Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut » Modifying the air box for better performance as well as the real story about the Air Temperture Control system (and it is not the cold start system!):
Swapping in the rear Euro license plate frame/tub:
Installing the Bonrath Mono-wiper:
or for slower (modem) connections:
Key words for search engine:
air box airbox swiss cheese swiss cheeze intake
Modified by nater at 3:35 PM 3-21-2009
Quote, originally posted by Slapshotnerd » CL style plugged rear wiper for mk3 golf's and gti's
The plug is from a mk2, it can be found at junk yards. It is used to adjust the side mirrors on these cars, and is a little black knob. 5 finger discount from the junk yard or a friends ride is an option, but most junkers probably wont charge ya more than a buck or two.
1 - remove wiper blade (lift up back part of wiper blade, use socket or wrench to remove the nut, flip the blade up at a 90 degree angle away from the rear window, and twist the blade back and forth until you get it off)
2 - remove hatch cover
3 - remove bolts holding in the wiper motor
4 - remove wiper motor - very difficult, and seemingly impossible, but it will eventually come out.
5 - unplug wiper motor, cap off hose running to water reservoir
6 - insert the plug into the hole. You may need to lube it up a bit, as it is a tight fit, but it will fit.
stand back and enjoy
Quote, originally posted by golfSPORT95 » VW accessory lower grille covers
VW makes a rib to cover the lower fins in the bumper. Some 93-94 light color cars had them, most who have them have added them. The vw part number is 1HM-807-245-01C and they list for $1.20 a piece and you need 6.
***Nater removed pictures due to no host. If OP has pictures available still please send them to myself or Stephen@vwvortex so we can host***
Quote, originally posted by Wheel Man » How to paint your 2.0 inatake manifold
for all of you who have asked I thought I would tell you in one simple thread how to paint your 2.0 intake manifold. feel free to add your own pic's of your engine's to.
First off I used ceramic engine paint rated to 500f +plus ceramic clear coat. this is avalible at almost all parts stores in many diffrent colors.
to do this to your 2.0 firts disconect the negitive battrie cable, then you will need to disconect everything that is conected to the maniflod. I did this as I went along when ever I could reach something. (make sure you know were it gose when you put it back together)
some things conected to the upper intake maniflod are a little bit easyer to take off after you take off the top maniflod (like the EGR)
once you have the top off decide if you want to do the bottom.
the lower intake maniflod is not that hard to take off once you get the injectors out.
to take the injectors out just carefully pull them out. (I pulled them out along with the fuel rail but that might not be the best way) I would sugest looking at a repair manual if you wonder how somehting comes off. also plug up the holes in the intake side of the head that are now exposed so that stuff dosent get down there.
Ok so now the upper intake manifold is off, and mabey the lower to if you decided to do that also.
use some degreser to clean them real good, and scrub them with something like a scrub brush.
make sure to get as much junk off as posible.
then rinse them off and let dry.
EDIT: make sure to mask off all of the runners so you dont get paint inside
once it is dry you ar ready to paint. (please read the instructions on the paint can first)
I first painted the parts of the maniflod that you dont see, so that I would know what to expect.
I used one light even coat then let that dry for 10 min. and then did one even full coat. (my paint called for 3hrs of drying time but it was cold so it took longer)
after you have all sides evenly painted with the color of your choice use the same method with the ceramic engine clearcoat, this will make it nice and shinny and easy to clean.
once everything is dry (like realy, realy dry)
you are ready to assemble your new painted intake manifold.
the paint will still chip untill it gets hot. once everything is on then touch up the spots were you might have chipped it and were the upper anbd lower manfold meet. (use a small brush for this)
then make sure everything is conected and tightend down and reconect the battrie cabel. let it idle for a few minets so the ECU resets it self (just to be safe)
once the engine is hot you can apply another coat to the touchups if you like (with brush)(and only small areas).
Be prepared for a lot of drying time.
I started on a friday night (dissasembled everything and painted first coat)
let it sit over night then do the second coat and the clear. let it sit for 3 hours and put it on just in time for the GTG
Just make sure to give your self the time to do this.
*I take no responsibility for you messing anything up on your car*
I just had to add that in there..
Keep in mind that due to the paint drying time this mod can easly take all day, it took me from painting it one night to assembling it in the morning, also take this opertunity to clean your engine bay so it looks all spifity
***Nater removed pictures due to no hosting. OP: If you find the pictures feel free to contact myself or Stephen@vwvortex so we can host them***
Quote, originally posted by fatlard » CatBack Exhaust
Timing Belt on a 2.0
These aren't mine.. I found them on the internet.
Quote, originally posted by rbberbbybggybmpers » VR6 Throttle body coolant line bypass,
use a 3/8" barbed union to tee off the coolant lines that run into the throttle body, no more hot coolant heating up the intake charge.
Quote, originally posted by Clean97GTi » Changing Spark Plugs on a 2.0
Tools: VW Plug Wire puller or a pair of long needle nose pliers. Spark plug socket. Socket wrench. 6" extension and u-joint adapter (not required but it helps). Small brush or compressed air source. Anti-sieze compound
1. Note where all your plug wires go before removing them. Write it down, I'll wait... Remove plug wires. Be careful if using needle nose pliers. ONLY grab the metal shield.
2. Brush or blow away any dirt that has collected around the plugs. Remove plugs. The fuel injectors can be removed for more clearance, but it is not required.
3. Gap your new spark plugs and put a little anti-sieze compound on the threads and tighten the plugs down.
4. Reinstall the spark plug wires and start the car (put some dielectric grease in the plug boots)
You're done (and you didn't have to remove the manifold)
Quote, originally posted by FatSean » Easy VR6 Upper Intake Manifold Removal
Remove the lower front motor mount bolt. This is the one in the center of the round thing...there are 3 smaller bolts surrounding it which you should ignore. Place a length of wood across the lifting point of your floorjack, and move it underneath the oil pan. Try to get as much wood on the pan as possible, to spread out the weight. Jack up the lifting point until it pins the wood against the oil pan. Remove the radiator cover and take a look at where your upper intake meets the lower intake. It's a pain to get your hex-head sockets at the lower bolts, so slowly lift the motor an inch or two to bring the lower bolt heads up. Lift it just high enough to fit your ratched/extension/socket into the bolt with room to turn it. Lower the motor slowly when you are done! Don't forget to put the motor mount bolt back in! Use some blue loc-tight and tighten it to spec.
Quote, originally posted by VR6-Racer » How to make a heat shield:
Take some sheet metal or anything thats good against heat, measure the dimensions of the intake area, draw the areas where your suppost to bend or cut on the metal. For the bending I had a metal bender but you can find some other way like putting it at the edge of the table and bending it down. Then cut out what needs to be cut, also cut out a hole for the MAF to go through. Bend about a 1/4 inch down all around the top so you can glue some padding on there. Find some sort of padding and glue it on. Now take off the cone and MAF and put it in, stick the MAF through and then put the cone on. The MAF sensor should keep it in its place.
For an example, look at my engine bay pic 2 post above.
Quote, originally posted by 2pt. slo » I put this little guide together, it has a brief description of the website from either me or the actual site. Please feel free to add any extra sites i missed.
Has a lot of really cool euro badges, lot for the mkIII
Inside you will find a lot of great products from the best manufacturers in the industry. Whether you are looking for a custom turbo kit or a quick bolt on. Five bay, fully equipped service facility can handle any level of service or full custom and performance work. A dedicated fabrication area, in ground Dynojet 248c and a committed service staff combine to ensure your project will be completed 100% in house.
A wide variety of mkIII parts from suspension to body accessories. At Black Forest Industries they offer a complete tuning solution for your VW or Audi. Facility includes a showroom stocked with the items from our store as well as a shop for installation of everything they sell.
Site includes headlights, side markers, taillights, and badgeless grills, also a few small electrical items.
They carry a full line of high quality European products such as Hella, In-Pro, JOM, HELIX, MHW and a number of there own parts. Decent amount of MKIII items.
Great site for high-performance needs. USRT is best known for supplying fuel system parts to the VW/ Audi tuning community (injectors, pumps, regulators, etc.) as well as complete fuel-related technical guidance. In addition we provide intake manifolds, standalone engine management, shifter kits, limited slip differentials, clutches, and other hardcore products.
AMI Motorsports is an authorized importer/ distributor for Caractere, Rieger Tuning, FK, Hagus, Kamei, Mattig. They also offer a range of aftermarket & OE European
spec parts for most Volkswagen models. You will be able
to find European spec. bumpers, radiator supports, and
a few select other European spec. products. Also a great site for high-performance needs.
A great site if you are looking into forced induction for your MKIII. Advanced Tuning Products, Inc. (ATP Turbo) is a company dedicated solely to turbocharging. Our goal is to engineer and manufacture turbocharging components that make sense. While turbocharging itself is not "new", many of the components that we create are of "fresh" ideas that come from applying the basic principles of process improvement and re-engineering to turbocharging systems. Adhering to these principles have helped us to design and re-design components for turbocharging, that are often more simplified, but function better, and are more reliable.
A wide variety of MKIII OEM and Performance parts. They offer quick access to replacement and performance parts for the entire United States, Canada and beyond. Their knowledgeable staff and large inventory of stocked parts ensure prompt and accurate customer service. A dedicated, in house, computer system keeps track of customer information and inventory which helps us process orders quickly. Orders received by 12:00 PM EST will be shipped out (UPS) the same day, provided that the items are in stock.
Great site includes a wide variety of MKIII OEM and Performance parts. MJM Autohaus is a parts and accessories outlet located in San Antonio, Texas. Our goal is to achieve customer service and fair pricing that is second to none in our industry, offer products that we believe in and know to be the best for your vehicle, and to be there for you before, during, and after the sale of your product - whether it be a $5 or $500 part. We believe our goals in succeeding are accomplished only with hard work, a dedication to what we do, and unparalleled communication with our customers.
Huge selection of OEM and Performance parts. Great site!! They have almost everything.
Also has a huge selection of OEM and Performance parts, once again another great site!! Lots of euro goodies.
A solely body styling company. Pieces are too extreme for me, but good to some I bet
Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.
Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.
Too Low? Go here for all your skidplate needs.
A great site for high performance and turbocharging needs. At Pagparts, we are aware that attaining quality products for your turbocharger project is sometimes frustrating. We carry a complete line of components such as turbo manifolds, Garrett turbochargers, wastegates, flanges, oil lines, flex pipes, downpipes, adapters, etc. Please peruse our catalog.
Not sure if they have any MKIII items, but a great source for custom ecu chips.
We all know Autotech. Great products, great people.. Intelligent answers to your sport tuning questions. Professional guidance through the bewildering world of state-of-the-art automotive high-tech. We're ready to help you with a full selection of parts that work and tips for using and installing them. A wealth of experience you can tap for the best value in sport tuning, no matter what your budget. We like Volkswagens. It's that simple. We drive them and we know what it takes to tune them. We've been through just about everything with the watercooled VWs and we've got a clear idea of what works and what doesn't. We can take the speculation and guesswork out of properly sport tuning your Rabbit, Scirocco, Jetta, Golf, Passat, or Corrado. Our people have been in the watercooled Volkswagen business since the beginning. We know what's out there and what's coming. We're out to do it better - selecting, designing, offering you the best.
42 is a manufacturer of custom parts and accessories for modern Volkswagens and Audis. Our manufacturing capabilities include plastic injection molding, thermoforming, CNC machining, fabrication, and electronics design. Check out our products section to see what we've been working on.
Has a good selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Easy to use and get around.
Also has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, once again another great site!! Really cool site
Huge OEM parts selection. At 1st VW Parts we promise 100% Genuine Factory Volkswagen Parts and Volkswagen Accessories at less than dealer wholesale prices!
Good site. Since opening in 2003, we’ve spent the past few years developing and testing our product line to insure that we have the best of what the European aftermarket has to offer for your car. We also offer a full line of OEM Euro upgrade parts to give your car the look and feel you've been waiting for. From launch, we’ll be continually adding product to make Induktion Motorsports and 4induktion.com your complete source for your European car.
For all your Forced Induction needs, awesome site!! We offer a wide range of services for your vehicle. From custom intercoolers to dyno tuning your car we can tailor to your needs.
Great OEM website. GermanAutoParts.com is your comprehensive parts source for European automobiles, specializing in Volkswagen, Audi, Porsche, BMW, Mercedes-Benz, Saab and Volvo. We can save you time and money by delivering original equipment parts directly to your door at up to 70% off dealer list prices.
By the looks of it, quality rear strut and sway bars for an unbeatable price. O-Bars is a company dedicated to the driving pleasure of Volkswagens. The products that we offer are intended with this in mind, and also for the performance minded individual on a budget. O-Bars are made from a high quality steel and come with detailed instructions and all hardware for the installation. The design of the bars are described in more detail on our product pages, as are prices.
Once again has a huge selection of OEM and high Performance parts, another great site!! Performance-Cafe.com is not just a large warehouse shipping your products. We are a full service VW repair shop and retail store. If your in the area feel free to drop in! No need to make appointments, we are open 9-5 M-T and 9-4 friday. Because we install the parts here we can give you the best first hand help with installing it yourself or with any technical questions you may have. Not to mention we have some of the most reasonable service rates in the bay area.
Read this thread for updates as of Jan 2008.
Original post linked to is this:
Quote, originally posted by hookdub » I hope the steps don't seem weird because I got a wrong rebuild kit the first time so I painted it then rebuilt it. This way I didnt have to wory about overspray on the rubber.
If you decide to paint, get the 2 stage kit it's tougher, but when/if you're painting the underside go lite. Putting too much paint will make the pads a tight fit.
Caliper Guide Pin Boot Kit
Caliper Repair Kit
Bleeder screw with check valve
DOT 4 ATE blue brake fluid
For a MK3 upgrade get a set of G60 Corrado rotors & pads. (EBC pads & brembo slotted) The calipers bolt up like they were made to fit
Get the bleeder screws with the check valve. With this check valve you can bleed you brakes by youself without the tool.
Wire wheel the heck out of it & get all of the corners.
for all the fans file & smooth the casting marks on the carier and calliper
I was carefull with poping out the piston. 40psi worked for me. Use a bunch of brake clean in and out so you dont get grit in the caliper durring the rebuild
Remone the o ring from the caliper with something softer than steel and be carefull not to scratch the walls. Replacing the o-ring is simple enough.
Make sure to coat the o-rings and boot seals with brake fluid for a positive seal. Lube the piston and caliper wall with new brake fluid for assembly lube. Here is the tricky part I found it easy to slide the seal on the groove of the piston so the seal can be unfolded.You see how the seal is sitting, the side that seals with the caliper is sitting slid up from the piston. Now with the seal sitting on the piston arrange the piston in the calliper so you can seat the seal with the calliper while keeping it on the piston. It took me a while but it is the best way as to not destroy the seal. I pressed the piston in by hand with a little TLC. I HIGHLY sugest you slide the piston in and out using the air and wood (3 pics up). I didn't get the seal right the first time even though it looked ok until I cycled the piston.
make sure the bleeder screw is facing up when installed to make sure you didnt install them upside down
The slider pins, boots and the bleeder screws are easy enough.
Make sure to grease the slider pins, this will make sure you caliper dosent bind.
Last thing is to bleed the brakes. I used a turkey baister to remove old fluid from the master. I then toped off the master cyl and purged a bunch through the line.
Once you start bleeding keep an eye on the master.
Modified by nater at 9:35 PM 1-2-2008
Quote, originally posted by Massboykie » Hey Everyone
If you need to know what options your car came with from the factory, get your PR codes and try this out...
Quote, originally posted by NorthernWolfsburg » I had this saved in a microsoft word document. If you want the pictures IM me with your email address. and i'll send you the whole file.
One-Touch Sunroof Open (DEI Timer Relay) Installation Instructions by Toby Erkson
It is recommended that you have a Bentley shop manual as a reference during this procedure.
Remember, the compass directions of the car are always in relation to the centre line of the car with someone sitting in it. Thus, FRONT is where the headlights are, REAR is where the exhaust tips are, LEFT is the driver side of a USA car, and RIGHT would be the passenger side of a USA car. For those who know boats, LEFT is still PORT and RIGHT is still STARBOARD. This is important to understand as a standard because you may end up facing the rear of the car, thus your left & right will not be the same as the car's left & right
These instructions are based upon the installation of the 528T pulse timer relay (here or here) in my 1995 Jetta III GL OBD I car for allowing a one-touch operation for opening the stock sunroof. This document is meant for someone who is comfortable and skilled to work on their own car and around wires, voltmeters and crimp-on style wire connectors. As always, it is best to read this entire document, test fit and 'eye-ball' everything so there will not be any surprises during the installation.
Installing the timer.
What the parts look like (generic automotive relay not shown):
Remove the motor trim cover by pushing back the sunroof perimeter trim from the headliner and freeing the rear lip of the cover. Pull down enough to clear the sunroof perimeter trim then pull cover back (to the rear of the car). Next, remove the lights/sunroof controls from the headliner by using either your fingers or a flat-bladed screwdriver to pry the assembly away.
Pull about 4 inches of the headliner away from the sunroof perimeter trim on the left side. Thread the DEI (DEI timer relay) from the motor opening to the switch opening. Slip the DEI above the headliner in gap to the left of the motor with the timer adjusting dial pointed towards the sunroof motor (see below image).
Put headliner back into place. Wrap the end of the orange DEI wire with electrical tape and tuck it away. I stuffed mine in the foam that's in front of the switch assembly opening.
This next step is where some wire crimping experience and comfort with wiring is necessary. Do not perform this next step if unsure or uncomfortable with cutting wires, crimping connectors or reading wiring diagrams -- have a friend or mechanic do it for you. Wire everything together as shown in the below wiring diagram:
Where the green wire is cut is where you would use male/female spade or bullet connectors to connect the ends to the generic relay (post #85) and the DEI (brown wire).
Close-up of the power supply tap in the flat, 6-wire connector located on the sunroof motor:
This is what it will basically look like when done. Note that I did wrap electrical tape around the posts on the generic relay to hold the wires securely to the unit and protect them from shorting against anything.
Stuff the wiring and generic relay into the switch opening, up and over to the driver side sun visor area. Push sunroof switch assembly back into place.
Adjusting the timer.
There is a power cut-off switch in the 3 positions of the sunroof:
a. full close
b. full vent open
c. full open
These stop power to the motor once the sunroof has reached the end of its travel and thus keep the motor from "burning up", so applying power a little longer will not damage the motor. It is no different than manually pressing the desired button longer than necessary. So, with that in mind...
1. Turn ignition switch to the Accessory position
2. Turn DEI adjustment dial to the 9 o'clock position
3. Push the sunroof open button and listen to the DEI relay. The relay should click off about 1 second after the sunroof stops
4. Adjust the DEI dial very slightly. Clockwise to lengthen the open time and counterclockwise to lessen the open time
5. Close the sunroof all the way
6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5 until you are satisfied with the opening time
Note: I made my adjustments from the full open vent position (sunroof tilted up).
When satisfied with opening time, replace the sunroof motor trim cover. Instructions that came with the timer. Done!
Quote, originally posted by ninety9gl » Another easy (cheap) way to smoke your own tail lights is to use VHT NiteShades. You should be able to find a store online that sells it if you Google it, and I know Advance can get it through Keystone (if that store knows how to order stuff from keystone).
You really should take the taillights off of the car to do it - that, and the real trick to get it done right is to clean the lights first (I used glass cleaner and water, just make sure they're bone dry before you start spraying).
Just don't overdo it, and as long as you know how to spray paint smoothly, you'll be good.
Two big myths - it's not "just black paint", it works by blocking light from coming into the lamp to reflect off and if you do it right it's not going to chip off or peel (I haven't had any problems with any of the cars I've done this to).
Quote, originally posted by vanaman » first you have to get out the stock fogs.
for me that required the removal of the bumper.
first thing you need to look at fogs and make sure you understand what needs to be cut.
for my long fogs this is what needed cut.
here it is after i cut it off.
after you get them to fit. i decided to zip tie them in for extra security.
and then the final outcome.
feel free to contact me with questions.
Quote, originally posted by The Gloves of Death » How to keep stock speaker grilles with aftermarket speakers:
thought I would post this since I hadn't seen it before.. and I always hear people talking about not being able to fit back on the stock grilles.
ok.... no matter what you will have to get a relatively shallow speaker.. both in the rear (not deep) and flat on the front (no protruding tweeter). <---lulz that sounds funny.
I got these:
shallow mount and don't need a ton of wattage to sound good.
so you get them.. they look good (you have to cut off the little "posts" that the stock speakers slip onto
damn the stock grilles won't fit.. see where it hits?
so you dremel that beeeyatch and take off all the extra plastic back there other than the tabs that click it in place on the far outside edge.
don't have the door panels back in yet. but trust me, they fit.
Quote, originally posted by GTIaudiophile » So I searched for the last couple days to find a DIY on how to change a VR6 alternator and came up with nothing so I figured now that I did mine I'd share how and save someone else the trial and error.
8mm deep socket
16mm deep socket
Screwdriver for hose clamps
Hex key socket set
3/8" Impact makes it easier to get the motor mounts off.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Remove tension from serpentine belt. This can be done using an 8mm bolt through the threaded hole at the top of the tensioner. After tension is removed, slide the belt off of the alternator pulley.
3) Remove the serpentine belt tensioner by removing the 3 13mm bolts holding it to the side of the head.
4) Disconnect the secondary air pump hose from the air intake, and remove the hex bolt holding the air hose bracket to the lower intake manifold.
5) Disconnect and remove the section of air pump hose from the air intake to just behind the alternator.
6) Disconnect battery lead from back of alternator by removing 13mm nut. Disconnect connector with single wire from bottom of alternator housing. Remove the wire holder from its stud on the alternator by removing the 8mm nut.
7) Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the alternator in place.
8) Unbolt front engine mount (16mm).
9) Remove 13mm nut holding wire connectors in place on top of rear engine mount. Then unbolt the engine mount using a 16mm deep socket.
10) Place floor jack under oil pan with a board in between. Proceed to jack up the engine until you gain sufficient clearance to remove the alternator from the engine. It will be a tight fit, but it does work so don't hassle with trying to remove the intake manifold.
At this point, you have the alternator out of the car and either need to take it somewhere to be rebuilt, or you have a rebuilt one waiting to go back in.
1) Make sure that you have pushed out the shims (for lack of knowing the correct word) that the alternator bolts thread into on your new alternator. This way it will slide into place easier onto its mounting bracket, and you won't need to try and manhandle it into place.
2) Re-install the alternator onto its bracket using the two 13mm bolts. Attach the battery lead and the single pin connector. Bolt the wire holder back onto the stud on the alternator using the 8mm nut.
3) Re-install the air pump hose section you removed earlier, and bolt it into place using the hex bolt.
4) Lower the engine back down slowly into place using the jack.
5) Fasten the rear motor mount back into place using the 16mm deep socket. Place the wiring connector bracket back into place over it, and secure it with the 13mm nut.
6) Fasten the front motor mount back into place.
7) Re route the serpentine belt into place and attach the tensioner pulley using the three 13mm bolts. Remove the bolt to apply tension to the belt again.
8) Connect battery.
Now I'm not sure if I forgot any steps, so I apologize for any inaccuracies. Also, my car has a EuroSport CAI on it so if you are still using the factory airbox it might need to be removed for clearance.
Quote, originally posted by iansjetta » MAKE YOUR OWN INTAKE!!!
k guys so i've decided to post on how to make your own intake if ya don't wanna just throw on a fat filter onto a stubby lil rubber hose. Pics of mine are here:
Now first you need to get a filter and a pipe. I used a pipe and filter my buddy had on his vr6 and just cut it down a bit. The filter i have on mine is about 6-8 inches long and the pipe can pretty much be as long as you want.
What originally happened was the hose that runs from my maf to the rest of the engine ripped and was making my car run like ass when it would open up..... so what you do is cut off the end of the hose with one rib left close to the engine.
take out the stock airbox and all that fancy junk. You should have a pretty big area to work with once that is out. Next you want to shove the maf into the end of the hose that you cut off up by the engine.
If you cut the tube too short then you may have to cut out a little piece of rubber that is sticking up in the tube in order to shove the maf in there. (Cutting it out does not hinder anything performancewise or otherwise w/ your car.
I still don't have the time to find out what it is) Put a hose clamp over the hose first and then shove the maf in. This may take a little work but it will go in eventually. Obviously you then secure the hose clamp next.
After you have the maf hooked into the tube you can start on the filter and the pipe.. I chose a 3 inch pipe for better flow but you can use almost anything you want.
There are also a few options with filter placement..... you can make a ram air by relocating the charcoal box and shoving it down through that hole or you can do it howver yu want... hell run it to the back of the car lol. what i did was put a bend almost right at where the filter sits and poked it through the hole in the right side of the fender.
Had to cut the hole a bit but it worked. From there i made a little holder out of some wire, unscrewed one of the bolts holding the fender on and wrapped the wire around the screw and screwed it back down. To mate the massive 3 inch pipe to the maf i just went to auto zone and bout an 8 dollar polyurethane sleeve with clamps and clamped one end to the maf and the other over the pipe.
This is probably the best way at least I can see to do this as after i put the maf closer to the engine it seemed like i had a more crisp throttle response and that it idled alot smoother but that was most likely just from the intake.
Now there is another way you can do this and it takes like two minutes. I first had my engine like this and it worked alright actually. Take the top off of the filter box and the filter out. Use the same 6-8 inch filter and kind of jam it into the filter box. You may be able to cut it down w/ a sawz all or something and you may wanna secure it down there with a piece of wire.
If you have the right filter (like i said came off a vr6 corrado) it won't move in that box even w/out somethin holding it down. Let me know if anybody else tries it and how it works for you!
***Nater broke up the paragraph to make it easier on the eyes (to read)***