Quote, originally posted by vwabbitman » Front bumper light turn signal mod (no extra wire needed)
Modified by vwabbitman at 4:56 AM 6-2-2007
Quote, originally posted by Massboykie » Hey Everyone
If you need to know what options your car came with from the factory, get your PR codes and try this out...
Quote, originally posted by domlicious » Here's a detailed writeup for putting hood struts (lifts) on. Took my less than 30 minutes and $17.00. No drilling required!
Quote, originally posted by NorthernWolfsburg » I had this saved in a microsoft word document. If you want the pictures IM me with your email address. and i'll send you the whole file.
One-Touch Sunroof Open (DEI Timer Relay) Installation Instructions by Toby Erkson
It is recommended that you have a Bentley shop manual as a reference during this procedure.
Remember, the compass directions of the car are always in relation to the centre line of the car with someone sitting in it. Thus, FRONT is where the headlights are, REAR is where the exhaust tips are, LEFT is the driver side of a USA car, and RIGHT would be the passenger side of a USA car. For those who know boats, LEFT is still PORT and RIGHT is still STARBOARD. This is important to understand as a standard because you may end up facing the rear of the car, thus your left & right will not be the same as the car's left & right
These instructions are based upon the installation of the 528T pulse timer relay (here or here) in my 1995 Jetta III GL OBD I car for allowing a one-touch operation for opening the stock sunroof. This document is meant for someone who is comfortable and skilled to work on their own car and around wires, voltmeters and crimp-on style wire connectors. As always, it is best to read this entire document, test fit and 'eye-ball' everything so there will not be any surprises during the installation.
Installing the timer.
What the parts look like (generic automotive relay not shown):
Remove the motor trim cover by pushing back the sunroof perimeter trim from the headliner and freeing the rear lip of the cover. Pull down enough to clear the sunroof perimeter trim then pull cover back (to the rear of the car). Next, remove the lights/sunroof controls from the headliner by using either your fingers or a flat-bladed screwdriver to pry the assembly away.
Pull about 4 inches of the headliner away from the sunroof perimeter trim on the left side. Thread the DEI (DEI timer relay) from the motor opening to the switch opening. Slip the DEI above the headliner in gap to the left of the motor with the timer adjusting dial pointed towards the sunroof motor (see below image).
Put headliner back into place. Wrap the end of the orange DEI wire with electrical tape and tuck it away. I stuffed mine in the foam that's in front of the switch assembly opening.
This next step is where some wire crimping experience and comfort with wiring is necessary. Do not perform this next step if unsure or uncomfortable with cutting wires, crimping connectors or reading wiring diagrams -- have a friend or mechanic do it for you. Wire everything together as shown in the below wiring diagram:
Where the green wire is cut is where you would use male/female spade or bullet connectors to connect the ends to the generic relay (post #85) and the DEI (brown wire).
Close-up of the power supply tap in the flat, 6-wire connector located on the sunroof motor:
This is what it will basically look like when done. Note that I did wrap electrical tape around the posts on the generic relay to hold the wires securely to the unit and protect them from shorting against anything.
Stuff the wiring and generic relay into the switch opening, up and over to the driver side sun visor area. Push sunroof switch assembly back into place.
Adjusting the timer.
There is a power cut-off switch in the 3 positions of the sunroof:
a. full close
b. full vent open
c. full open
These stop power to the motor once the sunroof has reached the end of its travel and thus keep the motor from "burning up", so applying power a little longer will not damage the motor. It is no different than manually pressing the desired button longer than necessary. So, with that in mind...
1. Turn ignition switch to the Accessory position
2. Turn DEI adjustment dial to the 9 o'clock position
3. Push the sunroof open button and listen to the DEI relay. The relay should click off about 1 second after the sunroof stops
4. Adjust the DEI dial very slightly. Clockwise to lengthen the open time and counterclockwise to lessen the open time
5. Close the sunroof all the way
6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5 until you are satisfied with the opening time
Note: I made my adjustments from the full open vent position (sunroof tilted up).
When satisfied with opening time, replace the sunroof motor trim cover. Instructions that came with the timer. Done!
Quote, originally posted by ninety9gl » Another easy (cheap) way to smoke your own tail lights is to use VHT NiteShades. You should be able to find a store online that sells it if you Google it, and I know Advance can get it through Keystone (if that store knows how to order stuff from keystone).
You really should take the taillights off of the car to do it - that, and the real trick to get it done right is to clean the lights first (I used glass cleaner and water, just make sure they're bone dry before you start spraying).
Just don't overdo it, and as long as you know how to spray paint smoothly, you'll be good.
Two big myths - it's not "just black paint", it works by blocking light from coming into the lamp to reflect off and if you do it right it's not going to chip off or peel (I haven't had any problems with any of the cars I've done this to).
Quote, originally posted by vanaman » first you have to get out the stock fogs.
for me that required the removal of the bumper.
first thing you need to look at fogs and make sure you understand what needs to be cut.
for my long fogs this is what needed cut.
here it is after i cut it off.
after you get them to fit. i decided to zip tie them in for extra security.
and then the final outcome.
feel free to contact me with questions.
Quote, originally posted by The Gloves of Death » How to keep stock speaker grilles with aftermarket speakers:
thought I would post this since I hadn't seen it before.. and I always hear people talking about not being able to fit back on the stock grilles.
ok.... no matter what you will have to get a relatively shallow speaker.. both in the rear (not deep) and flat on the front (no protruding tweeter). <---lulz that sounds funny.
I got these:
shallow mount and don't need a ton of wattage to sound good.
so you get them.. they look good (you have to cut off the little "posts" that the stock speakers slip onto
damn the stock grilles won't fit.. see where it hits?
so you dremel that beeeyatch and take off all the extra plastic back there other than the tabs that click it in place on the far outside edge.
don't have the door panels back in yet. but trust me, they fit.
Quote, originally posted by GTIaudiophile » So I searched for the last couple days to find a DIY on how to change a VR6 alternator and came up with nothing so I figured now that I did mine I'd share how and save someone else the trial and error.
8mm deep socket
16mm deep socket
Screwdriver for hose clamps
Hex key socket set
3/8" Impact makes it easier to get the motor mounts off.
1) Disconnect battery.
2) Remove tension from serpentine belt. This can be done using an 8mm bolt through the threaded hole at the top of the tensioner. After tension is removed, slide the belt off of the alternator pulley.
3) Remove the serpentine belt tensioner by removing the 3 13mm bolts holding it to the side of the head.
4) Disconnect the secondary air pump hose from the air intake, and remove the hex bolt holding the air hose bracket to the lower intake manifold.
5) Disconnect and remove the section of air pump hose from the air intake to just behind the alternator.
6) Disconnect battery lead from back of alternator by removing 13mm nut. Disconnect connector with single wire from bottom of alternator housing. Remove the wire holder from its stud on the alternator by removing the 8mm nut.
7) Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the alternator in place.
8) Unbolt front engine mount (16mm).
9) Remove 13mm nut holding wire connectors in place on top of rear engine mount. Then unbolt the engine mount using a 16mm deep socket.
10) Place floor jack under oil pan with a board in between. Proceed to jack up the engine until you gain sufficient clearance to remove the alternator from the engine. It will be a tight fit, but it does work so don't hassle with trying to remove the intake manifold.
At this point, you have the alternator out of the car and either need to take it somewhere to be rebuilt, or you have a rebuilt one waiting to go back in.
1) Make sure that you have pushed out the shims (for lack of knowing the correct word) that the alternator bolts thread into on your new alternator. This way it will slide into place easier onto its mounting bracket, and you won't need to try and manhandle it into place.
2) Re-install the alternator onto its bracket using the two 13mm bolts. Attach the battery lead and the single pin connector. Bolt the wire holder back onto the stud on the alternator using the 8mm nut.
3) Re-install the air pump hose section you removed earlier, and bolt it into place using the hex bolt.
4) Lower the engine back down slowly into place using the jack.
5) Fasten the rear motor mount back into place using the 16mm deep socket. Place the wiring connector bracket back into place over it, and secure it with the 13mm nut.
6) Fasten the front motor mount back into place.
7) Re route the serpentine belt into place and attach the tensioner pulley using the three 13mm bolts. Remove the bolt to apply tension to the belt again.
8) Connect battery.
Now I'm not sure if I forgot any steps, so I apologize for any inaccuracies. Also, my car has a EuroSport CAI on it so if you are still using the factory airbox it might need to be removed for clearance.
Quote, originally posted by iansjetta » MAKE YOUR OWN INTAKE!!!
Now first you need to get a filter and a pipe. I used a pipe and filter my buddy had on his vr6 and just cut it down a bit. The filter i have on mine is about 6-8 inches long and the pipe can pretty much be as long as you want.
What originally happened was the hose that runs from my maf to the rest of the engine ripped and was making my car run like ass when it would open up..... so what you do is cut off the end of the hose with one rib left close to the engine.
take out the stock airbox and all that fancy junk. You should have a pretty big area to work with once that is out. Next you want to shove the maf into the end of the hose that you cut off up by the engine.
If you cut the tube too short then you may have to cut out a little piece of rubber that is sticking up in the tube in order to shove the maf in there. (Cutting it out does not hinder anything performancewise or otherwise w/ your car.
I still don't have the time to find out what it is) Put a hose clamp over the hose first and then shove the maf in. This may take a little work but it will go in eventually. Obviously you then secure the hose clamp next.
After you have the maf hooked into the tube you can start on the filter and the pipe.. I chose a 3 inch pipe for better flow but you can use almost anything you want.
There are also a few options with filter placement..... you can make a ram air by relocating the charcoal box and shoving it down through that hole or you can do it howver yu want... hell run it to the back of the car lol. what i did was put a bend almost right at where the filter sits and poked it through the hole in the right side of the fender.
Had to cut the hole a bit but it worked. From there i made a little holder out of some wire, unscrewed one of the bolts holding the fender on and wrapped the wire around the screw and screwed it back down. To mate the massive 3 inch pipe to the maf i just went to auto zone and bout an 8 dollar polyurethane sleeve with clamps and clamped one end to the maf and the other over the pipe.
This is probably the best way at least I can see to do this as after i put the maf closer to the engine it seemed like i had a more crisp throttle response and that it idled alot smoother but that was most likely just from the intake.
Now there is another way you can do this and it takes like two minutes. I first had my engine like this and it worked alright actually. Take the top off of the filter box and the filter out. Use the same 6-8 inch filter and kind of jam it into the filter box. You may be able to cut it down w/ a sawz all or something and you may wanna secure it down there with a piece of wire.
If you have the right filter (like i said came off a vr6 corrado) it won't move in that box even w/out somethin holding it down. Let me know if anybody else tries it and how it works for you!
***Nater broke up the paragraph to make it easier on the eyes (to read)***
Quote, originally posted by koston. » The dealer has new plastic dip stick tubs in stock for your ABA. Part Number - 053-103-663 $2.52 of good preventative maintenence.
Quote, originally posted by G60syncro » On my 2.0 16v swap I got rid of AC and PS and I used a MkII manual steering rack with Canadian MkIII manual steering tierods. When you get the steering rack, you'll also need the universal shaft that goes between it and the steering column. I also have a 5 lug plus suspension setup on mine, so everything is bolt-on regardless of wether you have a 4cyl, or a VR. The tierods should be available in the States too since they're "NA market", it's not some "part unavailable Euro bullsh.."
Here's the part list:
191 419 063 C: MkIII steering rack
191 419 063 B: MkII steering rack if you can't get the MkIII one.
1H1 419 952: Lower universal shaft (top part is the same on all MkIII)
191 419 951: That's the one piece MkII universal shaft like I used if you can't find the correct MkIII part.
1H0 419 803 / 804: L/R manual steering tierods
191 419 875: You'll need a second clamp strap like the one you already have on the PS rack.
191 419 831: Manual rack boots
If you don't have AC, just ditch the v-belt and you're good to go... If you're deleting AC, then just use the AC delete belt for your application. About VR's I have no clue because they use the serpentine to drive the PS pump. If somebody figured out a length and part number, please PM me... I'll add the info.
Hope that helps.
Quote, originally posted by Georgie M3 » I baught a 1995 golf auto 2.0 bout 2 years ago. After about a month sometimes the gears didn't want to change. It would stay stuck in second or third. When going uphill the car would get stuck in gear, and id have to shut off the car and start it again. So before deciding that the tranny was blown or anything to that nature, i went to pepboys and baught a bottle of lucas transmission treatment. (The big bottle) Unfortunately, i couldn't find a cap or anything to pour it into.... You can still do it..
1)Make sure your car is cold (sat over-night) this will blend the lucas well with your current transmission fluid.
2) Take a razor blade and cut the cap of the bottle (dont cut too much, cause it will come pouring out too fast)
3) Remove the transmission dipstick. (NOT THE OIL DIPSTICK).. The transmission dipstick is smaller then the oil one.
4) Take top of bottle where you cut, and place it inside of the dipstick transmission line.
5) Squeeze the bottle slowly. It should start pouring in. Squeezing it too hard will cause the lucas treatment to leak out.
6) After about 5 mins you will notice some of the fluid leaking out from the side of the dipstick tube. Dont be scared. It slowly pours its way down. Remember, the fluid is very thick, so it takes some time to get down there.
7) Pour entire contents in. Squeezing the bottle slowly from time to time.
Should take about 10-15 mins..
When the bottle is empty, put the transmission dipstick back and start the car. Let the car warm up and then take it for a test run.
I didn't see an immediate result, It took about an hour for the lucas to completely blend with the transmission fluid. The next day - the present i noticed my car wasnt getting stuck into gear, went uphill more smoothly, and shifted smoothly even during a heatwave in the summer.
Try this before considering ur transmission toast..
This is to my own knowledge and experiance. It might or might not work for you. But if it does work, kudos to you.. You just solved your problem for 8-9 dollars
Quote, originally posted by Breezy. » The airbox/intake modification:
Enjoy the noticeable performance from these modifications. My track times prove it. I did this for the performance of course, but the sound that comes with it is unbelievable. You will have heads turning left and right when they hear it. There is no other naturally aspirated 12V VR6 that I have heard that sounds as incredible as this. Good luck.
To prove the gains for this airbox modification, I provided a link of my dyno with such minimal modifications (http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2899452). My track times prove that modifying the airbox is the way to go on these cars. (14.5@96mph with a terrible 2.31 60ft)
Best bang for the buck is as follows...
Let me say that you are almost definitely losing power with a cone filter, instead of the airbox in place because you are sucking in hot air from the motor. Cone filters work in either a cold air intake or when being used with a heat shield. To further prove to you the power loss of a cone filter in place of an airbox, here is a dyno test from Techtonics Tuning of an open-element conical filter versus an airbox. There is quite a drastic loss in power with the conical filter. http://www.techtonicstuning.co...7.JPG
First, buy a K&N (or ITG) drop-in panel filter.
What I did, and what many others do, is modify the stock airbox. All you really need is a dremel, or maybe a utility knife, if that may work [I used a dremel].
Next, is cutting out part of the front/fender side of the airbox. I used a ruler and straight blade to slightly draw out where I wanted to cut exactly. I used many of the airbox’s lines to cut the cleanest looking cut. Those who say to swiss cheese doesn't make sense when you can just cut a whole clean piece from the airbox. It will flow better air and look much more professional/clean. You honestly can't tell the airbox is modified if you do it in this manner.
Here is my setup.
Here with K&N panel filter inside...
In the upper airbox, there is a duct in the upper section of the airbox that I removed. Notice the difference in diameter after removing the duct. Quite bigger and it also sucks more air in from the whole panel, rather than a portion before.
To remove air duct, take two flatheads and stick in between the duct and upper airbox, unplugging the tabs. Leave the flatheads in there after unplugging the tabs. Then, take small pliers and grab a nice hold of the duct and pull out with some force.
NOTICE: Some people say this duct basically acts like a velocity stack and that it helps directs air to the MAF. Not sure how much it helps or doesn't, however, I still opted to take it out. I'm willing to sacrifice this piece by looking at the bore of the intake afterwards.
With the duct in the upper airbox...
Without the air duct...Notice the difference?
And the velocity stack removed from the airbox.
Remove this plastic honeycomb piece from the MAF. It's there to give the MAF the most accurate readings, but I’ve been running without this piece for a long time without any problems. If anything, it helped.
Take the following from someone on the 300zxclub.com forums:
"Removing the mesh on ya mass airflow sensor (MAS) will up the boost on turbo'd vehicles a couple pounds....this allows for more air to enter with less restriction...did this on my skyline...probably do some good for NA too.
But... the mesh is there for a reason....the mesh channels the air through the MAS and onto the sensor...without it, there is an argument that the sensor may be getting an incorrect reading...but it worked for me....its up to you...
On the 300ZX if you do the mesh removal, you will increase air volume from 300cfm to about 700cfm. It will increase your boost and your responce, and will get rid of most of your hesitation problems...... oh, and it should lean her out a bit too, good for those of you with hight boost.
And iv'e seen articles where LS1's are being dyno tuned with the mesh removed."
That plastic piece removed gives you a straight through MAF…
Remove this duct from the front of the airbox. This piece is pointless now that the airbox is opened up and there is no velocity sucking air from it anymore. It just blocks air from the front of the airbox now. If it wasn’t cut open, then this duct would makes sense. I removed it completely.
Remove this piece from the fender area. There is no point of it now that the duct is removed. It also gives a little more air from the fender area.
And the result of that being removed is more air from the fender area…
And some shots of how the airbox sits…
Quote, originally posted by Massboykie » Below is a link to a DIY to modify the VR6 PCV valve one the Jetta GLX or GTI (AAA) after mine tore off. (hose and valve fits between valve cover and air intake hose)
Hopefully it will save people some money. Been on my car for about 3 months now, works like a charm. Idling has stabilised (the tear caused a vacuum leak) and no more oil dripping over the exhaust manifold!
I made it up as a PDF so it can be downloaded and saved.
Quote, originally posted by The A1 and A2 German » SAFE MODE UNLOCKED *SAVE AS*
To re-set Bose deck from Safe Mode
1) Hold MODE + SEEK + both SCAN buttons for 5 seconds
2) Use # pads 1 through 4 to adjust the code sequence till you've reached your code
3) Hold MODE + SEEK + both SCAN buttons for 5 seconds, release, and allow a couple seconds for it to set.
HOW DO I KNOW MY CODE?
1) Your code is in your Manuel of all places.
2) Adjustante to your spare tire, on the Jetta consumer label in white, many times your code will appear on this label.
3) Pull your deck out: Some units will require a special pull tab locks to release the locking mechanisms that are holding your deck along with the obvious screws. Once pulled, there is 4 digit code on the top of the deck, however not the # that unlocks yours, can be relayed to the dealership for your code needed for $.
FYI- Dealership have done this service in the past for free, however as of now foward all services are charged by the hour.
Quote, originally posted by ghoxt » PS: I love the back illuminated needles!
I was bored with my old interior look, so I decided to go for something different.
Did you liked?
PS: I love the illuminated needles!
At this part, you have to open the gauges.
In the side, have some fasteners to release
When released, you will see the Printed Circuit Board of the cluster
The LCD screen is welded in the PCB, and you have to take off this weld like th red rectangle
When to take off the weld, the PCB will be free, and you can see the SME GREEN Leds.
Now what you have to do is change this green leds for the red
Now what you have to do is change this green leds for the red
Change the original gauges for this bought at ebay
Only put the 3mm leds, or SME Leds (like the red dots) in the back of each needle!
Like the RED DOTS!
PS: I used a Mk4 needles!
I sanded a little bit the needle's base for a perfect fit!
Put the needles at ZERO POSITION[/b[
Test using a 12V before close
Close the housing
***Sorry guys for the missing links. I am working on finding them. To the OP, if you can please send the original files to me so I vwvortex can host them***Nater
Quote, originally posted by 95GolfIIIGL » http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2750141
When I was looking for one of these, I came up with one for the MK4. It was great, and really helped direct me, but it left some things out and had some things confusing, so I figured we needed one for our cars. Here's a link to the DIY whose example I followed (always cite your sources) http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1722551. This DIY is for a 2 liter w/o ABS, and involves removing the steering knuckle so that it can be brought somewhere, and the bearings pressed out and in. You will need an alignment after this. So, let's get started...
What you will need:
-Breaker Bar and/or Torque wrench (I used a breaker Bar)
-Sockets (13mm, 8mm, 19mm deep, 30mm deep)
-3" extender for sockets
-Phillips-Head Screw Driver
-Tierod End Remover
-Smaller flathead screwdriver
-Tire Iron/Lug bolt remover
-PB Blaster (liquid wrench or something else if you'd like is acceptable)
-Jack and Jack Stands
-If you have access to impact tools or an air gun, it will be a huge help
-OH, and, Wheel Bearing Kit! Can be purchased for $24.99 from autohausaz.com, or around $30 from GAP
Got everything? Let's start!
1) Using your flathead screwdriver, remove the cover in the center of your wheels to expose the hubcentric nut. This is the 30mm nut that will be a pain in the arse. You must loosen this nut, but do not remove it all the way. Here is where air tools or an impact gun would really help. If you don't have access to these, you can use your breaker/torque wrench. I actually went to a shop up the street and had them loosen the nuts for me.
2) Once you've got your nut loose, Jack up the car and support it with your jack stands. Now remove the lug bolts and the wheel. With the wheel off and out of the way, it's time to get to the real work.
3) The first thing to remove is your caliper and caliper bracket. Your caliper bracket is held on by two 17mm bolts behind the rotor. You should be able to remove the whole caliper and bracket assemly at once, but if you can't, you can remove the caliper itself by removing the 13mm bolts that hold the caliper in (found near the 17mm bolts) and removoving the caliper and brake pads.
4) DO NOT let the caliper hang by the brake line. Instead, using your twine or wire, suspend the caliper from the springs.
5) Remove the phillips head screw from the rotor. If your screw is rusted in, you may beed to put the screwdriver in place and tap it a couple times with your hammer. I ended up having to drill one of the screws out, but managed not to destroy the threads. Once the screw is out, remove the rotor (if your rotor feels a little rusted on, you can tap the inner edges on the back of it with the hammer lightly. This will help get it off).
6) Now remove the dust shield using your 8mm socket. There are two nuts that need to be removed, then it should come right off. Mine is a little bent and rusted from one bad night (don't ask)
7) Time to remove the Tierod End! First you will have to remove the 19mm nut on the bottom of the tie rod end. this nut can be on really tight, which is why we are doing this step first, with everything else still attatched. Once this nut is off, you will need your tierod end remover. Insert the wedge end inbetween the knuckle and the tierod end, and hammer the other end until the tierod end and the knuckle seperate. Mine were on really tight, so it took a while. [Note: it might be a good idea to put on new tierod ends. They are $18 each from GAP. Also, you should use this opportunity to check the stiffness of your inner tierods]
8) With the Tierod now disconnected, It's time to go after the three bolts on the bottom of your control arm. These 13mm bolts hold the ball joint to the control arm. You will want to remember how tight they were/how much they protruded from the control arm. One easy way to do this is to mark their position. Then go ahead and remove them. The control arm will now be seperated from the steering knuckle. You should now remove the Hubcentric nut that you loosesned at the beggining, and the washer underneath it.
9) Now Loosen the 19mm nuts and bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut. You may have to hold the nuts in place while turning the bolts. this is where that 19mm wrench comes in handy. Once these nuts are loose, but not out, it is time to remove the axle stub from the steering knuckle. Pushing the axle into the steering knuckle, you will be able to turn the steering knuckle and swing it away from the axle. The axle stub should come out of the steering knuckle, and you can swing the knuckle to the side. Now finish removing the bolts holding the steering knuckle to the strut (bottom first), and voila!
10) Your steering knuckle is now removed and ready to be taken away to have your old bearings pressed out, and your new pressed in. Then, you get to put it all back together, and bring it for an alignment! Yay!
-When reassembling, you may want to use thread anti-sieze on some of the bolts that gave you trouble .
-If your axle stub doesn't want to come out of the steering knuckle, put the 30mm nut back on and thread it until it is flush with the end of the stub. then you can hit it a few times to drvie the stub out without mushrooming the end of the stub.
-Try blasting EVERY nut, bolt, and screw with PB Blaster or whatever you are using a day in advance, and then again at the start of your project. many of these nuts and bolts may have been rarely or never removed, thus they may be rusted into place.
Soooooo That's it! Pictures, directions, and all. I hope everyone likes it, and that it helps some folks, because Vortex and freinds have helped me a ton. If you find some of the pictures confusing, I took them during the reassembly, so some nuts and new and the hub had been resurfaced.
Quote, originally posted by SilverBullet006 » OK, Here is my contribution...
DIY for recovering the MK3 Head liner...
Original thread: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2733846
Note that the MK2 Headlinner has a ''fiberglass shell'' but the MK3 does NOT. It is constructed in a manner of layers: Fabric, foam, construction paper, more foam, last sheet of construction paper.
When I did mine, I did not do what the MK2 fellows do, such as tear off old fabric and scrub off foam residue to leave but the shell.
I was kind of worried that if I tried to take off the old fabric, it would pull some foam off as well and end up tearing out spots of the construction paper. That would have turned out a disaster...beeing that there is no shell. I would have ended up with holes in the headlinner.
Therefor, I stuck my fabric right over the original one, since it was freshly vaccumed, and had no saggin spots.
It is a good idea to have an other set of helping hands! It took me 3 hours to do a great job.
1- What I did is that I got 2 BIG cans of 3M Super 77 spray adhesive:
2- Then I took my fabric of choice, in my case black Suede.
3- I started by laying-out the fabric on the headlinner and cut off excess. Made sure I was setting the head linner on a solid surface.
4- I left about 6 inches all around to make the final edges and give slack for all the recesses to get filled. Note that the picture was taken after everything was stuck on. The 6 inches I left turned out to give me enough to do the edges.
5- Once layed out flat and trimmed, I over lapped the fabric on it self, using the rear handle recesses as an imaginary guide line. There fore, I had both suede sides facing each other, folded one on each other, revealling the rear of the head liner from the handles to the back.
6- I applied some of the spray adhesive, going from the left of the head linner to the right, moving towards the back only about 15-18 inches. I then added a coat on the back side of the suede in the same motion. While doing this, it allowed the coat on the head linner to cure a little. I then added a second coat going from back to front ( opposite direction ) and did the same on the fabric.
7- I used a Richard's yellow handle fabric roller (seen in this pic...) to roll the freshly glued fabric in all the corners.
8- Once the fabric rolled in, I proceded to move towards the back an other 1 ft or so repeating steps 6 and 7.
9- Once the back half was done to satisfaction, I flipped the other half of the non glued fabric over the newly finished glued back half.
10- Repeated steps 6 and 7 for everything done towards the front.
11- I started doing the edges and folding them back. By now you should be runnig low on glue. It is important to apply lots of it and wait between coats for it to cure to have optimal results, as I have seen some that have been cheap on it and their ''new'' head linner is already sagging!
12- Cut out all holes and reinstall linner.
13- Have a sit in theese...
Enjoy what you have accomplished!
If I can give a hint, it would be wise to cut an X ( corner to corner ) where the Dome Light Switch goes prior to rolling it once glued. It will allow you to roll the fabric correctly into that curb ( right where the miror is, between the switch and windshield ) and reduce the chance of having creasses.
Make it a bit smaller that the actual cut-out, cause you will want to make a nice border after. Besides, you don't know exactly how the fabric stretches and you could end-up having a cut in the fabric where you don't want to.
In a SHORTER VERSION:
Thanks to Kevin
Quote, originally posted by Gibson5469 » Well I had painted on pinstriping on 75% of my car, one door and a fender had perfect matching pin striping tape.
Because the previous owner didn't want to pull up the old stuff, he layed white pinstriping over everything.
1. Wash your car really well
2. Get some Goof Off, this is some powerful ish
3. Your going to need atleast 2 rags. I used microfiber towels.
4. Squirt a bit of Goof Off on one rag, only about the size of a quarter (remember this is really strong)
5. Start rubbing/scraping the pin striping off.
6. Before the paint you rubbed off dries, follow through with a clean rag in a buffing motion.
7. Keep doing this, adding more Goof Off when the paint stops rubbing off.
8. If you get any "hazy" spots from the pinstriping paint put a dab of Goof Off on the same rag you've been using, and wipe the spot down.
9. Quickly "buff" this spot out with the clean rag.
10. Wash your car again
It took me 1 1/2 hours to do basically the whole car. Getting the painted pinstriping off was easier than the glue the tape left behind
EDIT - This only works if the pinstripes were painted over the clearcoat.
Quote, originally posted by FlyersFn32 » This is the harness that came with my ecodes:
I went out with a multimeter and found out the following data. As always, I am not responsible for anything you do to your car. The following is simply a reference for what worked on MY car. That said, I see no reason why it wouldn't work in any scenario.
Quote, originally posted by soccergk » DIY smoked fogs
You will need:
High temp black paint
A type of silicone glue/sealant (black would work best to get the full smoked effect)
If one or both of your lenses in cracked when removing it will come off in two pieces
1. Remove fogs from bumper…may be tricky. The first time I tried to get my fogs out I had to pull the bumper. Today I pulled my bumper because I was working on some other things. If you are pulling the bumper reach in where the turn signal is and detach the fog light harness before removing the bumper because the wires are very short.
2. Loosen adjuster screw. It is a hex screw however I used a small flat blade screwdriver, be careful not to strip it. Loosen until the projector piece is separate from the lens piece.
3. There are two clips on each side. Using a small screw drive lift then up very carefully because they will snap. Wiggle off until the 2 pieces are completely separated.
This is the clip, you can see how it locks in with a tab
4. Use a razor to go around the edge of the glass and cut the existing glue
5. Use a screw driver and loosen the glass from the plastic, you may need to use the razor again. If it is being stubborn you may want to use a heat gun or hair dryer help loosed the glue. Be careful of the glass chipping.
6. Remove glass. If your lens in cracked this is where it will split in two.
7. Use rubbing alcohol to clean where you will be painting. While you are at it you may as well clean the glass too.
8. Tape off the plastic housing so no paint will go in the creases where you will be gluing the glass back in
9. Using high temp black paint evenly spray both pieces. Start with a light coat then do a second coat, or however many you feel it needs.
10. Remove tape and wipe lens and where the glue will be going with alcohol.
11. Using the silicone run a continuous bead all around the crease where the glass goes. (I did not remove the old glue because it had a shape to it the acted like a gasket.) If your lens is cracked put some glue in between the two pieces. (dont worry about it squeezing out, you can remove it when it dries.)
12. Put glass back on and squeeze firmly. Run your finger along the edge to remove any extra glue and to seal the glass in completely (be careful of glass chips). If you have some sort of clamp that you can use to hold the glass in place that would work fine. I did not use a clamp or vice and it worked out fine. If you are using silicone, don’t worry if some glue gets on the lens, once it dried you can rub it off.
13. Allow time to dry and set
14. Admire your hard work
updated pic! i just redid them with the black silicone and replaced my cracked lense. and they came out a 10000x better with the black.
Quote, originally posted by brettpep » For those of you who need a little extra oil capacity- use a W12 oil filter and housing on your VR6. I don't have the housing number (I'll find it and post it), but the filter number is 07C 115 562. They must be used in conjunction with each other. Adds almost another quart of capacity and keeps your oil temps lower in the summer.
Quote, originally posted by V a V jetta W 3 6 » I did this DIY on my Helix/Inpro r32/mk4 looks. It may work the same on others but im not sure.
Well, i promised a write-up for the about and for those who want to attempt it yourselves. In this DIY we are going to do the initial install using dual relays without the slight fabrication. I may cover this later on but until i figure out where to hide the ballasts, ignitors, and modify the back, youll just have to figure it out on your own.
- Philips head screw driver
- Fused Link
- HID system
- 6 female spade connectors
- 2 male female connectors
- battery terminal connector
- Electrical tape
The first thing we want to do is to remove the yellow wire and ground wires from the back of the H7 Bulb. This can be difficult if never removed before. We will use these to activate the relay system.
Put halogen bulb holder AROUND the D2R bulb by hooking the top first, and then the 2 ends last. Using the pliers carefully.
Screw the xenon wire connector onto the end of the bulb. You should be able to figure out how it goes on. This photo shows the connector on aswell as the ignitor unit that I taped on just to hold it as I put the headlight back in.
Now connect the yellow and brown from the inside of the headlight that was removed from the H7 bulb to prongs 85 and 86 of the relay. It doesn’t matter which wire goes on which. This is what will activate the relay.
Now, you can ground the ballasts any way you want to, but what I did was split the brown wire in half and added a male connector that will be pluged into by the female connector that will be crimped on the ground wire of the ballast.
A wire will need to be ran that will run from the battery(which has the terminal connected to it that will connect from the battery to a fused link, that has to wires that split off. One will go to the driverside headlight that has a female connector at the end. This will plug into number 30 of the relay. The other wire will run to the passenger side and will too have a female connector that will plug into number 30 of that relay.
Now do this to the other side and after that is complete, turn on your headlights to see if they come on. Mine came on first try.
To clean up the install, find a good place suitable for the ignitor unit and ballast, preferably on the inner fenders.
** USE THIS DIY AT YOUR OWN RISK **
Quote, originally posted by TRAP STAR » http://www.vwgenuineparts.com
I can keep going...
World Impex: http://www.worldimpex.com
1st VW Parts: http://www.1stvwparts.com/ (Associated with Auburn VW, Auburn Washington)
Volks Parts: http://www.volksparts.com/
Samstag Sales: http://www.samstagsales.com/vwaudi.htm (Source for VW Tools and Parts)
Sirs Tools: http://www.gprparts.com/brands/sirtools/vw.asp (Source for VW Tools)
Virtual World Parts Inc.: http://www.parts4vws.com/
Quote, originally posted by TRAP STAR » Vee Parts: http://www.veeparts.com/
Techtonics Tuning: http://www.techtonicstuning.com/ (performance parts)
RPI Equipped: http://www.rpi-equipped.com/
Rapid Parts Online: http://www.rapidparts.com/
PAP Parts: http://www.pap-parts.com/
German Parts Warehouse: http://www.germanpartshaus.com/ (Used Parts)
GAP (German Autoparts): http://germanparts.com/
European Precision: http://www.euroselect.com/ (No Online Sales, but be sure to get their catalog, great prices on OEM parts)
Autohaus AZ: http://www.autohausaz.com/
Adirondack Auto Brokers: http://www.germanautoparts.com/
Quality VW Parts: http://www.qualityvwparts.com/
Diesel Geek: http://www.dieselgeek.com/ (Short Shift Kits and TDI Timing Belt Kits)
Missing Linkz: http://www.4crawler.com/Diesel/ForSale/ (Short Shift Kits, specialty bushings)
Atlantic Imported Auto Supply: http://www.volksparts.com/
Performance Cafe: http://www.performance-cafe.com/
Blaufergnugen: http://www.blauparts.com/ (Mostly Audi, but some VW)
Auto Tech Parts: http://www.autotechparts.com/
Bow Wow: http://www.bowwowseattle.com/
Drew Parts: http://www.drewparts.com/
PG Performance: http://www.pgperformance.com/ (Performance Parts)
Evolution Auto: http://www.evolutionimport.com/ (Performance Parts)
Street Werke: http://www.streetwerke.com/ (Performance Parts)
Euro Gear: http://www.eurogearusa.com/ (Body Kits)
New South Performance: http://www.newsouthperformance.com/vw.htm (Gauge Kits)
EIP Tuning: http://www.eiptuning.com/ (Performance Parts and Complete Engines)
ECS Tuning: http://www.ecstuning.com/ (Performance Parts)
Pro Imports: http://www.pro-imports.com/ (Performance Parts)
NGP Racing: http://www.ngpracing.com/ (Performance Parts)
GHL Motorsports: http://www.ghlmotorsports.com/ (Stainless Exhaust Systems)
Select Motor Sports: http://selectmotorsport.net/ (Performance Parts)
Supreme Power Sports: http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ (Performance Parts)
Drew Parts: http://www.drewparts.com/
Searched for "links"
OK, how about some vendors:
http://www.futrellautowerks.com (Forum sponsor is first )
http://www.newdimensions.com (have all types of parts like kamei, hagus, neuspeed)
http://www.neuspeed.com (obviously they have neuspeed stuff like plugs, swaybars, etcâ€¦.)
http://www.autolamps-online.com (HID upgrades)
http://www.abdracing.com/ (products made by ABD, bonrath, wings west, zender, etcâ€¦)
http://www.der-abt.de (a german site that offers the sweetest styling things)
http://www.amimotorsports.com/ (very good site with reiger, caractere, dietrech, mattig, etcâ€¦)
http://www.autostyle.co.za/index800.htm (the cheapest prices known to man, but they are in South Africa and donâ€™t ship to US, good place to check out fellow Dubbers worldwide)
http://www.autotech.com/ (products like zender, quaife and euro products)
http://www.awe-tuning.com/ (have GIAC, H&R, brembo, etcâ€¦.)
http://www.awesome-gti.co.uk/ (stuff like bonrath, abt, caractere, and more, located in UK)
http://www.bildon.com/ (all sorts of racing equipment, also have quaifes)
http://www.cfimotorsports.com/ (Bonrath, brembo, eibach, caractere, brospeed and more)
http://www.colour-tuning.de/ (have all sorts of products, are in Germany though)
http://www.audituning.com/english/main.asp (a European site and carry products like JE Design)
http://www.drschrick.de/ (German site, home for Schrick manifolds)
http://www.dubtechnik.com/ (have nice products for suspension, wheels, and body styling)
http://www.eiptuning.com/ (have turbo systems, transmissions, intakes and more)
http://www.electrodyne.cc/ (have many products for everything)
http://www.europartsinc.com/ (six speed transmissions, 1.8t engine parts)
http://www.eurosportacc.com/ (have a lot of products but a bit pricey)
http://www.eurospeed.ca/ (many products like blow-off valves, more stuff)
http://www.eurosporttuning.com/ (basically only brakes, mostly for Volvos)
http://www.evolutionsports.com/ (have everything, headlights, aerodynamics and at good prices)
http://www.fknorthamerica.com/ (also have a lot of products for good prices)
http://www.pgperformance.com/ (have good products and prices, headlights, body styling)
http://www.freedomdesign.com/ (Kamei, also have their own line of products)
http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many products and good prices for everything)
http://www.hofeleusa.com/ (site for Hofele products, obviously, gives good pics)
http://www.c1vw.com/ (very good Canadian site, have many products)
http://www.hpamotorsport.com/ (have turbo kits for VW and brakes)
http://www.achtuning.com/ (carry ABT, AMS, and many other parts)
http://www.tracracing.com/ (has many different VW parts, Eibach)
http://www.imperialmotorsport.com/ (have group buys and a few other things)
http://www.importvision.com (not the best looking site but have really good prices)
http://www.in-pro.de/ (German site for In.Pro headlights and products)
http://www.schimmelperformance.com/ (they do custom work with intake tubes and other things)
http://www.jms-fahrzeugteile.de (they have Golf IV parts, not sure if they have anything others)
http://www.kraftswerk.com/ (have custom transmissions)
http://www.landspeedusa.com/ (have various aftermarket parts)
http://www.machvw.com/ (have all types of parts, too much to go through)
http://www.matrixengineering.cc (have engine, brakes, suspension, transmission, etcâ€¦)
http://www.midknightmotorsport.com (have many products, have to call for the pricing and products)
http://moldynamics.com/ (have all Golf and Jetta MK3 and other parts)
http://www.newdimensions.com/ (have many different products, take a look for yourself)
http://www.ngpracing.com/ (have bonrath, hagus, kamei and other products)
http://www.o-bars.com/ (have all sorts of suspension swaybars and stress bars)
http://www.oettinger.com/ (VW styling products)
http://www.overboost.com (have way too many things to list and no place to start)
http://tuningzubehor.com (have many aftermarket parts for VW and other makes)
http://www.performance-cafe.com/ (have many products and specials all the time)
http://www.ptuning.com (have products for VW and other makes)
http://www.projektzwo.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
http://www.rapidparts.com/ (everyone knows them)
http://www.rieger-tuning.de/ (VW styling products and more, German site)
http://www.rmrautosport.com/ (have all types of parts for VW and other makes)
http://www.hellausa.com/ (VW lighting products and other things)
http://www.rpi-equipped.com/ (have tons of products and good pricing)
http://www.srsvw.com/ (have GIAC chips and suspension)
http://www.caractere-automobile.be (Caractere styling products for VW)
http://www.skperf.com/ (have some pretty nice aftermarket products)
http://www.estrictlyforeign.com/ (many people donâ€™t like them but they have good products, styling)
http://swgmotorsport.com/ (UK site and have some pretty sweet products)
http://www.tmtuning.com/ (really good products and prices for everything)
https://www.techtonicstuning.com (exhaust systems and more)
http://www.vagparts.com/ (random parts for VW makes)
http://www.vf-engineering.com/ (supercharger kits and more)
http://www.jshouseofeuro.com (good products and good prices)
http://platinumeuroparts.safeshopper.com (can find random neon lights and some random parts)
http://www.vwperformancenorth.com/ (have styling parts for VW models, kind of pricey)
http://www.volksdraggin.com/ (have all sorts of performance parts, brakes, styling, wheelsâ€¦..)
http://www.1552design.com/ (again everyone knows this site, good products and prices)
http://www.advancedmotorsport.com/ (good prices and products, browse away)
http://www.altramotorsport.com/ (good prices and good specials)
http://www.bbrsportsline.com/ (all sorts of classy styling products, ABT, Caractere, AC snitzer (for BMW)
http://www.europeanspeedsport.com/ (Eibach, Neuspeed, PIAA, Borla, JOM, etcâ€¦.)
http://www.evolution-racing.com/ (many performance parts, not only for VW)
http://www.gmpperformance.com/ (have various VW parts, mostly Mercedes though)
http://www.hopefungautoparts.com/ (Brembo, Hella, Bosch, and more)
http://www.momentummotor.com/ (some sweet products, and good prices)
http://www.motronixmotorsports.com/ (lots of products, very pricey though)
http://www.pes-tuning.com (all sorts of products, like exhaust, shifter, etcâ€¦)
http://www.supremepowerparts.com/ (group buys a few other things)
http://www.wrdusa.com/ (VW racing, rally and road racing products)
http://www.fastvws.com (very good product and prices)
http://www.evoms.com/ (brakes, intakes, superchargers, and more)
http://www.zender.de/ (German styling company, very nice products)
http://www.z-engineeringusa.com/ (Supercharger kits for VW cars)
http://www.bahnbrenner.com/ (lighting, engine, styling, everything, very good site)
http://turn2usa.com (motor mounts, intakes, pulleys)
http://www.parts4vws.com (very popular sites, very good prices and products, have everything)
http://www.jrswaterworks.net (have to call for products and prices)
http://www.purems.com/ (all sorts of aftermarket products for VW and others)
http://www.goapr.com/ (turbo kits for VW, Audi, Porsche and exhausts)
http://www.ferodoracing.it/ (ferodo racing brake and brake kits)
http://8vturbo.com/ (turbo parts and other performance parts)
http://www.adrenalinmotorsport.com/ (various performance parts for VW)
http://www.advancedclutch.com (clutch kits for VW and other makes)
http://www.bonrath.de/ (Bonrath styling site, good pictures)
http://www.dietrich-tuning.de (Awesome VW styling part, German site)
http://www.mattig.de/ (Styling and Wheels for VW, German site)
Volkswagen OEM Parts
http://www.germanautoparts.com/ (a good place to get OEM parts, pretty good prices)
http://www.ecstuning.com/ (have OEM parts and wheel spacers)
http://www.futrellautowerks.com/ (they have many OEM products)
http://www.gprparts.com/ (have the basic list of OEM parts, a good source)
http://www.eurocullen.com/ (has euro parts and more, but I am not sure how to order, good pics though)
http://www.vwparts.com/ (a good place to find OEM parts)
http://www.1autobodyparts.com/ (has the best prices for some OEM parts)
http://www.partscomponents.com/ (also has the best OEM part prices, cheap shipping too)
http://catalog.thepartsbin.com/ (have most OEM parts for sale)
http://www.volksparts.com (OEM parts, a selection but not too big)
Things to Accessorize your VDUB with
http://www.autotoys.com (amazing prices on everything like alarms, cd players, dvd players, sweet place to hook up your ride with tvs and such)
http://www.americastire.com (good place to get tires and wheels from)
http://www.avolkswagenpart.com/ (cool merchandise and stuff)
http://www.autosportvolkswagenparts.com/ (kind of like the other OEM sites)
http://www.edgeracing.com/ (have lots of wheels to pick from)
http://www.europeanplates.com (have some pretty sweet euro license plates)
http://www.tires-n-parts.com (obviously tires and wheels)
http://drivergear.vw.com/ (suit yourself up in some gear from VW)
http://www.eurowerks.net/ (euro license plates)
http://www.shgraphics.com/ (euro license plates)
http://www.germanplates.com (euro license plates)
Quote, originally posted by bikerbill2021 » I figured since everyone has that oh so frighting "alarm going off when reconnecting the battery" id figured id let people now how i fixed this.
Its not the best way, but it works
What i did was:
Bought 2 male and female connectors
Went home and pulled up the raintray
Found the two wires that run to the alarm horn, which sits conviently behind the wiper unit
Snipped the wires
Put the corresponding male and female connectors on each wire
labled one of the connecters so i wouldnt mix them up
plug them together and there you go!
Now when you go unplug your battery, you can just pull up the raintray and unplug the connectors. when you go to reconnect it, all you get is the flashing lights. utter ambience
It may be easier to use a kill switch style hidden in the rain tray or bay out of site, this is what i will be doing, then you can just flick the switch
Quote, originally posted by McKLaSiK »
or you can just put your key in the drivers side door while reconnecting the battery. it'll just honk once.
Quote, originally posted by sixblade » Well I have been having an issue with trying to get my damn spedo to work properly without having to bang that crap out of it. So I decided to take apart the gauge cluster (how-to on page 11 of diy mk3 thread).
Only do this if you have checked to make sure you have good connections all over the board no loose capacitors or anything like that.
DISCLAIMER: Only do this if you are confident in your skills of taking little things apart. I am not responsible for you being a retard and messing something else up
Ok now that, that is out of the way my how-to to fix the spedo.
Once you take of your needles extremely carefully following the directions exactly and take off the 8 screws on the back and pop off the silver faced gauges you will be looking at the top of a motor assembly that moves your needles.
On the top you will see a large plastic piece on top of the motor.
Spread the little metal tabs out on both side and TAKE OFF THE TOP PART OF THE PLASTIC PIECE ONLY!! do this carefully or you may have stuff flying out of it.
Inside you will see 3 gears 2 plastic and one metal.
Take off the center gear and then pull off the metal one.
On the underside of this gear you will see a coil of metal thats only reason is to smooth out the movement of the needles.
Rip that ****e off.
Put the metal gear back in its spot and like the center gear back up so that when you spin the middle gear everything moves in unison.
Once you do that, put the motor assembly back togeather.
Reassemble the cluster to the point that you only have the board, the gauges(no needles yet), and the white piece of plastic on the back of it.
Go out to your car and hook everything up and turn the ignition on, but do not turn the car on, and place the needles in the proper posistion, turn the key off and go back inside and reassemble the rest of the cluster and enjoy!!!
please be very careful..and this will also save everyone a few bucks
Quote, originally posted by shorty53186 » 02A Main Shaft Replacement DIY
To get to this point follow the steps for the LSD install.
Fist takes you Blow torch and heat up 4th gear.
Place your 6inch gear puller under 4th gear and remove 4th gear, the bearing and the metal sleeve all at once.
Remove the cir clip holding on 3rd gear.
Remove 3rd gear by hand.
When putting 4th gear bearing back on I found that a 32mm Socket was perfect for hammering it back on the shaft.
And that’s it.
The transmission is ready to go back together
Be sure to use an Anaerobic gasket sealer to seal the 2 half’s and the shifter.
Permetex make a product called 5817.
***Missing many pictures but thought still worthy of the FAQ. If anybody has updated pics please let us know***
Quote, originally posted by shorty53186 » I am in no way responsible for your transmissions or mistakes you may make when disassembling or reassembling your transmission. However feel fee to contact me with questions.
Also, How do I get this in the Official DIY for the MK3 Form?
I also do not discuss the preload on the differential because mine did not need adjustment.
I have found this to be true for many of the 02A transmissions.
M8 Internal Socket (Same one used to remove Half Shafts)
10mm Socket (Recommended ˝ inch)
13mm Socket (Recommended ˝ inch)
Set of metric sockets would be best incase I forgot some.
Medium Extension for socket
T60 Star Socket (6 point)
T45 Star Socket (6 Point)
Medium to Large Flat Head Screw Driver
6inch Gear Puller
Pneumatic ˝ are gun Highly Recommended But not necessary
2 12inch 2x4 blocks of wood
5/16th Drill Bit
3/8th Drill Bit
A very Powerful Pneumatic air Hammer or SawZaw
Small Grinding wheel
Brass Drift or a dowel of wood.
Needle Nose pliers
32mm Socket (or something the same Diameter)
Lots of Plastic Baggies (Ziplock is Best)
Drain the Fluid
Remove both output flanges before removing the tranny from the car. (do this by inserting one of the 13mm bolds from the differential case into the hold on the flange and screwing it in.)
Remove the Transmission form the Car
Lay the Transmission Flat so you can see in the Bell Housing
Remove the Eight 13mm Bolts and the Four Nuts
Stand The Transmission back up right and remove the 6 Bolts holding on the 5th gear Cover
Take a screw driver and pry the fifth gear cover off.
Remove the T45 Bolt that connects the Shifter from inside the case to the linkage in the 5th gear cover (left side of Picture)
Remove the two M8 Internal Socket Bolts
Lift Away 5th Gear Shift Linkage
Remove the two T60 Bolts Located at the top of each gear cluster
Ok Hear is where you really need good gear Puller. A 4inch puller will work I think. (I used a 6 inch puller later). Anyways place the gear pull not where I have it in the picture but at the Green Arrow.
Be sure that the gear puller is not pushing into the threaded slot that the T60 bolt came out of.
It also helps to heat the gear with a blow torch. However there is a plastic roller bearing inside the gear that can potentially melt.
After pulling away 5th gear from the main shaft remove the other gear. (mine came off by hand.)
Remove the two bolts that hold on the shifter, then whack it with a piece of wood right where it seals with the case in order to brake the seal.
From there just pull it out.
Do the same thing with the VW cover on the other side.
Remove the Four Shifter Pivot rods (2 on top, and 2 on bottom) They are all held in by T45 bolts.
There are two T45 bolts that hold in the reverse linkage one inside the 5th gear case
And the other between the two shifter pivot rods on the bottom of the case
Remove all the 13mm bold from around the differential housing
Lift Away the case
Lift away the shift linkage.
Remove the 1 bolt from the reverse linkage then lift away.
Lift away the Main Shaft
Lift Away the secondary shaft (the only will all the big gears)
Lift away the differential
At this point you want to inspect everything for flaws.
For example my Main shaft first gear with badly chipped. (I was getting a clicking in first gear)
And my right output flange had weird wear marks. (I ground that away completely)
Now on to the ring gear removal so it can be installed on the new differential.
First Start by drilling a 5/16th hold in the un-dimpled side going about 3/4ths of the way down. (you can drill it from the other side but then you need to drill all the way through.
Make sure you use lots of lube. WD40 words or just some old miter oil works also.
Also if you know how to sharpen dill bits you will be in better shape.
From a 5/16th bit, move up to a 3/8th bit.
After drilling the rivets, the heats need to be broken off.
This can be done by either Using a very powerful Pneumatic hammer
Or by Using a SawZaw (the method I used)
After all the heads are removed grind them flat with the diff.
Then take your punch and hammer out the rivets
From there take a brass drift or a wood and punch out the differential from the ring gear.
I placed the edge of the ring gear of 2 pieces of wood so that only the gear was supported but not the differential.
Make sure you mark how the ring gear goes on the differential because the inner lip on the ring gear is off set. (Its deeper on one side then the other).
From there it is bolted onto the LSD and then is read to go back in the tranny.
Main Shaft Replacement
Fist takes you Blow torch and heat up 4th gear.
Place your 6inch gear puller under 4th gear and remove 4th gear, the bearing and the metal sleeve all at once.
Remove the cir clip holding on 3rd gear.
Remove 3rd gear by hand.
When putting 4th gear bearing back on I found that a 32mm Socket was perfect for hammering it back on the shaft.
And that’s it.
The transmission is ready to go back together
Be sure to use an Anaerobic gasket sealer to seal the 2 half’s and the shifter.
Permetex make a product called 5817.
Quote, originally posted by yeayeayea » DIY Climate Control Bulb replacement.
First, here is the bulbs i used to do this. I got them from advanced autoparts for less than three dollars.
Ok, The only tools you will need are a phillips head screwdriver and a straight slot screwdriver.
First: Gently pry around the edge of the plate surrounding the climate control knobs. I used the straight slot screwdriver for this. Also you need to remove the ash tray.
Second: Remove the 4 phillips head screws that are behind the cover in the four corners of the control knob cluster.
Remove the 2 phillips head screws that are in the ash tray compartment.
Third: Pull the button cluster out of the way.
Tilt the cluster down as seen in the picture, then pull the top right corner out and work the cluster out of the dash. The bulb is hidden under the white piece in the center.
4th: The bulb is inside the white cover. the cover is held in by two clips on top and one clip on the bottom. it was pretty straight forward to remove, i just pulled on it. Unclip the harness from the white piece.
5th: The green piece around the bulb has two clips that are visible from behind. I used a key to unclip the green piece, exposing the bulb.
6th: Remove the old bulb, throw away. Install new bulb and test before reassembly.
7th: Reinstall in reverse order. I also took the time to remove the tape behind the words
Air Condition on the control cover plate. just a neat little change. Unclip the clear ring around the fan speed opening and pull the tape off.
Enjoy your functioning climate control lights.
After further investigation, and a recommendation by a fellow member, it seems you can simply remove the center control knob and see the bulb. then using some needle nose pliers with tape around the tips, you can pull the bulb out and reinsert it without disassembling the dash. however, it is hard to get the knobs off and you run the risk of breaking them.