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Thread: DIY: Cleaning up Engine bay...Removing SAI, N249, PCV, EVAP

  1. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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    03-13-2007 12:38 PM #71
    Quote, originally posted by O2VW1.8T »

    mine stayed the same, but the dv opens up much better...
    safe to assume the reason would be bc your supplying vacuum to 3 components versus 50?
    Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
    '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
    '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
    '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
    '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

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    03-14-2007 01:05 PM #72
    heres a pic i put together so people can see what to remove when they do the sai..

    02 GTi 1.8T haldex'd w/35r-SOLD 7.3@102mph 27psi on 93 octane--04 A4 1.8T converted to AWD also- SOLD--'11 JSW Tdi 6speed Manual- Gone--
    13' BMW 335i M-sport EBII

  3. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:08 PM #73
    Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine.

  4. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:22 PM #74
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »
    Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine.
    i have a question for Mike or 02VW1.8t, i feel it belongs here instead of another post since it deals with this stuff...

    Anyway, question is, The Vac resi on top #4 going to the hard pipe, and the line that came off a hard pipe to the DV. Where does this hard pipe hook up at in the front? Bc i have them capped on the other end ( i removed the Vac Res and ran a new line for DV), and theres really no reason the have a soft line attached to the other side if its capped and can remove the soft line feeding it.

    I think Mike had a pic with the lines color coded with outputs. Im at work so its probably in this post but Pics are blocked from websites like photobucket, imageshack, and such like myspace... damn govt comp.

    Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
    '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
    '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
    '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
    '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

  5. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:27 PM #75


  6. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:29 PM #76
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »
    Just owned Gov't comp/filter servers

    edited for you thanks Mike you went around it unfiltered. So i can study now and do that tonight.

    Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
    '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
    '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
    '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
    '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

  7. Member mikerosoft's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:44 PM #77
    I wish the pictures still worked on the first page.

  8. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:46 PM #78
    I'll get em back for ya guys.

  9. Member mikerosoft's Avatar
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    03-14-2007 01:59 PM #79
    Awesome. I've been wanting to do this for so long! Maybe add a 'materials needed' part?

  10. 03-14-2007 11:29 PM #80
    so you can remove the blue balls

  11. Member j0hnnybmx's Avatar
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    03-15-2007 12:45 AM #81
    i reploaded all the pictured to a more reliable server.. i woud add them, but i can't edit savs post.. i'm going to do evap removal this weekend, since i helped sav do his... so i'll post pictures and add the writeup to this thread...

    EDIT: here the pictures are in the order that they were taken.. so you can kinda see what's going on.

    http://thefallingbrand.com/diy1.html


    Modified by j0hnnybmx at 9:47 PM 3-14-2007


  12. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-15-2007 12:48 AM #82
    Yea EVAP is pretty easy...in short, pull the vac line off the TB, follow it to the fender area and unplug the harness. Remove your fenderliner and unbolt the blue balls and pull the vac line. Unclip the lines that go down into that plastic cover thing. Get under the car and start unclipping the white plastic lines all the way to the back of the car and just unclip them from their connectors by the fuel filter area. Then pull the lines out of the engine bay from underneath the car. Voila!

  13. 03-15-2007 07:16 AM #83
    EVAP is easy to dicth, just need a resistor now to stop the CEL.

  14. Member .skully.'s Avatar
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    03-15-2007 02:19 PM #84
    Quote, originally posted by j0hnnybmx »
    SAVwKO and j0hnnybmx are the **** for real. VWVortex is not that cool

    true that except that you and savko arent the **** for real


    Modified by .skully. at 2:20 PM 3-15-2007

    Quote Originally Posted by absoluteczech View Post
    keep it on topic sir
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  15. 03-15-2007 03:24 PM #85
    wish i wasnt moving to california. i'd rip ALL that stuff out...

  16. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-21-2007 04:22 PM #86
    Bump...got the pics working again and added a few notes to the OP.

  17. Member .skully.'s Avatar
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    03-26-2007 02:10 PM #87
    you need to finish this savko seeing how you have nothing better to do in class for he next 3 hours
    Quote Originally Posted by absoluteczech View Post
    keep it on topic sir
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  18. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 02:13 PM #88
    I'll see what I can do. Johnny's got some pics floatin around I'll see what I can do with them.

  19. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 02:38 PM #89
    EVAP removal done. PCV maybe this week?

  20. Member ginster vr6's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 03:49 PM #90
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »
    PCV maybe this week?

    Please do


  21. Member Levi20AE's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 05:59 PM #91
    So just to clearify. After doing all of this you may end-up with a few CELs but if you install the resiters you will still pass all the readiness codes? I can live with clearing CELs every once in a while but i still gotta pass OBDII emissions.
    for a good DIY
    Will MIG or TIG for $$$, , or trade.

    "What good is a beautiful dame with a Rolls-Royce frame and Volkswagen brain?"

  22. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 06:39 PM #92
    The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.

  23. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 07:06 PM #93
    What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time.

    Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?


    Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007

    Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
    '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
    '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
    '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
    '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

  24. 03-26-2007 07:10 PM #94
    Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL.

  25. Member Levi20AE's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 08:15 PM #95
    I run no cat now i just use the spacer and havent had any issues so i may try just unplugging the SAI and putting in the resister before i remove anything
    Will MIG or TIG for $$$, , or trade.

    "What good is a beautiful dame with a Rolls-Royce frame and Volkswagen brain?"

  26. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 08:55 PM #96
    Quote, originally posted by theswoleguy »
    What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time.

    Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?


    Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007

    No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.

    And incorrect flow means air.


  27. Member theswoleguy's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 08:59 PM #97
    and you dont know how to do this bc?
    Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
    '01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
    '03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
    '04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
    '13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.

  28. 03-26-2007 09:01 PM #98
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »

    No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.

    And incorrect flow means air.


    U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought

  29. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 09:06 PM #99
    Quote, originally posted by theswoleguy »
    and you dont know how to do this bc?

    Bc I've searched for an answer and the one I found didn't work on 1.8T's or something. I wish man...then I'd be the coolest evar.

    Quote, originally posted by UntouchableGTI »

    U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought

    You mean using the spacer? That trick is to back it out of the exhaust flow so you don't get the catalyst below threshold code. I would have to assume that backing it out of an "improper flow" would be the opposite of helping it out. I did think of that, but never tried it. If anyone wants to give it a shot before I do, do it. However I don't expect it to work.

    What I tried doing was lowering the startup/warmup fuel enrichment via LW so it would be rich enough to start but leaner so it'd be hotter. I never got it working.


  30. Member .skully.'s Avatar
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    03-26-2007 09:56 PM #100
    Quote, originally posted by PhilW »
    Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL.

    are these the actual resistors that are needed?

    Quote Originally Posted by absoluteczech View Post
    keep it on topic sir
    501whp MK6 GTI Build Thread
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  31. Banned SAVwKO's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 10:00 PM #101
    Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.

  32. 03-26-2007 10:10 PM #102
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »
    Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.

    or radioshack

  33. Member burtondk12's Avatar
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    03-26-2007 10:14 PM #103
    thanks for the write up, amazing, im gona do some of the stuff this weekend
    CT / tristate suspension/ airride installs. pm me for details

  34. Member j0hnnybmx's Avatar
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    03-27-2007 12:29 AM #104
    Quote, originally posted by UntouchableGTI »

    or radioshack

    werd.. i still need to put resistors in all my stuff. i don't really care about having a CEL, so i just haven't gotten around to it.. but i figure the, less codes being thrown, the better, eh?


  35. 03-29-2007 09:01 PM #105
    Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO »
    The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.

    Came up with another idea for this problem, relocate the 02 and bung closer to the turbo ( up more on the dp ) that way its just hotter in general , and if a cel throw because of that, do the spacer mod to that. Im goin to try it in a week or 2 ill let u know how it goes

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