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    Thread: MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures

    1. 07-21-2007 02:41 PM #1
      Well thanks to the the DIY that MRP2001GTi posted I was able to do the rear brakes today on my girls 2002 1.8t Jetta today. The DIY's that I have come across for the rear brakes are ok, but pictures seem to be missing. Threads are worthless without pictures right? I've enjoyed this forum so much and have really appreciated all the help that I thought it was time to add my own contribution. This DIY for the rear brakes with photos and won't disappear unless photobucket kicks the bucket. haha










      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

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      07-22-2007 03:13 PM #2
      Very nice. This should be added to the FAQ.
      I recommend an extra thin 15mm wrench from a bicycle tool-set since many standard 15mm wrenches just won't fit the tight space. More notes on that along with the rear caliper tools here:
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zer...11541



      Modified by phatvw at 12:14 PM 7-22-2007

    3. 07-22-2007 08:34 PM #3
      I had no problems with a standard craftsman 15mm open end wrench. Maybe certain years require a thinner one?
      Also I should have mentioned in the last picture to pump the brakes a few times before going out for a spin. Just don't want people to be surprised by the pedal going to the floor at first.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    4. 07-25-2007 07:33 AM #4
      Wow 127 views and only one person had any response? I'll just take that as a good thing then.
      Oh and something else I forgot to mention. Install at your own risk.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    5. 07-26-2007 06:50 PM #5
      Quote, originally posted by caymandiver75 »
      Wow 127 views and only one person had any response? I'll just take that as a good thing then.
      Oh and something else I forgot to mention. Install at your own risk.

      probably cause there is nothing more to say. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      BPCDubs» aka king_hil, white_rice, white_r!ce

    6. 07-26-2007 07:34 PM #6
      Nice job....one question;
      Where did you get the "Special Tool" to push the cylinder back in? I took my caliper off and using a Vise, could not get it to go back in...is it junk - or was it because the vise was likely not pushing radially straight enough??

    7. 07-26-2007 07:43 PM #7
      I got the tool from Advanced Auto parts. When you push the rear piston in it has to be turned at the same time, which is what the "special tool" does. Just use the tool and go nice and slow until you hit resistance.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    8. 07-26-2007 09:18 PM #8
      Great! Thanks.

    9. Member whizy's Avatar
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      07-26-2007 11:49 PM #9
      nice post....
      i'm having a bit problem here...
      I install rear rotors (not pads those looks fine to me)... I don't use the tool & push caliper back on the new rotors (bit struggle & with rubber hammer) ..... everything looks fine then but tire wasn't moving freely .. after test drive, Rotors & caliper was very HOT & smell bad.
      short story ... after 30 miles the smell is gone & tire spin freely, rotors won't get that much hot but now one side rotor is squealing in lower speed braking. I'm not sure that I have to reset the caliper or I have to change the pads same time or I should just use some "Stop Brake Squeal" spray...
      PLEASE HELP

    10. 08-21-2007 05:02 PM #10
      you probably burned off your pad, i had the same problem when my ebrake was stuck... now both rotors and pads are shot.

    11. 09-22-2007 12:40 AM #11
      Where did you use Anti-seize 13?

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      09-22-2007 02:30 AM #12
      Quote, originally posted by JettaGLS2002 »
      Where did you use Anti-seize 13?

      On the "holding screw" for the rotor and on the hub-rotor interface.

    13. 09-22-2007 08:54 PM #13
      ...just parked my '03 in the street after moving it around using no brakes. I've got one of the cube tools with two points ground down, but it wasn't doing squat. I mean, I'd press in and turn... and turn... and slip off and bust another knuckle... and press in some more and turn some more.
      Nothing. No movement in on either rear caliper (just to compare and make sure the driver's side isn't hosed. Either that or both are sized or just plain hosed).
      Logged in, go to the brakes forum and saw this godsend of a DIY. I'm now convinced I've got to find that caliper tool and go at this again.
      Thanks [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      - mike

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      09-22-2007 09:30 PM #14
      Quote, originally posted by sweater »
      ...just parked my '03 in the street after moving it around using no brakes. I've got one of the cube tools with two points ground down, but it wasn't doing squat. I mean, I'd press in and turn... and turn... and slip off and bust another knuckle... and press in some more and turn some more.
      Nothing. No movement in on either rear caliper (just to compare and make sure the driver's side isn't hosed. Either that or both are sized or just plain hosed).
      Logged in, go to the brakes forum and saw this godsend of a DIY. I'm now convinced I've got to find that caliper tool and go at this again.
      Thanks [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      - mike

      You can do it with the cube tool. You need to mount the calipers onto the axle with the rotors off. Then alternate between rotating with a ratchet and pressing with a c-clamp. You can't get enough pressure by just pushing on the ratchet - you need the c-clamp.

    15. 09-22-2007 11:29 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by phatvw »
      You can do it with the cube tool. You need to mount the calipers onto the axle with the rotors off. Then alternate between rotating with a ratchet and pressing with a c-clamp. You can't get enough pressure by just pushing on the ratchet - you need the c-clamp.

      Thank you.
      The original DIY I was working off of didn't mention that (plus with the pics being down...).
      Off to Carquatocheckerzone tomorrow to pick up one of those kits.
      - mike

    16. 09-23-2007 08:21 PM #16
      Quote, originally posted by sweater »
      Off to Carquatocheckerzone tomorrow to pick up one of those kits.

      Can I make one point very clear:
      Use the brake caliper retraction tool when doing the rear brakes on a MK4.
      I would go so far as to suggest not bothering doing this job without one. It was a free loan (or $35 to keep) from AutoZone, and took care of retracting the caliper piston in 30 minutes for both sides. I spent about 3 hours battling those yesterday.
      Thanks again for the help and the writeup.
      Oh, and the OEM/Hawk HPS combo just about kicks ass.
      - mike

    17. 09-25-2007 10:50 PM #17
      just got done changing my rear pads. thanks to this thread, i saved a lot of money. the tool was a free loan from pep boys. i only paid for the pads. no problem so far. I had the cube, it did not fit my piston.

    18. 09-25-2007 10:57 PM #18
      Quote, originally posted by Rico#919 »
      just got done changing my rear pads. thanks to this thread, i saved a lot of money. the tool was a free loan from pep boys. i only paid for the pads. no problem so far. I had the cube, it did not fit my piston.

      Glad the thread helped you out with the rear brake change. I've come across several DIY threads that have saved me a lot of time and money and this was my contribution back to the forum. Now go have yourself that beer you deserve.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    19. 09-26-2007 02:16 AM #19
      just opened my beer. was i supposed to lubricate anything? somebody asked me.

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      09-27-2007 12:51 AM #20
      just a quick question for everyone:
      1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
      2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads?
      3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
      TIA !!!

    21. 09-27-2007 07:29 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by Jon718 »
      just a quick question for everyone:
      1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
      2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads?
      3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
      TIA !!!

      Not sure about 1 and 2, but 3 I sprayed nothing on any brake parts except for brake cleaner or wd-40. You can put some anti-sieze on the bolts, but that is also optional.
      08 IS-F Ultrasonic Blue 11.9@120mph
      02 VW Jetta 1.8t (daily)

    22. Member bliznack's Avatar
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      09-27-2007 02:53 PM #22
      Quote, originally posted by Jon718 »
      just a quick question for everyone:
      1) How do you know if you have a seized caliper?
      2) If you compress the piston will it come back up? i.e. do i need to quickly reinstall the rotors and pads?
      3) Is it necessary to install the thin metal plates over the pads (the stuff u spray disc brake quiet on)? I didn't see any on the photos in this DIY so I'm wondering that was omitted?
      TIA !!!

      Typically with a siezed rear caliper, your brake pads on that side won't disengage when you remove the parking brake. Just happened to our Miata.
      Also, I didn't see you support the caliper when doing the work. You shouldn't let the caliper hang by the brake line.
      Oh... I just got a clue. Oohhhhh.... Ohhhph Frank! I have such a raging clue right now, I think we better follow it.

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      09-30-2007 02:32 AM #23
      Ok just got done doing one side, however i just tried the other side and my special tool is stuck in between the caliper and piston!!! I can't turn it anyway which way as I've fully depressed the piston and now can't remove the tool. What should I do now?

    24. 09-30-2007 02:38 AM #24
      You have to use wrench to release the special tool

    25. Member O2VW1.8T's Avatar
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      09-30-2007 06:30 PM #25
      If you want to save some time you dont have to remove the carrier. The rotor will come out. Now if you have studs for yours wheels you will have to remove the carrier Nice write up
      02 GTi 1.8T haldex'd w/35r-SOLD 7.3@102mph 27psi on 93 octane--04 A4 1.8T converted to AWD also- SOLD--'11 JSW Tdi 6speed Manual- Gone--
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