well i think it's well established that heat is the enemy of these autoboxes. those of us making lots of tq under BT setups are making even more heat, and probably have more invested in our trannys, so we do what we think is necessary to get a more life out of these things. mine is finally done so here it is. many thks to igor (20v1.8tnut) who always helps me out with the technical questions i have. also thks to nyc's best vw shop - tyrolsport. although it didn't go as smooth as it could have, it ended up being a top notch install as usual.
the cooler i bought was the one you see here - http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=14087
i liked the stacked plate design and the feature that allows cold fluid to bypass the core. this should help get the oil up to temp better in dead of winter. the kit i sourced from jegs only came w/5' of 3/8" hose, so you will need to source another ~4' from somewhere. not one autoparts store i went to carried it. you'll need to go online or hit me up since i've got an xtra 20' now.
for those unfamiliar w/these trannys, the oe vag 'cooler' attempts to cool the oil by running engine coolant thru a sort of heat exchanger on top of the tranny. most of us are scratching out heads at this type of german engineering since the coolant is kept at ~190*, and you want to keep your tranny oil below ~175* optimally. so the oe cooler is ditched and replaced with something we hope will keep the temps down. anyone w/first hand experience can feel free to jump in and offer any tips or ideas. here's how it went w/my install -
bumper off and cooler attached. nice snug fit if you ask me. in front of the radiator is the best place for the cooler, but you can do a side mount if you wanted. you can't see it that well in the pics, but there is a good ~2" between the cooler & radiator
next you should depressure the system and drain the pan. this is a good time to change the fluid anyway, since you're going to lose some when you take off the oe cooler. to do this you have to disconnect the 2 coolant lines and then loosen the 2 hex bolts and it should pop off. good riddance
the coolant lines will no longer be of use & have to be tied together. i suppose you could just cap them at the source, not sure. ends up like this -
you'll need adapters/fittings to tap into the 2 ports for oil.
-6AN to 12mm like this one
*note - one of these aluminum fittings i supplied broke during install you may want to use another material.
then you'll need a -6AN 90 deg to hose fitting. i went with a russell twist lock like this -
clamp the lines to the cooler & tie it down nice nice.
the lines end up just about even or 1/4" lower than the bumper. i'm not lowered (shine springs) so am not worried about bottoming out at all, but at the same time if these lines got cut somehow it could prove catastophic, so i cut a piece of alum sheeting i have sitting behind the radiators in my house for a shield -
quick spray of black paint. remind me to scuff the sheet next time.
here's the finished product. nice & stealthy if you ask me. i'm loving the r32 bumper. besides looking badass, look at the airflow to both the cooler & SMIC
Modified by petesell at 1:17 PM 6-21-2007