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    Thread: DIY: Highline CECM Swap

    1. 04-09-2007 07:51 PM #1
      DIY: Highline CECM Swap
      by the.ronin

      This document is for informational purposes only. Any vehicle modifications should be done by a certified VW mechanic. Neither the author nor this site will be held liable for actions taken resulting from the information set forth herein.

      The retrofit should take you no more than one (1) hour. This DIY will show you how to swap out the central electronics control module (CECM). The reason for upgrading to a highline CECM from a lowline CECM include the ability to retrofit fog lights and HIDs appropriately as well as having a great pickup line at cocktail parties. This is what a CECM looks like:


      The following links to Ross Tech’s website provide a comprehensive list of CECM part numbers and their high/lowline designations:

      http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c...9.lbl
      http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-c...9.lbl

      Parts Needed

      Highline CECM

      Tools Needed

      * Required tools. All others will just make your life a whole heck of a lot easier.

      * VAG-COM and Hex+CAN cable
      * Wrench 10 mm (to remove battery connector)
      * T20 torx bit
      Trim Tool
      Precision flathead screwdriver 2.5 mm or 3.0 mm
      Flashlight

      Preparation

      1. Go through each byte of your CECM (address 09) with VAG-COM and take note of each bit marked or unmarked. Best way is to just take an image capture or screenshot of each byte screen. This will allow you to go through each bit with the highline CECM and ensure that the long coding is precisely carried over.

      2. Note the relay configuration of the highline CECM in case your stock configuration is in any way different (unlikely). Best way is to just snap a photo.

      Procedure

      3. Pop the hood and disconnect the negative (-) battery cable using the 10 mm wrench.

      4. Pry off the fuse box panel in the dash using the trim removal tool or flathead screwdriver.


      5. Remove four (4) T20 screws in the footwell. The two (2) indicated in red will release the footwell plating and the two (2) indicated in blue (one outside of photo) will partly release the light switch / dimmer fascia.


      6. With the footwell plating lowered, detach the footwell lighting harness and the OBD harness. The lighting harness is detached by squeezing on the sides and pulling out. The OBD harness is latched into place with one (1) hook on top and two (2) on the bottom. Use a small flathead screwdriver to unlatch the three (3) hooks.


      7. Remove the light switch by pushing in; turning right (it will not turn much); and pulling out in one motion. Unlatch the light switch harness by pushing down on the clip and pulling out.

      8. Remove the T20 screw inside the empty light switch socket inside the top portion of the socket.

      9. The last T20 screw securing the light switch / dimmer fascia is located under the left end of the steering wheel trim lining the instrument cluster. Carefully pull on the trim to unlatch it and reveal the T20 screw. Unlock the steering wheel and adjust accordingly to provide more space to work in. Be careful with the latches – they can scratch your instrument cluster.


      10. With the four (4) screws securing the light switch / dimmer fascia removed, you can proceed to carefully remove the entire fascia. Note the dimmer switch wiring harness which needs to be unlatched.


      11. Dig the ghetto rear fog harness job. This is a prime example of how not to thread a rear fog harness.


      12. The CECM is located underneath the dash just above the hood release lever. Two red levers need to be pulled towards the hood release lever to unlock the wiring harnesses for removal. See step #14 for where these red levers are situated.


      13. There are eleven (11) wiring harnesses in all that need to be unlatched. The images below show the latching mechanisms (blue arrows) of some of the connectors as a guide. Ignore the violet / purple locking mechanisms – those are to lock the wires in place and has nothing to do with unlatching the connectors.


      14. With all the wiring removed, only two (2) clips on each side of the CECM hold it into place. Simply depress these clips and ease the CECM out of its holding brackets. It will not just drop out – you may need to ease it out being careful that the relays are not knocked loose by the edge of the dash.


      15. Insert the highline CECM into the holding brackets ensuring that the two (2) clips on either side has latched onto its edges.

      16. Proceed to replace all eleven (11) wiring harnesses. It is nearly if not completely impossible to misplace a connector since they all appear to have a unique shape. The harnesses are also rather stiff and lengthened appropriately to their location. You can also refer to the old CECM for locations of particular connectors.

      17. Proceed to re-install the light switch / dimmer fascia; then footwell plating; and ultimately the fuse box cover – in that order.

      18. Reconnect the negative terminal of the battery.

      Post-Installation

      19. As a precautionary measure, run through the CECM in Vag-Com and take note of every byte as you did in step #1. Then go through each byte and recode the CECM to your original coding. Note that certain bits may lack any descriptives. Check off these bits anyway as long as your original coding dictated. Clear any remaining fault codes.

      20. Window and sunroof adaptation should be performed after every battery disconnect. Roll down each window and the sunroof all the way and then roll up each window. This will re-activate auto up/down and recalibrate pinch detection.

      21. Drive a few meters in a straight line to perform steering adaptations and clear the remaining lights in your dash.


      That's it. Doesn’t look like much from the outside but you’re ride is now a highline CECM sportin machine. No more ghetto hacks for you.

      ******* End of DIY *******

      Thanks to maloosheck, 15DegreeJetta, Brickyward Imported Car Parts, and Ross-Tech.


    2. Banned unitedgti's Avatar
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      04-09-2007 07:58 PM #2
      nice write up! is there any benefit to put this in a gti/gli or did they come with it?

    3. 04-09-2007 08:00 PM #3
      I'm fairly certain that all U.S. spec GTIs/GLIs come equipped with the highline CECM.

    4. Member stangg172006's Avatar
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      04-09-2007 08:28 PM #4
      All cars have a CECM. This is "simply" swapping the stock non-highline one for the highline one. Some 2.5s have them and some dont. But all GTIs and GLIs do. Us 2.5 guys need this for a HID Xenon upgrade...

    5. 04-09-2007 08:36 PM #5
      Thanks for the DIY. I'll be doing this in a few weeks.

    6. Member FlyingTurtle's Avatar
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      04-09-2007 08:46 PM #6
      nice DIY
      Quote Originally Posted by jamie@vwvortex View Post
      This forum is more and more of an embarrassment every day...

    7. 04-10-2007 02:22 PM #7
      Thanks guys ... up next will be foglight retrofit - the right way.

    8. Member silverA4quattro's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 03:08 PM #8
      Very nice dude.

      Did you retro the footwell lights or did your car come with them? I kind of want them in my Rabbit.


    9. 04-10-2007 03:13 PM #9
      Very nice DIY!!!

      Have fun with the fogs!


      Modified by 15DegreeJetta at 2:15 PM 4-10-2007

      "Most 3rd row seats are in the crumple zone. That's why they're outlawed in Europe. But here in the states you have the option of putting your least favorite in the back." -V10 SUVW ClubTouareg.com

    10. Member silverA4quattro's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 03:14 PM #10
      What are people paying for these CECMs?

      $200-300? And what vendor too.


    11. 04-10-2007 03:15 PM #11
      $250 from Zeb (1stVWParts.com)
      "Most 3rd row seats are in the crumple zone. That's why they're outlawed in Europe. But here in the states you have the option of putting your least favorite in the back." -V10 SUVW ClubTouareg.com

    12. Member silverA4quattro's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 03:22 PM #12
      Quote, originally posted by 15DegreeJetta »
      $250 from Zeb (1stVWParts.com)

      1stvwparts rules, I love giving them my business.


    13. 04-10-2007 03:24 PM #13
      $115 shipped

    14. 04-10-2007 03:26 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by silverA4quattro »

      1stvwparts rules, I love giving them my business.

      Yeah, they've made some money off me!


      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      $115 shipped

      A$$!

      "Most 3rd row seats are in the crumple zone. That's why they're outlawed in Europe. But here in the states you have the option of putting your least favorite in the back." -V10 SUVW ClubTouareg.com

    15. Member nastybags's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 03:33 PM #15

    16. Member silverA4quattro's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 03:34 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      $115 shipped

      WTF!!!??


    17. Former Advertiser
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      04-10-2007 03:38 PM #17
      What a coincidence Rob. I'm installing one in a customers car today.


    18. 04-10-2007 04:12 PM #18
      Nice Rob ... it took me less than hour first time. It'll take you guys like 20 minutes.

      Quote, originally posted by silverA4quattro »

      WTF!!!??

      Salvage yard dude ...


    19. Former Advertiser
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      04-10-2007 04:50 PM #19
      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      Nice Rob ... it took me less than hour first time. It'll take you guys like 20 minutes.

      I figure. I've been under more peoples cars this past week than I can remember.


    20. Former Advertiser
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      04-10-2007 04:53 PM #20
      And for the life of me, I can't understand why VW won't just put the same controllers in all their cars. The price difference in the internals much be merely pennys. Less inventory to catalogue also!

    21. 04-10-2007 04:57 PM #21
      Haha you think that's bad?? I take it you haven't gone through the DSG shiftknob retrofit thread. Now THAT is ludicrous. At least the CECMs swap out effortlessly.

    22. Former Advertiser
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      04-10-2007 04:59 PM #22
      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      Haha you think that's bad?? I take it you haven't gone through the DSG shiftknob retrofit thread. Now THAT is ludicrous. At least the CECMs swap out effortlessly.

      No way man. Manual for life here!


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      04-10-2007 05:37 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by silverA4quattro »
      Did you retro the footwell lights or did your car come with them? I kind of want them in my Rabbit.

      You can retrofit them.


    24. 04-10-2007 06:20 PM #24
      Quote, originally posted by the.ronin »
      Haha you think that's bad?? I take it you haven't gone through the DSG shiftknob retrofit thread. Now THAT is ludicrous. At least the CECMs swap out effortlessly.


      Robert is the bomb here free bump for a guy that contributes to the community!

      2010 VW CC - current
      Before: 2008 vw jetta - gone / 2006 vw gti - gone / 2000 audi s4 stg3 - sold / 2002 vw jetta 1.8t - totaled / 93 300zx twinturbo - sold / 1990 240sx - gave away

    25. Banned jxmoth's Avatar
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      04-10-2007 06:23 PM #25
      Rob is the mother lovin' man!

    26. 04-10-2007 06:25 PM #26
      Thanks guys ... but I would click in the link in maloosheck's signature ...than you will see some serious DIYs.

    27. 04-10-2007 06:57 PM #27
      once again your the man Ronin

    28. Member Fahrvernugen's Avatar
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      04-17-2007 12:31 AM #28
      Very good DYI

      Too bad i see this AFTER i did it my self...lol..this will surely gave me more confidence in the process.

      I have a question though: Did your CECM came with a LONG CODE already or did it came "blank"?

      Also, related to this question...for those who will try this DYI in the future, make sure you know how many Bytes there are on your stock CECM vs the New one you are using. IF A CECM has orginally 23 bytes for example, when you recode it with 21 Bytes it will simple WONT accept your new LONG CODE...(Ive been there)...which means that u need to fill those 2 bytes with 00 & 00 in order to tell the CECM that YOU KNOW that those BYtes exist but there are not being used in that particular aplication. The new CECM just expects Bits over there...even when its just 00 & 00 (no checkmarks checked).


      Modified by Fahrvernugen at 4:33 AM 4-17-2007

      VDUBBER from the Caribbean...Corrado & MK5 Owner/Enthusiast.

      Visit our local Corrado Comunity here->RadoFahrer Forums/

    29. 04-17-2007 02:12 AM #29
      Mine came with long coding already in there - I did not get it new. It was from a salvaged GLI. Great advice on the bytes.

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      04-17-2007 10:24 AM #30
      Quote, originally posted by Fahrvernugen »
      I have a question though: Did your CECM came with a LONG CODE already or did it came "blank"?

      It is precoded but with some weird coding scheme. You need to recode it according to your old coding. Last two bytes of 23byte ECU are not used anyway and they have 00 coded.


    31. 04-17-2007 10:20 PM #31
      For those wondering if your module can support Fogs or not OEM style you must have a Highline module and here is a list of the current Modules and whether there high or not.


      VAG-COM Redirect File

      Component: J519 - Central Electronics I (#09)

      This file is part of a redirection package,
      make sure you have all of the following files.

      1K-09.LBL
      3C-09.LBL
      1K0-937-049.LBL

      created by Sebastian Stange (sebastian@ross-tech.com)
      requires VAG-COM 405.0 or newer

      1K0-937-049 (Basis)
      1K0-937-049-A (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-B (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-C (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-F (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-G (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-H (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-J (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-K (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-L (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-M (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-N (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-P (Basis)
      1K0-937-049-S (Medium)
      1K0-937-049-T (Highend)
      1K0-937-049-AA (Basis)


      3C0-937-049 (????)
      3C0-937-049-A (???? - Theory: Medium)
      3C0-937-049-B (Medium)
      3C0-937-049-C (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-D (Medium)
      3C0-937-049-E (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-F (Medium)
      3C0-937-049-G (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-H (???? - Theory: Medium)
      3C0-937-049-J (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-K (???? - Theory: Medium)
      3C0-937-049-L (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-P (???)
      3C0-937-049-Q (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-R (???)
      3C0-937-049-S (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-T (???? - Theory: Medium)
      3C0-937-049-AA (Highend)
      3C0-937-049-AB (???? - Theory: Medium)
      3C0-937-049-AC (Highend)
      3C0 937 049 AG (Highend)


      Hopes this helps some of you.

      List Updated. As of 6/1/07




      Modified by zonehawk at 10:04 PM 6-1-2007


    32. Member
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      04-18-2007 12:31 AM #32
      Quote, originally posted by zonehawk »

      created by Sebastian Stange (sebastian@ross-tech.com)

      1K0-937-049-C (????) I have this module and it is a Highline Module.

      send this info to Sebastian. He will update the vag-com label files.


    33. 04-27-2007 04:48 PM #33
      Update ... 3C0 937 049 AG is a highline controller is the most current version available. AG superseded S and C. The AG version is the one that 15degreejetta used in his swap.

    34. 05-15-2007 12:58 PM #34

      3C0 937 049 Q has been confirmed to be a highline CECM.

      Ross-Tech has been notified.


    35. 05-20-2007 09:35 PM #35
      Is there a way for me to determine what module I have without using Vag-Com, is it written on the CECM itself. I would hate to buy a Vag-Com, unless I can use it for its intended purpose (installing front fogs + euro tails.)

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