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    Thread: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta

    1. 03-11-2007 01:25 AM #1
      There isn't one in the facts and i thought I'd spend my three spare hours this week doing something constructive. It also clears some space out of my room .

      Things you'll need:
      router with 1/4" straight and flush bits and circle-jig
      power-drill with screw head and 1/8th and 3/8th inch drill bits
      dremel with cutout bits
      non-hardening modeling clay
      coarse thread 1 5/8" drywall screws
      2" long 6-32 threaded screws with nuts - these are at home depot and have a flat head
      small washers
      *maybe* wood glue

      The woofers in question, oem vs aftermarket:

      Step One
      Remove your door pannel. I'm not going to go into detail as I'm sure it's in the mk4 faqs. three screws on the bottom, two behind the door pulls, pull and lift up. Unhook the stuff inside.


      Step Two
      Unhook the plug going to the speaker. Take your power drill and drill out the four rivets holding the OEM speaker to the door. It will pull right out.


      Step Three
      Now were going to build the baffles. Here's the easiest way to do it.

      Take your router and set your jig to 7 1/4" and cut a hole. The circle left over will be 6 3/4" in diameter and the perfect size for the stock door.

      Next, cut the center out of the circle you just made. You'll want to use the setting on your jig for the cutout diameter provided by your speaker manufacturer.

      Next, place your woofer in the rings and use a pencil to mark the cutout holes. Put your woofer aside and take your drill and drill out the holes you just marked.

      Depending on how thick your speakers are, you may need to make two rings per woofer. If you're using 3/4" mdf for your rings, you can stack two rings on top of each other and still have room for the woofer. You can fit a speaker up to 3 1/2" deep behind the OEM door skin doing this. .

      In order to make a double-thick ring read this. If a single ring will suffice, skip this paragraph. Repeat the drilling for the second ring. Apply some wood glue on one of the rings and use the drywall screws to clamp the rings together. Screw them together very tightly! Take a paper towl and wipe up any extra glue seeping out the outside. Depending on your glue and the temperature, the rings could be dry in as little as fifteen minutes.

      Now, take woofer and rotate it so that the second set of holes are evenly spaced between the first set. Drill these holes out. You will not have eight holes drilled in your rings.

      Next, take the 3/8th inch drill bit and very carefully spin the bit at high speed but very lightly touch the wood. This will in effect drill very slightly into the wood, but the bit won't bite and tear the ring apart. You will do this for four of the eight holes. You'll want to go down into the wood about 1/4".

      Finally, drop a washer in the hole. You'll probably have to press down with a screw driver to get it in. Next, put the 6/32 screw and put it through the hole so the head goes in the notches. You'll want to put a flathead bit in the power drill 'cause it's a lot of screwing to do by hand. Take the bolt all the way down.

      (I did these a little out of order becuase I wanted to test-fit everything before doing the full mock-up and write-up. Sorry for the bad pics)

      You'll end up with this:




      Test fit your rings. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the bolts into the stock holes. This is perfectly okay. Feel free to hit the ring

      Step Four
      Take the non-hardeining modeling clay and make a small ring around the woofer hole. This is twofold. First, the clay will absorb vibrations from the woofer. Second, it will make an airtight seal between the rings and the door pannel.


      Step Five
      Put your ring on the door. Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of the door. Push hard on the ring and hand-tighten the nuts on the bolts. Then use a socket inside of the door to fully tighten the nuts. Clay will come out the sides of the rings. This is good. You can smear the clay around a little to smoothen the seals on the inside and outside of the ring. If you're sound deadeing the door, apply the deadener over the clay and over the ring.



      Step Six
      You can now run the wire through the molding. VW was nice enough to use a VERY large mold. Some vehicles I've worked on barely had room for the stock wires, let alone anything aftermarket.

      Push the wires through the door into the inside of the car. It's much easier this way. Even though the molding and the hole inside the car doesn't perfectly line up, if you put your fingers up this little hole and keep feeding speaker wire through, it will come right out inside the car.

      inside the door:

      the molding:

      inside the car:

      You can also take this time to solder the wires to the woofer:

      Step Seven
      Put another layer of clay around the top of the ring. This will seal between the ring and the woofer.

      Step Eight
      You will want to cut the drywall screws down. If you're using a double-ring, you don't have to cut them at all. If using a single-ring, you will want to cut them more than halfway off using a dremmel.

      Screw the woofer in the remaining four holes tightly. Peel away any extra clay that squeezes out.

      Step Nine
      Reattach the stock door pannels, run your wires, and enjoy.



      I hope this has helped a few people wanting to do some mild upgrades to their stock stereo system. If anyone finds any typos, it's 2:30 am, I won't be offended if you point them out.

      Enjoy




      Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:31 AM 3-11-2007


    2. 03-11-2007 01:44 AM #2
      Should go in the DIY. i did one side friday morning and the instructions are dead on. they also sell the speaker brackets for anyone that doesnt want to build the wood parts. http://www.cardomain.com/item/SCOSAVW6 problem areas for me were, taking off the panel that covers the hole (glovebox was being annoying) and drilling the rivets out. (dad didnt charge the drill so i kinda drained it by the 2 rivet ) good job pat

    3. 03-11-2007 01:50 AM #3
      Thank you sir.

      I will forever be a fan of mdf rings because you can make 'em exactly how you need 'em. The wood is also cheaper if you have the tools (or know someone who will let you borrow them).

      I wish I knew an active mod who could put some stuff in the faq. sent IMs to a couple people but nobody responded.


    4. Member JettaGetUpandGo's Avatar
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      03-11-2007 03:16 AM #4
      I bought those Scosche adapter rings posted above, but they were too shallow for my speakers, so now I have 4 of them lying around with no use.

      I wish this DIY was here 24 hours ago when I cut 3/4" MDF rings out with the circle cutter attachment on my Dremel (can't afford a router). I lost count of the number of bits I burned through... I used wood glue to hold the rings together and clamped them until the glue set, I didn't use any screws.

      I also didn't use any clay, but the MDF seemed to hug the door pretty tightly, so maybe I will be ok.

      Pat, are you using anything between the speaker and the door panel to ensure the sound gets out the door like the stock speaker had? I couldn't come up with a creative way to reuse the stock piece. I bought a 3/4" solid foam tube to hot glue to the edge of my speaker to fill the gap, but I haven't used it yet and I'm looking for other ideas that have less of a chance of damaging the speaker.

      Nice DIY,


      Modified by JettaGetUpandGo at 1:21 AM 3-11-2007

      I'm doing work. (Build Thread) | VCDS Scans / Tweaks in the Waukesha / Milwaukee area for $5 or a 12-pk of Mountain Dew

    5. 03-11-2007 03:21 AM #5
      No sir. With the double-ring, the woofers are very close to the stock grill. There really isn't any need - at least in my case.

      You can get mdf rings online. Elemental designs sells them as well as some other places.

      Clamping works, but if you're drilling the holes, might as well use screws so you can use your clamps elsewhere, like on a new carpc case

      The seal between the wood and the door pannel isn't bad. In the case of my doors, however, the previous owner tried to replace the monsoon speakers only to really f-up the metal. With a hammer I was able to straighten them out but the clay was necessary for a proper seal.


    6. Member JettaGetUpandGo's Avatar
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      03-11-2007 03:30 AM #6
      I'm using the double-rings, so my speaker should sit right where yours is. I couldn't tell how much room you had left there in the pictures and I don't have my door panels back on yet (silly tweeters) to look for myself.

      I will definitely keep Elemental Designs for precut rings in mind for the future!

      I'm doing work. (Build Thread) | VCDS Scans / Tweaks in the Waukesha / Milwaukee area for $5 or a 12-pk of Mountain Dew

    7. 03-11-2007 03:34 AM #7
      there's about 1/2" between the grill and woofer. I couldn't get a good pic

    8. 03-13-2007 08:08 PM #8
      le bump.

      I didn't like the adires so I tried others:



    9. 03-13-2007 10:10 PM #9
      Good DIY write-up Pat.

      Makes me want to go put my Kappas in finally.


    10. Member BlackRadon's Avatar
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      03-14-2007 02:19 AM #10
      did you have any problems with the windows going down all the way? i hear they hit, but i might as well ask.

      thanks,
      -James


    11. 03-14-2007 02:26 AM #11
      thats what the spacers are for, to bring the magnet out from the track of the window

    12. 03-14-2007 08:31 AM #12
      Exactly. There is maybe 3/4" of space between the metal and window hanger when it passes by. By using 1 1/2" of space (two rings) you can easily make a lot of room. By using clay, you can get a little bit more space, about 3/8". The woofers I mounted for this guide are 3 3/8" thick and fit both behind the door skin and cleared the window with absolutely no problems.

    13. 03-15-2007 01:53 AM #13
      i left too much slack in the wires to the woofer and when i was rolling the window down, i caught them and unhooked them

    14. Member JettaGetUpandGo's Avatar
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      03-15-2007 03:28 AM #14
      Too much slack? I would think too little slack would cause that to happen. If you rotate the speakers so that you mount them with the terminals at the bottom of the opening, then any extra wire should just lay neatly in the bottom of the door panel below where the window reaches.

      EDIT: I suppose I could see how too much slack could cause that to happen too depending on where the terminals on the speaker are.

      I'm doing work. (Build Thread) | VCDS Scans / Tweaks in the Waukesha / Milwaukee area for $5 or a 12-pk of Mountain Dew

    15. Member BlackRadon's Avatar
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      03-15-2007 03:51 AM #15
      Awesome, i just wanted to make sure thats all, im going to tackle this in the spring. and some with some sound deadening.

      good write up, keep up the good work man.

      -james


    16. 03-16-2007 10:40 AM #16
      Nice post. May I suggest showing us how to change out the tweeters? I'm thinking about installing components in my doors. I feel confident I could handle the 6.5 part now with this DYI, but not too sure about the tweeters.

    17. 03-16-2007 10:51 AM #17
      To be honest, I don't have any compact tweeters. While playing with the blown ones in my doors, I came to a few conclusions about how to get the stock ones out, though.

      Where in pittsburgh are you? I'm 20 minutes up i79 from the downtown area. Perhaps we could add a part II


    18. Member BlackRadon's Avatar
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      03-18-2007 05:07 AM #18
      ^^^ DO IT!! will come in handy when i do it, ahah.

    19. 03-18-2007 09:24 PM #19
      I'm in the South Hills but I work up your way, so getting together at some point shouldn't be a problem.

      Just finished installing everything last night. Gotta sort out what I did, adjust the levels between sub and rest of system and find out why XM unit sounds terrible. Once I do that, I'll see if I'm keeping stock speakers or not. They don't sound as bad as I thought they might so I may keep them. I'd love to pick your brain about car stereos as I've seen a lot of your posts and you seem to really know your stuff. I'll be in touch.


    20. 04-04-2007 10:21 PM #20
      just wondering if you need the baffle for the rear speakers?

    21. Member goldyuk's Avatar
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      04-05-2007 09:59 PM #21
      thanks for the diy
      i am doing this tomorrow, got my amp today
      now the only thing i am wondering about is the tweeters
      i have infinity's im throwing on there, and i just have no clue how to mount them if i drill the stock ones out

      any help guys?

      also, better to mount the cross overs in the trunk or the door?

      thanks!

      03 530i
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    22. 04-06-2007 10:39 AM #22
      great writeup

    23. 04-07-2007 04:31 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by Project A2 JTA »
      they also sell the speaker brackets for anyone that doesnt want to build the wood parts.


      crutchfield.com gives them to you for free


    24. Member JettaGetUpandGo's Avatar
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      04-07-2007 04:48 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by imjamesiridebmx »
      crutchfield.com gives them to you for free

      but Crutchfield also charges a ridiculous amount for their speakers. Crutchfield wanted $269.99 for my Polks and I got them for $179.98 new in the box on eBay.

      I'm doing work. (Build Thread) | VCDS Scans / Tweaks in the Waukesha / Milwaukee area for $5 or a 12-pk of Mountain Dew

    25. 04-07-2007 04:58 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by JettaGetUpandGo »

      but Crutchfield also charges a ridiculous amount for their speakers. Crutchfield wanted $269.99 for my Polks and I got them for $179.98 new in the box on eBay.

      You also bought them from EBAY, and have ABSOLUTELY NO WARRANTY on the speakers. And don't drop the "they told me there is a warranty" line, because there isn't. If you doubt me, take a look at my name, figure out my affiliation, and then try to question me again.


    26. Member JettaGetUpandGo's Avatar
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      04-09-2007 02:30 PM #26
      I'm fully aware there is no warranty on the speakers. I new that going into it, but that wasn't worth the extra $90.01 to me.
      I'm doing work. (Build Thread) | VCDS Scans / Tweaks in the Waukesha / Milwaukee area for $5 or a 12-pk of Mountain Dew

    27. Banned LETTERMAN52's Avatar
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      04-09-2007 02:33 PM #27
      Quote, originally posted by JettaGetUpandGo »
      I'm fully aware there is no warranty on the speakers. I new that going into it, but that wasn't worth the extra $90.01 to me.

      Yeah. Same here.


    28. Member bigglzworth's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 02:55 PM #28
      Thanks for the write up. I'm going to be doing this soon in the wifes GTI.


      Modified by bigglzworth at 12:45 PM 4-10-2007

    29. 04-10-2007 04:01 PM #29
      Before your edit:

      Both sets of speakers you see here are 7" woofers. The first set (initial DIY was made for) is 7" exactly. The second set (no pointy cone) is about 7.5" external.


    30. Member justn868's Avatar
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      01-20-2009 09:09 AM #30
      good write up!

    31. Member blazerpounds's Avatar
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      01-21-2009 12:52 AM #31
      doesnt get much better nor complete for a write up. STICKY!

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      02-04-2009 06:02 AM #32
      Sweet...they finally added this to the Car Audio and MK4 FAQ's. If you are upgrading the woofers in the doors of an MK4 Jetta/Golf, then you will have to install 1-2 of these spacers depending on the depth of your woofer. For 3 reasons:

      1. It will prevent the window from hitting the speaker magnet.
      2. It will help to protect it from the dirt/moisture on the inside of the door.
      3. It will help the woofer to give better bass response.

      You can order these online in different materials but I'm in a hurry and I don't have a router so I'm going to have a local shop make 4 of these for cheap.

      I'm installing the Polk DB6501 components front and back. The woofers aren't too deep so I'll just need one 3/4" MDF spacer for each with inner diameter of 5" and outer diameter of 6.5". So the lip will be 3/4" thick from inner to outer and the same in depth.


    33. 02-25-2009 04:35 PM #33
      Just started this project, thanks for the great write-up.


      Have an issue, though; anyone else experience the phenomena of replacing the speakers, and the tweeters quit working? Is there some rewiring I need to do? I replaced my drivers' side first and I figured it was a fluke, then went to the drivers' rear and it did the same thing. Any ideas?


    34. 02-26-2009 03:32 PM #34
      Dynaudio? MMMMmmmm
      2012 SBM Autobahn 4dr Manual

    35. 03-16-2009 10:57 PM #35
      can you only install woofers or am i able to install 2-way speakers because i know i have separate tweeters and im not sure if there are crossovers so i dont want to install 2-ways if there will be no highs coming from them


      Modified by BLeiss at 8:13 PM 3-16-2009

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