As promised, here's the DIY AVIC D3 thread covering some of the basics of the install.
In this thread I'm only covering the install done with the Pioneer ADT-VA133 Double-DIN Installation Kit. This is an installation 'cage' available from Pioneer that makes it possible to easily install it in the MK4 dashboard. The cage allows a fairly flush mounting for the radio, but for those of you interested in a completely flush appearance, the radio will have to be custom mounted in another fashion that is too long and complicated for a thread and not recommended as a DIY, (and I'd be more than happy to suggest a professional for that job ).
Begin by removing the factory head unit. Insert the keys in all four corners with the angled sides of the keys facing inwards. I point this out because this is a pretty common mistake made. The release tabs inside the radio are pretty delicate and if they get bent from improper insertion or using some 'home-made' keys, taking out the radio becomes a real chore and the dash needs to be disassembled to get it out at that point (and good luck with that one).
The connector at the back of the radio has a release that needs to be 'pinched' (like a 'loaf') so the locking arm can be swung open to unplug the connector.
After pulling the radio, it's time to start looking for some of the other wires we'll need for the install not found behind the radio...(But first, a little 2010 UPDATE- At the time of this original thread, many radio installation CAN BUS interfaces either did not exist, or they were prohibitively expensive. Nowadays, we can get an installation harness/interface that provides power, lights, VSS, etc., making the rest of this thread unecessary! Go to ENFIG CAR STEREO.com and look 'em up! It will save a bit of installation time!)
While it's completely optional, it's still a good idea to grab a parking light wire so the D3's display will dim at night and not be so distracting and/or annoying. The Gray/Purple at the light switch is a suitable wire to supply power to the parking light input. Note; Only OEM navi installs should use the Gray/Blue wire at the light switch. This wire is for the dash lights and is controlled by the rheostat. It varies the voltage supplied to dim the dash lights and while it's OK for the OEM navi, it's not good for an aftermarket radio.
The next wire is an ignition source. Many people will often go to the last 10mm nut on the distribution block labeled '75x'. While this is a safe location, I usually only suggest that as a source for radar detectors. The reason being is that it only shows power when the key is on. The original radio is nice that it turns on when the key is moved to the on position and stays on even after the key is moved back to the 'off' position. It turns off only when the key is removed from the key cylinder. An aftermarket radio can be made to function the same way, but it requires you to tap into the key sense circuit at the key harness. The key harness can be found exiting the black plastic column cover at the upper left hand side. Disassembling the driver's underside dash will gain you access to that wire. In the next 'weird perspective' picture of mine that no doubt many have seen, you'll see the Brown/Red pulled out, looped, and ripe and ready to be tapped into. (Don't forget to throw an inline 5 amp fuse on it and then route your wire into the radio cavity for the radio)
Next, we'll be scouring the countryside for that elusive animal known as the 'VSS', from Latin term for vehicle speed sensor.
The search begins behind the instrument cluster... *cue the ominous music*
Pulling out the cluster can be achieved by pulling out the little trim panel below it. Now, you can just pull it straight out and you may get lucky and not break its tabs, (trust me, I've seen people break them all the time) but since you have the lower dash removed already, you can reach up with a pick tool and pull on the little tabs that keep the locked in. (sorry guys, no pictures here as I forgot to take one) Once that panel is removed, you can access the two torx screws at the bottom that secure the cluster.
On the back of the cluster you'll see a blue connector and a green connector. They're released by moving the locking levers in a similar fashion as the radio's release arm. In the harness going to the Blue connector you'll be looking for a Blue/white stripe wire as seen here;
Solder ONLY, (not wrap, nor use ANY connectors on the VSS wire) The wire you'll be soldering on the Blue/White is the Pink wire from the D3. Run that down and back into the radio cavity, and VOILA!, you now have your speed sense wire done.
Another quick note here...The D3 will operate just fine without a speed sense wire. The wire however, will make the navigation function much faster and more accurately, so you're better off hooking it up.
Yet one more quick but important note (boy, these quick notes are getting annoying) DO NOT turn on your ignition while the cluster is unplugged. This causes a break in the CAN BUS chain and will trigger every fault known to man kind, (so many faults, the check engine light will be on in the Chevy parked next to your car). So unless you like your cluster looking like a Christmas tree on December 25th, leave your keys across the room.
While we have the cluster out, (and not turning on the key), we'll hide the GPS antenna. Its got a magnet on the bottom, so it can be stuck on the metal cross member behind the cluster. You can see the little SOB hiding in the back in this pic;
OK, we got all of our wires and I can see the proverbial light at the end of the tunnel...I think.
Christian at enfig supplies the harness adapter and antenna adapter needed to connect to the factory radio harness. It's straight forward and just requires the installer to match up the speaker wires color for color, so no real detail is needed here, so let's just go to the actual radio mounting.
First, look into the back of the radio cavity. There's a support for the OEM radio back there. Cut it out so you get a little more depth and clearance for connectors, wire, etc and to just plain be a little less of a PIA. When removed, the cavity should look clean, like this;
Fit the cage from the installation kit into the cavity... and now we hit another problem. There's no edge to catch with the cage's tabs that are to be bent outwards. The tabs are there to secure the cage to the cavity. With the cage in there, with a scribe tool, mark where the tabs are;
Remove the cage and the fun begins. With a dremel, cut the holes along the sides that will allow the tabs to bend into and secure the cage.
Place the cage back in, bend the tabs out and the cage is now secured.
Mount the side brackets as described in the instructions to the side of the radio and move on to the last steps...
Connect all your wires into the radio, push it into the cage and secure it on all four corners with the little screws that come with the install kit. A bezel comes with the kit and once you put that on, test the operation, then, you can open up your beer in celebration.
When you're all done, it should look like this;
...Or, if one was to get a little creative, paint the black bezel and add a black Climatronic bezel, it would look like this...
It sits fairly flush as seen in the next pic, but if you want it to sit in there tighter, you'll have to come and see me and leave it to us who actually do this type of thing for a living.
Good luck guys! and enjoy your D3, it's an amazing little piece of technology.
Modified by GomobileR32 at 11:45 AM 3-19-2007
Modified by GomobileR32 at 10:28 PM 4-5-2007