i was going to resistor it but it is not a 2 wire plug, almost positive it was three.....and did not want to guess....

ugh, unless your 1.8T is different than every other N80 plug: http://www.intengineering.com/postre...ngle-plug.html

[DustyVW337]

I had not seen that plug before. What a clever idea!

[vr6_nocorrectway]

done the diy now dv makes whip like noise when letting off of heavy boost. but not at 5 lbs. cant find any vacuum leaks either. i have not done any resistors yet. could that throw it off?

[speed51133!]

ugh, unless your 1.8T is different than every other N80 plug: http://www.intengineering.com/postre...ngle-plug.html

sorry..that is 2 prong ,and who said anythign about N80?!

I am talking about the evap pump that is behind the wheel liner. You have to jack the car up, remove the wheel well liner, and it is behind the liner. It is the pump for testing the system, and the pump is THREE pronged, NOT TWO......sorry to be annoyed, but you are annoyed at me for assuming something incorrect.

http://www.jimellisaudiparts.com/sho...ssembly=754162

it is item 1 in the above link, and all the garbage that goes with it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/99-06-VW-Gol...-/290639604503

the above link has one for sale on ebay, and you can CLEARLY see the three prongged plug

[Slimjimmn]

you will have evap codes unless the evap is deleted from the ecm programming. same as secondary air. pcv and n249 is ok as long as resistored.

[speed51133!]

I have all emissions deletes...

[Slimjimmn]

is the computer flashed for emissions delete?
Doesnt matter if you have resistors in the solenoid plugs or not, The programming still sees that there is incorrect secondary and evap flow.

[speed51133!]

Yes the magical Ecu box was sent out to santa's workshop for emissions deletes.
Like I just said. I have emissions deletes.