MKIV Rear brake job DIY with pictures

[boib]

This turorial was just great, it made it so easy. I used the caliper brake kit and it was a breeze.
I bought some pads from Canadian Tire and also rented the tool kit from them, it was free but I did
have to leave a $120 deposit, got the money back when I took the tool kit back.

[rajuncajun37]

Sorry to bump an older thread but I need to make sure that the tools and steps listed here apply to the 04' R32 as well. And that there is no scan tool needed to release the e-brake.

Thanks!

Glad you bumped it, I gotta do rear brakes on my R32 ASAP. Wish me luck

[jaso028]

I know this is old...
but on most MKIV's you can get the rotors on and off without pulling the carrier off...
it will save you a step and the possibility of screwing up the allen bolts...

I know on the 04.5's GLI's it might be more difficult to get the rotors off without pulling the carrier...

[Blue87]

I just wanted to thank you for posting this thread, I'm getting ready to do my rear breaks this weekend and its great having a thread w/ pictures included! I know its an old thread, but its still a great reference!

PS going to rent the tool from autozone - $60 deposit that you get back when you return it

[phekno]

Thanks for the thread. Did pads and rotors both front and rear. I'm curious, though, is it supposed to smell hot or burning after the initial test drive? I literally just got done doing this, so I'm wondering if I did it right. I didn't use any synthetic brake grease, but I could if necessary. The calipers seemed like they moved around pretty well on the carrier.

[germancarnut51]

Did you clean the preservative off the rotors before you installed them? If not the smell could be the coating burning off the rotors.

Did you lubricate the slide pins at all? You wrote about not using a synthetic brake grease, but did you separate the calipers and carriers and lubricate the slide pins with anything? The slide pins could be seizing (generating the smell).

Did you use a tool to retract the caliper pistons completely so the new brake pads could slide easily into place, or did you retract them only far enough so you could jam them in? The brake pad clearance is set by working the parking brake handle, after you have the rear brakes reassembled. If you didn't retract the brake pistons far enough, the brake pad clearance could be too small, causing the pads to rub on the rotors all the time (and the smell).

Have you tried lifting the rear of the car, and spinning the wheels? There should be minimal rubbing of the pads on the rotors, and minimal sound. If it take some effort to spin the wheels due to brake friction, then the rear brake pad clearance is too small, and you probably didn't retract the pistons far enough. Or, maybe the pads are defective (too thick).

[Hedgehodge]

Uhhh ****, I think I put antseize in the wrong spot. I put it on the bolts that hold the carrier and on the spindle? (After the rotor is off) I. should I wipe it off? Wouldn't that just help the rotor not stick on? Can you even misuse anti seize lol? I accidentally put blue threadlock on the rotor screw and went to put antiseize on...to late its stuck lol. W/e iboth fronts broke off (reading that those screws just make alignment easier when installing wheels again)

Should I wipe anteize off back of rotor/spindle area (not where pads touch)?
Should I put antiseize on front rotor (top of tophat part,not hwere pads touch)

[Hedgehodge]

guess ill find out ;o, about to bleed and test drive it xD

[Hedgehodge]

going to slab some antiseize on both sides lol....i did have the left rear wheel tire stick on even after the lugs were off sooooo.

[Hedgehodge]

Quote, originally posted by gNYp »

Do you need to remove the parking brake cable? (E-brake cable) THanks!

No, you can leave it in place.

Quote, originally posted by talknmime »

At what point during the install do you use the Anti-Seize, Brake Cleaner, WD-40? Do you need to put Anti-Squeal on the pads?

- Spray brake cleaner on both sides of the rotors right before putting the wheels back on. Wipe with a clean shop towel.
- WD-40 for loosening bolts.
- anti-seize for lug bolts
- anti-squeal paste - goes on the BACK of the brake pad - the part that touches the caliper, not the rotor
- hi-temp brake lube - goes on the caliper guide pins - there are two pins per caliper



Modified by phatvw at 4:12 PM 11-28-2007

Okay well, anti seize on lug nut bolts is a super bad idea haha...gf was going 50 mph and wheel started shaking and got to work and noticed they were so loose that she could move them with her fingers....When i put it on there I was like HMMm this seems stupid. Is it just me?

[isando]

hello,
I have a question or two. What is the purpose of the spring things attached to the outer side of the pads? Should those go into the slot on the caliper? I was able to get one in there but not the other.

[undwirtanzten]

more tips:
1) spray down the bleeder valve with penetrating oil before starting
2) when compression piston, it is much easier to bleed the caliper while using the "special tool" -that way you are not forcing brake fluid back thru the system. -just into your waste brake fluid container -and arguably easier your on ABS and Master Cylinder.
3) if in a Winter salt area -toss some anti-seize on the rotor hat- if you have alloys -so they don't get stuck on. -nothing like trying to change a wheel that won't come off.

i agree with this. it is much easier to compress the piston while bleeding the valve at the same time....you're supposed to change your brake fluid every 2 years anyway, and with 2 years being the average lifespan of low end brake parts, it just makes sense to bleed them while changing them.........just make sure you bleed them properly (ie with a hose attached to the valve on one end and submerged in brake fluid on the other end) to make sure you dont end up with any air bubbles in your brake lines. seen too many career mechanics leave air bubbles because they thought they were good enough to bleed without the hose, and there's really no way to be certain the fluid you're purging doesnt have air bubbles without it passing through a clear hose so you can inspect it.

[Klaus Daimler]

how much did you pay for said special tool, in the initial picture of the tools used it looks like you got a brake caliper piston retracting set i'd well imagine that was a pretty penny

[ajcarp]

I just picked up the caliper tool at Harbor Freight today for $40. Great DIY from the OP, thank you! Also thanks to all those who posted additional helpful comments. Once all my hardware arrives next week, I'll be ready for battle thanks to everyone!