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    Thread: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta

    1. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      03-17-2009 12:10 AM #36
      You can install whatever you want, although regardless of what you put in, they will be crossed over to whatever the stock speakers are (unless you do a full rewire or use an aftermarket amp

    2. 03-18-2009 01:02 PM #37
      What are the colors of the pos and neg wires for the drivers side door 6.5 and tweets and the passenger side and the rear doors? They use stupid ass color wires instead of standard red/black...

    3. 03-27-2009 01:15 PM #38
      What are the colors of the pos and neg wires for the drivers side door 6.5 and tweets and the passenger side and the rear doors? They use stupid ass color wires instead of standard red/black...

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      05-27-2009 03:43 PM #39
      i'm going with component mids and tweeters. subs in the trunk. is there any room in the doors for electronic crossovers? (4 1/2" x 3" x 1 1/2")
      if not, where's the best place for them?


    5. 05-31-2009 11:10 PM #40
      Quote, originally posted by johngreene »
      i'm going with component mids and tweeters. subs in the trunk. is there any room in the doors for electronic crossovers? (4 1/2" x 3" x 1 1/2")
      if not, where's the best place for them?

      +1. i'm almost going to need this in the near future.


    6. Member xXGti2006Xx's Avatar
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      06-01-2009 12:47 AM #41
      tons of room for crossovers, youlll have no issue
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    7. 07-27-2009 02:01 AM #42
      I wanted to let everybody know that I just installed 4 new woofers (Alpines) and 4 new tweeters (bought because it had the component package) and I followed this DIY and it worked totally awesome.

      A few things I found different:

      I guess my woofers were smaller than Pat's, so I only used one 3/4" MDF spacer to complete this, front and back. Now that I have retrospect, I think it could have been done with the full 1.5" to kiss up nicely with the panel, but I'm not to concerned with the way that there sitting at all, in fact I'm rather elated.

      I did run into some fun with the wiring. I found that if I solder'd on a an extension to the speaker cable it made things easier. For the back I cut a little hole in the rubber to feed the cable back inside the metal panel so that the wire could feed through the back. The front ones were hard plastic and could have been fed through, but I was getting impatient so I just left them coming through the front, which was no problem, because I had no sunk my bolts that held the MDF onto the door so there was a small little gap between the speaker and the MDF that I could feed the wire though.

      When you take the woofers off, and they have the factory connector, the black and white wires go to the tweeter from the woofer, and the multi colored one are live from the deck. I also found the the wire with the red was the (+) wire. Trial and error, when you put it on a speaker, if its wired right it will pop out, rather than in..

      My woof/tweet's came with their own wiring, so I soldere'd on the wire that I had extended from the deck onto my pins on the woofer, and then connected the harness that was supplied from the woofer to the tweeter, which was fairly painless.

      Like I mentioned earlier, on the back, the wire was fed through the rubber grommet type thing to feed through the back, but on the front both the deck wires and the tweeter connector wires came through the space between the speaker and the MDF.

      Cutting the grommet was fairly painless once I got the hang of it. Drill straight for a little bit, then do circles with the angle of the drill so that you can cut the flap of the rivet off all 4 and then pop the woofer off. Makes it easier to take the whole rivet off without the speaker there. Watch out you don't push to hard or when you pop through the hole you dont go right into the window glass. I cant see any real reason why the glass had to be rolled all the way down, except to actually see how close it was to the speakers...

      This was a fun install. It forced me to buy myself a jigsaw. I have 4 spacers left over cause i cut all 8 and only needed 4 it turned out, so if anybody in the vancouver area needs 4 - 3/4" MDF 6 1/2" inner diameter spacers I have them and I'll give em away.

      So pumped about my new car. Every time I do something to it feels like a new baby. Tomorrow I change the cabin air filter and air filter and get the oil changed. Yai.

      Good luck y'all!


    8. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      07-27-2009 02:21 AM #43
      Good to hear.

      Not listed in this guide but things you'll also want to do:
      -buy thick weatherstripping and mount it between the woofer and door, like the OEM gasket. This will help reduce door card vibrations as well as focus the sound through the grill and not behind the door card.
      -cut the grill off to (again) reduce door card vibrations


    9. 07-27-2009 02:30 AM #44
      I'll keep a mind for this vibrating. On testing it tonight, it didnt sound to like there were vibrations going through the car. I know alot of audio nuts go crazy about this stuff. But I think the vw's are made very solidly that its not an issue. I'll keep alert though, vibrating is ugly.

    10. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      07-27-2009 08:39 PM #45
      door card vibration is EASY to find. Just put your arm on the armrest! Those cards flex like crazy.

    11. Member missioncirca's Avatar
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      07-29-2009 06:34 PM #46
      Nice DIY, interesting approach
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    12. 08-03-2009 06:18 AM #47
      I don't suppose we can get a write-up on tweeter/crossover install?

    13. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-03-2009 03:40 PM #48
      wire the speakers from the headunit amp to input on the crossover, wire the tweeters/woofer to the crossover in the designated spot.

      DIY for tweeters in the sail panel is just cut out the old ones with a dremel, grind out as necessary, pop the new ones in and hotglue/silicone in place. The panel comes off with a torx screw or two.


    14. 08-03-2009 03:45 PM #49
      I just did all 4 tweeters. I'll cover here how I did it. Sorry I didnt take any pictures.

      First off, the back ones are mounted inside of the door panels, so when you take the panel off to do the woofers, you have access to this. The factory tweeters are held in place by something like plastic rivets, and the only way I was able to take them out was to just brake those rivets and pop the tweeter out. I did this using a flathead skrewdriver.

      I'm assuming you did get the 1" tweeters. When you get the factory tweeter out, you'll have a sort of wall on one side of the mount, and the shield which will be facing the interrior. I left that in there.

      Once you have the factory tweeter out of there you should see how your new tweeters will stay in. The posts that the plastic rivet type things were on I had to cut down a little so that the new tweeters could fit into place nicely and smoothly.

      So that was the back two.

      The front ones, I found that the 1" tweeters were to big for the hole, so I ended up having to carve down the wall of the plastic that the tweeter would fit through. You can take off the metal shield by bending the tabs on the inside to point straight out. This gave me easier access to cut. TIP USE A SHARP EXACTO! Working with dull knives is a major pain in the ass and makes you frustrated!

      I'm not sure what kind of crossover unit you have, mine were just lowpass/highpass filters that were inline with the wire that went from the woofers to the tweeters, so I just plugged them both in, fed them through any place I could find that wouldn't get pinched, taped them in place so they stayed nice and tight and didn't get in the way, and presto. Put the door back together.

      Hope this helps!

      To mount the new tweeters, I just placed them in the hole and super glued them in there. I used a piece of tape to hold it together while I finished the rest of the job.


    15. 08-03-2009 03:47 PM #50
      Note: I did use superglue on the back two. The front ones, I carved down in such a way that they fit in snugly. So far, my speakers are still pumping and no problems! Its been a week.

    16. 08-03-2009 11:37 PM #51
      Yea that kind of helps. I'm installing CDT eurorsports so there is a decent crossover to be installed. How are you guys mounting them in the door?

    17. 08-03-2009 11:37 PM #52
      pictures would be worth a million words here.

    18. 08-04-2009 12:31 AM #53
      haha ya sorry man. I wish I woulda taken pictures. I thought about that after putting it all back together, and I was exhausted from the day and it was dark out and I had a cold beer in my hand so I said. I'm done!

      Basically you have to just pop the back tweeters out of there anyhow, so just pop em out. They are only held on by 3 or 4 little plastic pieces, that are about 3mm in diameter, with a T top on them, or some were just melted down ugly like. I found the plastic was brittle enough that I could forcibly pop out the tweeter and the plastic tabs just broke off. Once you have them out you can see alot easier how to mount them. Time to use some ingenuity we know you have cause your on here!

      I started with the back, and when I got to the front I knew how to pop them off in the same way, but it was a little different fit. My tweeters actually came inside of a casing already, so for the back ones I kept them in their casing, but the front ones I unskrewed them from their casing and put them in just as the 1" tweeter because the hole they were going into was to small for the whole deal. No sound difference and behind the plastic case they are in its all good.

      Like I mentioned in my initial post. Its alot easier for the front ones if you take off the metal shieding from the door panel piece (little triangle) that holds the tweeter inside of it by prying the metal tabs to be straight out (this is on the side that faces out of the car when mounted inside). Then you can see what you have to work with.

      HOpe this clears it up a little.


    19. 08-08-2009 12:44 AM #54
      Yea I think that makes more sense. Thanks for the input.

      I was cruising through google and saw a custom job where the did exactly this for the speakers, but re-used the rubber flares attached to the OEM speakers to help direct the sound. Think that would help any? worth the effort?


    20. 08-08-2009 02:19 AM #55
      no idea. I didnt do it. Mine sound killer. Spose it cant hurt if they fit. I just thought they looked like POS so I chucked em.

    21. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-08-2009 08:30 AM #56
      Others have done it that way. Honestly, I think it's ghetto

    22. 08-14-2009 06:15 PM #57
      Thanks for the post, very helpful!
      i have stripped down my car door but i am having problems as to which wires i should use. On my new speaker there are spaces for 2 wires but on my orginal speaker there is a connector with 4 wires going in (shown in pic). I think the white and black wires come from the tweeters at the top of the door.

      I do not know what the other 2 wires are for (green&brown and red&green).
      Can someone advise me on which wires i should use to connect directly to my new speakers.

      My car is a golf tdi 2003

      http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/564/img4207g.jpg


    23. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-15-2009 01:46 AM #58
      black and white go to the tweeter, correct.

      The other two wires are the input signals for the speakers. I can not recall offhand whether the non-monsoon system's tweeter was crossed over at the tweeter or at the woofer.

      Either way, if you're installing a COMPONENT set (tweeter + mid with crossover), you would wire the red and brown wires to the input on the crossover, then continue on as the manual says.

      If you are installing a "multi-way" coaxial speaker, your best bet is to run those wires to the speaker input, unhook the leads on the coaxial running to the built-in tweeters, and then wire the same input lead for the woofer to the stock tweeter. This is the hairy part: if the tweeters is crossed at the tweeter, that is fine. If it is crossed in the woofer (to do this properly), you will need to make a basic crossover for the tweeter. To do this you will need a 12 microfarad capacitor, a 5 ohm resistor, and a .3 milli-henrey inductor (l2) , and (as close as you can get) to a 9.3 microfarad capacitor (c2).




      Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 1:50 AM 8-15-2009


    24. 08-15-2009 02:01 PM #59
      Quote, originally posted by sanchopanca »
      When you take the woofers off, and they have the factory connector, the black and white wires go to the tweeter from the woofer, and the multi colored one are live from the deck. I also found the the wire with the red was the (+) wire. Trial and error, when you put it on a speaker, if its wired right it will pop out, rather than in..

    25. 08-15-2009 07:50 PM #60
      well i did this all today, took me 8 hours but worth it. I have 6x9 in the back and thats the only speakers i had because all my car door ones had blown. Now i have calibers in the front and JBLs in the back and sound is awesome.

      I had one problem. I fixed the cable to the speakers fed it through the door put the door back on and put down the window and it ripped the wires from the terminals, so the door came off again.

      What i did notice is that one speaker is higher in treble than the other front one. I switched the positive and negative terminals but cant figure out if it made a difference, i think it has.

      Apart from that it all went smoothly and i made 1 inch baffle for mine.

      thanks for the help.
      Ive always wanted to do this and didnt know where to start, brilliant gude!


    26. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-16-2009 12:15 AM #61

      Yeah, if you run it through the regulator it will hit. I (probably should have mentioned this) find it easier to do this properly with the window down so you know where to run the speaker cable without hitting the window.

      6x9's in the back doors? Wanna throw up a picture?


    27. 08-16-2009 02:35 PM #62
      no 6x9 in the rear above the boot placed on the boot compartment door thing.
      It did it again today, so what i did was took the middle right door popper off and put a small steel rod over the circle, hooked a cable tie around the wire and put both ends through where the door popper is meant to go and tied the cable to to the steal rod so the cable is very close to the inside of the door so the window wont interfere with it.

      cheers


    28. 04-18-2010 10:04 PM #63
      If anyone doesn't feel like doing all the work on this, you can buy an adapter online for $8-15. I just picked up a pair from BestBuy.com.

      http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sc...&lp=1


    29. Member edizzle's Avatar
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      04-19-2010 10:27 PM #64
      do those act like the mdf spacers or just stick in the door and hold the speakers place? also, i think plastic spacers would = rattle?

    30. Junior Member cheffk4's Avatar
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      04-26-2010 12:07 PM #65
      i just picked up a set of 4 power acoustik mid-65's, there 4 inches deep, how big of a spacer do you think i would need? would i be good with a one inch spacer?

    31. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      04-26-2010 03:10 PM #66
      Most plastic spacers aren't as strong. A much better option is cutting boards from Walmart/target. They can be melted together with a soldering iron, and cut with a router - not in that order of course.

      4" deep speakers will not fit. They will hit off of the window carrier. You could try. You'll need at least 2"" spacers. and you'll also have to cut grills out and mount the speaker in the cabin. You can fit a max 1.5" spacer behind the factory door card. With a 1.5" spacer, you can run up to a 3 3/8" mounting depth.


      According to bestbuy, they have a 3.5" mounting depth. You could try 1.5" spacers, but I highly doubt they're going to fit without scraping.


      Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 3:11 PM 4-26-2010


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      08-12-2010 09:49 AM #67
      Good stuff.. added to my bookmarks so I will have this for the weekend. Thanks man.
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    33. 09-19-2010 12:22 AM #68
      i wanna do this .. thanks for the write up

    34. Member
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      10-06-2010 04:41 PM #69
      does anyone notice that the factory speakers have a little more bass punch to them then aftermarket? or maybe im just buying cheap speakers when iv done my speaker swaps in the past. this does look sweet for when my speakers get warn out though.

    35. Junior Member roadrunninmark's Avatar
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      10-06-2010 08:20 PM #70
      From what I understand from the posts, the factory plug has 4 wires, red/green (+for woofer?) and brown/green (- for woofer?)? The other 2 are for the tweeter. Can someone tell me which is the + for the power in?

      I have the monsoon single DIN and I am also replacing the tweeters too. The tweeters have a resister on the back of them so I take it that is the crossover for it. So I have to wire in the crossover with my Kappas.

      Mark
      Last edited by roadrunninmark; 10-07-2010 at 07:35 AM.

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