DIY: 2.0L ABA Swap! New and Improved!

[buster_mk3gti]

its true everyone misses the red/yellow wire... it has a red plug on the end give it 12v and abracadabra you have fuel and spark...

i'd love more info on the cluster stuff making the tac work people say neg site but the mk3 coil doesnt have a neg side? is it in the plug harness that plugs into it.

and removing the rev limitor using the vss on a cruise control cluster...

[boostedbastid]

its true everyone misses the red/yellow wire... it has a red plug on the end give it 12v and abracadabra you have fuel and spark...

i'd love more info on the cluster stuff making the tac work people say neg site but the mk3 coil doesnt have a neg side? is it in the plug harness that plugs into it.

and removing the rev limitor using the vss on a cruise control cluster...

Mk3 coil DOES have a negative side, there is a little flap that lifts up and has two male connectors on it, one is negative, check a few pages back and i'm sure you will see where I showed someone else. Doing my tach signal this way I never had a rev limiter issue, I burried the tach on 7k cluster and never floated valves.

Also, I was running speedo cable and no vss

[renngolf]

and removing the rev limitor using the vss on a cruise control cluster...

You don't need a cruise control cluster. You need the VSS module from one however.
Connect it to the back of your cluster, and you will get a signal output at W1 in the fusebox. Connect the blue/white wire to it. Sends signal to ECU.

Some people run the signal directly from the VSS module to the ECU I believe.

[boostedbastid]

You don't need a cruise control cluster. You need the VSS module from one however.
Connect it to the back of your cluster, and you will get a signal output at W1 in the fusebox. Connect the blue/white wire to it. Sends signal to ECU.

Some people run the signal directly from the VSS module to the ECU I believe.

See above post

[renngolf]

See above post

Derp.

[South_East_Vintage]

Theres a green wire coming from the back of the fuse panel (check out the CE2 wiring website) and trace the wire the controls the tach from the cluster to fuse panel, and then take the wire that goes from the fuse panel to ecu and cut splice it into the neg side of the ICM (ignition control module), NOT the coil. (that wire runs along the firewall right behind the coil so its very easy to splice)

I'm trying to wire up my tach in a Mk2 CE2 cluster with OBD2 swap. Can someone take a photo or be slightly more descriptive about which wires to splice? I am not stupid. I tried splicing the tach into the wire at the fuse panel so I wouldn't have to run an extra wire into the bay, but it didn't work.

Also, can anyone tell me which wire in the CE2 fuse panel is the K wire? I'm trying to wire up an OBD2 connector, and I've got the Mk3 and Mk2 wiring diagrams, and I'm still having trouble finding it.

Everything else is working/running without issue. These are the last two wiring bits I need to solve. Thanks!

[boostedbastid]

Also, can anyone tell me which wire in the CE2 fuse panel is the K wire? I'm trying to wire up an OBD2 connector, and I've got the Mk3 and Mk2 wiring diagrams, and I'm still having trouble finding it.

the single gray w/white wire to the right with brown connector is the obd2 signal wire from the ecu, the other wires on the obd2 connector are power and ground, unless the car you got it from had auto trans or abs.



this is a pic of the tach signal wire

[South_East_Vintage]

the single gray w/white wire to the right with brown connector is the obd2 signal wire from the ecu

Thanks a bunch. It was so easy to wire up... I took the connector out of a Mk3, so the gray wire with white tracer matched right up. I wired both grounds to a spare ground terminal next to the fusebox and wired the B+ to a B+ spade terminal on top of the fuse panel. Worked on the first try. If anyone in the future has any questions about this, feel free to PM me.

[VoltronSBA]

Sounds like that might be one of the ignition switch wires that tells the ecu to turn on, also try jumping the fuel pump directly at the plug on the pump and see if it does anything, just give it straight power and ground from the battery and post results here. Feel free to pm me directly

Hey, When I jump the pumps they hum like they should. I was told that big red wire and the big red w/ black are just supposed to be connected. and just above the 30/30b plugs is where my red + yellow ign wire goes. I tried this and still no hum from the fuel pump. Cranks fine. Ideas? Anyone have a pic of their fuse block by any chance?
Thanks,

[boostedbastid]

Hey, When I jump the pumps they hum like they should. I was told that big red wire and the big red w/ black are just supposed to be connected. and just above the 30/30b plugs is where my red + yellow ign wire goes. I tried this and still no hum from the fuel pump. Cranks fine. Ideas? Anyone have a pic of their fuse block by any chance?
Thanks,

Pm sent

[boostedbastid]

anyone know how to wire up the cel?

[getamongst-it]

Pm sent

Originally Posted by VoltronSBA
Hey, When I jump the pumps they hum like they should. I was told that big red wire and the big red w/ black are just supposed to be connected. and just above the 30/30b plugs is where my red + yellow ign wire goes. I tried this and still no hum from the fuel pump. Cranks fine. Ideas? Anyone have a pic of their fuse block by any chance?
Thanks,


We have the same issue. Can you share some insight?

We have only had the fuel pump run when we put a mkIII relay in just to check but then it would not stop until I pulled the relay even with the key off/out so I'm guessing it was bad so it got stuck. The starter works properly but we have no spark and no fuel. We have the 30/30b plugged in with the red/yellow wire in it.

[Satur9]

What?

anyone know how to wire up the cel?

[South_East_Vintage]

anyone know how to wire up the cel?

Check 4 posts above your post.

[boostedbastid]

Check 4 posts above your post.

You mean where I explained how to wire the obd2 port? Because that's definitely the post 4 above the one you quoted...

[South_East_Vintage]

Yeah, I'm an idiot. It was a long day yesterday. Are you using a Mk2 or Mk3 cluster?

[boostedbastid]

Yeah, I'm an idiot. It was a long day yesterday. Are you using a Mk2 or Mk3 cluster?

Mk2, I found a couple of seatbelt, brake, cel dash lights

[getamongst-it]

bumping my own post. any ideas?

Originally Posted by VoltronSBA
Hey, When I jump the pumps they hum like they should. I was told that big red wire and the big red w/ black are just supposed to be connected. and just above the 30/30b plugs is where my red + yellow ign wire goes. I tried this and still no hum from the fuel pump. Cranks fine. Ideas? Anyone have a pic of their fuse block by any chance?
Thanks,


We have the same issue. Can you share some insight?

We have only had the fuel pump run when we put a mkIII relay in just to check but then it would not stop until I pulled the relay even with the key off/out so I'm guessing it was bad so it got stuck. The starter works properly but we have no spark and no fuel. We have the 30/30b plugged in with the red/yellow wire in it.

[twinrado]

This will help me with my g60 swap. So does everyone put the harness after the engine is in?

[IbisWhiteWolf]

I would plug in the harness while the engine is out, because you have much more room to work.

[bretthbmx]

I'm doing this swap right now and do I need the ABA exhaust manifold with the mk2 downpipe? Or ABA exhaust manifold and mk3 downpipe? or mk2 exhaust manifold and mk2 downpipe?

[bretthbmx]

Also, do you use the mini fuse block thing from the MK3 for this or what do you use for this plug?

[boostedbastid]

Mk3 manifold and 2 or 3 dp. That plug is for the fan control module

[bretthbmx]

Mk3 manifold and 2 or 3 dp. That plug is for the fan control module

I know what it's for, do you need the module though?

[ennui_delphian]

I know what it's for, do you need the module though?

Only if you want AirCon

[boostedbastid]

Fyi if anyone wants to run ac on aba swap they will need corrado compressor and lines which i'm about to take out of my g60

[Satur9]

Soo.. If you dont have AC in the car, you can just unplug the control module and the cooling fans still work etc?

Only if you want AirCon

[bretthbmx]

Soo.. If you dont have AC in the car, you can just unplug the control module and the cooling fans still work etc?

That's what I'm wondering now. I suppose once I get the car running I could let it warm up and see but I'd rather know now.

Also, I took both big harnesses out and there is also this smaller harness. What is it for and do I need it? Im guessing it has to do with the a/c too? It's the green plug and relay on the inside.

[bretthbmx]

Well I looked at a2 resource and it is the a/c harness. If I unhook it, will my blower still work?

Also does anyone have a PDF file of the ce2 fuseblock from a2 resource? I think I had one a while ago, but lost it.

It'd be nice to have on my iPhone.

[boostedbastid]

Well I looked at a2 resource and it is the a/c harness. If I unhook it, will my blower still work?

Also does anyone have a PDF file of the ce2 fuseblock from a2 resource? I think I had one a while ago, but lost it.

It'd be nice to have on my iPhone.

I don't think the blower will still work, I picked up a non ac heater box and couldn't figure out how to wire it up, then I found a ce2 non ac car at the junkyard and the wiring was cake. Power for non ac comes from a black with red wire coming out of the fuse box then up around the column (there was only one) then into the blower switch, then the rest of the wires on the switch run to the blower, then blower has a ground. Hope that makes sense.

I think i'm gonna start picking up this harness whenever I can from now on, seems like a lot of people use it

[boostedbastid]

Originally Posted by VoltronSBA
Hey, When I jump the pumps they hum like they should. I was told that big red wire and the big red w/ black are just supposed to be connected. and just above the 30/30b plugs is where my red + yellow ign wire goes. I tried this and still no hum from the fuel pump. Cranks fine. Ideas? Anyone have a pic of their fuse block by any chance?
Thanks,


We have the same issue. Can you share some insight?

We have only had the fuel pump run when we put a mkIII relay in just to check but then it would not stop until I pulled the relay even with the key off/out so I'm guessing it was bad so it got stuck. The starter works properly but we have no spark and no fuel. We have the 30/30b plugged in with the red/yellow wire in it.

Did you guys possibly hook up the battery with the key on?

[ennui_delphian]

Links and pictures for you folks with fan wiring questions (both rad and blower motor)

rad fan wiring when AC junk is removed



Making a AC blower fan harness work on a non-AC heaterbox

Just one for the archives as I could not find this information anywhere within the forums.

This setup assumes that you have replaced the A/C heater setup with one from a non A/C car. First thing you'll notice is that the non A/C blower is a three speed and does not use all the same connections as the A/C blower. These steps will allow you to use the factory A/C harness with the non A/C blower

This procedure was done on a CE1 harness. CE2 should be similar but some harness colors may be different. A jeweler's screwdriver worked well for removing the pins from the connectors.

First step is to get power back to the fan switch. To do this find the white three pin connector near the blower motor connector. This connector needs to be jumpered to allow the fan switch to get power.

You'll jumper the Black and Red stripe wire to the Red and White stripe wire

Test jumper installed

Next step is to repin the section of harness that goes between the main heater harness and the blower motor. Stock harness shown

This end goes into the motor. The individual wires that go to the A/C blower motor will be removed. The Brown wire will be completely removed, the Red with Black stripe wire gets cut underneath the heat shrink.

Default wiring for the harness end connector.

Modified harness end connector. Completely remove the brown wire, relocate the white wire to its location.

Modified fan motor connector. The White wire is left in its place.
Move the Red with Black striped wire to the top pin next to the white wire.
Move the soild Yellow wire to the right where the Red with Black wire was.
Move the Yellow with black stripe to where the solid yellow wire was below the white wire.

Reconnect the modified harness to the new blower motor. The fan switch should now behave where starting from the far left position; off, low, medium, high

Hope this helps someone in the future.

[bretthbmx]

I just finished my wiring on my OBD2 swap and I noticed a lot of people said there is a red/yellow wire people miss with a red connector on the end, I don't see one anywhere?...

Also, which side is the negative of the coil since the center is marked positive and the outside ones are negative..

[boostedbastid]

Also, which side is the negative of the coil since the center is marked positive and the outside ones are negative..

seriously dude? scroll up

[bretthbmx]

seriously dude? scroll up

Both of the outside ones are marked negative?