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    Thread: Megasquirt on a Distributor VR6

    1. 06-19-2008 03:43 PM #76
      My best on DR's 225-50-15 is a 13.54 @101.98. Very little tuning has been done. All by Need_a_VR6.
      I will have times on slicks come next Wed. and a dyno sheet to follow on the 1st of July. Hope this info is helpful



      Modified by 92rado2.8 at 3:44 PM 6-19-2008

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      06-19-2008 03:51 PM #77
      Quote, originally posted by 92rado2.8 »
      My best on DR's 225-50-15 is a 13.54 @101.98. Very little tuning has been done. All by Need_a_VR6.
      I will have times on slicks come next Wed. and a dyno sheet to follow on the 1st of July. Hope this info is helpful

      Modified by 92rado2.8 at 3:44 PM 6-19-2008

      Is that just a stock engine?
      Those are some killer times!

    3. 06-19-2008 11:00 PM #78
      Quote, originally posted by epic.banned »
      Is that just a stock engine?
      Those are some killer times!

      Thanks and no. The best time I ever pulled stock was 13.64 at 102.xx. I have yet to really put in the time in the current set-up like I did when I first got the car. It has more in it. The current set-up is MS on a 92 dizzy with 170,000 miles on it. Schrick 268's, mildly ported head(can't do less to a head mild), ported intake and exhaust mani's, mk4 headgasket, 42dd test pipe to a TT 2.5 with a Borla. Trans is a o2a with a corrado R/P(367 I believe) and a peloquin and a clutch net red PP with a 6 puck disc. Motor mounts are old KCD and Turn2 Stg5's. That sums it up. With slicks and more seat time I am hoping for low 13's which is possible.

    4. 07-09-2008 12:02 PM #79
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      D14 with pullup to IGN (no VB)

      Is this the same pullup that the Bosch ignition uses from the MS extra Manuals?

    5. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      07-09-2008 02:21 PM #80
      Yes but I use 1k to 5v, not sure why other then it works!
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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    6. 07-09-2008 02:23 PM #81
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      Yes but I use 1k to 5v, not sure why other then it works!

      Thanks, Just what I needed. Figured I could let the iron cool down for a bit last night and make sure I had my ducks in a row before just goin buck wild with it.

    7. 07-10-2008 02:54 AM #82
      Curious as to how to setup a wasted spark setup for stock coils on a coilpack car. Just had someone ask me about building them a board tonight and it would be good information. I don't think the VB coil drivers would be necessary

    8. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      07-10-2008 07:40 AM #83
      It's been done, but not by me personally, at least not yet. The ones I build for others I use the 3x VB's just to delete the stock coilpack and run GM/MSD coils.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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      07-17-2008 06:46 PM #84
      Hey Paul,
      My roomate and I decided to give it a go at soldering up a MS1 V3, one for a dizzy VR (his) and one for a coilpack VR (mine).
      The question I have is about the VB921's, well, now BIP373's. I'm having trouble finding documentation about where they go/how to set it up to work with wasted spark. Can ya help me out?

    10. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      07-17-2008 10:55 PM #85
      http://www.msextra.com/manuals...tcoil
      You have to paypal me money when you get it working though
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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      07-18-2008 09:38 AM #86
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      http://www.msextra.com/manuals...tcoil
      You have to paypal me money when you get it working though


      So I replace R26, R27 and R29 with a 330ohm resistor? Then I install another DB15 connector and just link stuff to it on the back side? Nothing actually plugs into it?

    12. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      07-18-2008 04:02 PM #87
      No it's three additional resistors from the tops of those (trigger end), each one going to pin 1 of a different BIP.
      Then you tie all the grounds, BIP pin 3 together and run that to the DB25 and make sure that has a BADASS ground to the head near the coils.
      Then you run wires from each BIP Pin2 to double pins on the DB25 and those are now your coil trigger wires.
      Wires from the DB25 will be the big ground, and then three coil trigger wires.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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      07-23-2008 08:45 PM #88
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      No it's three additional resistors from the tops of those (trigger end), each one going to pin 1 of a different BIP.
      Then you tie all the grounds, BIP pin 3 together and run that to the DB25 and make sure that has a BADASS ground to the head near the coils.
      Then you run wires from each BIP Pin2 to double pins on the DB25 and those are now your coil trigger wires.
      Wires from the DB25 will be the big ground, and then three coil trigger wires.

      Do I simply wire/solder the BIP's up such as that and install the entire high current ignition driver circuit?
      Do I need a pull-up resistor?

    14. Member Lord_Verminaard's Avatar
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      07-29-2008 08:14 AM #89
      Is there any way to retain the knock-sensor ignition with MS?
      Brendan
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      07-29-2008 09:02 AM #90
      Quote, originally posted by Lord_Verminaard »
      Is there any way to retain the knock-sensor ignition with MS?
      Brendan

      Use Knocksense, found here.
      http://www.viatrack.ca/

    16. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      07-29-2008 09:02 AM #91
      3 BIPs
      Pin 1 of each BIP through a 330ohm resistor to each LED (top of R26, 29, 27)
      Pin 2 of each BIP through the 'new' connector and to the coil -
      Pin 3 of each BIP tied together through the 'new' connector to engine ground
      No additional parts are needed (pullup, etc).

      You can get knock sensing to work but I haven't found much use for it yet. I've used the MSExtra circuit as well as a Knocksense but once it's tuned, it's tuned. Generally best torque isn't usually right against knock on these motors unless they're highly boosted on not enough octane.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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    17. Member Lord_Verminaard's Avatar
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      07-29-2008 02:50 PM #92
      Cool, thanks JRaptor and Paul!
      Brendan
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    18. Member hasnfefr's Avatar
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      08-24-2008 07:25 AM #93
      ttt

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      08-30-2008 08:15 PM #94
      hey paul we need some help with that tach circuit diagram / pullup thingy.
      where does the 4.7K resistor connect to?

    20. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-30-2008 09:59 PM #95
      The 4.7k goes between the signal wire and 12v.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
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      08-31-2008 02:56 AM #96
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      The 4.7k goes between the signal wire and 12v.

      I don't know why this confuses me so much. The signal wire coming out of the MS box, aka pin 25? Or is the signal wire inside the MS box?
      I've got everything down except for this tach circuit...
      Thanks Paul.

    22. Geriatric Member need_a_VR6's Avatar
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      08-31-2008 08:11 AM #97
      Haha, it's all good. Inside the ms box the same spot on the transistor that the signal output wire goes to needs a 4.7k resistor that's then wired to 12v.
      -Paul
      1995 GTI VR6 - Retired - 12.90@106 R32 power - 12.833@106 12v power
      KPTuned - Official MegaSquirt: Sales - Repair - Installation - Tuning
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      09-01-2008 12:16 AM #98
      Alright we got the car running! Hooray!
      Couple problems...Fuel pump constantly runs and D14 LED is constantly lit even when the key is off.
      The car isn't using an ISV whatsover so I left our the PWN 12v and PWN Idle wires that run from the MS to the stock ECU plug adapter.
      We did jumper T68/9 to T68/1, which is one of the ground wires for the MS. C
      Could either of these be a reason why the FP constantly runs or the LED is lit?
      edit...it ran beautifully! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]


      Modified by JRaptor at 1:02 AM 9-1-2008

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      09-01-2008 03:29 PM #99
      figured out the FP problem, T68/9 has to be relayed to ground. d'oh

    25. Member ClownTrigger's Avatar
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      09-06-2008 09:10 AM #100
      I just got my 8v running last night on 029y, briefly, until smoke rolled out of my v3 PCB.... I've learned quite a bit a bit since starting this switchover from digi2, and a just wanted to add a correction to your original post, and see if I can get some clarification.
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      Launch Circuit

      This is the right circuit to build for a switched low input, but the launch input is JS11 on a v3 PCB, not JS9 like that picture says.
      http://www.msextra.com/manuals...unchC
      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      Tach Circuit (not working yet) w/ 2k pullup

      Just to clarify, the "selected pin on the MS PCB" is the pin selected in Megatune under More Settings > Tacho Output Pin.
      Does this work on Mk2 clusters that get their tach signal from the switched side of the coil, or do you need to build a high voltage tach circuit like one of these?


      Quote, originally posted by need_a_VR6 »
      TIP120 for PWM idle valve with 1N4001 flyback diode between output and 12v
      Remove Q4, Q20 and R39. replace R39 with a wired link or solder the (E) emittor to the right side of position R39 rather than at the Q4 position.

      A word of caution with mounting the 1N4001 flyback diode on the PCB... Don't tie the +12V side of the diode to the +12V pin on the 5V regulator like this picture says is a good place to get +12V from.

      That's how I made smoke roll out of my PCB. After doing some research on flyback diodes on relay/solenoid coils, I found out that a substantial amount of voltage can flow back through that 1N4001 (1000's of volts can be generated by some coils), and the 12V going into the 5V regulator goes passed a 24V zener, which I evidently killed. Regrettably when it failed, it failed into a short, not an open, so the zener was effectively shorting +12V right off of pin 28 to GND through a tiny little trace on the board. Needless to say, the trace didn't make it.
      Bottom line, if you're going to put the 1N4001 on the PCB, tie the +12V side to somewhere that's directly connected to pin 28 on the DB37. I'm going to try the +12V pin on one of the darlingtons in the flyback PWM damping circuits. I don't have high impedance injectors, so I'm not using them anyway, and there's a big fat trace on the bottom side of the board going right to pin 28.
      Thanks for posting all that info though Paul. Even with a bit of confusion on my part, your post was an enormous help.


      Modified by ClownTrigger at 9:15 AM 9-6-2008

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