#71
safe to assume the reason would be bc your supplying vacuum to 3 components versus 50?
Quote, originally posted by O2VW1.8T »
mine stayed the same, but the dv opens up much better...
Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
'01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
'03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
'04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
'13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.
#72
02 GTi 1.8T haldex'd w/35r-SOLD 7.3@102mph 27psi on 93 octane--04 A4 1.8T converted to AWD also- SOLD--'11 JSW Tdi 6speed Manual- Gone--
13' BMW 335i M-sport EBII
#73
Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine.![]()
#74
i have a question for Mike or 02VW1.8t, i feel it belongs here instead of another post since it deals with this stuff...
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » Just realized all the pics I think are on my buddy's host, not mine. ![]()
Anyway, question is, The Vac resi on top #4 going to the hard pipe, and the line that came off a hard pipe to the DV. Where does this hard pipe hook up at in the front? Bc i have them capped on the other end ( i removed the Vac Res and ran a new line for DV), and theres really no reason the have a soft line attached to the other side if its capped and can remove the soft line feeding it.
I think Mike had a pic with the lines color coded with outputs. Im at work so its probably in this post but Pics are blocked from websites like photobucket, imageshack, and such like myspace... damn govt comp.
Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
'01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
'03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
'04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
'13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.
#76
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » Just owned Gov't comp/filter servers edited for you
thanks Mike you went around it unfiltered. So i can study now and do that tonight.
Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
'01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
'03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
'04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
'13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.
#77
I wish the pictures still worked on the first page.![]()
#79
Awesome. I've been wanting to do this for so long! Maybe add a 'materials needed' part?![]()
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#81
i reploaded all the pictured to a more reliable server.. i woud add them, but i can't edit savs post.. i'm going to do evap removal this weekend, since i helped sav do his... so i'll post pictures and add the writeup to this thread...EDIT: here the pictures are in the order that they were taken.. so you can kinda see what's going on.
http://thefallingbrand.com/diy1.html
Modified by j0hnnybmx at 9:47 PM 3-14-2007
#82
Yea EVAP is pretty easy...in short, pull the vac line off the TB, follow it to the fender area and unplug the harness. Remove your fenderliner and unbolt the blue balls and pull the vac line. Unclip the lines that go down into that plastic cover thing. Get under the car and start unclipping the white plastic lines all the way to the back of the car and just unclip them from their connectors by the fuel filter area. Then pull the lines out of the engine bay from underneath the car. Voila!
#83
EVAP is easy to dicth, just need a resistor now to stop the CEL.
#84
Quote, originally posted by j0hnnybmx » SAVwKO and j0hnnybmx are the **** for real. VWVortex is not that cool true that except that you and savko arent the **** for real
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Modified by .skully. at 2:20 PM 3-15-2007
#85
wish i wasnt moving to california. i'd rip ALL that stuff out...![]()
#86
Bump...got the pics working again and added a few notes to the OP.![]()
#87
you need to finish this savko seeing how you have nothing better to do in class for he next 3 hours![]()
#88
I'll see what I can do. Johnny's got some pics floatin around I'll see what I can do with them.![]()
#90
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » PCV maybe this week? Please do
#91
So just to clearify. After doing all of this you may end-up with a few CELs but if you install the resiters you will still pass all the readiness codes? I can live with clearing CELs every once in a while but i still gotta pass OBDII emissions.for a good DIY
Will MIG or TIG for $$$,, or trade.
"What good is a beautiful dame with a Rolls-Royce frame and Volkswagen brain?"
#92
The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.
#93
What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time.Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?
Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007
Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
'01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
'03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
'04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
'13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.
#94
Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL.
#95
I run no cat now i just use the spacer and havent had any issues so i may try just unplugging the SAI and putting in the resister before i remove anything
Will MIG or TIG for $$$,, or trade.
"What good is a beautiful dame with a Rolls-Royce frame and Volkswagen brain?"
#96
Quote, originally posted by theswoleguy » What if your catless, the 2ndary O2 will be heated almost instantly well ok not that fast but a lot quicker think it would still toss it? If you have a test pipe in you will notice the SAI kicks on for a lot shorter time. Also the incorrect flow code, does that mean air flow or current flow? if its current a diode might work right?
Modified by theswoleguy at 7:07 PM 3-26-2007No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.
And incorrect flow means air.
#97
and you dont know how to do this bc?![]()
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Project GTi-R:. '04 R32 Chassis w/ 1.8t transplant in the werks
'01 Audi TTQ Roadster: QED motor, Pag 35R vband, spec twin, enormous amount of go fast
'03 GTI: Gutted, Parted & Transplanted
'04 F250 6.0: 72mm turbo, 60 psi stupid fast for 8k lbs, sold to ejg3855
'13 F150 Ecoboost: Ordered, Rec'd, Triple Black, Tow Truck for other Vehicles.
#98
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » No...the amount of air the SAI pump injects into the exhaust is so high that the mixture of air/exhaust is incredibly "lean." The only way around it is hacking into the ECU with VAG and knowing the right readiness code to bypass it altogether.
And incorrect flow means air.
U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought![]()
#99
Quote, originally posted by theswoleguy » and you dont know how to do this bc? ![]()
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Bc I've searched for an answer and the one I found didn't work on 1.8T's or something.
I wish man...then I'd be the coolest evar.
Quote, originally posted by UntouchableGTI »
U can try to do the 02 sensor trick on it to eliminate this problem, it will say its all running correctly and should solve the problem, just a thought![]()
You mean using the spacer? That trick is to back it out of the exhaust flow so you don't get the catalyst below threshold code. I would have to assume that backing it out of an "improper flow" would be the opposite of helping it out. I did think of that, but never tried it. If anyone wants to give it a shot before I do, do it. However I don't expect it to work.
What I tried doing was lowering the startup/warmup fuel enrichment via LW so it would be rich enough to start but leaner so it'd be hotter. I never got it working.
#100
Quote, originally posted by PhilW » Thanks for the updated, i'm gonna buy a load of 330ohm 10 watt resistors this week to sort out my CEL. are these the actual resistors that are needed?
#101
Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.
#102
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » Yes...you can get em from Integrated Engineering I believe.
or radioshack![]()
#103
thanks for the write up, amazing, im gona do some of the stuff this weekend
CT / tristate suspension/ airride installs. pm me for details
#104
Quote, originally posted by UntouchableGTI »
or radioshack![]()
werd.. i still need to put resistors in all my stuff. i don't really care about having a CEL, so i just haven't gotten around to it.. but i figure the, less codes being thrown, the better, eh?
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#105
Quote, originally posted by SAVwKO » The only CEL that will keep popping up is the one for the 2ndary air injection. Even tho you have a resistor on the harness, that resistor has nothing to do with the code thrown. One of the o2 sensors throws it because it sees that the cat isn't being heated up since you don't have a pump on. So, remove everything but the SAI I guess.
Came up with another idea for this problem, relocate the 02 and bung closer to the turbo ( up more on the dp ) that way its just hotter in general , and if a cel throw because of that, do the spacer mod to that. Im goin to try it in a week or 2 ill let u know how it goes![]()