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    Thread: Why is there not a comprehensive coolant flush DIY?

    1. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 03:15 AM #1
      I want to flush my coolant soon because i have 92k miles and I want to flush it because I am not sure if the PO did it or not. I have read some of the archives, but I would like a comprehensive guide so I can make sure I don't screw anything up. I know I need a 50/50 mix of g12 and distilled water. The radiator drain valve is on the driver's side. I should flush the system when the car is completely cold. I should also open the radiator overflow cap so that air can escape too I think??? Cmon guys help me out. I have done as much research as I can at this point.

    2. 05-15-2007 08:22 AM #2
      bump this up!
      I was also searching for exactly this last night !

    3. 05-15-2007 09:36 AM #3
      I too would like to know, free bump!!!!!!!!!

    4. 05-15-2007 09:57 AM #4
      I'm pretty sure I read you just run water through the system with the engine idling and allow that to flush through for a few minutes. Then drain and refill with coolant/water mixture.

    5. Member WhiteG60's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 10:17 AM #5
      Heres your DIY:

      Open the drain on the bottom of lower radiator hose where it connects to the radiator.

      Let it drain out

      Start the car and put a hose in your coolant ball and let it cycle through until the liquid coming out of the drain is 100% clear water

      Turn hose off

      When water stops flowing out freely, shut valve

      Fill coolant ball with coolant/water mixture until full

      /thread


    6. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 12:07 PM #6
      I don't want to run hose water through my engine. I might just go pick up like 10 gallons of distilled water from kroger. Are you supposed to open any top cap of the radiator to let air release or not?

    7. 05-15-2007 12:27 PM #7
      I'd trust WhiteG60's suggestion. you aren't going to get deposits running with tap water for that short of a period of time.

    8. Member WhiteG60's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 02:17 PM #8
      Correct. The water isn't going to even have time to get hot. Its gonna flow out warm.

    9. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 02:55 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by WhiteG60 »
      Correct. The water isn't going to even have time to get hot. Its gonna flow out warm.

      ok thanks man. I will try and get this done next week. Anyone know how much a jug of G12 is at the dealer these days?

    10. Member WhiteG60's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 03:24 PM #10
      I see them online for ~ $17 total. If you're going to do it next week, just get it from GermanAutoParts.com got $17 + shipping. Dealer is ~ $26 if i'm not mistaken.

    11. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      05-15-2007 03:29 PM #11
      thanks for all the help. Ive been meaning to do this for awhile.

    12. 10-26-2007 01:33 PM #12
      i know it's an old thread, but I found this DIY on blauparts.com and it seemed very thorough.......

      How To Change Engine Coolant On A Vw 4 Cylinder (1998 - On) :

      1. When the engine has cooled down, remove the Vw coolant tank cap.
      2. Draining the Vw coolant from the 4cyl cooling system:
      Remove the lower radiator drain plug from the lower front of the radiator (Vw A4, Vw Passat). Remove the passenger side lower radiator hose. Remove the outer Vw coolant hose that connects to the oil cooler. To drain the heater core you'll need to remove the hose on the coolant flange or transfer pipe located on the back side of the engine. This hose goes from the cylinder head to the heater core.

      3. After the system is done draining, put the Vw coolant tank cap back on. Carefully work off and remove the smallest hose that is connected to the top of the Vw coolant tank. Be careful, the tank nipple likes to crack and break off.
      4. With a blow gun and compressed air on low, carefully insert the blow nozzle into the small hose. Wearing safety goggles, carefully force the air out so that any Vw coolant that's still trapped in the cooling system is released.
      5. Reinstall the Vw coolant drain plug. Reinstall the coolant tank hose(s). Fill the Vw cooling system with distilled water. Start the car and air bleed the cooling system as outlined in the factory Bentley manual. Run the car until the cooling fan comes on.

      6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 until the water comes out clean.

      7. Verify that you have the correct anti-phospate anti-amine G11 or G12 Vw coolant. If it's full concentrate, mix a 50/50 ratio per the Bentley manual. Fill your Vw cooling system with this 50/50 mixture. Note: Some factory Vw coolants sold by dealers are already premixed and do not require further delusion.

      8.Run the 4cyl engine and check for any Vw coolant leaks.

      9. Top off the coolant tank to the fill line. Do not overfill.

      10. Using a permanent marker, write 'G11 or G12 Coolant Only' on the Vw coolant tank.
      11. (optional) Be environmentally responsible and dispose of your old Vw coolant properly.

      Vw Coolant System Maintenance:

      1. Never top off the coolant tank with full concentrate G11 or G12 Vw coolant. Your Vw coolant should never exceed a coolant ratio of 80%. If it's over 80% an inefficient Vw cooling system will result, decreasing flow through the radiator along with poor heat transfer through the engine block.

      2.Always top off your Vw coolant tank using a 50/50 mixture. If you're in a pinch and don't have any, use a small amount of distilled water. Remember, adding large amounts of water will change the alkalinity of the Vw coolant and throw off the glycol to water ratio, making it less effective in cold temperatures.
      3. Never mix G11 blue coolant and G12 red coolant. It will turn into a brownish goo and plug up your Vw cooling system.
      4. We highly recommend flushing your Vw's coolant when replacing your timing belt.

      found it here..http://www.blauparts.com/vw/vw_fluid/vw_coolant_engine_fluid.shtml#vw4clycoolantchange


    13. 12-06-2008 12:45 PM #13
      I plan on doing this today. How much G12 do I need to do this job? I didn't realize this was so in-depth. I pulled a P2181 code "Coolant Performance System", and just bought a new coolant temp sensor. Next step is to drain + add new coolant. Any other advice would help.

      Mike

      First 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL owned from 1996-1997 driven 10,000 miles. Next-1988 Honda Prelude owned from 1998-1999 driven 12,000 miles. Next-1987 Mustang GT owned from 1999-2000 driven 20,000 miles. Next-1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport owned from 2000-2003 driven 58,000 miles. Next-2003 VW 20th AE GTI owned from 2003-2010. Driven 135,000 miles. Next-2006 Nissan 350Z Touring owned from 2010-2012 driven 35,000 miles. 2007 VW GTI bought 6/2012.

    14. Member TmoeJ747's Avatar
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      12-06-2008 04:43 PM #14
      i would also suggest replacing the thermostat as well. you have to drain the coolant to change it anyways, and your code could also be caused by a stuck open t-stat (i believe).


    15. Member herb2k's Avatar
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      12-06-2008 09:14 PM #15
      I did mine a few months ago, because the shop that replaced the thermostat mixed some green coolant into the system.

      You only need 1 jug of G12 for the 1.8T. Mix it 50/50 with distilled water and you have enough for the whole system (and some left over for topping up).

      I didn't have to disconnect any rad hoses, since I had my thermostat replaced already.

      Simply open the drain at the driver's side of the rad, open the lid for the coolant bottle, and wait for it all to drain out. There is no radiator cap in the MK4 cooling system as it is completely sealed.

      You can do a flush with some of that cooling system flush stuff, or just flush it with hose water and engine idling (helps to have anther person to work with).

      Here's what I did:

      Drain and fill with hose water as described above. Close off the drain cap once clear water runs out of the system.

      The cooling system flush stuff I used said to run the engine for about 10-20 mins to allow it to work its way through, also make sure you run the car's heater at full blast so that coolant is allowed to run through the heater core.

      Drain out all of that stuff (it's pretty soapy) and flush with hose water until it runs out clear from the drain port (with engine idling).

      Start filling it with your G12 mixture, but leave the drain port open until you see only bright pink G12 flowing out, then close it up and top off the system.

      Make sure to dispose of the old G12 coolant properly, and you're done. Took us about 3 hours taking our time and making sure all the gunk was flushed out.


      Modified by herb2k at 6:15 PM 12-6-2008


      Modified by herb2k at 6:17 PM 12-6-2008


    16. 12-07-2008 08:24 PM #16
      thanks for the input. How big is the 1 jug of G12 I need for the 1.8T? A gallon? I see different sizes listed on ecstuning.com

      thanks, Mike

      First 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL owned from 1996-1997 driven 10,000 miles. Next-1988 Honda Prelude owned from 1998-1999 driven 12,000 miles. Next-1987 Mustang GT owned from 1999-2000 driven 20,000 miles. Next-1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport owned from 2000-2003 driven 58,000 miles. Next-2003 VW 20th AE GTI owned from 2003-2010. Driven 135,000 miles. Next-2006 Nissan 350Z Touring owned from 2010-2012 driven 35,000 miles. 2007 VW GTI bought 6/2012.

    17. Member herb2k's Avatar
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      12-08-2008 01:20 PM #17
      Yep, my bottle from the dealer was 1 gallon.

    18. 02-26-2009 08:43 PM #18
      Doing this on Saturday. Do I need to remove my front valence to get at this drain?
      First 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL owned from 1996-1997 driven 10,000 miles. Next-1988 Honda Prelude owned from 1998-1999 driven 12,000 miles. Next-1987 Mustang GT owned from 1999-2000 driven 20,000 miles. Next-1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport owned from 2000-2003 driven 58,000 miles. Next-2003 VW 20th AE GTI owned from 2003-2010. Driven 135,000 miles. Next-2006 Nissan 350Z Touring owned from 2010-2012 driven 35,000 miles. 2007 VW GTI bought 6/2012.

    19. 02-26-2009 08:58 PM #19
      No, the lower rad hose is farther under the car and has no direct interaction with the bumper/valance.

    20. 02-27-2009 07:55 PM #20
      hmmm... Is there a pic someone can point to the radiator hose I'm supposed to remove? How about reattaching it? Is there a cable or fastener I'm supposed to reattach?

      I bought the gallon of G12 and 1 gallon of distilled water. Plan on doing this in the morning.

      Thanks, Mike

      First 1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera SL owned from 1996-1997 driven 10,000 miles. Next-1988 Honda Prelude owned from 1998-1999 driven 12,000 miles. Next-1987 Mustang GT owned from 1999-2000 driven 20,000 miles. Next-1993 Jeep Wrangler Sport owned from 2000-2003 driven 58,000 miles. Next-2003 VW 20th AE GTI owned from 2003-2010. Driven 135,000 miles. Next-2006 Nissan 350Z Touring owned from 2010-2012 driven 35,000 miles. 2007 VW GTI bought 6/2012.

    21. 02-27-2009 08:30 PM #21
      Quote, originally posted by scrappy62 »
      hmmm... Is there a pic someone can point to the radiator hose I'm supposed to remove? How about reattaching it? Is there a cable or fastener I'm supposed to reattach?

      I bought the gallon of G12 and 1 gallon of distilled water. Plan on doing this in the morning.

      Thanks, Mike


      the bottom hose............theres one 2 hoses total, top and bottom

    22. 03-09-2010 02:58 AM #22
      Hey guys,

      I am looking for some diy info on draining my jetta 2.5 mkv coolant. I read on this thread that you just let the old coolant drain out of the lower radiator drain. What about the coolant that is in the engine block? does this old coolant also drain out from the radiator drain?

      I am asking this because on my previous car (honda accord), you had to remove a drain bolt on the engine block in addition to the drain plug on the radiator in order to completely drain the system. Otherwise you only drain half the old coolant in the system. which leads to old coolant left in the system. Also an improper mixture ratio of new g12 to water in the system, especially if you are flushing the old coolant out with garden hose water. either way you are screwed.

      Basically what i need to know is if you remove the drain hose/plug from the radiator does the entire coolant drain out.


    23. 03-21-2010 02:55 PM #23
      After reading through these posts it seems that when you drain the system and run hose water through, the engine will drain also while car it at idle meaning you get the bulk of coolant drained first then run the hose water and start motor and allow system to cycle through untill water flows clear. Close cooling system and fill with G12(apprx 1Gal) then top off with water or coolant.

      This Good?


    24. Member hootyburra's Avatar
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      03-21-2010 07:57 PM #24
      saving this for spring car work weekend
      CTS 3076 kit, CTS 750hp FMIC, CM FX400, 2L, AEB, RMR IM, Raxles, Eurodyne, 870's...

      Vag Scans, pm me

    25. 04-10-2010 09:30 PM #25
      Would these instructions work on a 1999.5 2.0 automatic?

    26. Member
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      04-10-2010 11:19 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by I Drive a Jetta »
      Would these instructions work on a 1999.5 2.0 automatic?


      Yes.


    27. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      04-11-2010 07:52 AM #27
      I'm going to add this even though I might be flamed.... you CAN run plain green coolant (get quality stuff though) AFTER DRAINING and FLUSHING all of the old G12 out. This way the price for coolant is less even using quality coolant, and you can get it anywhere. Again, be sure your mix is 50/50 with distilled water and all of the old G12 is flushed out clean. Keep the drain open on the lower radiator hose till all the hose-supplied plain water runs out. Remove hoses at their lowest points where possible and let the plain water flow from there as well, and keep the heater on the whole time.

      Or, flush once, refill with distilled water only, run it for 5 minutes with the heater on, drain and refill with the permanent coolant and distilled mix. This will guarantee most of the old coolant and plain tap water is gone. The system doesn't quite take two gallons or so.

      I have VCDS and located in New England, PM me!

      Four 1980 Audi 5000s gas and diesel, 1987 & 1988 VW Fox, 1980 VW Mk1 Scirocco, 1987 Audi 5000 TQ, 1988 Audi 5000 Q, 2001 VW New Beetle Sport 1.8t, 2011 VW Jetta MK6 TDI/DSG




    28. 04-17-2010 07:22 PM #28
      just finished my coolant flush about an hour and a half ago, my coolant light keeps flashing and the heat goes from warm to cool over and over. i think im gonna half to do this again, since i forgot to turn on the heater on full blast

    29. Member zeusenergy's Avatar
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      04-18-2010 01:58 AM #29
      Thats key to keep the heater on and pumping while the draining and refilling is going on.
      I have VCDS and located in New England, PM me!

      Four 1980 Audi 5000s gas and diesel, 1987 & 1988 VW Fox, 1980 VW Mk1 Scirocco, 1987 Audi 5000 TQ, 1988 Audi 5000 Q, 2001 VW New Beetle Sport 1.8t, 2011 VW Jetta MK6 TDI/DSG




    30. 04-25-2010 10:43 PM #30
      turns out i had too little coolant in the system, but its taken care of and everythings nice and cool now

    31. 06-03-2010 04:03 PM #31
      Quote Originally Posted by zeusenergy View Post
      I'm going to add this even though I might be flamed.... you CAN run plain green coolant (get quality stuff though) AFTER DRAINING and FLUSHING all of the old G12 out. This way the price for coolant is less even using quality coolant, and you can get it anywhere.
      What are a couple examples of "GOOD" coolant to use in place of the G12? I'm thinking about doing the flush too and going to something a wee bit cheaper. $30 for a gallon of G12 from the dealer is just outlandish.

    32. Member herb2k's Avatar
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      06-03-2010 04:20 PM #32
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboLover03 View Post
      What are a couple examples of "GOOD" coolant to use in place of the G12? I'm thinking about doing the flush too and going to something a wee bit cheaper. $30 for a gallon of G12 from the dealer is just outlandish.

      You can use whatever you want, as long as you completely flush out the old G12 mixture.

    33. Member filthyillness's Avatar
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      06-03-2010 07:59 PM #33
      ECStuning.com has 1 gallon of G12 (Pink) for $20+. About to order this and do my t-state and flush as soon as it gets here.

      Anybody can link a DIY for the t-state change?

    34. Member sounrealx's Avatar
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      06-05-2010 01:09 AM #34

    35. 06-23-2010 05:14 AM #35
      Quote Originally Posted by TurboLover03 View Post
      What are a couple examples of "GOOD" coolant to use in place of the G12? I'm thinking about doing the flush too and going to something a wee bit cheaper. $30 for a gallon of G12 from the dealer is just outlandish.
      If the cooling system is flushed clean of VW's G12 coolant, you could use one of the following...

      -Zerex DexCool ExtremeLife or Zerex DexCool


      -Zerex G-05


      Zerex DexCool/ExtremeLife is licensed by BASF, who holds the patent on the G12 coolant.. Supposedly G12 and DexCool are compatible (can be mixed) as they're both OAT formula, just different dyes. But a flush is always good to clean the system.

      Zerex G-05 is a Hybrid OAT and contains a small amount of silicates to minimize cavitation. Also a very good alternative.

      Zerex coolant chart
      Last edited by Cadenza_7o; 06-23-2010 at 05:18 AM.

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