Pioneer AVIC-D3 DIY

[dirtymanpon]

Quote, originally posted by ThatGuyRyan »

I've decided the dimming function is annoying in most cases and only rarely would I like it to actually be dim, but I don't want to do away with it altogether. I was just wondering, would it be possible to have the ILL wire go to pin 9 (NSL) on the headlight switch so that I can use the rear fog function of my euro switch to turn dimming on and off as desired since I don't use it for an actual rear fog? It seems to me I would just need the wire (pn 000-979-133) used for the rear fog install to be connected to the ILL wire. TIA

Same question, but I was wondering can you hook it up to pin 8 on the switch connector? I am already rocking the lighted jetta vents and boost gauge off that wire. How much can it handle? Will the deck draw that much?

[SLICK_VW]

I hate to bump an old thread and for that i apologize, but i have a quick Q.
To get it flush mounted, could you just shave back the inside of black plastic that supports the cage? Or do you have any other suggestions.
Besides that, great write-up!

[dirtymanpon]

Quote, originally posted by SLICK_VW »

I hate to bump an old thread and for that i apologize, but i have a quick Q. To get it flush mounted, could you just shave back the inside of black plastic that supports the cage? Or do you have any other suggestions. Besides that, great write-up!

Did you even read through all the pages. The answer is on Page 2.

[SLICK_VW]

sorry man, i'm new to the forum and didn't notice the different pages but yes i just read through. thanks!

[SLICK_VW]

bump!

[PGas32]

I have a couple of quick questions on my AVIC-F700 install...first off, I can't find the brown key harness wire coming out of the column...any advice there?

Also, where does the blue wire coming off of the antenna adapter go? And I assume that the ground coming off the unit goes straight into the harness, and that I can splice the mute and parking brake wires directly into the black ground wire? Finally, any hints on where the find a reverse signal? I took the dead pedal off, but I'm not having much luck finding the black/blue wire down there.

Thanks for bearing with a rookie

Quote, originally posted by GomobileR32 »

The next wire is an ignition source. Many people will often go to the last 10mm nut on the distribution block labeled '75x'. While this is a safe location, I usually only suggest that as a source for radar detectors. The reason being is that it only shows power when the key is on. The original radio is nice that it turns on when the key is moved to the on position and stays on even after the key is moved back to the 'off' position. It turns off only when the key is removed from the key cylinder. An aftermarket radio can be made to function the same way, but it requires you to tap into the key sense circuit at the key harness. The key harness can be found exiting the black plastic column cover at the upper left hand side. Disassembling the driver's underside dash will gain you access to that wire. In the next 'weird perspective' picture of mine that no doubt many have seen, you'll see the Brown/Red pulled out, looped, and ripe and ready to be tapped into. (Don't forget to throw an inline 5 amp fuse on it and then route your wire into the radio cavity for the radio)

[SLICK_VW]

Quote, originally posted by PGas32 »

first off, I can't find the brown key harness wire coming out of the column...any advice there?

it's there. i have an 04 GTI and it's most certainly there.

Quote, originally posted by PGas32 »

Also, where does the blue wire coming off of the antenna adapter go? And I assume that the ground coming off the unit goes straight into the harness, and that I can splice the mute and parking brake wires directly into the black ground wire? Finally, any hints on where the find a reverse signal? I took the dead pedal off, but I'm not having much luck finding the black/blue wire down there.

blue wire goes to your ignition source (which you can't find).
as for splicing everything into the ground to bypass the unit, you need to actually insert the mute wire into the pin hole above the mute wire. as for the reverse wire, shouldn't you be able to pop off the center console and find a wire at the shifter?

[wfturner]

I followed Gregs great advice and expertise when installing my AVIC-D3 and it was spot on.
If he were in town, I'd buy him dinner.

[PGas32]

Quote, originally posted by SLICK_VW »

it's there. i have an 04 GTI and it's most certainly there. blue wire goes to your ignition source (which you can't find). as for splicing everything into the ground to bypass the unit, you need to actually insert the mute wire into the pin hole above the mute wire. as for the reverse wire, shouldn't you be able to pop off the center console and find a wire at the shifter?

I figured most of it out along the way. The Brown/Red was there, but it wasn't visible without rotating the cluster of wires.

Still never found a reverse wire, or a wire to splice the 'ILL' wire into, in order to dim the lights at night.

[SLICK_VW]

Quote, originally posted by PGas32 »

I figured most of it out along the way. The Brown/Red was there, but it wasn't visible without rotating the cluster of wires. Still never found a reverse wire, or a wire to splice the 'ILL' wire into, in order to dim the lights at night.

look in the drivers kick panel for the reverse. there's should be a wire there going to the taillights. call bestbuy or circuit city and ask them what wire it should be.

[GabeB@GNGmotorsports]

I know Greg isn't on here every day (like the rest of us nerds are LOL). PM him- that way he sees your question as he logs in. He has always been helpful via PM's!

for Greg!!!

-Gabe

[Balomo41]

can this installation be used for Avic Z2 too?
mine came in today and ready to put it into my 2002 VW GTI !
Thanks for great help to DIY

[MI_canuck]

Big to GoMobileR32.... The key sense approach worked like a charm on my car!!! Installed a single DIN Alpine and the red/brown wire was very easy to find and splice into... Since there is a small red/brown (which is the correct one, in the upper left corner of the purple connector) and a larger brown/red wire, I just tested each with a meter to make sure I had the right one... Sure enough, the small red/brown provides 12V (actually like 14-15V) when key is on, and also when turned off but left in the ignition slot... goes to 0V as soon as you pull the key... Stays at 0V when you put the key... and then goes to 12V when Key is turned to ON or ACC... So slick... works just like OEM

cheers

[ajsnow6234]

Reviving this year old thread because it was helpful and relevant to me. Just adding some personal pictures. I know my trim/plastic looks like garbage. I'll be sanding/painting that soon.

Installed the AVIC-z120BT, June 2010 model.













So, I did this in kind of a rush...but a couple notes:

Yes I could have made it a lot more flush like others, but I do not know if I will keep this deck in the Jetta for years or not so I didn't cut up all the plastic.

I did used the 75x post for the ignition/switched wire...however I will soon be rerunning the GPS antenna and will tap into the key sense wire.

I did do the parking break bypass...easy peasy.

[Fuelrat]

Holy revival of an old thread. I used this DIY to install a Pioneer AVIC-X910BT in my MkIV Jetta.
Everything works as OP described. Great write up, great pics.

One issue.... The airbag warning light is on.
Could it be an issue with the seats being disconnected/removed?

[KA045GLI]

As promised, here's the DIY AVIC D3 thread covering some of the basics of the install.

In this thread I'm only covering the install done with the Pioneer ADT-VA133 Double-DIN Installation Kit. This is an installation 'cage' available from Pioneer that makes it possible to easily install it in the MK4 dashboard. The cage allows a fairly flush mounting for the radio, but for those of you interested in a completely flush appearance, the radio will have to be custom mounted in another fashion that is too long and complicated for a thread and not recommended as a DIY, (and I'd be more than happy to suggest a professional for that job ).

Begin by removing the factory head unit. Insert the keys in all four corners with the angled sides of the keys facing inwards. I point this out because this is a pretty common mistake made. The release tabs inside the radio are pretty delicate and if they get bent from improper insertion or using some 'home-made' keys, taking out the radio becomes a real chore and the dash needs to be disassembled to get it out at that point (and good luck with that one).

The connector at the back of the radio has a release that needs to be 'pinched' (like a 'loaf') so the locking arm can be swung open to unplug the connector.

After pulling the radio, it's time to start looking for some of the other wires we'll need for the install not found behind the radio...(But first, a little 2010 UPDATE- At the time of this original thread, many radio installation CAN BUS interfaces either did not exist, or they were prohibitively expensive. Nowadays, we can get an installation harness/interface that provides power, lights, VSS, etc., making the rest of this thread unecessary! Go to ENFIG CAR STEREO.com and look 'em up! It will save a bit of installation time!)

While it's completely optional, it's still a good idea to grab a parking light wire so the D3's display will dim at night and not be so distracting and/or annoying. The Gray/Purple at the light switch is a suitable wire to supply power to the parking light input. Note; Only OEM navi installs should use the Gray/Blue wire at the light switch. This wire is for the dash lights and is controlled by the rheostat. It varies the voltage supplied to dim the dash lights and while it's OK for the OEM navi, it's not good for an aftermarket radio.

The next wire is an ignition source. Many people will often go to the last 10mm nut on the distribution block labeled '75x'. While this is a safe location, I usually only suggest that as a source for radar detectors. The reason being is that it only shows power when the key is on. The original radio is nice that it turns on when the key is moved to the on position and stays on even after the key is moved back to the 'off' position. It turns off only when the key is removed from the key cylinder. An aftermarket radio can be made to function the same way, but it requires you to tap into the key sense circuit at the key harness. The key harness can be found exiting the black plastic column cover at the upper left hand side. Disassembling the driver's underside dash will gain you access to that wire. In the next 'weird perspective' picture of mine that no doubt many have seen, you'll see the Brown/Red pulled out, looped, and ripe and ready to be tapped into. (Don't forget to throw an inline 5 amp fuse on it and then route your wire into the radio cavity for the radio)

Next, we'll be scouring the countryside for that elusive animal known as the 'VSS', from Latin term for vehicle speed sensor.

The search begins behind the instrument cluster... *cue the ominous music*

Pulling out the cluster can be achieved by pulling out the little trim panel below it. Now, you can just pull it straight out and you may get lucky and not break its tabs, (trust me, I've seen people break them all the time) but since you have the lower dash removed already, you can reach up with a pick tool and pull on the little tabs that keep the locked in. (sorry guys, no pictures here as I forgot to take one) Once that panel is removed, you can access the two torx screws at the bottom that secure the cluster.

On the back of the cluster you'll see a blue connector and a green connector. They're released by moving the locking levers in a similar fashion as the radio's release arm. In the harness going to the Blue connector you'll be looking for a Blue/white stripe wire as seen here;

Solder ONLY, (not wrap, nor use ANY connectors on the VSS wire) The wire you'll be soldering on the Blue/White is the Pink wire from the D3. Run that down and back into the radio cavity, and VOILA!, you now have your speed sense wire done.
Another quick note here...The D3 will operate just fine without a speed sense wire. The wire however, will make the navigation function much faster and more accurately, so you're better off hooking it up.
Yet one more quick but important note (boy, these quick notes are getting annoying) DO NOT turn on your ignition while the cluster is unplugged. This causes a break in the CAN BUS chain and will trigger every fault known to man kind, (so many faults, the check engine light will be on in the Chevy parked next to your car). So unless you like your cluster looking like a Christmas tree on December 25th, leave your keys across the room.

While we have the cluster out, (and not turning on the key), we'll hide the GPS antenna. Its got a magnet on the bottom, so it can be stuck on the metal cross member behind the cluster. You can see the little SOB hiding in the back in this pic;

OK, we got all of our wires and I can see the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel...I think.

Christian at enfig supplies the harness adapter and antenna adapter needed to connect to the factory radio harness. It's straight forward and just requires the installer to match up the speaker wires color for color, so no real detail is needed here, so let's just go to the actual radio mounting.

First, look into the back of the radio cavity. There's a support for the OEM radio back there. Cut it out so you get a little more depth and clearance for connectors, wire, etc and to just plain be a little less of a PIA. When removed, the cavity should look clean, like this;

Fit the cage from the installation kit into the cavity... and now we hit another problem. There's no edge to catch with the cage's tabs that are to be bent outwards. The tabs are there to secure the cage to the cavity. With the cage in there, with a scribe tool, mark where the tabs are;

Remove the cage and the fun begins. With a dremel, cut the holes along the sides that will allow the tabs to bend into and secure the cage.

Place the cage back in, bend the tabs out and the cage is now secured.

Mount the side brackets as described in the instructions to the side of the radio and move on to the last steps...

Connect all your wires into the radio, push it into the cage and secure it on all four corners with the little screws that come with the install kit. A bezel comes with the kit and once you put that on, test the operation, then, you can open up your beer in celebration.

When you're all done, it should look like this;

...Or, if one was to get a little creative, paint the black bezel and add a black Climatronic bezel, it would look like this...

It sits fairly flush as seen in the next pic, but if you want it to sit in there tighter, you'll have to come and see me and leave it to us who actually do this type of thing for a living.

Good luck guys! and enjoy your D3, it's an amazing little piece of technology.

Modified by GomobileR32 at 11:45 AM 3-19-2007


Modified by GomobileR32 at 10:28 PM 4-5-2007

great DIY!!! This help a ton!!!

[ajsnow6234]

great DIY!!! This help a ton!!!

Did you really have to quote the whole damn thing? geez.

[Teh_Chris]

Did you really have to quote the whole damn thing? geez.

MUHAHAHAHA .....

[kiva]

EDIT: turns out whatever he did reset the 'unlock when remove key' in the comfort module. VCDS fixed it.

Disregard.

---------
since this thread continues to live..on my 2003 mkiv jetta...

I have a f90-bt that was installed by previous owner. I think he was tapped into the 75x for power (it only had power when ACC was on, would turn off after turning the engine off). I wanted it to function like the factory radio and go off when removing the key.

I took it to a pro (no way I was digging around that far under the dash. After a i got home, the unit stays on after turning off the engine, but now, when I remove the key, the unit turns off (correct), but the doors no longer unlock.

What gives? My guess is that they guy will figure it out, but what could have have possibly done? In our brief phone conversation, he seemed to think that, perhaps, with the radio on, it still thinks the circuit is completed and won't activate the door unlock?

I like to be an informed customer, so if anybody has any insight, that would be grand.

If it matters, the f90-bt doesn't have a separate power button.

thanks

matt

I have a couple of quick questions on my AVIC-F700 install...first off, I can't find the brown key harness wire coming out of the column...any advice there?

Also, where does the blue wire coming off of the antenna adapter go? And I assume that the ground coming off the unit goes straight into the harness, and that I can splice the mute and parking brake wires directly into the black ground wire? Finally, any hints on where the find a reverse signal? I took the dead pedal off, but I'm not having much luck finding the black/blue wire down there.

Thanks for bearing with a rookie

Quote, originally posted by GomobileR32 »

The next wire is an ignition source. Many people will often go to the last 10mm nut on the distribution block labeled '75x'. While this is a safe location, I usually only suggest that as a source for radar detectors. The reason being is that it only shows power when the key is on. The original radio is nice that it turns on when the key is moved to the on position and stays on even after the key is moved back to the 'off' position. It turns off only when the key is removed from the key cylinder. An aftermarket radio can be made to function the same way, but it requires you to tap into the key sense circuit at the key harness. The key harness can be found exiting the black plastic column cover at the upper left hand side. Disassembling the driver's underside dash will gain you access to that wire. In the next 'weird perspective' picture of mine that no doubt many have seen, you'll see the Brown/Red pulled out, looped, and ripe and ready to be tapped into. (Don't forget to throw an inline 5 amp fuse on it and then route your wire into the radio cavity for the radio)

[Teh_Chris]

ok so i need some help i plugged in the harnesses and connected everything but the power wire and when i plugged in the power harness the avic cut on without the keys in and without me pressing any buttons and wouldnt cut off untill i unplugged the harness ... any ideas ?

[ajsnow6234]

Sounds like you have a wiring issue with your harness...Might want to re-evaluate all the splices you've done.

Certainly not an expert but you may have the ignition wire connected to a 12v constant (battery).

[Fuelrat]

Pull out the Stereo, check that the YELLOW 12v Constant wire is connected to the harness, make sure the RED 12v Switched wire IS NOT connected at the harness. Instead, connect the RED 12v Constant to either the 75X terminal or to the Key sense wire as pointed out by OP.

This is assuming you are installIng in a mk4.

[Teh_Chris]

Pull out the Stereo, check that the YELLOW 12v Constant wire is connected to the harness, make sure the RED 12v Switched wire IS NOT connected at the harness. Instead, connect the RED 12v Constant to either the 75X terminal or to the Key sense wire as pointed out by OP.

This is assuming you are installIng in a mk4.

yeah i pulled the harness back out and peeked at it and it was the red wires ... its all working now .... now i just need to find 8 screws to to bolt the bracket to the headunit .... anyone know where i can get some since i bought my d3 and bracket used and it didnt come with em

[Fuelrat]

Go to your local car audio dealer and tell them what you've got.
They should have the small machine screws needed to finish your installation.
If not, you can also check at an electronics store. You would probably need to take one of the plates with you so they can match up the appropriate thread pitch and length.

[Teh_Chris]

Go to your local car audio dealer and tell them what you've got.
They should have the small machine screws needed to finish your installation.
If not, you can also check at an electronics store. You would probably need to take one of the plates with you so they can match up the appropriate thread pitch and length.

Good Idea

[Teh_Chris]

got it installed and running fine except the ipod does not play any sound ... it detects that theres an ipod there and even has all my songs it acts like everything is fine and the Ipod Yellow/red/white wires are all plugged into the INPUT Yellow/red/white wires .... any ideas ??

[Fuelrat]

I've got an AVIC-X910BT and I'm not sure which head unit you installed.
But on the 910 you have to go into the A/V settings and change the "Vid.1" source to "iPod".
Go through your source settings and you're sure to find the cause.

[Teh_Chris]

I've got an AVIC-X910BT

go into the A/V settings and change the "Vid.1" source to "iPod".

Ive Got A AVIC-F900BT , And The VID1 Option Was Teh Fix ... Thanks Bud

[Rmeitz167]

having problems getting my drivers side speaker to work. Previous owner had installed the headunit, im trying to fix its issues haha. Wandering if anyone can point out which exact wire is the drivers side speaker wire in the harness. thankss

[SpaceGhost711]

BUMP

Another one year revival. Will be installing a Jensen 9224BT very soon. This is a very nice DIY. Only question I have is I'm looking for a way to tap into the reverse light signal for the camera. Also, I'm sure it's out there but do I just need to ground the parking brake signal wire to bypass it?

Many Thanks!

[SpaceGhost711]

Nevermind the parking brake bypass.

1: Go into AM/FM mode
2: Hit "setup" on the remote control
3: Enter 543210 on the remote, listening for the beep for each number entered
4: A new menu will appear. Touch the button that has the hammer/screwdriver on it in the upper left-hand part of the screen.
5: Select Brake bypass to "ON" and hit the "X" near the bottom of the screen.

[Teh_Chris]

i know this is an install diy and i installed mine just fine over a year ago but has anyone had this issue or know what would be the cause .... when i turn the car on the head unit starts to boot up , it goes for about 20 seconds and then shuts off . i didnt do anything at all to the car this weekend , not even drive it .... parked it friday night and went to start it monday and it did this .