MK4 Monsoon Radio in 1997 MK3 with Clarion Radio
Quote, originally posted by ..SkaJaCore.. »
MK4 Monsoon Radio in 1997 MK3 with Clarion Radio
Quote, originally posted by ..SkaJaCore.. »
Quote, originally posted by vwjn311 » mk3 jetta/golf joey mod diy:
i just did this yesterday and obviously quite a few you asked for a DIY, i'll do the best i can to provide for you guys.
you will need the following:
-black spray paint
-clear coat (your choice really)
-an oven that works properly
-calm music (your choice really)
-and most of all, patience
-remove headlamps (3 or 4 8mm bolts)
-preheat oven to between 185-200 degrees F (i personally tried it at around 190 and it worked but tried 200 and seemed to do a bit better)
-after its finished preheated stick the headlamp in the oven (do not let the lense touch any part of the oven)
-let it sit for for around 60-90 seconds (if that doesn't work well go with around 2 minutes, but no longer!)
-take out the headlamp and use the utility knife and start working away the silicone (once i had most of it removed all around i used a knife and easily pryed it open to where i could fit an unused pencil to keep that open a little bit and worked my way around the whole headlamp)
*the lense should come off a bit easier doing it that way
-repeat step two and three for the other headlamp
*BE SURE AND TAKE YOUR TIME WHILE DOING STEP THREE!
-after the lense is removed get your newspaper, black primer, black spray paint (or color of choice), clear coat, and masking tape
-use the masking tape to cover the area you do not want to be black, or you can find a more simple way of doing it go for it
-apply the black primer
-after the primer has dried apply as many coats of black paint as you'd like (i used 2 coats per headlamp to be safe)
-after your last coat of black paint has dried, apply the clear coat (i only used one coat of clear)
-once its completely finished and nice and dry, remove the masking tape
-repeat step four for the other headlamp
*while waiting for them to finish drying i cleaned the lenses inside and out with some window washing spray stuff and got them looking more clear
-once you've finished letting the paint dry apply the silicone sealent all the way around and place the lense on and make sure its placed correctly.
*if some of the silicone comes up on the sides just leave it until it has completely dried and use the utility knife to cut the extra off the sides.
*allow the silicone 24 hours to make sure its finished and is completely sealed off.
-once everything is completely finished drying and secure, put the headlamps back on and then the grille.
BE SURE AND TAKE YOUR TIME THROUGH THE WHOLE PROCESSS! it does take time but is well worth it. i will not be held accountable for anything followed in this diy, gots to put that
but, good luck, have fun, be safe, and keep on dubbin'. you can pm me if you have any questions whatsoever and i'll do my best to help you out!
peace - james n.
Quote, originally posted by stoicbmx » Well after finding the write-up in the DIY section for faded door handles, then finding out all the pictures were dead.
I decided to take on this (reeeealy easy) task on my own, and snap a few picture while doing so.
This is a really easy fix, BUT be very gentle when removing the handles. You don't want to break anything, or lose the little spring in the door.
Dupli color trim paint (This stuff is like dye more then paint...)
Wax and grease remover
Tip: You can use a US dime to cover up the key hole completely with some thin double-sided tape. Works like a charm.
STEP 1. Remove this torx bolt
STEP 2. Now is the time to be very gentle
1. Slide the handle forward
2. With forward pressure, pull the handle
3. remove it a little, and peak in to make sure the spring is still attached. If not, take it out. Then remove the handle.
STEP 3. Clean up the handles with some wax and grease remover
STEP 4. Tape up all the brackets and such, then paint away (i chose not to sand them)
Remeber many of THIN coats, not 1 thick coat!
STEP 5. Re-assemble in reverse order
Quote, originally posted by corrado1013 » Taking apart a Mk3 cluster to change bulb color
the green film for the lights is inside this white piece.
pull back and up on it and it will open.
there is the green filter. replace with the color of your choice
there are 8 screws on the back of the cluster. they require a T10 size torx screwdriver
pull apart the black housing from the white housing.
pull needles off (VERRRRRY Gently). pull straight up!!! you only need to remove the tach and speedo needles. i've heard using a fork works good. two flatblade screwdrivers works good too... but put a cloth under it so you don't scratch them gauges. i'm going to try that soon. i find it best to take off the needles here... even though the following pictures may have them on still.
.. there is a small white clip on the edge of the board, which keeps it in place. pull the clip back and pull up on the board, there's another clip which is on the right side of where the brown harness plugs instill holding it, so don't break anything trying to pull it off real hard.
separate the white housing from the circuit board.
put the board back on the white housing to support it without breaking needles.
there are a total of 8 screws. 4 for each of the two big gauges. These require a T8 size torx screwdriver.
there is no need to remove the small silver screws in the middle of this picture.
pull off black motor/lcd housing. the motors for the gas and temp are attached to this so you'll need to push them out of the circuit board on the the backside. make sure to keep the lcd's oriented with the connectors the right way.. its easiest if they come off on the end with the circuit board.
pull apart lcd's. make sure to keep the connectors oriented the right way.
replace the green filter paper with the color of your choice. cut it to the same size/shape.
don't lose these guys along with the black pieces for the buttons... and make sure they are in the right place or your buttons won't work correctly. its easiest if you put them upside down in the black housing so they are in right
Quote, originally posted by Cybersombosis » Well since no one has submitted an aftermarket alarm to MK 4 switchblade remote circuit board swap, I thought I’d post one after completing the final steps last night. This DIY is for a Black Widow 2 button remote. I am sure that all these generic 2 button remotes are very similar and the procedure would be very similar. Most fobs are approximately the same size so I am assuming that if you are going to attempt this, you will have something similar to the size of my fob in the pictures to follow.
The tools that you will need to work with are
- razor knife
- soldering pen (15-25 watts)
- some sort of small vise to hold the piece your working on(I used my fly fishing, fly tying vise)
- wire (I used cat 5 ethernet cable. Small gauge solid copper wire that is color coded)
- small chisel
- electrician’s tape
- extra LED’s. Surface mount LED’s are small enough to fit in the space required. On the original Mk 4 keyfob there is a surface mount red LED that will fit nicely (assuming you have the same keyfob that I got off of eBay). I broke the contacts on my original one so I ordered 5 red and 5 green from my local electronics store.
Here is what I had to work with.
First things first. If you are going to attempt this, make sure you have the aftermarket alarm keyfob programmed. On my first attempt, I used an extra fob I had lying around and didn’t remember to program it. From the first cut I didn’t know if it still worked or not. On the second fob I realized that programming it prior to cutting the circuit board was a must. I essentially used my first fob as a mock up making sure the cut pieces fit the interior of the fob space wise. The second attempt had me running back and forth from my work desk and the car making sure that the fob worked with every new cut and solder. I highly recommend that you take it very slow and make sure your remote works after every cut and solder. Otherwise you are flying blind. Also I stuffed a sock in the aftermarket alarm’s siren so that you could hardly hear the chirp chirp when arming and disarming the alarm constantly throughout this process.
The biggest challenge was getting that big battery into the small space. I had to work around the things that I could not change. I tried to use the 3 volt button battery but the alarm fob decided not to work after hooking it up to the terminals. At first I thought that I would never be able to fit all of the guts of the aftermarket keyfob into the Mk 4 fob but after gutting the interior of the fob of any extra tid bits. I had more room to work with. I took my soldering iron and melted away space for the battery and circuit board then took a chisel and razor knife to cut any of the melted plastic that was still in the way.
You will constantly have to make more room for the components so don’t do any extra work that you don’t need to. Just cut away the obvious things that are sticking out like the circuit board plastic pins and the battery housing for now.
On to the circuit board. Here is a picture of the prospective cuts I will need to do.
After making the first cut on the bottom, I soldered solid wire to the chip fingers that lead down to the circuit to save space. To attach the leads that led from the back and front of the circuit board, I scraped the green circuit board coating coving the copper traces and then prepared the surface and wire you are adding with a touch of flux. The key here is to get some solder onto the tip of your pen first so that you are not waiting for the surfaces to heat up when you have your pen touching the components. Damage can occur if too much heat is applied to the delicate components. Essentially I just tapped the parts I wanted to be attached with the soldering pen and let them fuse together.
Here is a picture of the original cut circuit board. Please note that with the second attempt, the first cut was made and then attached to the remaining three quaters of the circuit board and not as shown as the second cut half way up the board.
With the first cut, I left everything in tact including the battery terminals so that it was easy to test the unit. I clipped the terminals off at the last moment for final fitament. Now for the test.
A point of note, when you have the bare circuit board and are attempting to test the fob, make sure you are not touching the circuit board with your bare hands. I found that a lot of the initial tests worked sometimes and sometimes not depending on how I was holding the bare fob. I am assuming the circuits were either grounding or shorting out on my oily hands or something to that effect. I just held the keyfob in my shirt while testing and that seemed to work fine.
I pushed button 1 and it armed/disarmed, then on to button number 2 and the same. Test completed. Now if you find that you are not getting the results you would if the original circuit board was in tact then back track to all the circuits and make sure you got them all. On the initial cut I had to make 8 connections (16 solders). Make sure the fob is working properly before you move on to the next step. It’s impossible to trouble shoot these little things unless you have some sophisticated equipment which I am sure most of us don’t have. After cutting the first fob, I was left wondering what the hell? I had to move onto the second fob because I didn’t know where to begin. I cannot stress enough about testing the fob at every step. Don’t skip it cause you will regret it and give up on the project (Positive reinforcement!!! Sort of like dogs and treats; humans and chirp chirps).
After making the second cut, I used longer wires to attach the bottom half to the top half. I would eventually replace the third quarter of the circuit board with buttons and remove the third quarter all together. Attach all the leads of the first half of the circuit board to the leads of the second half.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
At this point, on the third quarter of the circuit board, there were only three components; 2 buttons and a diode.
I started to trace the leads that were from the third quarter up to the fourth quarter and moved any wires that I could and attached them to the fourth quarter trying to bypass the third quarter all together.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
I now took any wires that were attached to the buttons and added 2 more buttons and transferring any wiring from the buttons on the circuit board on to the 2 buttons that I had externally. I then removed the diode from the circuit board and attached it in the right place according to the circuit.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
At this point after removing the third quarter completely and now have a working keyfob albeit a wiring mess, but none the less a working key fob, you can now start to try and make everything fit into the space requirements. At this point you want to eliminate the battery terminals and cut away as much material as possible away from the chip. Attach wires to the leads that were once the + and - of the battery terminals. I soldered the + and - to a battery so that I could continue to test. Pay close attention to the leads coming out of the chip. On my first chopped fob I missed a ground coming out of the bottom corner.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
Here is a comparison of the original aftermarket chip to now
As you can see, I cut away a crap load of material and even cut into the soldering joints of the chip fingers into the circuit boards in order to gain more space. One of the more challenging things was to get that chip to sit well back into the remote. I will post the finished circuit now so that I can refer to it.
If you compare a new Mk 4 fob to mine, you will see that I have cut part of the top off on one of the pieces and taken a few walls out to fit everything in. The original was water tight but there was no way in hell that I was gonna fit everything in with those walls there.
Ok now you have to shrink your wiring mess to a small unit as above. The key fob at this point should still work.
The next step I took after making sure the chip was fitting into the fob was to work on the button positioning. I started with the button closest to the chip. Cut the wire to the right lengths and then soldered them together. Did a dry fit and made sure that it clicked.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
Next step is to get the positioning of the second button. I cut the wires and soldered them together.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
Next step is to shorten all the wires that lead up to the forth quarter of the circuit board. This one was the most nerve racking because in order for you to get that part of the board close, you have to disconnect all of the wires that you just attached. Make sure you copy down what wire leads where. Take pictures like me if you have a camera just for reference.
Test your fob. Make sure your fob is working properly before moving on.
The most frustrating part for me at this point was disconnecting all of the wiring then reconnecting everything into the compact unit and not have it work. I couldn’t figure out what was wrong. I checked and rechecked everything over and over. I decided for some odd reason that I should check the battery and what should normally read around 12 volts was reading around 1.2 volts. Changed the battery and voila, the fob worked again.
While you are fitting the components into the fob and have a working fob, I suggest disconnecting the battery so that you don’t accidentally set the alarm off at any point and annoy your neighbors.
After trying and fitting in all the components, you may find that you don’t have enough room for everything. Time to take out your trusty razor knife, soldering iron and chisel. Chip or melt away at the parts of the Mk 4 fob that are getting in the way.
Just as a side note, I cosmetically did not alter the exterior of the fob at all except of the key itself and changing the red LED to a green one to match my interior.
Keep fiddling with it until you get the fit you want and the buttons are performing correctly. I found that with the bottom or first button, I didn’t have to support it as far as pushing it towards the button on the outside of the fob. There was enough pressure on it to keep it in place. Only time will tell if it will shift or not but so far so good. As far as the second button is concerned I had to wedge a piece of plastic in there (the yellow piece of plastic in the side view of the circuit above) to keep it down and snug up against the fob button.
I reconnected the battery at this point to test it to make sure it was still working properly. I found that when I put the top and bottom of the fob together and compressed the innards, odd things would happen like two bare wires touching or something making the fob not work. I took some electricians tape and insulated and exposed wiring that might cause a short. That helped tremendously because I would test it at one point and it would work fine and the next time, without changing any of the wiring at all, it wouldn’t work. The tape fixed all of that.
At this point it’s quite a fiddly process making sure everything fits. Uninstall cut some more, scrape, melt, cut away, then reinstall. Very finicky stuff but worth it if you want the fob to work properly.
Well that about wraps it up. Hope this helps someone who is attempting this and needs even a little bit of a hint from what I have gone through. If you have any specific questions, feel free to im me or post up here.
Quote, originally posted by Chockomon » How to install a Fuba BetaFlex-D Antenna in your MKIII Jetta (Courtesy Dan J Reed)
1. Obtain a Fuba BetaFlex-D Antenna. I'd recommend Pottermans (www.parts4vws.com) or Antennaworld (www.antennaworld). Should be part Both places are around $60 + shipping at the time of this writing. Or you can be like me and score yourself one off of eBay for a mere $17.53
Make sure you get part number 17237. You may see cheaper parts out there labeled as BetaFlex-D, but if it's not that number it probably doesn't come with the cable (The most expensive part)
2. Clean your roof. There's nothing worse than a filthy work area.
3. Dropping the rear of the headliner. Contrary to popular belief, the headliner is not the worst part of this install. The secret is not taking the whole thing down.
First, remove the Center High Mounted Stop Light light array. There are press tabs on either side, press them in and pull it toward the front of the car. Disconnect the connector going into the top of it.
Next, remove the C pillar trim. First, remove the upper portion of the B pillar trim on the side you wish to run the antenna wire down. Read note below on picking a side. Pry gently on the sides of the trim while pulling down, it will slide down the seat belt and sit there. Remove the screw holding the C pillar trimpeice in, then pull down on the trim all along the top side of the rear door. Once you have the trim pulled off to behind the rear door, pull the trim away from the top of the C pillar. It's held in with a large clip, but it will come off. This trim is tough stuff, so if you don't get out of control it will come out. Finally, remove the plastic peice going across the roofline at the rear of the headliner. It just pulls off. Remove the Grab handle above the door and the headliner should be free on that one corner.
(Note on choosing a side: If you have a high powered audio system, choose the side that is opposite your power feed for your amplifiers. This will minimize the chance for noise introduction.)
4. Measuring the spot. I cannot stress enough how vital it is to measure twice and cut once. In fact, measure 3 times. The instructions said to measure 12CM in from the edge of the roof, which works out to be about 4.75 inches. I measured a friends car and his was about 6.5 inches in. Make a mark on the roof at about the centerline. I used a sharpie, the excess came off quite easily. Now measure your roof width. I measured between the inner edges of the weatherstripping on each side. Divide that by half and that is your center. Intersect the center of this with your first mark and this is your mounting position. Now, measure it again. (For God's sake! You are going to be DRILLING A HOLE IN YOUR ROOF )
5. Drilling the hole. You will need a small drill bit (1/4") and a larger drill bit, preferably 15MM. You will probalby also need a drill with a 1/2" chuck to accomodate the larger bit. Now unless you can get your hands on some metric bits, you won't find a 15MM bit. The closest thing is a 5/8, which is 15.9MM. This is what I used. Take the smaller drillbit and drill a pilot hole. Get as centered as you can with that hole. Now, using your larger bit, drill the hole all the way through. Metal shavings will go everywhere while you drill so you may want to have a helper hold the hose of the Shop-Vac by the hole while drilling so all the shavings will get sucked up. Also, make sure you don't drill through your headliner at this time. Use a a helper or a Coke can (Not Pepsi or any Pepsi product.) to hold the headliner away from the roof
5. Mounting the antenna. This part is pretty simple. You have a hole in your roof, and something to fill it with . Use the included sealing grease to make a small ring around the hole. Then take the antenna basae and put it into the gasket, then put both of those through the hole. The gasket won't fit all the way around the lip of the base right now, but it will when you tighten the nut. Put some more of the sealing grease on the collar of the nut. Now, put the nut over the two cables coming out of the antenna base and thread it onto the antenna. It says 17MM in the included paper, but mine turned out to be a 19MM. Get it snug and then attach the mast to the antenna base. Walk a few feet behind the car and look at the antenna and make sure it's aligned properly (Not tilting to the left or right.) Once you do this, have a helper hold the antenna base in place while you tighten the nut. Don't overtighten it, just use your judgement. Too tight and you might leave a dent in the roofline.
6. Running the cable. It's probalby easier to run the cable from the roof to the radio than the other way around. This way you know for sure if you will need an extension (I did.) Connect the power and antenna signal leads to the antenna base. Run the cable down the C pillar into the trunk above the strut tower and pull most of the slack through. (Leave a little slack to allow for the trim to be moved back into position.) Run the cable behind the trim that is on the wheel arch and then through the wiring looms inside the door sils. Get it as close to the radio as possible. My cable stopped about where the drivers side heater vent was so I had to run to RadioShack and get an extension. Plug this in to your head unit. If you are running the stock head unit, you will need an adaptor to go from the standard Motorola plug to the German standard HU plug, available from the above dealers.
6. Hooking it up and testing it out. Now figure out where you are going to get power for the antenna amplifier. A simple fuse tap will work. The antenna only draws 30mA of current, so the smallest fuse you can find will work. My head unit harness had a Power Antenna lead on it, so I connected the power lead to that. Once everything is connected, test it out. If you get absolutely nothing on AM, your antenna is most likely not getting power. If you get anything whatsoever on AM, it's working.
7. Reassemble your car.
8. Remove your antenna mast from the front fender, then remove the antenna base. I'll find the procedure and post that tomorrow. Get a fender plug from the dealer I'll post the part number tomorrow too. I'm tired now.
9. Enjoy your Fuba antenna. Not only does it look cool, but it's one of the most advanced automotive antennas on the market!
I'd probably wait a day or so after installing this to test weather or not it's waterproof.
(Not form me... forgot where I got it from..)
Quote, originally posted by Jaybop » The original site that hosted this great mod has since been brought offline. Luckily, I saved the site locally when I did this mod years ago and am now hosting the DIY. Here is the new link: http://sidemarker.colectiv.net/
Goal of Mod
..excerpt from contents of DIY
The goal of this mod is to modify the behavior of the side marker lamps in the front fenders of North-American-spec cars. Currently those lamps are lit with the parking lights. The desired behavior is to continue to have them light with the parking lights, but also to have them blink with the turn signals. Specifically, the new behavior will be as follows:
* When the parking lights are off, the side marker will normally also be off. The exception is that when the turn signals are in use while the parking lights are off, the side marker light will flash in sync with the turn signal bulb on that side of the car.
* When the parking lights are lit, the side marker will also normally be lit. The exception is that when the turn signals are in use while the parking lights are lit, the side marker light will flash the opposite polarity to the turn signal bulb on that side of the car.
Quote, originally posted by PhrequenC » after searching and asking for many days, i was finally rewarded with the answer. so here it is, in my own words.
You WILL need the following,
13MM wrench and socket or another wrench.
a eyeglasses phillips head screwdriver. (very small)
a regular size phillips head screwdriver
new ignition switch
vice grips (may not need them)
1. lock the steering wheel, and make note where it was just incase.
2. disconnect the battery with 10mm wrench.
3. remove the plastic around/behind the steering wheel by the two screws underneath using a phillips head screw driver.
4. now go under the dash, and remove the plastic peices covering up the steering wheel axel. and unscrew the bolt using a 13MM wrench&socket. Its a "U" joint.
5. Unplug everything behind the wheel including the ignition and the airbag.
6. using a vice grip, or your fingers if it is loose, to unscrew a gold bolt on the left side of the steering wheel column, its right behind the steering wheel on left underside.
7. Gently pull out the steering wheel, and the whole thing, including the axel, and steering wheel will comeout, be careful the end of it is greasy.
8. now with a small screwdriver (phillips), eyeglasses size is what i used, remove the screw where the ignition switch is, its a pretty long screw so it may take some time and it the switch wont come out until its fully unscrewed.
9. replace everything opposite of how it was took out.
Note- when your putting the steering wheel axel back, be sure to put back the large spring and align the axel correctly.
Quote, originally posted by autocross16vrocco » I know Reflexbug did an write up on these but people keep asking me about it even after I give them his link.
I started out by taking the seats apart..
Once you have the bases take the driver side base and hold it up against the MK3 Driverside seat.
This way you can see what you have to modify. Or put the seat base in the rails and you can see that the outside leg (facing the outside of the car) needs to be modified.
Once I had my measurements you cut off the outside leg. Then measure out a piece of metal the length you need (the difference between the two legs compared to the MK2 rail).
Once the piece was cut I proceedes to tack weld it in place. I put the seat in the car to make sure that it fit ok and had to bend it a little.
Once the position was right I took it out, welded it completely and then added another piece to form a triangle as shown below.
I put the seats back together.. to fit the MK3 you need to put the Pass seat on the DS and the driver seat on the PS. You will see why.
I spent 18 on the seats.. and 20 to have a friend help me/welder use.
Quote, originally posted by Cybersombosis » I was getting sick and tired of my telescoping antenna and got a shorty of off ebay about 2 years ago. Here is what it looks like.
Here is the write up on how to from what I posted at Jetta Owner's... FYI this install is for a telescoping antenna only and not a solid screw on type like the cabby's have....
Ok first thing to do is take the front driver's side tire off. Then undo the bolts from the plastic liner inside the wheel well. FYI Inside the wheel well I found a container with a tube hooked up to it... it looks like some type of air container. Anyways. Undo the bracket that holds the antenna in place so that when you pull it, it doesn't wobble all over the place. You also have to undo the grounding strip that is connected to your hood and front fender before you pull the housing down. After doing that wiggle the housing with downward force until it pops out.
When you have the antenna assembly out, there is a tube that houses the antenna. You have to pull that off to get to the antenna. You can get it off by unscrewing or twisting it off. After you get that off there is a plastic nib that stops the antenna from pulling out of the tube. You have to break that off. At this point you can pull the whole extendable part out of the housing by pulling up. Now undo the grounding strip from the housing. The cool thing about this is that I got to use that rubber nib that sits in the fender and also I didn't have to rewire the coaxial to my radio. I was gonna rig it up and go that route but it turned out very convenient for me. I used all the stock coaxial wiring.
For this particular stubby, you can take the threaded rod out of the base and are left with an antenna with a thredded hole. So what I had to find was a thredded rod long enough to get to the base of the antenna housing. Approximately 5 inches at 5mm thread. I looked high and low and found a place that sold threaded stock. So I bought about 3 feet (sold only by the rod and not by the foot) for 5 bucks. I ground a 5 inch piece off and went to work. I put a 5 mm nut on the bottom and the cool thing is that the nut fit right in the bottom of the housing and it's a metal to metal contact so that antenna is fully funtional.
At that point, I just screwed the antenna on and voila. Now with the antenna housing all set up, I just put the metal tubing that I unscrewed before back on so that the new antenna has some support. It should just pop back on with some persuasion. Now you have to feed the grounding strip from above because you can't get your hand up in there. Or at least I couldn't. Reattach the ground to the hood and stem so that it doesn't fall through the hole. Then attatch the grounding strip to the antenna housing. Now insert the antenna through the hole where you took it out from and wiggle it back and forth from above and underneath to seat the rubber nib back into place. Re connect the support bracket and button up the plastic liner inside the wheel well and put the tire back on and there you have it.
If you have all the parts from the beginning, it should only take about an hour. For me I had to go and get the thredded stock and bolts. Not knowing exaclty what I needed was the hardest part. I hope that this helps. If you run into any problems, just post up your questions. Good luck.
Quote, originally posted by makenramen » Parts needed:
1 toggle switch of your choice
10 gauge wire- enough to run from the back of the oem light switch to your new toggle switch, where ever you'd like to put it.
solder, soldering iron
first off, you'll want to disconnect your negative battery terminal before working, as the positive and negative wires are in close proximity.
now you need to remove your oem lightswitch, and disconnect the harness. locate the large gauge black and yellow wire, this is your positive wire, cut it, leaving about 2 inches still connected to the harness incase you need to return the wiring back to stock in the future.
wrap the remaining bit of wire connected to the harness with electrial tape. strip the end of the black/yellow wire and connect your length of wire to it, (i did the twist together and solder method) and connect it to the positive terminal of the switch.
now splice into the large gauge black and white wire, don't cut it, just splice off of it.
that's it! my DRL's were already disabled, i'm not sure what the results would be with active DRL's.
with my current setup i can run-
city lights/parking lights only
and the regular headlights/parking/fogs
good luck, feel free to IM me with questions if i was vague about something.
Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed » Owners Guides, Service Guides, TSBs.. anyhting with the VW logo on it, and about your car..
Quote, originally posted by jtdunc » Front Seats
1. Slide the seat all the way back.
2. Unhook the seatbelt warning wire and/or heated seat connector.
3. Look underneath the front and you will see one bolt in the middle.
May not have a nut/bolt but a push pin.
4. Remove bolt - just squeeze and push out other end.
5. Slide seat further back and it will come out of the track. Lift off plastic covers - and pull to rear.
Any problems with getting the bracket points in the rail, you can push down on the seat belt mount to adjust the inside points to the rail.
Installation is in reverse order.
1. Just take an allen wrench and uscrew the five nuts and pop out those hinges;
2. The bottom of the seats in the back is held in by a pop out flange - use a set of needle-nose plier to pull the center flange/lock out;
3. To get the outer posts out (fender side), take those pliers and move the plastic c-clamp to the rear. You will see that the post will become exposed and can be opened as you rotate the plastic lock to the rear.
Just be careful and you move the seats around inside your car as the fronts are heavily lubed with grease and you don't want that on your mats or carpet.
One hour to swap out the front and rear seats!
Quote, originally posted by Fields_Dubbin » DIY Fog Lights for MK III Golf/Jetta w/o factory fogs
I have a '97 Jetta GL, and I was interested in getting factory fog lights. However, I didn't have the factory wiring harness to do so, nor did I have the switch located in the dash. I bought the North American switch and 2 sets of fog lights from a fellow member.
The following were the items I used, and that you'll need:
1) Soldering Iron
2) Head Gun or a lighter
3) Small diameter shrink tube
4) Small snips (wire cutters)
5) Rosin Core solder
6) 1 (one) yellow ring terminal
7) 16 Gauge wire
8) Crimp tool for crimping ring terminals (if possible)
9) 30 Amp relay for Fog lights and a 15 Amp fuse or greater
10) North American Fog Light Switch
11) Electrical Tape
Remove the dual dummy panels within the bumper, and gently place each fog light into it's designated location to measure wire.
On the passenger side, I measured out a ground wire to be long enough to travel to the battery, and a positive wire long enough to go to the round connector located under the rad shroud. I cut back a portion of each wire, "tinned" the wire, and cut a piece of shrink tube long enough to cover the wire and the fog light connector. When looking at the back of the fog light, the ground is the top connector, while the power is the bottom. Although it doesn't matter, I chose to do it like that. You can open up the light to double check, this is the same for both lights. I repeated this step for the drivers side fog light.
When looking at the round connector, the Grey w/ Yellow stripe is the power for the fog lights. If you either cut the wire, or remove a portion of the casing, you can twist and solder the two power wires for each fog light to the bare powe wire. Make sure you have enough wire, because in this case it might be better to have a little too much, than not enough. After soldering the 3 (three) wires together, I used electrical tape to seal the wires, and reused the split loom to cover all of the wires up.
For the two ground wires, I twisted them together and crimped them inside a Yellow Ring terminal (10 to 12 gauge wire) and put a piece of shrink tube over the end, and used electrical tape to further seal it.
I tried to run the wires from each fog in an "out of the way" area, and zip tied the wires in a nice and clean manner.
I purchased a relay from my local Radio Shack/The Source (in Canada). It was an "Automotive Relay", rated @ 30 amps. Cost me appoximately $11.75 CAD. This relay plugs directly into the #10 relay slot, known as the Fog Light Slot. Also make sure to have a 15 amp fuse or greater in the Fog Light fuse slot for this system to work.
For the final step, I switched out my stock headlight switch for the North American Fog Light switch. Where'd you normally twist the lever clockwise to activate your marker lights and dash lights, you'd pull the lever out to activate the Fog Lights on the North American switch.
If your fog lights came with mounting hardware (ie. bolts to secure the housing in the bumper) your set. My lights didn't, so I'll have to get some 1/4" bolts and lock nuts to secure the housing inside the bumper. Middle dummy panels can also be purchased from the dealership, or the local junk yard.
This job took me approx. 1.5 hours with the tools listed above. Should you not have all of the tools, it might take you a little longer, provided you have soldering and electrical know-how. An interesting thing to note as well is that my fog lights stay on with the Low and High Beams, and I'm not 100% sure if they are supposed to do that or not.
Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed » Testing Some Engine Sensors/
- Schools in - pull up a chair
Coolant Temp Sensors -
CTS is easy to test. Also known as an ECT (common name).
Anyhow, turn car on.
Backprobe sensor with bent safety pins.
Set DVOM to read Volts DC (0-20 V scale)
Use this ASE chart as a guide.
This is a better test than using OHMs..
Testing the TPS
Most TPSs are 3 wire potentiometers http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Potentiometer
Testing a TPS is fairly easy. Step 1 - get a DVOM and some safety pins and jumper wires.
Step 2 - Locate TPS
Turn car "on" (but do not start), set meter to read DC volts (0-20 volts, this system works on 0-5 volts.)
Bend open the safety pins, and carefully slide the pins past the wires into the weatherpack harness on the TPS. Use the jumper wires and attatch them to the DVOM.
Backprobe the two outer wires of the TPS. You should get almost dead 5 volts.
Next, move one outer wire to the inner wire. You should either be reading .5 OR 4.5 volts depending on what part of the CKT you are on.
Slowly rotate the TPS through its entire arc. The voltage should slowly go up (without glitches) as you turn it. If you start at .5 Volts, it should climb to 4.5 at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). If you start at 4.5, the voltage should drop to .5.
If this happens, your TPS is working. If you get glitches, or the voltage drops to 0 or jumps to 5v then its bad (worn out..)
This same test can be done with the harness disconnected, and testing for Ohms, but voltage testing is better as it stresses the CKT some..
More than you ever wanted to know:
This should work on most TPSs out there, however just make sure you probe the right wires on the OBD II models as there is more to the TB then the OBD I cars..
Leave everything plugged in, and make sure the car is on.
If voltage is out of range, good chance sensor is bad..
Quote, originally posted by mhjett » Re-soldering the cluster to fix a broken speedometer
Thought I'd post this up in case other people have the same problem:
Last May, the speedo in my GLX started cutting out intermittently, like when I'd hit a bump. It'd come back, but then cut out again. I racked up maybe 400 mi w/ out it or the odo working at all.
Back in early June, I took the cluster out and took it apart and put it back together w/out really doing much else. Put it back in the car, and the problem seemed to be gone. Then, in July, it'd cut out once or twice at random and come back again . It would jump around every now and then, or when I'd tap the cluster while driving, but wasn't cutting out completely. It's been doing that at random ever since.
Yesterday I decided to take it apart again and see if I could find a loose connection or something that could be causing this.
Found it! This big blue resistor was the problem. It's near the speedo; there's another one on the other side by the tach.
The resistor wobbled when I pushed on it, and turning the cluster around, I saw the solder on both of it's posts was cracked.
It's the two posts right in the middle here. You can kind of see a ring around the top one, where the solder was broken:
Here's a couple pics after I re-soldered both the posts:
I've never soldered a board but it turned out well. So far, so good. Needle doesn't jump around anymore when I tap the cluster. I'm real happy I found this, and that I didn't pay $300 or something for a new cluster...
Edit: A year after doing this, my tach started cutting out again. Took the cluster out again, and touched up the solder on the pins of the wiring harness connectors on the circuit board, and that solved it. No pics though.
Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed » Hey all, just added a Glovebox to my 95 Golf. Its sweet.
I used this site - http://matndahat.dhs.org/jetta/glovebox.htm - Read this first, there may be some legal issues
Anyhow, I just thought I'd add a few tips for the DIYers.
1 - No need to use a grinder, dremel, or torch to cut out the old knee-brace. I used some Weiss Tin Snips. Worked great with a few tugs from a pair of large pliers.
2 - Make sure you reinstall the lowerairbag cover screws - they won't hold the new glovebox in, but you have to remove them to take off the old knee cover. They are 8mm, a deep socket works well on a 1/4 drive ratchet. You'll have to use the socket at an angle and crush part of the old knee brace. Don't worry if you change your mind, its will flex back. Reinstall these screws BEFORE you install you glovebox as it will cover these important bolts back up.
3 - Make sure you get a LOWER glove box, not an upper one.
4 - Expect to pay anywhere from $40-$90 off E-bay or here, make sure it comes with the color you want. They come is "beaver" (gray) and black.
5 - Your key won't work in the "new" latch.
6 - There is no light, you are on your own for this one.
7 - The screw in the far left hand corner (lower) didn't line up on my 95. But I got 4 other screws in it, and its fine.
8 - To drill the 3 holes, here's a secret. Open the glove box, and push in on both sides of the door to slip it past the bump stops. The box drops all the way down, and you can easilly get a cordless drill and a center punch to get the holes perfect, no double install like the DIY at the top of the post says.
By some cool twist of good karma for this post - MY KEY DOES FIT THE BOX!!! HAHAHAH!!!! See, good things can happen!
Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed » MY DIY PAGE -
Dan's Jetta/Golf MKIII Help page.
How To: Front Disk 2.0 Brakes
How To: REAR Disk 2.0 Brakes
DIY - Parking Brakes
Interior / Electrical
DIY - Central Locking Mod
DIY - Airhorns and Euro Turn Signal Mod
DIY - Short Shifter - Cutting the Stock Shifter
DIY - Installing Satellite Radio
DIY - Installing a Satellite Radio Antenna to a roof mount Fuba base.
Optima Battery Install
Dash Cluster Diagnosis
DIY - Front Speaker Install (again, no biggie..)
Keyless Entry/Alarm Install Information
DIY - Air Box Mod (w/Pics) (also good link)
DIY - Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge
Tech Info - Sensors and so on...
Why I no longer use Bosch Platinum plugs and aftermarket wires
DIY- 2.0 Cooling System Maint and T-stat
2.0 Vacuum Diagrams
Poly lower control arm and sway bar bushings
DIY 2.0 Manual Gearbox (020 trans) oil change, and what fluids NOT to use...
2.0 Shifter Help/Linkage Rebuild
DIY - Custom made short shifter (for real).
01M Trans Fluid change and Tips
Side Molding Repair
How To: Lower Glove box (96' and lower)
How To: Lower Rad Support
DIY - Debadge (remove emblems)
DIY - Puttin' a much cooler emblem back on..
DIY - Momo Pedal Install (hardly a big deal...)
DIY- Fuba Gasket Base Install (Golf)
A/C System Help
Passenger side water leak on the floor with A/C on fix;
Sites not by me, but good links.
Where to buy "hot rod" VW parts
"The" Book you need to fix your VW
Free electrical schematics for most VW products
MK IV "Look" Headlights install - Golf.
Door card removal (Also how to replace the regulator)
Great radio/stereo install directions!
Tire Size Program Calculator (download)
OBDI VW Blink Codes
OBDI VW Blink Codes (Factory TSB)
The DIY Group
Toby's great DIY page
T-Belt 2.0 Change
Library of things GTI VR6 (A3/Mk3 & Mk4)
Quote, originally posted by 98DUB » Well i finally got my seats in, i was going to sell them, but ended up doing the work needed to get them in. So here is a little DIY for all the peeps out there.
First start with getting the little wheels to fit in the sliders. You have to ground down about half way. Also need to grind off the little "guide" wheels (at least i did). As well as shim the bolt that holds the seat-belt deally.
After you get the seat to slide up and down the track freely, you need to grind down, or cut off the Front MKIII bracket.
then get the MKIV bracket all lined up with the seat, and weld in place.
Got one seat in, and moving....
Then i grinded or sanded the welds a bit to clean it up, and added a coat of black primer to seal it all up. Then put everything back in and enjoy.....
Better pics will follow when i get more time.
Ohh and the car
Quote, originally posted by Dan J Reed » How to add air horns, and keep your stockers.. I just did this, very VERY LOUD!!!! (Hella twin horn air compressor setup..)
Left light, side marker flash mod...
Right side turn signal marker flash..
Quote, originally posted by ewinston » A lot of people have asked about fuse and relay locations in the panel. I thought I'd post this up. Hope it helps
Quote, originally posted by jtdunc » The Ultimate How To Replace Your Power Window Regulator Tutorial!
Complete Tutorial with digital pix to walk you through the install. The primary source of this information: http://www.ohiovw.com/tools/regulator/default.asp
I want to give them credit for their great work. I just added serveral observations and tips to make the install even easier. If you can turn a screwdriver, cut off electrical tape, and disconnect a wiring harness, you can install your own regulator. Don't pay a shop $200-300 to do it!
If you want everything to work right and fit tight, it's a three hour job. I'd rather do it right than say I did in two hours - so don't rush. I just replaced my front passenger side regulator - so I wanted to share with fellow vortexers.
Buy a $50 or 60regulator off of eBay. Some of the Taiwanese copies appear to have better designs than OEM and the OEMs are $110. For that price you could replace another regulator!
Any questions, IM or email me.
Quote, originally posted by brettpep » Tired of your heavey suitcase (center muffler)? Try a NAPA# 22492 or WALKER# 22492 and have someone weld some pipe for you. It's a short resonator for a Nissan 240sx. It takes the place of the suitcase muffler, its about 10-12" long.
I did this and loved it. I gave the info to a guy on the Passat forum and he loved it. Very reasonable solution cost-wise.
Quote, originally posted by LilBlkCL »
Volkswagen Passat (B3) Dome Light Swap
One night, it struck me silly - the dome light of the B3 Passat, this kind of one;
...fit right into the existing hole for the dome light on my MK3. The B3 dome light features the larger rectangular light as well as an angled map light for the driver. I had to install it.
1. Remove the fuse in the second to last position in the fuse box. It controls the clock on the instrument cluster, central locking (if you have it), as well as the compartment lights. When I installed this I didn't, and the last thing I checked when diagnosing the problem was the fuse.
2. Cut the wires leading to the MK3 dome light, but leave enough for you to work with. There should be 3 different ones, white/brown, brown, and black/red.
3. You will need the connector for the B3 dome light from the Passat, so don't forget it when you are taking it out of the car and the wreckers. The B3 light has 4 wires coming out of the connector, brown, brown/white, red, and black/yellow.
Match them up like so, with insulated wiring connectors
BROWN ---- BROWN
BROWN/WHITE ----- BROWN/WHITE
RED/BLACK --- RED and BLACK/YELLOW
If you do not insulate the connections, they will rub and blow the fuse.
4. Replace the fuse in the fusebox. Gently tap the B3 dome light into the headliner.
Quote, originally posted by brettpep » For those of you who love having a cone style filter instead of an airbox, but hate having to deal with a K&N style filter (due to oil, etc.) I have a solution: Go to NAPA and get yourself a # 2726 PAPER cone style filter. Worked great with my intake setup and provided equal if not better performance. When it gets dirty, throw it away and buy another. They run about $26
UPDATE: After running this mod for almost a year, I continue to be pleased with it. The maintenance has been nill. I recently switched to a new, freshly oiled K&N style filter just to see if I had lost anything. Car ran exactly the same so I switched back to (almost) year-old paper filter.
Quote, originally posted by dirtylittlesmurf » All information taken from- http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1984018
Try these steps:
1) It is possible that the plugs in the back of the cluster are loose, check the connections at the back
2) Do you have a clock and odo? If you can't see those either, it might be a fuse. Check the owners manual and replace the fuse if necessary
3) Try checking the relays above the wiring harness
4) Check your ground on your engine harness to see if it disconected, if it is disconected there will be no power to the cluster. Also check the grounds on the back of the intake manifold.
5) Replace the speed sensor located in the tranny (8$)
6) Last resort... take it in to your mechanic or dealership.
Quote, originally posted by jtdunc » Center Console Lid Locked? THE FIX
I accidently closed the lid on my center e-brake console unit in my MKIII Jetta.
I didn't have that key as I swapped my tan console out for a black one. No key.
If you get a long and skinny flathead screwdriver until the right (lock) side of the lid, you can carefully pop the lid latch out of the locking groove.
You may crack some of the plastic under the lid, but superglue can fix that. No one can really see that it is cracked anyway.
Grab a hacksaw file and carefully file off the locking latch in the console. Won't lock anymore.
And besides, who are we kidding. Any screwdriver or sizeable knife blade can pop that lock anyway.
This way you'll know you can get to your garage door opener or the rear trunk button without too much trouble.
Quote, originally posted by bassmanjoshis » HOW TO REMOVE YOUR LCA'S FOR YOUR VR6!!
Well, Thadose and I decided to replace my bushings in my lower control arms the other day, which seems like a relatively easy job. Would have been probably if it wasn't for the VR6 engine sitting in the way! So I thought I would post this just so others might not have the same problem. I haven't looked around really to see if anybody else had posted this, but when we were doing it, the internet wasn't working so we had to figure it out ourselves.
When you try to take off the LCA on the passenger side, the last big horizontal bolt won't come out, it comes about half way and then hits the oil pan. We were thinking about removing the oil pan, even went to get a plastic pan so I could empty my oil into it and went to get a gasket, but we decided to try and lift the motor instead. This turned out to be a much better approach. Once you remove the intake and piping, you can get to the back mount and then the rest are relatively easy. Just jack the motor up enough and voila. Much easier to do it this way. Just thought I would put that out there in case anybody else runs into the same problem. Good luck!
Quote, originally posted by Jacon » Straight from the owners maual:
The MFA or multi-function Indicator generates the following useful information:
1 - single trip memory
2 - total trip
-Average fuel consumption
1 - current trip
2 - all combined single trips
1 - current tip
2 - combined trips
1 - single trip average speed
2 - all combined single trips
-engine oil temp
-ambient outside temp
Quote, originally posted by jhayesvw » straight from the bentley
Note: engine must not be switched off during the test sequence.
interuptions will require a restart of sequence.
1. switch ignition on for approximately 30 seconds but do not start engine.
2. start engine and let run at idle
3. increase engine speed to 3000-3500 RPM for 90 seconds to heat up the three way Catalytic Converter (twc)
4. with the vehicle stationary, run the engine at idle for 40 seconds.
5. test drive for a minimum of 13 minutes
manual trans -3rd gear
auto- range 3
test drive must be carried out without interruption, which means steady pressure on the throttle so that deceleration fuel shutoff is not activated nor is the throttle allowed back to the idle position.
6. allow the engine to run at idle for a minimum of 13 minutes
7. after completion of the test sequience, reconnect to the scan too and observe display.
repeat if still not set.
damn that was lots of typing.
Quote, originally posted by MasterJ220 » TWO IMPORTANT NOTES TO ANYONE DOING SPARK PLUGS!
1.) Use some compressed air to clean out the grooves underneath the plug hole before removing plugs. When you are reinstalling the plugs if you touch the tip in this crap it will stick to the plug.
2.) DO NOT put anti seize compound on the threads. I know alot of people say to do this but the plug grounds out through the connection that the threads make. If there is anything between this connection it causes resistance. My reccomendation is putting bosch platnum 4's in, they will last longer then the car.
Quote, originally posted by Sh0cker »
Multi-pin connector II, T8g, 8-pin, brown
1 - Right rear speaker (+)
2 - Right rear speaker (-)
3 - Right front speaker (+)
4 - Right front speaker (-)
5 - Left front speaker (+)
6 - Left front speaker (-)
7 - Left rear speaker (+)
8 - Left rear speaker (-)
Multi-pin connector III, T8, 8-pin, black
1 - Alarm system connection, to alarm system control module -J284-
2 - Open
3 - Open
4 - Ignition key on/off connection (from ignition/starter switch (D), terminal SU)
5 - Switched positive voltage (B+) for amplified roof antenna (GTI and Jetta GLX only)
6 - Radio illumination, terminal 58b
7 - Battery positive voltage (B+), terminal 30 (from fuse -S22-)
8 - Ground (GND), terminal 31
Quote, originally posted by Bariman82 » Here is how I replaced the foam and the seat heater harness on my 98 Jetta GLS. I was tired of having a part not work and even more tired of sitting off to the side at an angle for the past two and a half years. Here we go:
Disconnect the battery if you have side airbags. This may be optional seeing that you can unplug the bag under the seat anyway. But it’s probably a good idea anyway. What I’m using here is a highly specialized tool only available direct from Germany. Errr…no. It’s a piece of wire used to drain the battery of any remaining charge. Just touch it to both terminals.
Now go into the car. Remove this nut. It’s a 5mm allen key and a 10mm wrench.
This is what is under the seat. I had already taken the heater harness out a few days ago, but put it back just to show what it looked like in there. The red connector is the seatbelt chime, the yellow 2-pin connector to the right of the red one is the airbag, I think, and I’m not sure what the small yellow connector is, but unplug it anyway. The third picture in this series is with the harness in place. To the left of the seat adjuster rail is where the relay would plug in. To the right and down of the red and yellow connectors is the harness plug that goes to the seat. The plug to the right of that one goes to the switch in the dash.
Here’s the seat. Go ahead and raise the height. It might help later. Loosen the screw in front of the trim piece and the screw in the height adjuster handle. Also pop off the backrest angle knob. What I didn’t take a picture of was the pushpin setup for removing the side cover. There are two pins that you must push all the way through with a narrow screwdriver or similar object. Watch for them and catch them as they fall out. Then the trim piece just pops right off. Then remove the spring clip and the Torx bolt. Then do all this on the other side. There is a latch for the bushing under the Torx bolt. Pull back the bottom of it and the backrest will come off.
The console side.
Now to remove the cover. There are two pins in the back corners that anchor a sort of wire that stretches the cover on its frame. Unhook those. The cover is also hooked on the sides in two places using just a hook on the frame. It helps to stretch the cover and then pull it over the hooks. Then just work your way around the frame, pulling the cover up over the foam. You don’t have to completely remove the cover, but it is attached to the top of the foam with two long wires that are hooked at both ends—these are a real pain. Don’t rip the heater wires!
and after that…..
Cover’s off! Now the heating pad is glued down to the foam, so peel it off carefully.
And this is why I was sitting sideways….
You will have to notch the back of the foam to make room for the cable. The new foam is on the bottom.
Yeah that brown line is a burn mark. Nothing a little fiberglass can’t fix. And don’t bother with the duct tape…it doesn’t stick to the frame.
Here’s the new foam on the frame with the wire pad attached. I used a bit of spray adhesive to stick the edges and corners down.
Now pull the cover over it all and fasten it to the frame. It just kinda tucks up underneath the frame. And there are those two fabric hooks on the sides to help you. The picture below is of one of the two ends of the wire. I couldn’t stretch those all the way back to the holes they came out of, so I attached them to the frame instead.
Once you have the cover on, assembly is the exact opposite of disassembly. Just make sure you don’t pinch any wires. Stretch the side flaps of fabric over the studs, then the bushings, and snap the backrest on. The marked hole on that black piece goes over the marked stud. On the outside side (non-console), you want to put the big trim piece in place before moving the black piece into place.
Put on the small side covers with the pushpins, pop on the handles and you’re done. Oh yeah…here’s a bad picture of the passenger side heater harness in place on the drivers’ side.
On the far left is the relay. Then you see the airbag (yellow 2-pin), door chime (red), mystery yellow one (above the red one), heater harness connector to dash switch (black 6-pin), harness connector to heating element (far right).
Any questions, comments, corrections or whatnot, feel free to ask or PM.