Good writeup. I wish it were this easy to remove the SAI pump on a VR6
I was misfiring on Cyl1 one morning about a year ago after a week of raining. After the car warmed up the misfire went away and all was fine. I thought maybe my wires were bad (I had 111,000 miles) so I replaced the wires and plugs and yet the problem persisted. Around 120,000 (6 years and the stock battery was still working!) miles I replaced the battery with a red-top and the problem went away... at least i thought it did. Driving home from my mom's house in Rochester NY I hit some cold rain and began misfiring in the middle of nowhere. VAG-Com on the side of the road revealed Cyl1. The car has 131,000 miles on it! Still running strong!
Ignition coil on a 2.0L AVH but it's pretty much the same on any other 2.0 and probably the VR as well, just a slightly different part.
First thing you have to do is remove the secondary air injection pump. Well... I didn't "remove" it, I just unscrewed it and threw it on the intake manifold while still connected.
There are three 10mm bolts.
that one is hard to get to. Once you've unscrewed all the bolts you just got to jiggle it out of there. You don't have to disconnect the hoses and move it aside.
I think they were 5mm allens and that's all it takes. I took the coil out before I took out the spark wires because they're easier to get off. It's also easier if you remove that little wire organizer clip thing.
Once it's gone you can install the new one with the three allens. Put the plug wires back on and clip it back in.
You are done and if your SAI's top nut was broken you can use a zip tie
Modified by jrowny at 1:05 AM 4-24-2007
Quote, originally posted by sarge1 » Nice writup. ECS tuning cheap oil filters buy a case. there cheper then fram. do it.
yea I know, but I ran out and was going on a road trip and my oil needed to be changed so I figured it'd be okay just once.
I know this is an old post. I have a 2003 VW Golf GLS with 2.0l engine. The ignition coils went bad two times already on it for the last 6 months. I saw when my mechanic was reading the codes that showed the particular cylinder. So, I paid once and don't want to say how much (tooo much!). Now, the check engine light was on again and it was another cylinder code. I paid again tooo much.... The guy said you need to replace two ignition coil but for now one will be ok, let's see how it goes then. In about a month, the light went on, the engine was shaking when I started it.
Now, the question is I started looking on the web to buy the part myself and saw for the 2.0l engine it is the coil pack not the individual ignition coils. So, how it was possible to replace them idividually as the mechanic was telling me? Was the first replacement the fix for all four cylinders? The mechanic told me I need to buy the individual ignition coils. What I see on the web these are for the 1.8l engines. I am very confused. I guess, the only way to do it is to open the plastic cover on the block and see where the wires go??????
Thanks again to jrowney for the write up & pics. I was about to have the garage do the job, he would have charged me $150 for the coil pack (Autozone wanted $143 & tax) and at least an hr. labor at $80 per. I found this thread, bought the OE coil pack online for $53 & $10 s/h. Did it myself and saved a bundle. I did have to remove the bracket holding the secondary air intake pump to get at one of the bolts but except for some frozen bolts that I had to JB Blast a couple of times and tap with a hammer, it was a cinch thanks to your thread. Would have only taken maybe 20 min. if not for that.
Funny thing is that the same damned bolt broke when I did it, so I even did the old zip tie like you did. Anyway, running good now. Hopefully it stays that way for a while.
Last edited by ricoman50; 06-06-2011 at 07:46 PM.