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Thread: DIY: 2.0L ABA Swap! New and Improved!

  1. Member
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    07-27-2011 10:37 AM #211
    Might have to get the Mk3 headlight switch and harness.. Unless you want to look up the pinouts of the cluster etc..

  2. Member bretthbmx's Avatar
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    07-27-2011 10:51 AM #212
    Quote Originally Posted by Satur9 View Post
    Might have to get the Mk3 headlight switch and harness.. Unless you want to look up the pinouts of the cluster etc..
    Well plenty of people use mk3 clusters with mk2 stuff. I looked up a pin out but I'm not sure which one is illumination.
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    07-27-2011 01:45 PM #213
    The bulbs are bad haha
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    07-29-2011 03:26 PM #214
    Quote Originally Posted by bretthbmx View Post
    Incorrect. My ABA had a washer about half the size of this one. This washer is from my 1.8 RV. I also remember my friends ABA having one too.

    how many aba swaps and/or clutch jobs have you done? that is not supposed to be there. the only "washer" should be between the bolts and the pp.
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  5. Member bretthbmx's Avatar
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    07-29-2011 03:55 PM #215
    Quote Originally Posted by boostedbastid View Post
    how many aba swaps and/or clutch jobs have you done? that is not supposed to be there. the only "washer" should be between the bolts and the pp.
    The one pictured is from a RV motor. The one that was on my ABA was alf the size. It was on 3 other aba's I've seen from factory.
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    08-21-2011 01:39 PM #216
    Well this is neat. I know i have a vacuum leak somewhere, my motor wont hold idle at all. My crank case vent is just about 4 inches of metal tubing that points straight down, where do i route this or is it supposed to be like that? Where else can i look for vacuum leaks? Everything on the valve cover/ Intake manifold seems air tight. Im running a mk3/mk4 intake manifold setup.

    My fuel pump was running fine off the key (relay clicked, wiring is fine, no need to jump.) Now my pump seems dead in the water. I pulled it and tested using 2 wires right off the battery posts, pump works fine, wiring/connecters are not dirty/corroded. ECU has power (as far as i know) I'm using the proper mk3 jumper and getting spark.

    Any help?

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    08-21-2011 04:10 PM #217
    Quote Originally Posted by bretthbmx View Post
    The one pictured is from a RV motor. The one that was on my ABA was alf the size. It was on 3 other aba's I've seen from factory.
    You are tripping sir
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  8. Member bretthbmx's Avatar
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    08-24-2011 05:17 PM #218
    Quote Originally Posted by boostedbastid View Post
    You are tripping sir
    Oh that's weird. I've seen a couple at the junkyard the same way.
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  9. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    11-16-2011 06:10 PM #219
    98 OBD2 ABA going into 92 GTI CE2, no A/C.

    I have the 4 white plugs, the yellow plug, and the brown ground. Is there anything else I need to keep on the wiring harness? I want to open it up and take out everything I don't need. I also see a couple groups of wires with relays on the end. I'm assuming I keep those too? Also another wire with plug for the Alarm/Clutch?

    I'm keeping the mk2 headlight harness so I just need to know what I have to keep in the OBD2 harness and what I can get rid of. I plan on running the mk3 fan wiring too but remember the no A/C.

    *edit: I'm using mk2 battery cables, too.
    Last edited by ShotgunFacelift; 11-16-2011 at 06:22 PM.

  10. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-02-2011 12:26 PM #220
    ^^Disregard that post. I could REALLY use some help here...

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...on-wiring-help!!

  11. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-08-2011 05:06 PM #221
    Third post in a row in this thread...

    Car has power but won't crank. I'm pretty sure I have every plug jumped properly but I may have missed one. I'm thinking if it isn't a missed jumped plug then it's my ECU. Does this sound possible?

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    12-08-2011 06:04 PM #222
    Quote Originally Posted by ShotgunFacelift View Post
    Third post in a row in this thread...

    Car has power but won't crank. I'm pretty sure I have every plug jumped properly but I may have missed one. I'm thinking if it isn't a missed jumped plug then it's my ECU. Does this sound possible?
    So you have a continuous line from fusebox to starter?
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  13. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-08-2011 09:47 PM #223
    Quote Originally Posted by ennui_delphian View Post
    So you have a continuous line from fusebox to starter?
    Yeah, the terminal 50 wire?

  14. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-09-2011 04:15 PM #224
    So the car runs!! It doesn't start though When I flip the key the starter doesn't even click. It just drains the voltage and then it goes back up when I let off the key. The starter power is hooked up to (+) terminal on battery. Another power runs from the same post on starter to the alternator. Terminal 50 plug is connected, exciter wire is connected. This is how the harness was set up when I got it.

    Also, fans aren't coming on. Mk2 harness for thermoswitch with the Mk3 plug and Mk3 sensor. Mk3 fan plug wiring.

    Any help?

  15. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-09-2011 05:06 PM #225
    Moved the alternator wire so it's connected directly to battery. Still no starter action and now my e-brake light comes on when I try to crank it. WTF...

  16. Member nhsccdp's Avatar
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    12-23-2011 12:02 AM #226
    I know there is a lot of info out there for this swap but i have a few questions that i cannot find,
    this is an obd2 aba ce2 swap and i am using a 97 engine bay wiring harness...
    1)what color wire is connected to z1 currently i have this powered by a jump from switched power
    it gives me power to the pump and fuel to the rail when power is switched on but i thought it was supposed to also power the fuel injectors
    2) do i plug something into y4 for motronic pin 19
    3) i do get spark when i am cranking it and can feel fuel on the return line but engine will not start when cranked
    4)how do i know if the computer is getting power properly (without wiring in my obd2 diagnostic port, i just need to move the car then ill wire it in
    5) can anyone send a picture of there ce2 box wired up properly for this because pictures are worth a million words
    thank you

  17. Member ShotgunFacelift's Avatar
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    12-23-2011 03:55 AM #227
    Quote Originally Posted by nhsccdp View Post
    I know there is a lot of info out there for this swap but i have a few questions that i cannot find,
    this is an obd2 aba ce2 swap and i am using a 97 engine bay wiring harness...
    1)what color wire is connected to z1 currently i have this powered by a jump from switched power
    it gives me power to the pump and fuel to the rail when power is switched on but i thought it was supposed to also power the fuel injectors
    2) do i plug something into y4 for motronic pin 19
    3) i do get spark when i am cranking it and can feel fuel on the return line but engine will not start when cranked
    4)how do i know if the computer is getting power properly (without wiring in my obd2 diagnostic port, i just need to move the car then ill wire it in
    5) can anyone send a picture of there ce2 box wired up properly for this because pictures are worth a million words
    thank you
    There are pictures at the beginning of this thread that may help. Are you using the headlight harness as well or just the engine harness? Z1 is injector power. I think it is a single thicker red (or red/black?) wire with a yellow (pretty sure) connector. That's probably why you're getting a no-start situation even though you have spark and fuel to the rail. I only have 3 plugs hooked up to the Y-row.

    This link may help also a bit: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html
    Last edited by ShotgunFacelift; 12-23-2011 at 03:57 AM.

  18. Member boostedbastid's Avatar
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    12-26-2011 06:42 PM #228
    Quote Originally Posted by ShotgunFacelift View Post
    Moved the alternator wire so it's connected directly to battery. Still no starter action and now my e-brake light comes on when I try to crank it. WTF...
    you have one of the ground wires hooked up to the power, one of the gounds is actually red. i think it goes directly to the coil.
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  19. Member nhsccdp's Avatar
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    12-28-2011 11:18 AM #229
    I am only using the engine bay wiring harness from a 97 jetta. Shotgunfacelift can you tell me what three wires you have hooked into the "Y" row... at the moment i only have a power going to y3. Also is your car running now... if so a picture of the rear of your fusebox would be awesome.

  20. Member nhsccdp's Avatar
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    01-01-2012 05:57 PM #230
    wow i am suprised at how active this thread is i mean i know it was started forever ago but there are still people out there trying to do this swap for the first time... i now have the car running with just a few things i need to fix such as the car still runs even when i shut it off... i think something is wired wrong...and alternator doesnt charge the battery right now.... but the big QUESTION is if there is anyone out there that reads this post and wants to help...??????anyone?????
    Last edited by nhsccdp; 01-01-2012 at 05:59 PM.

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    01-01-2012 06:47 PM #231
    Read this if you havent already.

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthrea...FLOW-SWAP-POST!!!!!!

    All the info you need is in this thead

    Quote Originally Posted by nhsccdp View Post
    wow i am suprised at how active this thread is i mean i know it was started forever ago but there are still people out there trying to do this swap for the first time... i now have the car running with just a few things i need to fix such as the car still runs even when i shut it off... i think something is wired wrong...and alternator doesnt charge the battery right now.... but the big QUESTION is if there is anyone out there that reads this post and wants to help...??????anyone?????

  22. Member DubLuv1's Avatar
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    05-03-2012 06:27 PM #232
    Quote Originally Posted by gilligan5000 View Post
    ok, first thanks for all the info. Now...there are some broken links, and some things that should be more clear that can be very frustrating while doing this swap. There are no pictures currently up about the "red with black" wire issue while doing this swap. most everything is plug and play, but the car will physically not start (with the key)until you do this:

    1. Find the black two prong plug that you just put through the firewall that has a Red, and a Red w/black wire approximately 12AWG.

    2. Get about 4" of spare 12AWG wire and crimp a male spade on one end, and strip the other about 3/4 of an inch.

    3. Plug the spade end of the wire you just made into the Red w/Black of the two prong connector...now tape the **** out of it so it doesn't move

    4. Follow the Red/black wire from the ignition to the fuse box. I believe its on plug h1 position 1...strip it back a tiny bit (without cutting it) and shove an awl in there to open it up a little bit.

    5. Take the end of the wire from step 2 (your little 4" piece of wire that you crimped the one end of) and stick it in the Red w/black that you just traced from the ignition. Twist, tape, solder, whatever you want.

    here are the pictures to show you what I mean. The car should now start unless you effed something else up...








    good luck, have fun.
    This right here saved my swap ^^

    This is VERY important and should be at the TOP of ABA swap threads. Thanks for sharing the info
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    05-03-2012 10:31 PM #233
    Quote Originally Posted by DubLuv1 View Post
    This right here saved my swap ^^

    This is VERY important and should be at the TOP of ABA swap threads. Thanks for sharing the info
    That's extremely unsafe. The 2 wire plug just needs to be jumped on it's own. Stick a 30A fuse in it to bridge the two wires and you're good.
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    05-04-2012 10:15 AM #234
    This. ^^

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    05-04-2012 10:28 AM #235
    Quote Originally Posted by vastxpunk View Post
    That's extremely unsafe. The 2 wire plug just needs to be jumped on it's own. Stick a 30A fuse in it to bridge the two wires and you're good.
    let me clarify what I meant..

    The workaround to get it running is great. The way it was done here.. not so much

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    05-10-2012 03:11 PM #236
    What has to be done to get the fuel pump to turn on? I have spark and engine cranks, just no fuel! PLEASE help!!

    TY!

    My car is a 90 GTI with ABA swap.
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    05-10-2012 03:43 PM #237
    Check all fuses. Check the relay. Check to see if it's getting power at the pump.

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    05-10-2012 03:54 PM #238
    Quote Originally Posted by import600 View Post
    Check all fuses. Check the relay. Check to see if it's getting power at the pump.
    All fuses are good, relay was replaced. There was a toggle switch on the car when I got it that was linked to the battery and pump but I took it off and wired it back to stock and now there is not power to the pump.. }
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    05-10-2012 03:57 PM #239
    Quote Originally Posted by StinkBugz View Post
    All fuses are good, relay was replaced. There was a toggle switch on the car when I got it that was linked to the battery and pump but I took it off and wired it back to stock and now there is not power to the pump.. }
    if you have spark then the fuel pump should be getting a signal, wire the pump straight to battery to see if it's good, either jump the relay or run wires to pump.
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    05-10-2012 04:21 PM #240
    Quote Originally Posted by boostedbastid View Post
    if you have spark then the fuel pump should be getting a signal, wire the pump straight to battery to see if it's good, either jump the relay or run wires to pump.
    I actually just checked spark and there is not spark either.. I just assumed there was cause the other day it "started" for a hot second and then died..
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    05-10-2012 05:05 PM #241
    Did you split power from 30 to 30B so that both are seeing 12v? Also, did you pull the DigiII ecu relay?

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    05-10-2012 05:14 PM #242
    Quote Originally Posted by TheArtfulDubber View Post
    Did you split power from 30 to 30B so that both are seeing 12v? Also, did you pull the DigiII ecu relay?
    Digi ECU relay? Split power?? pics?
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    05-11-2012 08:55 AM #243
    Quote Originally Posted by StinkBugz View Post
    Digi ECU relay? Split power?? pics?
    Don't have pics, but I can explain. The MkIII wiring harness only has one main red power input to the fuse box but you need two. You can either use the MkIII connector to spread power across position 30 AND 30b or you can splice the power connector off of your MkII harness to the MkIII wire then run both connectors to the fuse box. Without power at 30b your fuel pump isn't getting power.

    Relay Position #3 is the Digi ECU relay and it has to be pulled for the car to start (assuming you are doing this right and using the ABA Motronic ECU).

    Go here (www.a2resource.com), should reveal all the mysteries, and get yourself a Bentley for both cars.

  34. Member StinkBugz's Avatar
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    05-11-2012 01:22 PM #244
    Here are some pics of my fuse block. There are quite a FEW wires that are not connected. Like I said, I got this car basically the way it is right now.. Just getting frustrated..















    TY to all that has helped so far!!
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    05-11-2012 01:53 PM #245
    Ok, Yeah, no.

    See the red jumper wire on the fuse box? The two positions that it is plugged into need 12V power. See the big red wire that is currently plugged into Y4? That wire should plug into position 30. The power from that wire needs to distributed between position 30 and 30B. You can do that with a jumper connector that comes on MkIIIs, or by splicing the big red ABA power wire with half of the MkII jumper wire and plugging those two connectors into 30 and 30B. That is what is powering your fuel pump, hence why you have no power to your fuel pump.

    The fuse box positions I am referencing can be found here: http://www.a2resource.com/electrical/CE2.html

    The relay in position #3 (109 in your picture) needs to be removed. That is for DigiII and will cause problems with your swap.

    The black/yellow wire with a yellow connector needs to see 12v power. Preferably switched power, but running it off one of the Y posts on the fuse box will work as well.

    The gray/white wire with the brown connector is your OBDII port signal. If you have an OBD connector I can help you wire that up so you can scan for codes (there are also MANY threads related to this), but it isn't required for the car to run.

    The blue/white wire with a blue connector isn't needed.

    The cut wires used to be in harnesses and I don't remember which colors go where, they may not be needed but a Bentley or A2Resource will give you the information you need as to what they are.

    Take your time and double check ALL your connectors. If this is how you inherited the car... you've got some work to do. The PO had no idea what the hell they were doing.
    Last edited by TheArtfulDubber; 05-11-2012 at 02:00 PM.

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