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    Thread: Torn CV Boot: replace boot only or entire CV joint assembly?

    1. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      05-17-2007 05:08 PM #1
      like the title states...my driver-side outer CV boot appears to be tossing grease out of it (and maybe the inner boot too...hard to tell). should i replace only the boot or should i just do the whole assembly? i'm lowered on kw v2 and have about 55k miles on the car.

      i've heard that being lower makes the CV joints go quicker, so should i just replace 'em now?


    2. 05-17-2007 06:20 PM #2
      I just replaced my drivers side inner because I ripped it. I would say just replace the boots there only like 30 buxs, but good luck finding them because our axels are thicker than the reg. gti's. It took my guy six boots before he got the right one, even the dealer gave him the wrong boot.

    3. Member veedubb7's Avatar
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      05-17-2007 09:04 PM #3
      Just the boot dawg. It's messy as hell to do though.

    4. 05-17-2007 09:10 PM #4
      Is this a common problem. I am at 34k and my driver side outer boot is also torn. What special tools do you need to do this repair?

    5. Member E CODE's Avatar
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      05-17-2007 10:20 PM #5
      If you don't hear any clicking when you drive - just the boot is needed. I had fubared both of mine...... just got new boots.
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    6. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 09:27 AM #6
      thanks for the info so far

      ...so few opinionated people lately ...vote or die

      so how much was the "correct" boot? was anyone able to get it from somewhere other than the dealer?


    7. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 09:43 AM #7
      Do the boot and quick. Just get the OE one, comes with grease and everything and it's like $30.

      I didn't do mine and my joint went, I now have an axle all apart in my garage and it sucks.

      BTW the allen bolt on the end is a 17mm and it's a B*TCH to get off. I spent 4 hours with an impact gun set a 150psi and it didn't budge

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    8. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 09:44 AM #8
      Quote, originally posted by London Dub »
      If you don't hear any clicking when you drive - just the boot is needed. I had fubared both of mine...... just got new boots.

      Incorrect. If the inner is bad it will not click, only the outer will. My inner was TOAST and didn't click at all.

      But between 50-80mph it would shake like a bastard

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    9. Member E CODE's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 11:26 AM #9
      Quote, originally posted by BMBLE B »

      Incorrect. If the inner is bad it will not click, only the outer will. My inner was TOAST and didn't click at all.

      But between 50-80mph it would shake like a bastard

      Agreed.... but we are talking about an outer.

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    10. Member WrOzzA's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 11:36 AM #10
      Well I just went through this same thing and it ended up costing me 890.99 at the dealer in the end

      Couldnt find a replacement Drive shaft so i went to the dealer and got the rebuild kit . Picked the worst day to do it ( Rained hard all weekend )Spent a hour pulling the shaft out , Broke the Speed sensor in the process , spent the rest of the weekend trying to rebuild the shaft . Got the shaft back together and then the rain starts again . Got the shaft in finally . Put the car in gear and the damn Wheels were spinning ( Meaning I rebuilt the shaft wrong ) I was so pissed I had the car towed to VW and had them fix it . If I had to do it all over again ( Buy a Shaft from [url=http://www.RAXELS.com]

      http://www.RAXELS.com[/url] , I think its like almost 500.00 for a Brand New custom Heavy Dutie Drive Shaft that will last you forever . Or you can take it to the dealer and tell them to replace the boots for you . Regardless , if you dont know how to rebuild a shaft , I wouldnt try it on your own .

      P.S Good Luck finding a Drive shaft for our Cars at Autozone , Napa , Advanced Automotive .....I went to all of them and they could get me the right shaft for my car


      Modified by WrOzzA at 11:38 AM 5-18-2007


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      05-18-2007 11:52 AM #11
      My inner is throwing greese, Where to get a boot? Dealer???

    12. Member olddubhead's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 12:31 PM #12
      boot from pap-parts for o2m tranny= 20 bucks shipped. comes with new ring clamps, grease nut c clamp spacer and washer. labor from a good shop to install it since you need special tools for replaceing a boot only 90 bucks. front end alignment since you have to with the amount of linkage you need to take apart to get the axle out 49.95. well worth it. this seems a lot like my post that no one wanted to post any feedback on or questions. haters

    13. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 12:58 PM #13
      great information...keep it coming

      so far i've gathered:

      -outer link will click if bad
      -inner link will shake at high speeds if bad
      -replace only boot if possible
      -the AE CV joint is different from a "stock" gti cv joint (due to trans difference) - great to know because i didn't specify when i checked autozone
      -an alignment is recommended

      anyone else have suggestions / experiences?


    14. 05-18-2007 01:21 PM #14
      Never replaced an outer boot but i just replaced the inner boot. I had the idea that i was going to do it on my own but half way through taking stuff apart, i realized it was too much of a job for working on the floor of my garage.
      Take it to a shop to get it done.....will save you a lot of headaches.
      Oh, and replace only the boot....save yourself $400 or so

    15. Member olddubhead's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 01:32 PM #15
      cheapest place to get your boot is pap-parts. call ask for matt tell him you have the 02m tranny and order on the phone your not gonna find it cheaper and usually arrives in 2 days fedex

    16. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 02:33 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by London Dub »

      Agreed.... but we are talking about an outer.

      Haha good point. Glad I can read

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    17. 05-18-2007 03:01 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by olddubhead »
      cheapest place to get your boot is pap-parts. call ask for matt tell him you have the 02m tranny and order on the phone your not gonna find it cheaper and usually arrives in 2 days fedex

      2 days fedex? I'll just make the 20 min drive and pick it up.


    18. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 04:35 PM #18
      great info by all, thx

      does anyone have a link to DIY/instructions/pictures of how to change the boot? i'm confident that i can do it, but it never hurts to know EXACTLY what you're doing before you begin...i hate making custom tools at 4am


    19. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-18-2007 04:37 PM #19
      Use the info on Raxles.com on how to take the axle out.

      http://www.raxles.com/volkswag....aspx

      Instead of the 30mm nut on the end it's a 17mm allen bolt. The rest is the same.

      I'm using the bentley as my guide, and I'm doing the inner joint, not the outer joint so I don't think I'd be much more help then this.

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    20. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-22-2007 12:19 PM #20
      To update, I did replace the axle and the problem went away.

      It wasn't too bad rebuilding the axle, here's the best way to tackle it I believe. (atleast for the inner joint)

      1.) Remove axle as described

      2.) Remove dust/greese cap

      3.) Remove circlip from inner joint

      4.) Remove joint from axle by lightly using a hammer

      5.) Clean all reused surfaces from greese

      6.) Put new boot on shaft and fill with recomended amount of greese (70 grams I beleive)

      7.) Fill joint with greese then press joint onto axle shaft by lightly using a hammer (these are if you don't have access to a press) and replace circlip

      8.) Replace cap and put on boot clamp

      9.) Clean all surfaces from excess greese.

      10.) Reattach axle in reverse order of taking it out

      ----------------------------------------------------------------

      On a side note, some tips:

      1.) Attempt to remove the outer nut with car on the ground or with someone helping (push the brake)

      2.) Replace all bolts if possible, but deffinitly the outer cv bolt

      3.) Wear latex gloves, you're gonna get REALLY messy

      4.) Even if you're just removing one axle take the sway bar link off both sides. Then you can move the sway bar extremly easily.

      5.) Air tools are your friend, I highly suggest doing this with them if possible. Makes removing the inner axle bolts MUCH easier

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    21. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      05-22-2007 04:27 PM #21
      thanks for all the info ...i'm hoping to get to this on memorial day, so i'll let you know how it turns out...i do have air tools and a press and i'm only planning to do the outer, so hopefully it will go well

    22. Member BMBLE B's Avatar
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      05-23-2007 10:05 AM #22
      I wish I could help you more on details with the outer. Best of luck bro
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    23. Member foxracr95's Avatar
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      05-23-2007 12:51 PM #23
      Quote, originally posted by BMBLE B »

      BTW the allen bolt on the end is a 17mm and it's a B*TCH to get off. I spent 4 hours with an impact gun set a 150psi and it didn't budge

      use a torch..thats what i did....i got em glowing orange then hit em with a gun...came out like a hot knife in butter


    24. Member EternalMind's Avatar
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      06-28-2007 05:02 PM #24
      all the info above was great . i finally got around to it this last weekend.

      it did take a 17mm allen head, it did require use of a torch to heat it up (even with industrial air tools), i did only the boot, and it was super easy. and instead of undoing the swaybar, i just undid the 3 bolts holding the lower ball joint and swung the entire shock assembly out of the way to remove the axle.

      thanks again to all


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