There isn't one in the facts and i thought I'd spend my three spare hours this week doing something constructive. It also clears some space out of my room .
Things you'll need:
router with 1/4" straight and flush bits and circle-jig
power-drill with screw head and 1/8th and 3/8th inch drill bits
dremel with cutout bits
non-hardening modeling clay
coarse thread 1 5/8" drywall screws
2" long 6-32 threaded screws with nuts - these are at home depot and have a flat head
*maybe* wood glue
The woofers in question, oem vs aftermarket:
Remove your door pannel. I'm not going to go into detail as I'm sure it's in the mk4 faqs. three screws on the bottom, two behind the door pulls, pull and lift up. Unhook the stuff inside.
Unhook the plug going to the speaker. Take your power drill and drill out the four rivets holding the OEM speaker to the door. It will pull right out.
Now were going to build the baffles. Here's the easiest way to do it.
Take your router and set your jig to 7 1/4" and cut a hole. The circle left over will be 6 3/4" in diameter and the perfect size for the stock door.
Next, cut the center out of the circle you just made. You'll want to use the setting on your jig for the cutout diameter provided by your speaker manufacturer.
Next, place your woofer in the rings and use a pencil to mark the cutout holes. Put your woofer aside and take your drill and drill out the holes you just marked.
Depending on how thick your speakers are, you may need to make two rings per woofer. If you're using 3/4" mdf for your rings, you can stack two rings on top of each other and still have room for the woofer. You can fit a speaker up to 3 1/2" deep behind the OEM door skin doing this. .
In order to make a double-thick ring read this. If a single ring will suffice, skip this paragraph. Repeat the drilling for the second ring. Apply some wood glue on one of the rings and use the drywall screws to clamp the rings together. Screw them together very tightly! Take a paper towl and wipe up any extra glue seeping out the outside. Depending on your glue and the temperature, the rings could be dry in as little as fifteen minutes.
Now, take woofer and rotate it so that the second set of holes are evenly spaced between the first set. Drill these holes out. You will not have eight holes drilled in your rings.
Next, take the 3/8th inch drill bit and very carefully spin the bit at high speed but very lightly touch the wood. This will in effect drill very slightly into the wood, but the bit won't bite and tear the ring apart. You will do this for four of the eight holes. You'll want to go down into the wood about 1/4".
Finally, drop a washer in the hole. You'll probably have to press down with a screw driver to get it in. Next, put the 6/32 screw and put it through the hole so the head goes in the notches. You'll want to put a flathead bit in the power drill 'cause it's a lot of screwing to do by hand. Take the bolt all the way down.
(I did these a little out of order becuase I wanted to test-fit everything before doing the full mock-up and write-up. Sorry for the bad pics)
You'll end up with this:
Test fit your rings. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the bolts into the stock holes. This is perfectly okay. Feel free to hit the ring
Take the non-hardeining modeling clay and make a small ring around the woofer hole. This is twofold. First, the clay will absorb vibrations from the woofer. Second, it will make an airtight seal between the rings and the door pannel.
Put your ring on the door. Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of the door. Push hard on the ring and hand-tighten the nuts on the bolts. Then use a socket inside of the door to fully tighten the nuts. Clay will come out the sides of the rings. This is good. You can smear the clay around a little to smoothen the seals on the inside and outside of the ring. If you're sound deadeing the door, apply the deadener over the clay and over the ring.
You can now run the wire through the molding. VW was nice enough to use a VERY large mold. Some vehicles I've worked on barely had room for the stock wires, let alone anything aftermarket.
Push the wires through the door into the inside of the car. It's much easier this way. Even though the molding and the hole inside the car doesn't perfectly line up, if you put your fingers up this little hole and keep feeding speaker wire through, it will come right out inside the car.
inside the door:
inside the car:
You can also take this time to solder the wires to the woofer:
Put another layer of clay around the top of the ring. This will seal between the ring and the woofer.
You will want to cut the drywall screws down. If you're using a double-ring, you don't have to cut them at all. If using a single-ring, you will want to cut them more than halfway off using a dremmel.
Screw the woofer in the remaining four holes tightly. Peel away any extra clay that squeezes out.
Reattach the stock door pannels, run your wires, and enjoy.
I hope this has helped a few people wanting to do some mild upgrades to their stock stereo system. If anyone finds any typos, it's 2:30 am, I won't be offended if you point them out.
Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:31 AM 3-11-2007