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    Thread: The "Official" Golf / Jetta MK3 Forum FAQ

    1. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-10-2007 11:10 AM #36
      Quote, originally posted by timmybgood »
      easiest, cheapest hood struts
      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=126323

      removing door panels
      http://www.icbm.org/erkson/personal/mycars/door_panel_removal.htm


      and what everyone wants to know...Octane Boosters!
      http://www.vtr.org/maintain/gasoline-octane.html




      Modified by WolfGTI at 6:39 PM 4-6-2008

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      08-10-2007 11:12 AM #37
      Quote, originally posted by XSiVE »
      2.0 Push-Button Start howto: (might be same on vr6)

      This worked on my 96 2.0, so now Ill tell everyone else how to do it properly after i made the mistakes

      You still need a key to start the car. you put the key in the ignition, and turn it to the on position, then you can hit the start button.

      1. Find yourself a hefty starter button (should have 2 electrical terminals and be able to handle a decent amount of power.) available at most speed shops.

      2. get some 10 GA wire, cut 2 pieces off approximately the length of the distance from the ignition switch to where you want to mount the button.

      3. Disconnect the negative battery terminal

      4. Take the 2 screws out of the bottom of the plastic shroud around the steering column

      5.Disconnect the connector on the passenger side of the steering column, it should have like 6 wires in it, 2 big red ones, a black, i think a brown.. you'll know which one it is, it plugs directly into the ignition switch.

      6. Splice one of the 2 lengths of wire that you cut into the fat solid red wire. Solder them together to ensure a good connection. This will be your "hot" wire. Be sure not to cut this off the conector as it supplies the rest of the stuff on the switch with constant power.

      7. Here's where you get to make a decision. There is a fat red wire with a black line on it. this is the wire that delivers electricity to your starter selenoid. You can either clip this off the connector, or you can splice into it. Chose whichever you are more comfortable with. (clipping the wire off the connector means that when you put the key in, and turn it all the way to the start position, nothing will happen.) If you clip it off the connector, splice into the side of the wire that goes into the cars wiring harness, not the connector. Solder this splice to ensure a good connection.

      8. Use shrink-wrap or electrical tape to be sure the bare wire from the connections you just made wont touch anything on accident.

      9. Connect each wire at the other end to one of the 2 terminals on the starter switch.

      10. Mount your starter button wherever you decided.

      11. you're done, this should have also over-ridden the clutch safety switch, so watch out.

      I did this mod out of necessity, not for glory or fun. my ignition switch was going screwey and wouldnt allow my car to start very easily, so rather than pay $160 for a new assembly and dealership labor ( i guess they have to install it for some reason) I paid like less than $20 in parts and did it myself.


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      08-10-2007 11:19 AM #38
      Quote, originally posted by 19 GTi VR6 98 »
      One-Touch Sunroof Open (Back only, not up)

      http://www.bestvwclub.com/howto/1touch/1touch.html

      Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »
      Modifying the air box for better performance as well as the real story about the Air Temperture Control system (and it is not the cold start system!):
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/atc.htm

      Swapping in the rear Euro license plate frame/tub:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/euro-license-frame.htm

      Installing the Bonrath Mono-wiper:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/bonrath_install/index.htm
      or for slower (modem) connections:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/bonrath_install/bonrath_install.htm

      One-touch sunroof:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/one_touch_sunroof_open/index.htm

      Key words for search engine:
      air box airbox swiss cheese swiss cheeze intake




      Modified by nater at 3:29 PM 3-21-2009

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      08-10-2007 11:26 AM #39
      Quote, originally posted by Hobbs »
      How to take out the needles on the instrument cluster

      After you have the cluster bare to where you can physically touch the needles, grab two small flat head screwdrivers. wedge the screwdrivers under the round base of the needle (one at 3 o clock and the other at 9 o clock) and VERY CAREFULLY push down on the screwdrivers, wedging the needles out. Make sure that you apply the same force to both sides or you will pull out the spring.

      Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »

      And more here:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/advanced_gauge_lighting/index.htm
      For help removing the gauge cluster:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/ri_gauge_faces/index.htm



      Modified by nater at 3:31 PM 3-21-2009

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      08-10-2007 11:29 AM #40
      Quote, originally posted by lowazzgolf »
      How Do I Hook-Up an Air Fuel Gauge?

      this is for the Autometer gauge, i do not know of any other makes.

      In the engine bay on the passenger side down between the expansion valve and the heatshield on the exhaust header, you will see two connectors, one should be brown, one should be black.

      It is the black one that you will use to connect the signal wire from the guage to. On the connector there are 4 wires, 3 of them are together and there is a space separating the 4th wire, that is the one you use!

      To connect into this wire i suggest you buy wire-taps from your local Radio Shack

      How Do I Hook-Up an Oil Pressure Gauge?

      once again this is for an autometer oil press gauge. it comes with all hardware needed except one 1" long piece of teflon tape. you can pretty much figure out how everything hooks together, just make sure its all very tight.

      you tap into the oil filter housing. remove one of the taps with an allen head and tap accordingly

      How Do I Install my Short Shift Kit?

      like this, its located in the engine bay and not in the car as believed

      What Is The Thread Size for the Shifter On a 2.0?

      12 x 1.5 metric


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      08-10-2007 11:32 AM #41
      Quote, originally posted by DubberFromCT »
      Trunk Light for OBDI Cars
      http://spoi.com/vw/trunk.html

      So easy, even I did it


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      08-10-2007 11:35 AM #42
      Quote, originally posted by Matt H »
      I have how-to's for the following:
      Retrofit Glovebox
      Remote Keyless Entry
      Ghetto Hoodlifts
      Trunk Light
      Fuba Install

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      08-10-2007 11:49 AM #43
      Quote, originally posted by DubberFromCT »
      MKIV Knob/Boot in a MKIII
      1.- Get knob/boot.
      2.- Remove lower plastic ring from the boot.
      3.- Remove the metal clip on the bottom of the knob.
      4.- Remove stock knob/boot. (Pull off boot, unscrew the knob)
      5a.- Push down on the MKIV knob and thread it onto your shifter.
      5b.- Buy a hose clamp (1/4" to 5/8" adjustable), then secure the knob onto the shifter.
      6.- Put the boot around the MKIII lip.
      You're done!

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      08-10-2007 12:25 PM #44
      Quote, originally posted by EURENN »
      Anything before January 1998 on jettas, (most likely golfs too), the front disc brakes on the 2.0's are completely different units then those after january 1998. Found this out from my own experience.

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      08-10-2007 12:29 PM #45
      Quote, originally posted by dhype55 »
      Canadian GTI Rear Strut Bar Polish mod


      Almost all canadian GTI's came equipped with a very very stiff rear strut bar. Painted in black. Remove the 2 bolts and use a rubber mallet to knock the bar out.

      Easy mod, is too sand and polish the bar, using incremental sand paper, 300 -> 500 -> 700 > 1000. Then little bit of metal polish and bling bling. Sand and polish the 3 sides, not including the one with the seat anchor.

      Also good idea to mount in upsidedown to hide the seat anchor bolt. Giving you a nice flat shiny bar.

      Cheap and easy, thanks arch, jeremey!


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      08-10-2007 12:53 PM #46
      Quote, originally posted by George »
      left hand door handles will work on the right of your car and the same is for the reverse. (outer door handles). this is important if you want your handles to look new again, just swap them from left to right. if you have a 98+ then you only have a key hole in your drivers door so that isn't your best option for the drivers door.

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      08-10-2007 12:55 PM #47
      Quote, originally posted by George »
      If you want to take off your golf/gti rear glass spoiler, pop your trunk and there are 3 nuts to remove at the top of the glass. Once off just pull hard at the spoiler will come off, then you will have to remove the goo and fill the holes. I used black calking to fill the holes in mine, works great and looks better than caps.


      edit: if your 3rd brake light is in the spoiler then you can get pulled over. a center brake light has been a US standard sence 1986. so this would be for offroad uses only for 96 and earlier models.


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      08-10-2007 12:58 PM #48
      Quote, originally posted by iamdoingthat »
      Fixing Your Non-clip-on Door Moldings

      If your door moldings are starting to come off, you can remove them with a heatgun/hairdryer and some rope. Use the heatgun to warm up the tape that's holding it on, then use the rope to "saw" the molding off, or just pull it off with your hands.

      Make sure you clean off all the adhesive from the back of the molding, as well as the surface of the door. After peeling off all the adhesive (Goo-Gone works well) make sure both surfaces are extra clean with rubbing alcohol.

      Use 3M VHB (Very High Bond) double stick tape. It's sold in small rolls, it's about 1/2" wide and has red backing. The tape itself is grey-ish in color. Apply two strips of the tape to the back side of the molding (top and bottom) and then stick your molding back into the door. It wouldn't hurt to heat up the tape with your hairdryer before sticking it on. It's a good idea to have a friend help you line up the molding straight against the door. If you cleaned everything as well as you should have, this will be as good as the factory application.

      If you don't want to deal with all of this mess, simply pull off your moldings as mentioned, and buy the clip-on molding from someone, Potter, for example.

      Quote, originally posted by cjbuchanan »
      One small addition regarding a tip I got from a Bodyshop Veteran: Before applying the tape to the molding or the door, run your finger on the surface of the tape. This will activate the adhesive on the tape by removing any residue left over from the backing.

      I tried to replace my moldings twice before I used this method and haven't had to mess with it since.




      Modified by nater at 1:44 PM 8-10-2007

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      08-10-2007 01:00 PM #49
      Quote, originally posted by iamdoingthat »
      Debadging

      All factory badges on A3 Volkswagens are held on with double stick tape, except the center mounted grille badge, which is held on with clips. To remove the factory badging, heat up the adhesive with a heatgun/hairdryer, and use dental floss/fishing line to "saw" off the badge. Then use adhesive remover to get rid of the gunk that's remaining on the car. Make sure to polish/wax the newly exposed paint.

      Also, although the center rear "VW" badge is held on with double stick tape, it is placed in a recess in the trunk/hatch, so make note of this before trying to remove it. It will not look good if you remove the badge, and then leave it like that.

      Any non-factory badges (dealer, repair shop, etc) I can't account for.

      [edit]: I've just been informed that early Mk3's, specifically 1994 may have small clips that hold in the rear badges, so you may want to check for that if you're going to debadge the rear. Thanks to enos for the info.




      Modified by nater at 1:03 PM 8-10-2007

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      08-10-2007 01:02 PM #50
      Quote, originally posted by iamdoingthat »
      Removing Factory Sideskirts (all models except Cabrio)

      The factory sideskirts are held in with about 6 screws that go underneath the skirts. They are philip's head screws, and they attach the skirt to a little strip of metal that hangs down from underneath the car.

      After removing the screws underneath, you will have to remove the rivets that are on either end, in the wheels wells. Either use a drill to take them out, or you can use a hammer/chisel to break off the head, and pop out the lower piece.

      Finally, after all screws/rivets are removed, the skirts will peel off from the car, after which you will have to remove the adhesive. I recommend Spray-On Goo Gone, but any adhesive remover will work. Make sure you get all of it off, and then polish/wax the paint that is exposed underneath, as it has not seen the outside since the car was built.


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      08-10-2007 01:09 PM #51
      Quote, originally posted by kitty »
      another faded doorhandle solution!

      to re-blacked them, makes them look factory fresh again

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?&id=557670


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      08-10-2007 01:13 PM #52
      Quote, originally posted by golfSPORT95 »
      "Where do I get spacers/adapters to go from 4x100 to 5x100"

      They do not exist. It is impossible to make a adapter plate for this conversion because a lug would overlap. You can either get the full 5x100 running gear from a vr6 car or you can consult ECS Tuning for their kit which is significantly cheaper than a full swap.


      Quote, originally posted by stephensweetland »

      yes they do exist.

      no its not impossible.

      you can get them here

      (im not arguing, just felt that this should probably be updated with current information)

      ngp racing




      Modified by nater at 3:44 PM 8-10-2007

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      08-10-2007 01:34 PM #53
      Quote, originally posted by Ghetto-8v »
      How to Polish ALL Aluminums....

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=547333


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      08-10-2007 01:46 PM #54
      Quote, originally posted by 28 »
      (93-95) How to delete your passenger side keyhole

      Purchase a rear door handle from a golf or jetta. Either side, they are universal. Simply take out your keyed passenger side handle and replace it with the rear handle. This can easily be done in 10 minutes.


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      08-10-2007 02:02 PM #55
      Quote, originally posted by VR6-Racer »
      Blackend VW Emblem

      Take off your old VW emblems with either a screw driver or some other way. Sand down the emblems so it has a textures surface so the paint can cling to. Take some black spray paint and paint over it with as many coats as you want, then put a coat of gloss over it, let it dry after each coat (duh ). Clip back on and your done.


      How to add a Blue and White emblem to the back.

      First get the emblem that is found on engine bays of MK4 1.8t's and V6 Passats (how you get it I don't care). Rip off the clips that are on the back of the black housing of the emblem. Take off your old rear emblem but keep the rubber hub. Go around the black housing of the blue and white emblem with glue and put it on the rim of the old hub. Tip: make sure it is not cruked. Let dry and your done.


      Painting parts of your engine bay.

      Get some high temp paint (any color) and masking-tape. Go over the parts you dont want painted with masking-tape and make sure it stuck on there good or else paint will seep through. Once everything is taped off take your paint and paint what you want i.e. (VR6) in between intake manifold, engine cover that says "VR6 - DOHC", and what ever else you can find. (2.0) intake manifold, and what ever else.

      How to clean wax and stuff off textured plastic.

      If you have wax stuck in the textured plastic like the stock side skirts or the bottum of the rear bumper just take one of those rectangular pink erasers and go over the white parts with the eraser. Cheap but works.
      Yeah thats my contribution. Hope you guys can use this stuff.

      ***Nater removed all links to pictures in this post as they do not work. To the OP: If you still have these pictures please email them to myself or Stephen@vwvortex so we can host them for you and put back in the FAQ***


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      08-10-2007 02:12 PM #56
      Quote, originally posted by DubberFromCT »
      "Help" on installing Euro VR6 Lip
      http://www.gti-vr6.net/library/body_exterior/Euro_GTI_fr_spoiler.html

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      08-10-2007 02:14 PM #57
      Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »
      Modifying the air box for better performance as well as the real story about the Air Temperture Control system (and it is not the cold start system!):
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/atc.htm

      Swapping in the rear Euro license plate frame/tub:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/euro-license-frame.htm

      Installing the Bonrath Mono-wiper:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/bonrath_install/index.htm
      or for slower (modem) connections:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/bonrath_install/bonrath_install.htm

      One-touch sunroof:
      http://www.aircoolednut.com/erkson/personal/mycars/one_touch_sunroof_open/index.htm

      Key words for search engine:
      air box airbox swiss cheese swiss cheeze intake




      Modified by nater at 3:35 PM 3-21-2009

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      08-10-2007 02:20 PM #58
      Quote, originally posted by Slapshotnerd »
      CL style plugged rear wiper for mk3 golf's and gti's

      The plug is from a mk2, it can be found at junk yards. It is used to adjust the side mirrors on these cars, and is a little black knob. 5 finger discount from the junk yard or a friends ride is an option, but most junkers probably wont charge ya more than a buck or two.

      1 - remove wiper blade (lift up back part of wiper blade, use socket or wrench to remove the nut, flip the blade up at a 90 degree angle away from the rear window, and twist the blade back and forth until you get it off)
      2 - remove hatch cover
      3 - remove bolts holding in the wiper motor
      4 - remove wiper motor - very difficult, and seemingly impossible, but it will eventually come out.
      5 - unplug wiper motor, cap off hose running to water reservoir
      6 - insert the plug into the hole. You may need to lube it up a bit, as it is a tight fit, but it will fit.

      stand back and enjoy


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      08-10-2007 02:24 PM #59
      Quote, originally posted by golfSPORT95 »
      VW accessory lower grille covers

      VW makes a rib to cover the lower fins in the bumper. Some 93-94 light color cars had them, most who have them have added them. The vw part number is 1HM-807-245-01C and they list for $1.20 a piece and you need 6.

      ***Nater removed pictures due to no host. If OP has pictures available still please send them to myself or Stephen@vwvortex so we can host***


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      08-10-2007 02:30 PM #60
      Quote, originally posted by Wheel Man »
      How to paint your 2.0 inatake manifold

      for all of you who have asked I thought I would tell you in one simple thread how to paint your 2.0 intake manifold. feel free to add your own pic's of your engine's to.
      First off I used ceramic engine paint rated to 500f +plus ceramic clear coat. this is avalible at almost all parts stores in many diffrent colors.

      to do this to your 2.0 firts disconect the negitive battrie cable, then you will need to disconect everything that is conected to the maniflod. I did this as I went along when ever I could reach something. (make sure you know were it gose when you put it back together)
      some things conected to the upper intake maniflod are a little bit easyer to take off after you take off the top maniflod (like the EGR)
      once you have the top off decide if you want to do the bottom.
      the lower intake maniflod is not that hard to take off once you get the injectors out.
      to take the injectors out just carefully pull them out. (I pulled them out along with the fuel rail but that might not be the best way) I would sugest looking at a repair manual if you wonder how somehting comes off. also plug up the holes in the intake side of the head that are now exposed so that stuff dosent get down there.

      Ok so now the upper intake manifold is off, and mabey the lower to if you decided to do that also.
      use some degreser to clean them real good, and scrub them with something like a scrub brush.
      make sure to get as much junk off as posible.

      then rinse them off and let dry.

      EDIT: make sure to mask off all of the runners so you dont get paint inside
      once it is dry you ar ready to paint. (please read the instructions on the paint can first)
      I first painted the parts of the maniflod that you dont see, so that I would know what to expect.
      I used one light even coat then let that dry for 10 min. and then did one even full coat. (my paint called for 3hrs of drying time but it was cold so it took longer)
      after you have all sides evenly painted with the color of your choice use the same method with the ceramic engine clearcoat, this will make it nice and shinny and easy to clean.

      once everything is dry (like realy, realy dry)
      you are ready to assemble your new painted intake manifold.
      the paint will still chip untill it gets hot. once everything is on then touch up the spots were you might have chipped it and were the upper anbd lower manfold meet. (use a small brush for this)
      then make sure everything is conected and tightend down and reconect the battrie cabel. let it idle for a few minets so the ECU resets it self (just to be safe)
      once the engine is hot you can apply another coat to the touchups if you like (with brush)(and only small areas).

      Be prepared for a lot of drying time.
      I started on a friday night (dissasembled everything and painted first coat)
      let it sit over night then do the second coat and the clear. let it sit for 3 hours and put it on just in time for the GTG
      Just make sure to give your self the time to do this.

      *I take no responsibility for you messing anything up on your car*
      I just had to add that in there..

      Keep in mind that due to the paint drying time this mod can easly take all day, it took me from painting it one night to assembling it in the morning, also take this opertunity to clean your engine bay so it looks all spifity


      ***Nater removed pictures due to no hosting. OP: If you find the pictures feel free to contact myself or Stephen@vwvortex so we can host them***


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      08-10-2007 02:32 PM #61
      Quote, originally posted by DubberFromCT »
      SEAT Toledo Lip Spoiler Install

      Follow this thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=228564


    27. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-10-2007 02:43 PM #62
      Quote, originally posted by ez.roller »
      to swiss cheese your box check out this link:
      http://www.reimundez.com/vwmods/mods/swisscheeseairbox.html


    28. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-10-2007 02:45 PM #63
      Quote, originally posted by fatlard »
      CatBack Exhaust
      http://www.vwenthusiast.com/technical/exhaust/tech.exhaust.html

      Timing Belt on a 2.0
      http://www.vwenthusiast.com/technical/TimingBelt/timingbelt.html

      These aren't mine.. I found them on the internet.


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      08-10-2007 02:48 PM #64
      Quote, originally posted by rbberbbybggybmpers »
      VR6 Throttle body coolant line bypass,

      use a 3/8" barbed union to tee off the coolant lines that run into the throttle body, no more hot coolant heating up the intake charge.


    30. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-10-2007 03:09 PM #65
      Quote, originally posted by Clean97GTi »
      Changing Spark Plugs on a 2.0
      Tools: VW Plug Wire puller or a pair of long needle nose pliers. Spark plug socket. Socket wrench. 6" extension and u-joint adapter (not required but it helps). Small brush or compressed air source. Anti-sieze compound
      The Procedure
      1. Note where all your plug wires go before removing them. Write it down, I'll wait... Remove plug wires. Be careful if using needle nose pliers. ONLY grab the metal shield.
      2. Brush or blow away any dirt that has collected around the plugs. Remove plugs. The fuel injectors can be removed for more clearance, but it is not required.
      3. Gap your new spark plugs and put a little anti-sieze compound on the threads and tighten the plugs down.
      4. Reinstall the spark plug wires and start the car (put some dielectric grease in the plug boots)
      You're done (and you didn't have to remove the manifold)

    31. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-10-2007 03:15 PM #66
      Quote, originally posted by VR6 Mk3 »
      For DIY for Serpentine belt, Brake pads, Tinting Lights, Exhaust Install

      http://forums.dubr.com/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=5


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      08-10-2007 03:18 PM #67
      Quote, originally posted by FatSean »
      Easy VR6 Upper Intake Manifold Removal


      Remove the lower front motor mount bolt. This is the one in the center of the round thing...there are 3 smaller bolts surrounding it which you should ignore. Place a length of wood across the lifting point of your floorjack, and move it underneath the oil pan. Try to get as much wood on the pan as possible, to spread out the weight. Jack up the lifting point until it pins the wood against the oil pan. Remove the radiator cover and take a look at where your upper intake meets the lower intake. It's a pain to get your hex-head sockets at the lower bolts, so slowly lift the motor an inch or two to bring the lower bolt heads up. Lift it just high enough to fit your ratched/extension/socket into the bolt with room to turn it. Lower the motor slowly when you are done! Don't forget to put the motor mount bolt back in! Use some blue loc-tight and tighten it to spec.


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      08-10-2007 03:31 PM #68
      Quote, originally posted by VR6-Racer »
      How to make a heat shield:

      Take some sheet metal or anything thats good against heat, measure the dimensions of the intake area, draw the areas where your suppost to bend or cut on the metal. For the bending I had a metal bender but you can find some other way like putting it at the edge of the table and bending it down. Then cut out what needs to be cut, also cut out a hole for the MAF to go through. Bend about a 1/4 inch down all around the top so you can glue some padding on there. Find some sort of padding and glue it on. Now take off the cone and MAF and put it in, stick the MAF through and then put the cone on. The MAF sensor should keep it in its place.

      For an example, look at my engine bay pic 2 post above.


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      08-10-2007 03:46 PM #69
      Quote, originally posted by 2pt. slo »
      I put this little guide together, it has a brief description of the website from either me or the actual site. Please feel free to add any extra sites i missed.

      http://www.eurobadgez.com
      Has a lot of really cool euro badges, lot for the mkIII

      http://ngpracing.com/
      Inside you will find a lot of great products from the best manufacturers in the industry. Whether you are looking for a custom turbo kit or a quick bolt on. Five bay, fully equipped service facility can handle any level of service or full custom and performance work. A dedicated fabrication area, in ground Dynojet 248c and a committed service staff combine to ensure your project will be completed 100% in house.

      http://blackforestindustries.com/
      A wide variety of mkIII parts from suspension to body accessories. At Black Forest Industries they offer a complete tuning solution for your VW or Audi. Facility includes a showroom stocked with the items from our store as well as a shop for installation of everything they sell.

      http://vividwonders.com/
      Site includes headlights, side markers, taillights, and badgeless grills, also a few small electrical items.

      http://parts4euro.com/
      They carry a full line of high quality European products such as Hella, In-Pro, JOM, HELIX, MHW and a number of there own parts. Decent amount of MKIII items.

      http://www.usrallyteam.com/
      Great site for high-performance needs. USRT is best known for supplying fuel system parts to the VW/ Audi tuning community (injectors, pumps, regulators, etc.) as well as complete fuel-related technical guidance. In addition we provide intake manifolds, standalone engine management, shifter kits, limited slip differentials, clutches, and other hardcore products.

      http://www.amimotorsports.com/
      AMI Motorsports is an authorized importer/ distributor for Caractere, Rieger Tuning, FK, Hagus, Kamei, Mattig. They also offer a range of aftermarket & OE European
      spec parts for most Volkswagen models. You will be able
      to find European spec. bumpers, radiator supports, and
      a few select other European spec. products. Also a great site for high-performance needs.

      http://www.atpturbo.com/
      A great site if you are looking into forced induction for your MKIII. Advanced Tuning Products, Inc. (ATP Turbo) is a company dedicated solely to turbocharging. Our goal is to engineer and manufacture turbocharging components that make sense. While turbocharging itself is not "new", many of the components that we create are of "fresh" ideas that come from applying the basic principles of process improvement and re-engineering to turbocharging systems. Adhering to these principles have helped us to design and re-design components for turbocharging, that are often more simplified, but function better, and are more reliable.

      http://www.rapidparts.com
      A wide variety of MKIII OEM and Performance parts. They offer quick access to replacement and performance parts for the entire United States, Canada and beyond. Their knowledgeable staff and large inventory of stocked parts ensure prompt and accurate customer service. A dedicated, in house, computer system keeps track of customer information and inventory which helps us process orders quickly. Orders received by 12:00 PM EST will be shipped out (UPS) the same day, provided that the items are in stock.

      http://www.mjmautohaus.com/
      Great site includes a wide variety of MKIII OEM and Performance parts. MJM Autohaus is a parts and accessories outlet located in San Antonio, Texas. Our goal is to achieve customer service and fair pricing that is second to none in our industry, offer products that we believe in and know to be the best for your vehicle, and to be there for you before, during, and after the sale of your product - whether it be a $5 or $500 part. We believe our goals in succeeding are accomplished only with hard work, a dedication to what we do, and unparalleled communication with our customers.

      http://ecstuning.com/
      Huge selection of OEM and Performance parts. Great site!! They have almost everything.

      http://www.oldskoolindustries.com/
      Also has a huge selection of OEM and Performance parts, once again another great site!! Lots of euro goodies.

      http://www.dubtechnik.com/
      A solely body styling company. Pieces are too extreme for me, but good to some I bet

      http://eurocustoms.net/oscommerce/catalog/
      Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.

      http://www.fourseasontuning.com/
      Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.

      http://www.bptproducts.com/
      Too Low? Go here for all your skidplate needs.

      http://www.pagparts.com/
      A great site for high performance and turbocharging needs. At Pagparts, we are aware that attaining quality products for your turbocharger project is sometimes frustrating. We carry a complete line of components such as turbo manifolds, Garrett turbochargers, wastegates, flanges, oil lines, flex pipes, downpipes, adapters, etc. Please peruse our catalog.

      http://www.unitronic.ca/uni/
      Not sure if they have any MKIII items, but a great source for custom ecu chips.

      http://autotech.com/
      We all know Autotech. Great products, great people.. Intelligent answers to your sport tuning questions. Professional guidance through the bewildering world of state-of-the-art automotive high-tech. We're ready to help you with a full selection of parts that work and tips for using and installing them. A wealth of experience you can tap for the best value in sport tuning, no matter what your budget. We like Volkswagens. It's that simple. We drive them and we know what it takes to tune them. We've been through just about everything with the watercooled VWs and we've got a clear idea of what works and what doesn't. We can take the speculation and guesswork out of properly sport tuning your Rabbit, Scirocco, Jetta, Golf, Passat, or Corrado. Our people have been in the watercooled Volkswagen business since the beginning. We know what's out there and what's coming. We're out to do it better - selecting, designing, offering you the best.

      http://www.42draftdesigns.com/
      42 is a manufacturer of custom parts and accessories for modern Volkswagens and Audis. Our manufacturing capabilities include plastic injection molding, thermoforming, CNC machining, fabrication, and electronics design. Check out our products section to see what we've been working on.

      http://www.fastaddiction.com/
      Has a good selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.

      http://tmtuning.com/
      Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Really cool site

      http://1stvwparts.com/
      Huge OEM parts selection. At 1st VW Parts we promise 100% Genuine Factory Volkswagen Parts and Volkswagen Accessories at less than dealer wholesale prices!

      http://www.4induktion.com/
      Good site. Since opening in 2003, we’ve spent the past few years developing and testing our product line to insure that we have the best of what the European aftermarket has to offer for your car. We also offer a full line of OEM Euro upgrade parts to give your car the look and feel you've been waiting for. From launch, we’ll be continually adding product to make Induktion Motorsports and 4induktion.com your complete source for your European car.

      http://kineticmotorsport.com/
      For all your Forced Induction needs, awesome site!! We offer a wide range of services for your vehicle. From custom intercoolers to dyno tuning your car we can tailor to your needs.

      http://germanautoparts.com/
      Great OEM website. GermanAutoParts.com is your comprehensive parts source for European automobiles, specializing in Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Saab and Volvo. We can save you time and money by delivering original equipment parts directly to your door at up to 70% off dealer list prices.

      http://o-bars.com/index.html
      By the looks of it, quality rear strut and sway bars for an unbeatable price. O-Bars is a company dedicated to the driving pleasure of Volkswagens. The products that we offer are intended with this in mind, and also for the performance minded individual on a budget. O-Bars are made from a high quality steel and come with detailed instructions and all hardware for the installation. The design of the bars are described in more detail on our product pages, as are prices.

      http://www.performance-cafe.com/
      Once again has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, another great site!! Performance-Cafe.com is not just a large warehouse shipping your products. We are a full service VW repair shop and retail store. If your in the area feel free to drop in! No need to make appointments, we are open 9-5 M-T and 9-4 friday. Because we install the parts here we can give you the best first hand help with installing it yourself or with any technical questions you may have. Not to mention we have some of the most reasonable service rates in the bay area.


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      08-10-2007 03:50 PM #70
      Read this thread for updates as of Jan 2008.
      Original post linked to is this:
      Quote, originally posted by hookdub »

      I hope the steps don't seem weird because I got a wrong rebuild kit the first time so I painted it then rebuilt it. This way I didnt have to wory about overspray on the rubber.
      If you decide to paint, get the 2 stage kit it's tougher, but when/if you're painting the underside go lite. Putting too much paint will make the pads a tight fit.

      Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit
      Caliper Repair Kit
      Bleeder screw with check valve
      Brake clean.
      DOT 4 ATE blue brake fluid
      turkey baister


      For a MK3 upgrade get a set of G60 Corrado rotors & pads. (EBC pads & brembo slotted) The calipers bolt up like they were made to fit

      Get the bleeder screws with the check valve. With this check valve you can bleed you brakes by youself without the tool.



      Wire wheel the heck out of it & get all of the corners.

      for all the fans file & smooth the casting marks on the carier and calliper


      I was carefull with poping out the piston. 40psi worked for me. Use a bunch of brake clean in and out so you dont get grit in the caliper durring the rebuild


      Remone the o ring from the caliper with something softer than steel and be carefull not to scratch the walls. Replacing the o-ring is simple enough.
      Make sure to coat the o-rings and boot seals with brake fluid for a positive seal. Lube the piston and caliper wall with new brake fluid for assembly lube. Here is the tricky part I found it easy to slide the seal on the groove of the piston so the seal can be unfolded.You see how the seal is sitting, the side that seals with the caliper is sitting slid up from the piston. Now with the seal sitting on the piston arrange the piston in the calliper so you can seat the seal with the calliper while keeping it on the piston. It took me a while but it is the best way as to not destroy the seal. I pressed the piston in by hand with a little TLC. I HIGHLY sugest you slide the piston in and out using the air and wood (3 pics up). I didn't get the seal right the first time even though it looked ok until I cycled the piston.



      make sure the bleeder screw is facing up when installed to make sure you didnt install them upside down



      The slider pins, boots and the bleeder screws are easy enough.
      Make sure to grease the slider pins, this will make sure you caliper dosent bind.
      Last thing is to bleed the brakes. I used a turkey baister to remove old fluid from the master. I then toped off the master cyl and purged a bunch through the line.
      Once you start bleeding keep an eye on the master.




      Modified by nater at 9:35 PM 1-2-2008

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