PICS FROM PAGE 4.....
Its basicly a Kinetic stage 3 kit, with Garrett T04 60-1 Turbo, 3"DP and C2 8.5:1 spacer. US ECU with C2 chip, that I hope will work on my Euro/Norwegian 96 Golf VR6.
Here some pics from my car. It all started with a Z-Engineering ZR2...
Then this came around....
3" downpipe and C2 OAP. 1 Muffler..
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:51 AM 4-18-2007
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:51 AM 4-18-2007
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:52 AM 4-18-2007
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:55 AM 4-18-2007
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 11:40 AM 4-18-2007
Last edited by Norwegian-VR6; 10-28-2010 at 07:38 PM.
My brake pads caught fire and flames came out off the rims. Almost hit a Audi S4 in the back, because I did not have any brakes left. So MK4 R32 brakes is on its way
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:54 AM 4-18-2007
Some photos off the car in 2006. Its in for repainting right now.
The leather seats are OEM Colour Concept. They call the car GOLF VR6 Colour Concept edition.
thanx Been doing some research, so I hope my setup will be good to go.
I guess I need to regap my plugs to around 0.24 before I put them in?
The vibration is a little to much for a everyday driver car. I have been driving them since aug 2006, and they have not been getting any looser ever since. So BFI stage 1, for me are a little tight. I dont stand a change to move the engine 1 inch.. Its so damn tight.
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 6:53 PM 4-19-2007
New summer rims came today. Forged OZ Mito 3 split rims. 7.5x17" ET35 Brand new in box
Hope you guys "and girls" like them
Waiting and waiting. Good damn Im gonna send C2 and Email, and ask them to ship my parts asap. Its the stuypid Peloquin that a friend off mine is gonna have that we are waiting for. So C2 can ship it all in one shipment. I dont care about the shipping prices right now. Just get me my headspacer and ECU
New rims fitted today.
No, Im not sure if the R32 brakes will fit. But it looks like that plan is not going to happend, so I will be running a upgraded 288mm brake set up.
Ok, so I got all the parts that I need now. So when finishing work, it was straight down to the garage to check if the new C2 Ecu was working on my Euro car. OBD2.
First we changed the injectors, and was gonna put on the 95mm maf:
Then the problem came... Look at the red signs. Plastic pins. "This is the C2 ECU:
And look at the red signs here. No plastic pins "My OEM Euro ECU"
Anyone have any solution? The Euro OBD1 ECU look the same as my C2 OBD2 ECU.........
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 3:35 PM 6-1-2007
They prevent it from sliding in, yes.
Dremel was the first thing in my mind to. But..
No answer from C2 yet...
Modified by Norwegian-VR6 at 10:32 PM 6-1-2007
Think about it this way......there is no reason why it shouldn't work and fire up the car. Since you are changing the whole ecu...the rest is/should be the same, sensors are sensors.
If those plastic pins are the only physical problem, beat the crap out of those. A worse problem would be if the pin layout is not the same, but even this can be solved by comparing both the Euro and US wiring diagrams.
Wait for C2's answer, I'm sure they can find a solution to this, you've got a solid setup in here, hope everything works out for you.
your setup is going in a good direction but i would not recommend the head gasket spacer.
in europe you guys have higher octane ratings then we do in north america. due to that fact you do not need to lower your compression ratio.
you will loose alot of response and increase your lag. i have made well over 400hp on stock vr6's and plenty of mid 300hp cars.
you sure about that man? because i'm pretty sure the reason their octane ratings are like 110 over there and stuff is becuase of how that number is given. here i believe if you read a pump and it's like ethanol*rm2/2 or something i mean i know thats off. but over in europe they just give the octane rating with the higher number. maybe thats a bad explanation, but i am positive that they use a different method for octane rating over seas. and i would definitely lower it to at least 9:1 compression if you are looking to run some decent boost. i mean there is always more than one way to skin a cat. some some ways are safer than others....
Its a diffrent octane system for sure. We use 95-99 RON gas. The quality however is better than in the US.
In most countries (including all of Europe and Australia) the "headline" octane that would be shown on the pump is the RON, but in the United States, Canada and some other countries the headline number is the average of the RON and the MON, sometimes called the Anti-Knock Index (AKI), Road Octane Number (RdON), Pump Octane Number (PON), or (R+M)/2. Because of the 8 to 10 point difference noted above, this means that the octane in the United States will be about 4 to 5 points lower than the same fuel elsewhere: 87 octane fuel, the "regular" gasoline in the US and Canada, would be 91-92 in Europe. However most European pumps deliver 95 (RON) as "regular", equivalent to 90-91 US (R+M)/2, and even deliver 98 (RON) or 100 (RON).
Z-Engineering says that 0.9-10 PSI is max on a standard VR6. HGP uses 8.5:1 on their VR6 turbo system over 10 psi. And they are THE VR6 tuner So I cant see how you could manage to get 400hp and not lowering the compression.
However, still waiting for C2 for a respond on my problem.
Calling them has not worked out, I know they have really busy days sometimes. All the pins are exact the same on US/Euro ECU. But are the censors inside the ECU the same?
I DO have a ZR2 Charger chip for my car laying around. 9 psi. Maybe that will get it going? And use stock injectors and maf housing?
If I'm not mistaken, a turbo chip is different that a supercharger chip. I really donno why exactly but I've come across many posts saying that the C2 supercharger chip won't work on a turboed car. Jeff of course will have all the answers...
As for the sensors, there aren't any inside the ECU. Think about it this way......if you wanna go standalone, all you need to wire are a few sensors like the IAT, TPS ... and you are good to go. The way I see it, unless the pinout is not the same (maybe they have the same layout but the wiring is different), there shouldn't be any reason why it shouldn't run. Of course, these are all *calculated* speculations.
Let's hope C2 can shime on this. I am turboing my vr in the coming month and I also have the same Euro ecu that you have.
You were planning on plugging it in anyway and the plastic edges are the only difference.
So modifying the ecu to fit in isn't deviating much from what you orginally intended to do.
Would modifying the piece you need to work make it so you couldn't go back?
Thats what I have been thinking about.. If I remove the plastic pins, and the ECU still dont work. Will C2 have it back?