The inside of my driver front tire is worn almost bald that's the only tire that's doing it and now that it's in the back where there's more camber I'm getting a bit nervous..
I'm pretty sure all the noise coming from the front is my struts.. So now I have to purchase new tires and suspension at the same time..
This was a picture I took on sunday at a local show called EuroNited
Check out the Album of pictures I took http://photobucket.com/EuroNited
Yep I'm a picture hore
Last edited by B0rin; 07-10-2012 at 12:15 AM.
Kinda new to the R32 Forum, I managed to picked up my Brothers stock R32 about 8 months ago and haven't stopped modding it since!
When i first got it with 80k mikes it needed some love.
H&R Coils went on along with a refresh kit, Front and Rear sways, Gruven camber and toe arms, VF Motor Mounts, SS brake lines, USP Test pipe, Magnaflow catback, Green temp Sensor, Rear seat delete and a BMC filter
This past week i got around to finally doing the United Flash, 17" Volk TE37's, HPA Comp Controller, Haldex Service and OEM HID's...
Shes a whole new car!
Just need pads and fluid before she gets a good track day in!!
Last edited by Jap2Germ; 07-10-2012 at 08:57 AM.
-changed the oil, filter & crush washer
-replaced missing cam position sensor bolt
-drove it to work with a smile (I usually only drive it on Fridays if it's not raining)
-Oh and embarrassed a Dodge Charger SXT on the highway
I DUB 4 FUN B!TCHES
Emptied some of its gas tank, on the way to work today
Now I have to fill it up to get back home
not fun when fuel costs 1.80(euro) per liter (8.50+ USD per gallon)
Might as well whore this out some!
All lines in the hydraulic system (brake, clutch and steering) have been replaced with SS hard lines. It takes a decent amount of custom fab in the steering system, although the only soft line on the pressure side is around 6 inches long. You need 2x16mm banjo to -6AN and 1x14mm banjo to -6AN. I would recommend the Techna Fit version as the BS companies sell a single 18mm ID with shouldered bolts. This does NOT work as you need to use the OEM bolts, especially on the rack feed (14mm) as it has a built in regulator. You also will need to build a termination point for the hardlines to go to soft, without this you will eventually fatigue the lines. I made all mine in SS.
The brakes are not too bad, I have my ABS module hidden up front so I have SS 1/4" lines running to that as well as from the clutch master. I get all my fittings through Techna Fit, Stuart has THE best selection, even if it isn't listed, he sells it.
You need bubble flare to -AN adapters. The feed lines and clutch are 1/4" (-4) and the rest is 3/16 (-3). The supply adapters are 12mmx1.0 and the brake lines are d-side 12mmx1.0 while the p-side is 10mmx1.0. The clutch fittings are all 10mmx1.0. They all terminate at the wheels with a 10mmx1.0. The 3/16 lines are not worth going SS IMHO only because the material is exorbitantly expensive. It is double the cost of 1/4" seamless SS. I would have done it but you never see them and I just didn't want to spend that much in SS line that NO one sees.
Finally I have converted the A/C system to stainless lines, this has been the most challenging as none of these companies want to work with you AT ALL. I finally gave up and just made some of the parts. The final step is the barrier hose... still have not finalized that yet.
Phew haha. If you have any other questions just ask!
Reprogrammed my FIS display.
Now have yellow display for Radio information section, instead of red like rest of MFA information.
This is in preparation for a further mod....
Also altered the warning tones slightly...much more pleasant...
...less annoying at least!
Last edited by graeme86; 07-14-2012 at 02:06 PM.
PM if you are looking for: Euro Headlight switches; RHD folding Stubbies.
OEM+ freaks click here: Graeme's Webspace - Latest Updates: Rear Fog LED in Headlight Switch using Audi parts; Passenger Footlight Mounting Bracket; Handbrake Return Springs; CC LED mod; Interior Monitor Switch Mod; Bulb Check System