Username or Email Address
Do you already have an account?
Forgot your password?
  • Log in or Sign up

    VWVortex


    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
    Results 1 to 35 of 100

    Thread: THE MK2 gear shift linkage repair guide

    1. 03-14-2007 10:46 AM #1
      GSF sell the linkage repair kit in the UK:
      71709C GEAR LINKAGE REPAIR KIT £5.75 + VAT

      I'm not sure where to get this in the US, someone let me know

      This is what you'll receive:

      1x big red bush (in the large bracket that holds the gearlever shaft)
      4x hard plastic bushes (only 2 needed, for bracket bolted to the gearbox)
      2x big clear soft rubbery bushes (for the relay shaft)
      2x small white soft rubbery bushes (for the ends of the shift rod)
      2x rivets (un-needed, used for the red bush housing but no need to drill out old ones)
      4x soft foamy washers (used on the short & long link rod ball joints)

      Its also worth buying an uprated relay shaft bush from:
      http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel...shtml

      Will improve the forward back feel a great deal

      Ok pop the bonnet and this is what you'll see, note I've already fitted the weighted shift rod:

      Remove the header tank and place it out of the way, this gives you loads of room to work in. Pre 90 spec ones are just slotted into the bracket, 90 spec ones are held on with 2 bolts/studs under the black plastic trim bit. Don't forget to disconnect the level sensor if one is fitted!
      The short & long rods with the plastic end caps have little clips to clamp the ends, carefully unclip these, I snapped one off and had to make an emergency visit to the scrappy! Both rods should then pop off with a little persuasion.
      Lever the spring clips out of the metal shift rod and remove, make sure these don't ping off & disappear!
      Undo the 13mm nut on top of the relay shaft, and remove the large metal arm.
      Loosen the 13mm pinch nut & bolt on the clamp on the gearlever shaft bracket, until it can be removed (you might want to mark its position but Chances are the alignment will be out after refitting all the bushes anyway!)
      Remove the 3 13mm bolts holding the relay shaft bracket to the steering rack, and remove. This is tricky, you have to wiggle the bracket about whilst holding the gearlever shaft as far back as it will go, there is only just enough clearance!

      Your engine bay will now look like this (note 2 of the gearbox linkage bracket bolts are circled):

      Now you have 2 choices, either remove the bracket bolted to the gearbox, or just unbolt the lever from the bracket. If you wish to change the gearbox it would be a good plan to do it at the same time as the only way to do it is to remove the linkage bracket. It also makes it easier to fit the replacement bushes and refit the lever, plus you can clean it up nice :smiley:

      To remove the bracket:
      Undo the large bolt through the middle of the gearbox mount.
      Jack the gearbox up as far as possible, go slowly as the clutch arm will hit the inner wing.
      Remove the bolts holding the linkage to the gearbox and it should slide out nicely
      If you want to replace the gearbox mount, there are 2 smaller bolts holding the gearbox mount in the subframe, remove these and you'll have JUST enough clearance to remove it and swap in the new one.

      To remove the lever from the bracket:
      Simply remove the 13mm nut & bolt and the lever will slide off :smiley:

      Ok now you'll have a pile of linkage bits on your workbench, after cleaning em up with a wire brush you'll have something like this:

      (notice I forgot to put the small plastic linkage and the lever mentioned above in the pic)

      It should now be pretty obvious which bushes go where, if you are unsure I've listed the locations above. The tricky one is the big red bush but it is possible to rip the old one out and fit the replacement without drilling out the rivets, put it in a tub of warm water first to make it a wee bit more flexible. Then as the red book says, re-assembly is the reverse of removal, make sure you grease up the moving parts while you put it all back together :smiley:

      Now to set up the alignment, dave2227 sells the alignment tool on ebay to make the job easy:

      Also heres a link to an engineers diagram of the tool, so you can get it made yourself:
      http://vwtech.no-ip.info/image...5.png

      But being a tight Northerner I just used an old cassette tape held in the gap between the reverse gate & lockout lever with duck tape! Make sure you do the pinch bolt up tight, I made the mistake (twice!!) of not doing it up enough and lost all my gears a day or so afterwards as a result :grin:

      Job done:


      Modified by rubjonny at 2:52 PM 3-14-2007


      Modified by rubjonny at 11:00 AM 9-28-2007


    2. 03-14-2007 10:47 AM #2
      Gearstick housing replacement:
      It's pretty straightforward to do but a bit fiddly. You can still get the repair kit from VW, part number is 191 798 116A. I would recommend you get the genuine kit, this isn't a job you want to be doing twice! It also helps if you get an alignment tool from Dave2227 off ebay, but this is not essential.

      1. Remove the gearstick gaitor & centre console to give you more room to work

      2. Undo the 2 10mm nuts either side of the gearstick.

      Raise the car on ramps, or jack it up, if it’s too low for ramps. Observe safe practice - use axle stands, apply the handbrake, chock the wheels. Select neutral.
      Now get under the car
      3. Remove the exhaust centre heat shield by removing the 6 nuts/clips holding it on, then rotate it round the exhaust an off the car

      4. Shove the housing up into the car, it is only held in by gravity & grease at this point, then remove the 4 13mm nuts holding the shiftbox to the car

      5. Now get back in the car, pull up on the stick and push down on the shiftbox, and Jiggle the gearlever housing about until you can get it out, bit of a fiddle but it can be done!

      6. If the ball looks like it is worn you can remove it, if it looks OK I wouldn't bother! Its tricky, you need to press the ball upwards while someone holds the gearlever down, then you need to remove the split pin. Not an easy task!

      It's much easier if you drop the gear lever down and out through the hole left by the absent ball housing. You need to wiggle the stop plate gently through the aperature, then the white plastic detent block through the same hole. A little pressure to move the exhaust sideways a fraction helps and it’s much easier with two people - one in the car and one under it. It will come out, but needs fiddling.

      7. Refit the gearstick if you removed it in the previous step. Remember to be careful getting the stop plate through the housing. Install the new ball housing its just as fiddly as getting the old one out, some swearwords may need to be spoken!

      Other useful pics:

      Gearstick removed (new ball fitted)

      Wear inside the ball housing - certainly enough to get you reverse instead of first. On my GTI you could actually see through the bottom of the housing!

      Old and new balls; wear looked quite minimal, but in for a penny...


      Big thanks to Gary Woods for supplying the pics for this guide and some extra hints


    3. Banned skillton's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 26th, 2002
      Posts
      6,427
      03-14-2007 11:00 AM #3
      Nice write up, but I just got rid of my shift linkages all together, the're sitting somewhere in the garage right now, I put in an 02A with cable shift

    4. 03-14-2007 01:16 PM #4
      thanks, this is good to know, mostly just for the ball part. everything else on my car is getting replaced with my USRT kit.

    5. 03-14-2007 01:17 PM #5
      every mk2 owner should check their balls

    6. 03-14-2007 01:19 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
      every mk2 owner should check their balls

      deal.


      yep they're there.


    7. 03-14-2007 01:22 PM #7
      cool, has been known for them to fall off!

    8. 03-14-2007 01:24 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
      cool, has been known for them to fall off!

      especially up here in the north.

      that said, most of the snow here is actually gone, summer tyres are coming out soon.

      as are a variety of small, and some much larger projects.


    9. 03-14-2007 01:49 PM #9
      all new linkage parts, well greased = Mmmmm

    10. Member Burnitwithfire's Avatar
      Join Date
      May 14th, 2005
      Location
      Quebec, Canada
      Posts
      10,250
      Vehicles
      2005 Legacy GT LTD 1992 Miata sunburst yellow
      03-14-2007 02:40 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
      4x soft foamy washers (used on the short & long link rod ball joints)

      So that's what they are for!!! Nice write up, good job!

      Quote Originally Posted by SAV912 View Post
      Going to church is bland. Eating vanilla ice cream is bland. Dating somebody from your local Ayn Rand book club is bland. This car makes all of those things seem as exciting as doing 12 lines of cocaine. With Katie Perry. While she's on fire...in Times Square. And you're naked.

    11. Banned zeroman's Avatar
      Join Date
      Nov 19th, 2006
      Posts
      2,620
      03-14-2007 02:47 PM #11
      this would of been so nice before i took it to a shop to have this done! good write up

      i got my self a weighten shift rod my self like 30 mins ago, duno what to tell because i dont feel a difference but its on there $0 too <3 junk yards


    12. Banned hipfin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 16th, 2006
      Posts
      1,596
      03-16-2007 03:48 AM #12
      im really really glad that this was written up. i just bought an mkii with shift linkage problems so i searched for shift linkage under mkii forums and its the only thing that came up! yyyay thanks

    13. 03-16-2007 05:54 AM #13
      glad its of use guys, hipfin good luck with the repair

    14. Banned hipfin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Mar 16th, 2006
      Posts
      1,596
      03-16-2007 12:17 PM #14
      haha i quoted you in my sig. idk why i just LOLed when i read it

    15. Member Chutem16V's Avatar
      Join Date
      Sep 19th, 2004
      Location
      Central NJ
      Posts
      400
      Vehicles
      1988 GTI 16v
      03-16-2007 02:35 PM #15
      Check this place out for all the shift linkage info you need. Great parts.

      http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel...shtml

      It's very informative.


    16. Member Rugrat Anklebiter's Avatar
      Join Date
      Dec 5th, 2000
      Location
      PSL, FL
      Posts
      1,520
      Vehicles
      '96 GTI VR6
      09-24-2007 09:11 PM #16
      Potterman's has the entire rebuild kit for $99.


      http://www.parts4vws.com/catal...98211


      Modified by Rugrat Anklebiter at 5:12 PM 9-24-2007


    17. 09-24-2007 09:21 PM #17
      just swap in an O2A and get one of these...

      I sit in the car and shift gears ...


    18. 09-28-2007 06:58 AM #18
      Quick addition, heres a link to a nice clear engineers diagram for the alignment tool
      http://vwtech.no-ip.info/image...5.png

    19. 09-28-2007 07:32 AM #19
      Quote, originally posted by 1.9..16vTurbo »
      just swap in an O2A and get one of these...

      I sit in the car and shift gears ...

      gtfo?

      Quote Originally Posted by Pineapplegti ! View Post
      Brand enthusiasts are idiots.
      Klutch Republik - Live Fast , Drive Hard
      SCCH Cylinder Heads & Suspension Components
      OSD #16

    20. Member
      Join Date
      Jun 1st, 2001
      Posts
      422
      Vehicles
      92 GTI 16V 2.0; B5.5 Passat GLS; 13 CC R-Line; 90 Jetta GL(deceased)
      09-02-2008 04:10 PM #20
      Thanks for the write up. I rebuilt my linkage and shifter with parts from GAP this past weekend and it went perfectly! I also installed a weighted shift rod. It's like driving a new car.

      P.S.

      Spend the $12 plus shipping and get the Shifter Alignment Tool from TT. It worked the first time. No having to re-adjust multiple times like with the cassette trick.


    21. Member 959Lover's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 20th, 2006
      Posts
      5,152
      Vehicles
      91GTI 12v, 87 951 trackcar, some more...
      09-02-2008 04:16 PM #21
      good writeup. Should def be added to the DIY thread.
      Quote Originally Posted by xpalendocious View Post
      That'll go well in my mk2

    22. 01-13-2009 11:55 PM #22
      If I think I'm looking at what I'm looking at, my shift ball is falling through the cup.88 Cabriolet manual 5 speed, I not only have 5 speeds, I have 3 elevations of the gear shift. With the gear shift knob almost bottomed out I can get 2nd and 3rd,sometimes. Then in the mid elevation position I am eternally stuck between 3rd and forth, with the gear shift in the "almost out of it's socket"position I am able to grope for 1st or reverse.I am trying to anticipate the parts to order, on the list is the bushing kit, what is the part # for the receiving cup and am I going to order the ball separately? I am R&Ring water pump, both trans axles,radiator so this is not the end of me. I am being green by recycling this ole Dub.You pictures are great and helped me understand the immensity of this project. Chapman VW in Tucson Arizona is a regional dealer here and they carried the o ring for the oil cooler for six bucks and two bits.

    23. Banned
      Join Date
      Aug 2nd, 2008
      Posts
      5,088
      03-26-2009 07:20 PM #23

    24. Member sin bar's Avatar
      Join Date
      Jan 12th, 2008
      Location
      sin bar ga
      Posts
      18,689
      Vehicles
      wagoon.
      03-26-2009 08:27 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by shellshocked »
      If I think I'm looking at what I'm looking at, my shift ball is falling through the cup.88 Cabriolet manual 5 speed, I not only have 5 speeds, I have 3 elevations of the gear shift. With the gear shift knob almost bottomed out I can get 2nd and 3rd,sometimes. Then in the mid elevation position I am eternally stuck between 3rd and forth, with the gear shift in the "almost out of it's socket"position I am able to grope for 1st or reverse.I am trying to anticipate the parts to order, on the list is the bushing kit, what is the part # for the receiving cup and am I going to order the ball separately? I am R&Ring water pump, both trans axles,radiator so this is not the end of me. I am being green by recycling this ole Dub.You pictures are great and helped me understand the immensity of this project. Chapman VW in Tucson Arizona is a regional dealer here and they carried the o ring for the oil cooler for six bucks and two bits.

      check parts4vws or germanautoparts.com, and you'll have everything you need. did it myself with a little bit o help from my friends.

      the parts from either of these places will be even less than your local dealership, and you'll get either a sticker or a bag of candy, depending on from whom you order!


    25. 03-29-2009 09:34 PM #25
      Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »

      I have a MKIII & also having problems getting into 2nd & 4th after messing with my shifter lever pivot, after deciding not to mess with it.

      - can I re-align from the engine bay to get 2nd & 4th back?
      - if I do decide to replace the shift lever pivot ball do I have to drop the exhaust & remove the heat shield to do this?

      Thanks!


    26. 03-30-2009 10:31 AM #26
      help. thanks.

    27. 05-05-2009 01:52 PM #27
      Hi,

      I just got done doing this job, and the write up was a huge help! I'd like to add a note or two:

      I'd encourage anyone doing this job to go ahead and either get the complete kit with the shifter box bushing, or to at least get the second orange bushing and do the bushing at the box. Otherwise you'll be great at one end of the rod and sloppy at the other, making you wonder why you went to all the trouble.

      You can get the shifter box out, if you loosen the exhaust clamps behind the cat, and remove the one nut holding the exhaust hanger near the fuel pump. I had to replace my reverse lockout, which would have been really hard w/o removing the box.

      Getting the shift rod out isn't too hard once the box is loose. Pull the rod under the car along the center hump until the rod clears the power steering rack, then back forwards. You should be able to get enough angle to get it out from the inside at that point.

      The results of all this are really nice. Now if I can get a weighted rod, it'll be about perfect.


    28. Member pretendo's Avatar
      Join Date
      Feb 1st, 2007
      Location
      Renton
      Posts
      1,153
      Vehicles
      02 Jetta 1.8t & 87 GLI
      05-05-2009 02:34 PM #28
      i needed this a month ago

    29. 05-05-2009 02:57 PM #29
      Quote, originally posted by rubjonny »
      1x big red bush

      I got this far and LOL'd...

      Quote Originally Posted by patrikman
      You sound like a man who would appreciate an upper decker.

    30. 05-05-2009 04:32 PM #30
      yeah i did that main bushing that holds the gearlever shaft over the weekend. it definitely doesnt look like that one in the pic. its a hollow black bushing with a smaller orange one in the middle. don't know if that matters but it was a huge bitch getting the exhaust off. mostly because it was all welded definitely worth it tho, my shifting is super precise now

    31. 05-08-2009 07:08 PM #31
      It's actually a big black bushing that fits directly to the box, with a hard spherical bushing inside, with the softer orange bushing inside that. With any luck you should be able to remove the orange bushing and avoid the $32 cost from the dealer or vendor for the whole assembly. I found all this out by breaking mine while getting it out, so I took it apart to see exactly what was there.

    32. 08-06-2009 10:31 AM #32
      Thanks for the writeup and the encouragement to move thru this job...not really an easy one, but better than paying a dealer to it...

      I changed the ball and socket in the shift box on my '89...it all went well, but I'm having a hard time shifting into first gear. All the others seem smooth.

      What are the steps to adjust the shift lever so all gears move in and out smoothly...thanks ahead...

      Ral


    33. 10-30-2009 04:58 PM #33
      I just did mine.

      Here is what I found that might help others -

      1. in order to get the big orange bushing into the bracket, use a flat screwdriver and work the slot on the orange bushing into the bracket with the screwdriver like you would put a tire on - start in one spot and work your way around. There was NO WAY that I could have beat the bushing into the bracket with a hammer without destroying the bracket.

      2. I didnt need an alignment tool at all. Just mark the selector lever (that the ball goes into) that the clamp clamps down to the shaft, and the shaft itself so that you know where they go back together. I used a flat screwdriver, and scratched two lines that showed where on the rotation the selector lever goes on the shaft, and one line on the shaft to show how far onto the shaft the selector lever goes. When I put it back together, I just lined up the scratched lines. I did have to make a *very* minor adjustment to get it perfect, but this was quick and easy and required no alignment tool.

      3. I didnt have any grease on hand to grease the orange bushing. That would be a good thing to have on hand when you are doing this project, so that you can fill the inside of the bushing with grease.

      4. My kit didnt come with a new ball for the relay shaft. Thats now where most of the play is in mine. Ill replace it when I get a chance, but it was the large orange bushing being worn out that was preventing me from getting into 5th, and thats fixed, so I am happy for the moment.

      5. Be REALLY CAREFUL with the white plastic connectors on the ends of the relay rod - they would be very easy to break. I also couldnt get the replacement washers that go under them over the metal balls - the holes were much smaller than the original washers. Id skip that part if your old washers look good and avoid any chance of breaking the clips.

      Good luck!


    34. Member vwguin's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 12th, 2002
      Location
      NJ
      Posts
      5,905
      Vehicles
      2 1993 Corrado VR6s, 06 Tacoma, 05 Highlander, 2 93 Civic HBs
      02-15-2010 10:34 AM #34

    35. Member dkashbmx's Avatar
      Join Date
      Apr 16th, 2009
      Location
      East Peoria IL
      Posts
      3,159
      Vehicles
      91 GTI, 90 GTI, 98 GTI, 07 TRD Tacoma
      02-15-2010 11:56 AM #35
      getting the ball housiing out to change the ball and the housing was prolly the most frustrating thing ive ever done! P.S i left the shift rod in so it was a tight squeeze

    Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

    Posting Permissions

    • You may not post new threads
    • You may not post replies
    • You may not post attachments
    • You may not edit your posts
    •