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    Thread: DIY: Installing speakers in a mk4 golf/jetta

    1. 08-03-2009 11:37 PM #51
      Yea that kind of helps. I'm installing CDT eurorsports so there is a decent crossover to be installed. How are you guys mounting them in the door?

    2. 08-03-2009 11:37 PM #52
      pictures would be worth a million words here.

    3. 08-04-2009 12:31 AM #53
      haha ya sorry man. I wish I woulda taken pictures. I thought about that after putting it all back together, and I was exhausted from the day and it was dark out and I had a cold beer in my hand so I said. I'm done!
      Basically you have to just pop the back tweeters out of there anyhow, so just pop em out. They are only held on by 3 or 4 little plastic pieces, that are about 3mm in diameter, with a T top on them, or some were just melted down ugly like. I found the plastic was brittle enough that I could forcibly pop out the tweeter and the plastic tabs just broke off. Once you have them out you can see alot easier how to mount them. Time to use some ingenuity we know you have cause your on here!
      I started with the back, and when I got to the front I knew how to pop them off in the same way, but it was a little different fit. My tweeters actually came inside of a casing already, so for the back ones I kept them in their casing, but the front ones I unskrewed them from their casing and put them in just as the 1" tweeter because the hole they were going into was to small for the whole deal. No sound difference and behind the plastic case they are in its all good.
      Like I mentioned in my initial post. Its alot easier for the front ones if you take off the metal shieding from the door panel piece (little triangle) that holds the tweeter inside of it by prying the metal tabs to be straight out (this is on the side that faces out of the car when mounted inside). Then you can see what you have to work with.
      HOpe this clears it up a little.

    4. 08-08-2009 12:44 AM #54
      Yea I think that makes more sense. Thanks for the input.
      I was cruising through google and saw a custom job where the did exactly this for the speakers, but re-used the rubber flares attached to the OEM speakers to help direct the sound. Think that would help any? worth the effort?

    5. 08-08-2009 02:19 AM #55
      no idea. I didnt do it. Mine sound killer. Spose it cant hurt if they fit. I just thought they looked like POS so I chucked em.

    6. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-08-2009 08:30 AM #56
      Others have done it that way. Honestly, I think it's ghetto

    7. 08-14-2009 06:15 PM #57
      Thanks for the post, very helpful!
      i have stripped down my car door but i am having problems as to which wires i should use. On my new speaker there are spaces for 2 wires but on my orginal speaker there is a connector with 4 wires going in (shown in pic). I think the white and black wires come from the tweeters at the top of the door.
      I do not know what the other 2 wires are for (green&brown and red&green).
      Can someone advise me on which wires i should use to connect directly to my new speakers.
      My car is a golf tdi 2003
      http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/564/img4207g.jpg

    8. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-15-2009 01:46 AM #58
      black and white go to the tweeter, correct.
      The other two wires are the input signals for the speakers. I can not recall offhand whether the non-monsoon system's tweeter was crossed over at the tweeter or at the woofer.
      Either way, if you're installing a COMPONENT set (tweeter + mid with crossover), you would wire the red and brown wires to the input on the crossover, then continue on as the manual says.
      If you are installing a "multi-way" coaxial speaker, your best bet is to run those wires to the speaker input, unhook the leads on the coaxial running to the built-in tweeters, and then wire the same input lead for the woofer to the stock tweeter. This is the hairy part: if the tweeters is crossed at the tweeter, that is fine. If it is crossed in the woofer (to do this properly), you will need to make a basic crossover for the tweeter. To do this you will need a 12 microfarad capacitor, a 5 ohm resistor, and a .3 milli-henrey inductor (l2) , and (as close as you can get) to a 9.3 microfarad capacitor (c2).



      Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 1:50 AM 8-15-2009

    9. 08-15-2009 02:01 PM #59
      Quote, originally posted by sanchopanca »
      When you take the woofers off, and they have the factory connector, the black and white wires go to the tweeter from the woofer, and the multi colored one are live from the deck. I also found the the wire with the red was the (+) wire. Trial and error, when you put it on a speaker, if its wired right it will pop out, rather than in..

    10. 08-15-2009 07:50 PM #60
      well i did this all today, took me 8 hours but worth it. I have 6x9 in the back and thats the only speakers i had because all my car door ones had blown. Now i have calibers in the front and JBLs in the back and sound is awesome.
      I had one problem. I fixed the cable to the speakers fed it through the door put the door back on and put down the window and it ripped the wires from the terminals, so the door came off again.
      What i did notice is that one speaker is higher in treble than the other front one. I switched the positive and negative terminals but cant figure out if it made a difference, i think it has.
      Apart from that it all went smoothly and i made 1 inch baffle for mine.
      thanks for the help.
      Ive always wanted to do this and didnt know where to start, brilliant gude!

    11. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      08-16-2009 12:15 AM #61
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Yeah, if you run it through the regulator it will hit. I (probably should have mentioned this) find it easier to do this properly with the window down so you know where to run the speaker cable without hitting the window.
      6x9's in the back doors? Wanna throw up a picture?

    12. 08-16-2009 02:35 PM #62
      no 6x9 in the rear above the boot placed on the boot compartment door thing.
      It did it again today, so what i did was took the middle right door popper off and put a small steel rod over the circle, hooked a cable tie around the wire and put both ends through where the door popper is meant to go and tied the cable to to the steal rod so the cable is very close to the inside of the door so the window wont interfere with it.
      cheers

    13. 04-18-2010 10:04 PM #63
      If anyone doesn't feel like doing all the work on this, you can buy an adapter online for $8-15. I just picked up a pair from BestBuy.com.
      http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Sc...&lp=1

    14. Member edizzle's Avatar
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      04-19-2010 10:27 PM #64
      do those act like the mdf spacers or just stick in the door and hold the speakers place? also, i think plastic spacers would = rattle?

    15. Junior Member cheffk4's Avatar
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      04-26-2010 12:07 PM #65
      i just picked up a set of 4 power acoustik mid-65's, there 4 inches deep, how big of a spacer do you think i would need? would i be good with a one inch spacer?

    16. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      04-26-2010 03:10 PM #66
      Most plastic spacers aren't as strong. A much better option is cutting boards from Walmart/target. They can be melted together with a soldering iron, and cut with a router - not in that order of course.
      4" deep speakers will not fit. They will hit off of the window carrier. You could try. You'll need at least 2"" spacers. and you'll also have to cut grills out and mount the speaker in the cabin. You can fit a max 1.5" spacer behind the factory door card. With a 1.5" spacer, you can run up to a 3 3/8" mounting depth.

      According to bestbuy, they have a 3.5" mounting depth. You could try 1.5" spacers, but I highly doubt they're going to fit without scraping.


      Modified by Pat @ Pitt Soundworks at 3:11 PM 4-26-2010

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      08-12-2010 09:49 AM #67
      Good stuff.. added to my bookmarks so I will have this for the weekend. Thanks man.
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    18. 09-19-2010 12:22 AM #68
      i wanna do this .. thanks for the write up

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      10-06-2010 04:41 PM #69
      does anyone notice that the factory speakers have a little more bass punch to them then aftermarket? or maybe im just buying cheap speakers when iv done my speaker swaps in the past. this does look sweet for when my speakers get warn out though.

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      10-06-2010 08:20 PM #70
      From what I understand from the posts, the factory plug has 4 wires, red/green (+for woofer?) and brown/green (- for woofer?)? The other 2 are for the tweeter. Can someone tell me which is the + for the power in?

      I have the monsoon single DIN and I am also replacing the tweeters too. The tweeters have a resister on the back of them so I take it that is the crossover for it. So I have to wire in the crossover with my Kappas.

      Mark
      Last edited by roadrunninmark; 10-07-2010 at 07:35 AM.

    21. 11-18-2010 06:16 AM #71
      Is there a DIY just like this one for the MK3 Jetta? I have yet to peek behind my speaker grills to see if there is clearance to add a 1.5 inch adapter piece like this one.

      I tried searching, but all I can find is this thread

      Thanks for the help

    22. 12-05-2010 01:19 AM #72
      Hey guys i have a 2000 jetta my front passenger speaker went bad and i got a a pair of 6 1/2 inch pioneer speakers my car has manual windows so will the window touch the magnet or will i def need that spacer if so where can i get one?

    23. Member Pat @ Pitt Soundworks's Avatar
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      12-05-2010 08:19 AM #73
      depends on depth

    24. 12-06-2010 02:34 AM #74
      You can install aftermarket speakers into your MKIV using the Factory fitted Spacer/plastic housing fitted on car. YOu don't need to make any, you will use the ones in the car. They are reusable. The factory harness you will not need to modify it, it will plug into the same location. You will gut out the speaker out of the ring casing and install your speaker in place of it.

      Use a dremel, dykes, or jig handsaw to core out the speakers from the black plastic ring casing. Carefully do this with speaker spacer/ring fitted. DOn't need to disconnect the speakers. Avoid damaging the speaker connector, you will solder your speaker to this later from the back side. Cut the two speaker wires closest to the speaker.
      Don't touch the rivets, these secure the the ring onto the door.

      Once you removed speaker core, install female spade connectors to your aftermarket speaker. leaving a couple of inches slack, solder the other ends to the back of the inside of ring connector. Pay attention to polarity. Secure speaker with short sheetmetal screws. Roll the window up and down and check for clearance.

      Factory speaker harness will be fitted,spacer/ring fitted, and look like a factory set-up , when you are done.
      Last edited by GL03; 12-06-2010 at 02:37 AM.

    25. 03-23-2011 09:59 AM #75
      Quote Originally Posted by pwnt by pat View Post
      There isn't one in the facts and i thought I'd spend my three spare hours this week doing something constructive. It also clears some space out of my room .
      Things you'll need:
      router with 1/4" straight and flush bits and circle-jig
      power-drill with screw head and 1/8th and 3/8th inch drill bits
      dremel with cutout bits
      non-hardening modeling clay
      coarse thread 1 5/8" drywall screws
      2" long 6-32 threaded screws with nuts - these are at home depot and have a flat head
      small washers
      *maybe* wood glue
      The woofers in question, oem vs aftermarket:


      Step One
      Remove your door pannel. I'm not going to go into detail as I'm sure it's in the mk4 faqs. three screws on the bottom, two behind the door pulls, pull and lift up. Unhook the stuff inside.

      Step Two
      Unhook the plug going to the speaker. Take your power drill and drill out the four rivets holding the OEM speaker to the door. It will pull right out.


      Step Three
      Now were going to build the baffles. Here's the easiest way to do it.
      Take your router and set your jig to 7 1/4" and cut a hole. The circle left over will be 6 3/4" in diameter and the perfect size for the stock door.
      Next, cut the center out of the circle you just made. You'll want to use the setting on your jig for the cutout diameter provided by your speaker manufacturer.
      Next, place your woofer in the rings and use a pencil to mark the cutout holes. Put your woofer aside and take your drill and drill out the holes you just marked.
      Depending on how thick your speakers are, you may need to make two rings per woofer. If you're using 3/4" mdf for your rings, you can stack two rings on top of each other and still have room for the woofer. You can fit a speaker up to 3 1/2" deep behind the OEM door skin doing this. .
      In order to make a double-thick ring read this. If a single ring will suffice, skip this paragraph. Repeat the drilling for the second ring. Apply some wood glue on one of the rings and use the drywall screws to clamp the rings together. Screw them together very tightly! Take a paper towl and wipe up any extra glue seeping out the outside. Depending on your glue and the temperature, the rings could be dry in as little as fifteen minutes.
      Now, take woofer and rotate it so that the second set of holes are evenly spaced between the first set. Drill these holes out. You will not have eight holes drilled in your rings.
      Next, take the 3/8th inch drill bit and very carefully spin the bit at high speed but very lightly touch the wood. This will in effect drill very slightly into the wood, but the bit won't bite and tear the ring apart. You will do this for four of the eight holes. You'll want to go down into the wood about 1/4".
      Finally, drop a washer in the hole. You'll probably have to press down with a screw driver to get it in. Next, put the 6/32 screw and put it through the hole so the head goes in the notches. You'll want to put a flathead bit in the power drill 'cause it's a lot of screwing to do by hand. Take the bolt all the way down.
      (I did these a little out of order becuase I wanted to test-fit everything before doing the full mock-up and write-up. Sorry for the bad pics)
      You'll end up with this:





      Test fit your rings. You may need to use a flathead screwdriver to pry the bolts into the stock holes. This is perfectly okay. Feel free to hit the ring

      Step Four
      Take the non-hardeining modeling clay and make a small ring around the woofer hole. This is twofold. First, the clay will absorb vibrations from the woofer. Second, it will make an airtight seal between the rings and the door pannel.


      Step Five
      Put your ring on the door. Put a washer on the bolt on the inside of the door. Push hard on the ring and hand-tighten the nuts on the bolts. Then use a socket inside of the door to fully tighten the nuts. Clay will come out the sides of the rings. This is good. You can smear the clay around a little to smoothen the seals on the inside and outside of the ring. If you're sound deadeing the door, apply the deadener over the clay and over the ring.



      Step Six
      You can now run the wire through the molding. VW was nice enough to use a VERY large mold. Some vehicles I've worked on barely had room for the stock wires, let alone anything aftermarket.
      Push the wires through the door into the inside of the car. It's much easier this way. Even though the molding and the hole inside the car doesn't perfectly line up, if you put your fingers up this little hole and keep feeding speaker wire through, it will come right out inside the car.
      inside the door:

      the molding:

      inside the car:


      You can also take this time to solder the wires to the woofer:

      Step Seven
      Put another layer of clay around the top of the ring. This will seal between the ring and the woofer.
      Step Eight
      You will want to cut the drywall screws down. If you're using a double-ring, you don't have to cut them at all. If using a single-ring, you will want to cut them more than halfway off using a dremmel.
      Screw the woofer in the remaining four holes tightly. Peel away any extra clay that squeezes out.

      Step Nine
      Reattach the stock door pannels, run your wires, and enjoy.



      I hope this has helped a few people wanting to do some mild upgrades to their stock stereo system. If anyone finds any typos, it's 2:30 am, I won't be offended if you point them out.
      Enjoy



      Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:31 AM 3-11-2007

      what did you use to attach the wood rings to the door? and do you have a picture of what the stock wiring looks like on the speakers befor you installed the woofer? im looking to install better speakers in my jetta but b4 i start working on it i want to know what im up against for wiring new speaker in

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