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    Thread: The "Official" Golf / Jetta MK3 Forum FAQ

    1. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-12-2007 02:59 PM #141
      Quote, originally posted by daviddepin »
      For the best solution to removing hard water spots on your windows, use Bar Keeper's Friend. It works better than vinegar, way better.

    2. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-12-2007 03:04 PM #142
      Quote, originally posted by smokedvdub »
      hello all...here you go, all of mine broke the same way so i figure most of yours did too...
      first you want to take off the door panel. first i removing the speaker


      and then unsrewing the door lock pin

      and then you unscrew all of the torx screws on the sides and bottom of the door. and then you pry off the top half of the handle

      so that you can get to the two screw holding the door panel to the door

      after everythings unscrewed take off the panel being careful not to snap the door pull. and you should have this.

      you then take off the speaker bracket thats screwed into the door and then peel the vapor off from the outside of the door to the inside draping it near the door jamb

      you then loosen the bolts on the window clamp and then pull the window up all the way...it should stay barring noone vibrates the car alot

      with that done your now ready to loosen the regulator bolts and pull it out of the door



      and now to the culpritt.....you can pull the window clamp off the track and look where its broke now. at the top of the picture youll see a small recessed plastic square. at the top of this, there is a plastic quide that guides the cable that is broken off which in return allows the metal piece on the wire to pull out of the recess leaving your window broke due to nothing supporting the clamp.


      to fix this is very ghetto but it works. youll need a somewhat strong wire tie and a wire butt connector(pretty thick)...see what i mean ghetto...very thick butt... ... heres what you do. you first thread the wire tie under the cable on the track right above the metal piece thats attached to the wire. and thenbring both ends of the tie through the clamp as you set it back on the track

      you then place the butt connector over the whole to bridge the gap and the pull the wire tie as tight as you can


      in the process of doing this youll see whats happening...your basically making a wire guide so that the clamp will stay attached to the track.
      after doing this, replace everything and your window should work again. just make sure that when you clamp the window back on give it a few test runs to make sure the window is straight and not struggling on the way up. i hope this helps and i hope i can save alot of people from forking over the benjamin at the dealership
      if theres any questions im me.

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      08-12-2007 03:11 PM #143
      Quote, originally posted by Abracadaver »
      Proper removal of steering wheel and airbag.

      sorry if it'd been posted.

      Quote, originally posted by Bentley »
      1. Disconnect negative battery cable.

      2. Center steering wheel in straight-ahead position.

      3. Remove both socket head screws from rear of steering wheel.

      4. Carefully remove airbag unit from steering wheel and disconnect harness connector from rear of unit.

      5. Remove trim below steering column switch. Disconnect wiring harness connector (remove foam sleeve from connector if fitted).

      6. Remove hex nut in center of steering wheel. Make matching marks on steering wheel and steering column. Pull steering wheel off steering column.

      CAUTION-
      -The airbag spiral spring on the rear of the steering wheel must be "locked" in its centered position. To do this, hold the wheel in the normally installed position. The with wire on the spiral spring facing downward, turn the connecting ring just until the spiral spring locks in position.

      7. Reinstall steering wheel in reverse order of removal. Use new self-locking bolts to mount airbag to steering wheel. When installing trim, ensure that airbag harness connector sits in recess in trim.

      8. After installing airbag unit and reconnecting airbag electrical connectors, switch ignition on, then reconnect negative battery cable.

      WARNING-
      -DO NOT reconnect the battery cable until airbag and steering wheel installation is complete, including reconnection of harness connectors.

      -the ignition switch must be turned on BEFORE reconnectiing the battery cable.


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      08-12-2007 03:16 PM #144
      Quote, originally posted by ricosuave »
      Bentley technicians online with free assistance!

      http://tech.bentleypublishers....ID=39


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      08-12-2007 03:21 PM #145
      Quote, originally posted by Darrell »
      front bumper:

      1 take off the grill
      2 there should be three 10 mm bolts up top, and i think 5 on the bottom of the bumper. undo those
      3 undo the screws that holds the mud guard and bumper together.
      4 disconnect the lights.
      5 pull it out

      back bumper:
      1 take off the 4 covers with a flat screw driver after u open the trunk and there is a bolt hidden behind each of the covers

      2 undo three bolts under the bumper
      3 there should be 2 metal clips on both end of the bumper under the wheelwell. force the bumper forward, bend the clips so the bumper would slide out.

      fenderbumper must be off)

      1 there's a line of bolts under the hood, un do them all
      2 undo the mud guard under the fender. there are screws every where. just search and distroy! and the side skirts needs to come off as well
      3 there are 2 10mm bolts behind the rebar. get at them with a wench as scoket wont fit
      4 this one is tricky, pull the plastic mud sheild off/away, and there are 2 bolts that mount the fender to the hinge piler.
      5 there should be another both that bolts onto the rocker


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      08-12-2007 03:24 PM #146
      Quote, originally posted by daviddepin »
      The easiest way to remove your tint, and the way i did it. Is with a heatgun. You just need to heat up a corner get a piece up and start peeling. Go real slow and make sure it's hot. Afterwards just clean with ammonia/water solution and your set. If you ripped too fast on parts, you'll have some slight bits of glue. Also just clean that with the ammonia/water, just rub hard. This will also work on the rear window.

    7. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-12-2007 03:34 PM #147
      Quote, originally posted by _muppet_ »
      use a guitar string to saw the glass out being careful not to break it, push the string through the old adhesive, it might be easier if you heat it a little, have someone on the other side of the glass pull it back and forth the whole way around the windshield, then clean the old adhesive off, 3m makes kits to put windshields in cars that come with everything you need, buy one of these and re-install the glass in the new hatch

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      08-12-2007 03:39 PM #148
      Quote, originally posted by ryan2425 »
      in regards to the bouncing tach / speedo solution, I'd like to share what I experienced.

      If your speedo bounces and your tach is dead, it's probably just your speedo thats broken. the computer that calibrates the speedo also calibrates the tach. Since it's stuck in a loop calibrating the speedo, it will never try the tach.

      When putting it back together:
      I found the most important thing is to press the white plastic cover down straight.
      Ensure that everything is tight. IE: Make sure the gap between the top and bottom white piece is almost nil. If you still have an unopened engine, make it that tight or tighter.

      Also, the instructions on how to remove your cluster have been moved to here: http://www.s3designs.com/mk3_g....html


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      08-12-2007 03:41 PM #149
      Quote, originally posted by Ed52 »
      You think you have a MAF related problem. Here is a tip from the TDI club.
      Disconnect MAF electrical connector and re-connect it several times. Coat the electrical connector pins with di-electric grease(tune up grease,spark plug grease) and connect.
      What happens on the older cars there is corrosion on the terminals resulting in poor electrical conductivity. By doing the above procedure you are cleaning the pins and preventing further oxidation.

      Also soaking the MAF element in alcohol may solve drivability issues.


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      08-12-2007 03:44 PM #150
      Quote, originally posted by _muppet_ »
      this is a cheap alternative to buying a mesh grille but it is a lot of work

      what you need:
      hacksaw blade
      body filler
      sandpaper (a few different grits from coarse to fine)
      sandable primer
      paint that matches your car
      clear top coat
      some type of mesh (aluminum gutter mesh works well)

      first take off your grille this is done by taking the 4 screws out of the top of the grille and popping the clips out




      you need to take the grille apart there is a piece on the back of the grille with a bunch of clips on it take it off and pop the emblem out with a screwdriver


      next you need to cut the two bars in the center out this is what the hacksaw blade is for sand the sides and center smooth


      now you are ready for body filler an easy way to put the body filler on is to put it on two pieces of paper and put one on the front of the holes and one on the back


      allow the body filler to dry peel the paper off and sand it smooth your grille should now look like this notice I have cut the the pieces that sat in the bars on the back of the grille


      you are now ready to spray the primer I did four coats

      once the primer has dried you need to sand it smooth you should sand between coats

      you are now ready to paint do a few coats of your color and a few coats of clear

      once the paint has dried you can put your emblem back and cut the mesh mark the mesh with a sharpie and cut it about 1/2'' excess all around

      now set the mesh over the clips and push the clips through if your mesh is thin you wont have a problem re-assembling the grille then re-install

      here is the finished product before and after

      before:

      After:

      have fun


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      08-12-2007 03:47 PM #151
      Quote, originally posted by jeece »
      It may not be MkIII specific, but if it can help... When installing an aftermarket radio in your MkIII, don't forget to get an antenna adapter (costs < $10) at the same time you buy the wire harness (unless you don't plan to use AM/FM ). The factory VW antenna cable ends in a 90 degree plug, but you'll probably need a straight long plug for the radio.

      This adapter is often known as part # VW-10.

      Sure hope it can save you trips to the store/shipping costs.


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      08-12-2007 03:50 PM #152
      Quote, originally posted by jtdunc »
      Installing the Dash Door Lock Switch - You Can Do It!

      Finally pulled it off! Only took about an hour to install a dash-mounted lock/unlock switch in my 95 Jetta. Don't think VW installed these switches until 96.

      I got my dash door switch for $20 shipped from a local salvage yard. They are easily available.

      ---------------------------------

      Installing the Dash Door Lock Switch Directions

      1. Find the Black/Red wire in the interior portion of the door harness.
      Under the dashboard, right behind the hood release lever, you can see the
      wiring to the driver's door connector. There are several single row,
      multi-pin connectors snapped onto the back of the big round connector
      that mates with the door's connector. Fortunately, the one that I wanted
      was right in front of my nose. I snipped the second wire from the bottom
      on that 5-pin connector (black/red 20 AWG) as close to the plug as possible.

      2. Cut the wire. Leave the part that goes into the door disconnected. Run a new wire from the center console to the newly cut wire. Connect the new wire to the cut wire.

      3. There are 5 wires on the door lock switch. Numbered according to the harness:
      a: Brown - Ground
      b: Red/White - +12V - Make sure you leave the tube resistor on there - wrapped in brown
      c: Grey/Green - Magic Lock Wire
      d: (empty)
      e: Brown - Ground
      f: Grey/Blue - Illumination

      4. Splice the grounds to the cigarette lighter ground. I combined the grounds from the switch, soldered them, then wire tapped to the cig lighter ground.

      5. Splice the +12V to the cigarette lighter +12V.

      6. Splice the Magic Lock Wire to the new wire you ran from the door harness to the center console.

      7. Splice Illumination from another illuminated switch (defroster). Use Wire Tap-ins for simplicity.

      4. Enjoy your lock switch.


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      08-12-2007 03:53 PM #153
      Quote, originally posted by eurorobsjetta »
      im a lil suprised that i didnt see the ghetto wiper... its a ghetto way to have 1 wiper conversion

      1.) take off both wipers
      2.)put ur right wiper on the left wiper motor
      3.) match up wiper so it wipes most of winshield
      4.) it look bad ace i have a pic of my car if someone tells me how to upload it


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      08-12-2007 03:56 PM #154
      Quote, originally posted by jtdunc »
      Tinting Your Foglights, Markers, Reflectors, turn Signals With Smoked Film

      At first, I went the commonly-taken route for tinting my lights and used a spray-on tint. NightShades is a great product. I spray tinted my plastic lights but not my glass foglights. Problem is that even with a couple layers of wetsanded clearcoat, it still had a rather dull flat finish.

      In the end, I wanted all of my front lighting to match – exactly. Also, the added protection of the film reduces the risk of cracked or smashed foglight lenses.

      I found a vendor on the Internet selling Laminix colored film. Comes with a 5-year warranty but they have cars running around with their clear film going on 10 years! It was originally designed to protect your headlights and foglights from damage. However, the manufacturer recently started offering colored films:

      http://www.rockblocker.com/main.htm

      According to Rockblocker.com:
      These films give more character to your car and provide excellent lense protection at the same time. The light film is made of 16.5 mil Heavy Duty softened PVC vinyl film that is impact resistant. These films are designed and produced to not affect optical clarity of your lights and you will not visually notice any difference in beam pattern with the films applied.

      Application Instructions
      The film is thick yet can stretch a bit. For small applications like foglights, try to take the light out of the bumper so you can easily install the film; (1) merely cut a template with some film hanging over; (2) give the film a little stretch in both directions; (3) carefully apply over the foglight making sure to leave no bubbles; (4) make sure you uniformly cover all of the corners and ends; (5) take out a heat gun and lightly heat up the film and the edges so the glue behind the film will start to set; and (6) make sure it’s all where you want it to be and smooth out the edges.

      BTW – you have a couple of minutes to pull up the film and re-apply, if needed. Just reseal with the heat gun. For larger lights, you can apply the film wet like normal tinting.
      I’d let the film and the glue set up for several days before washing my car. I’d also avoid power washing those lights for a while too.

      Now we don’t have to spend hours sanding our lights, prepping, spraying several coats, wetsanding, clearcoating – all to use the spray tint.

      In just one hour, I had cut three templates and installed my smoke film on a set of foglights, reflectors, and turn signals. So for about $20 for the 7” x 16” sheet of smoked film, I saved more than more than $200! That 7” x 16” sheet will cover all of your non-headlight front lights.

      I highly recommend smoked film over the smoked factory items for the savings and the light protection. As to care, wash and wax you film just like your car – just use a non-abrasive wax on the smoke film.

      Enjoy!


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      08-12-2007 04:02 PM #155
      Quote, originally posted by vr6power ! »
      A/C controls bulb replacement

      Tools needed :
      - Flathead screwdriver
      - Phillips screwdriver
      Parts:
      - bulb ref. 2723

      With the flat head screwdriver carefully remove the A/C controls panel

      Remove the 4 screws that hold the controls

      Remove the ashtray and remove the 2 screws shown

      Pull all the assembly from the dash

      With the flat head press the 2 tabs shown..

      And there's the bulb housing

      Remove the green filter cover, replace the bulb and reassemble.


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      08-12-2007 04:07 PM #156
      Quote, originally posted by ichiban5 »
      Now, this is only for those with manual mirrors...
      in helping a buddy put on his M3 mirrors, i realized his stocks were manual also and had the little hand know.
      What i didn't realize was that once you remove the mirro and try reassemble the mechanism back behind the door arm, you can't because it was held together by metal wires that controlled the mirror.

      So, first, to remove the mirrors, unscrew (of course)
      pull off the mirror control knob
      take off the door pull cover. behind it is the mechanism for the mirror control. there are 2 screws to take out.
      once unscrewed, gently pull it through the door pull hole.
      take a flathead screw driver and gently pry the wires upwards, as to not break the mechanism. once the wires are all free, you can just push them up through the control arm. it looks kinda like a puppet control
      anywho...now, just pull the mirror with the wires out. and store the mechanism (you may want to go back to stock

      now for the fun part. Well, if you try to just put the mechanism back behind the door pull, the knob will just hang there. you want it to at least "look" functional.
      So, i took two short, stock lug nut covers (one for each side), poked a hole in the top, pushed the control arm through and that took up enough slack then just put the knob back on...voila

      and yes, i know i'm a little long winded trying to explain this, so i'll try to get pics up of some of this so you get the idea

      Quote, originally posted by punkassjim »
      I'm not entirely sure I understand what you just described. Are you talking about actual BMW M3 mirrors? From what, an E36? Anyway, removing the stock mirror should not require you to de-pin the movement cables. If you take an extra 5 minutes to remove the door card, the whole knob assembly will fit through the hole in the mirror triangle.

      As for using a lug nut cover as an adjustment knob...
      I'd say if you're gonna de-pin the movement cables, you might as well try re-pinning the BMW cables to the VW adjustment knob/lever. Might even fit.

      Quote, originally posted by ichiban5 »

      yeah, i knew i would lose alot of people trying to describe it...
      but the cover isn't to replace the knob, it goes behind the door pull kinda like a washer to take up some space so the knob fits back w/o just hanging...
      And by M3, i mean, like the manual m3's sold by FK or whomever that are just manual, w/o any of the wiring to move it from the inside of the car...
      if that helps any...


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      08-12-2007 04:58 PM #157
      Quote, originally posted by SpeedRacer20 »
      Things you will need
      1. Phillips screw driver (looks like this on the tip + )
      2. A jack, or a stick or 1x1 board, anything that will be able to prop the clutch arm in place to give you slack on the cable (you'll see what I mean)
      3. A flashlight
      4. A friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times while you see where the clutch cable is in the engine compartment (if you don't know what the cable looks like)

      Note: This DIY looks extremely long and may look intimidating, but it's long because I tried to make sure I didn't leave anything out. I may have repeated myself once or twice, or said something obvious or redundant. Disregard it, and get this done! You will be proud of yourself, it really is worth the trouble.
      By the way, do yourself a favor and print this out in large text so you can refer to it while your doing the project.

      1. First of all, slide the drivers seat all the way back, and take out floormats. Flip the hood up and prop it.

      2. Get a friend to step on the clutch pedal a few times so you can see exactly where the clutch cable is, and the arm it connects to.

      3. This is where the jack, or board comes in. Once you find the clutch arm the clutch cable connects to, you will want to get underneath the front of the car and prop the jack/board/stick so the clutch arm stays lifted up. When you are propping (especially with a jack) take care not to put pressure on the transmission, just the clutch arm.

      4. Once the clutch arm is propped up, you can see connected to the arm, a rectangular piece of black rubber, and a similiar shaped piece of metal with a slit in it. The slit is where the clutch cable end slides on to. SInce you have enough slack from the arm being propped up, you can easily slide the metal piece out and pull the rubber piece out. You will need these again, don't lose them.

      5. Once that is taken off, you will want to get underneath the drivers side dash, just under the steering wheel. There will be 3 separate things you need to take out underneath there before you can access the top of the clutch cable. You will also want to pull down the fuse box as well. It's all much easier than it sounds. The larger piece (don't know what the appropriate name is for it) that your knees hit when your driving will need to be taken out first. There are 4-5 screws holding this in place, located directly underneath it. Take the screws out and then slide the entire piece directly down towards the floor.

      6. Now that it's out of the way, you will want to take out a flimsy piece of plastic located just underneath the fuse box. There are only a couple screws holding this in, it comes out very easy.

      7. Since that is out of the way, you'll be able to better see the fuse box. On the sides of the fuse box, you will see a grey tab on each side that you flip up. Once you have flipped these up, the fuse box is removed by lifting straight up on it (towards the ceiling) and then you can lay it on the floor or let it dangle.

      8. That wasn't so hard was it? This next step is the biggest hassle of the project, this is where little hands and a flashlight win the day. Your going to want to shine your flashlight up to the top of the clutch pedal. There you will see a plastic housing on the left side of the pedal, and it goes up and around the pedal. Shine the flashlight on the left side of the plastic housing. You will see 2 slots where the plastic housing connects to a metal housing. The plastic housing comes out, the metal stays. This plastic piece is removed by sliding the piece straight up.(towards the celing) You don't need to pry, prod or jab at it with your screwdriver, it comes right out. Once it is slid out of those two tabs, you'll want to move the plastic housing until you see a ziptie looking thing on the side of it, this roundish looking guide should be holding on to 2 wire clusters. You don't need to cut this, just push on it with your screwdriver to release the 2 wire clusters. After that, you will want to move the plastic housing to the left to remove it. It will most likely catch on the metal housings lip. It'll take a few minutes to negotiate it out of there, just don't break it, it will come out.

      THERE! It finally came out. I'm sure at this point you've created some new curse words, and there should be a group of people standing around you and your car gaping in disbelief. Pain in the arse wasn't it?

      9. This is where your friend will come in handy again. Since you've disconnected the clutch cable from the clutch arm, you can get him/her to push the tip of the cable towards you (towards the cable) to slack the cable as much as possible in your favor. Don't let them wander off, it helps a bunch. Get your head underneath the clutch pedal and push it to the floor. Take your LEFT hand and feel where the cable meets the top of the pedal. Slide your hand underneath it, and with that slack pull the cable towards you and up, so that the slack is horizontal, and keep wiggling it up and towards you. It takes a few but you'll eventually get it. Again I say, use your left hand to do all the work, it's the easiest.

      10. Now you've disconnected the cable from the arm, and you can go back in to the engine compartment and pull the rubber grommet on the clutch cable out of the firewall (the metal that separates the engine bay and the inside of the car). Wiggle it back and forth while pulling to get it out. Once it's out throw that sucka as far as possible.

      11. Now in goes the new cable. It's all down hill from here, since you know the steps in taking it out, it's exactly the same going in. It's easier to connect the cable to the clutch pedal THEN connect it to the clutch arm, trust me. Go to the engine compartment, and push the littel rubber grommet on the clutch cable back in the firewall, twist and push twist and push till it goes in. Make sure it actually snaps in there, it has a lip so it will actually snap in. Pull it a few times to make sure you got it in there properly.

      12. Now go back in to the car underneath the dash and guide the cable back in. It goes in the exactly the same way it came out. You have to get slack again from your friend pushing on the other end of the cable. Pull the slack towards you, and with your left hand, pull the line so it loops down towards the groove in the top of the pedal. There are two slots on the pedal, which confused me at first. You want to put the cable in the upper one.(or the one closer to the engine bay if that helps you.) Picture this: Hold your left straight out with your palm to the sky. Now imagine a cable going through your hand making a fist, with your palm still facing the sky. Now turn your fist clockwise so the cable that was coming from the left to right, is now coming from the left, and being routed downwards. That's the best I can explain what you'll want to do with the cable underneath so it goes in to that groove smoothly.

      13. (before you start this step, make sure your new cables rubber grommet connected to the cable is tightly pushed in to the firewall so you have plenty of slack) Now that you've snapped the hammer looking end of the cable in to the clutch pedal, you'll want to go back to the engine compartment, and connect the other end to the clutch arm. Assuming you still have a jack or stick holding the clutch arm upwards (so you have more slack to work with) grab the rectangular metal and rubber piece you took out before. The rubber piece goes in first underneath the arm and snaps in to a hole on the clutch arm. Now guide the clutch cable end through the clutch arm and the rubber piece. Now grab the metal piece, and put it underneath the rubber, and with your other hand pull the slack of the cable downwards, so you can slide the cable end through the groove on the metal piece. Once that is done, wiggle it around so you know it's set properly, it should all line up.

      Note: At this point you can now remove the jack, stick, bar or whatever you used to prop up the clutch arm.

      14. Now that you have it installed, push the clutch back and forth a few times to make sure it feels ok. You can adjust later, you just need to make sure the cable is installed fine. Now all you have to do is reassemble the mess you made underneath the steering wheel. It all goes back in the same way it came out. First put the plastic housing back in the way it came out. Once it's about in the right spot, snap it back in to the housing it disconnected from. There is a slot that you saw earlier with the flashlight, and another directly above the pedal, just make sure they push in and lock together, then lock in the side one that connects to the metal housing. Once this is done, push the pedal back and forth and make sure it's not rubbing on the side, or upper part of the housing. If it is rubbing, push around the plastic housing until you get it to stop rubbing, and make sure it's locked in to place on the side, and at the top. Now route the 2 cables you took out earlier, back through the plastic housing so they are not dangling by your feet.

      15. Not rubbing? Good! Now you can put the fuse box back. Remember it drops in to 2 metal slots, and then you snap the 2 grey tabs over the metal nubs it sits on. Put back the flimsy plastic piece back over the fuse box, 2 screws go in here. Then mount the large piece that your knees hit when you drive. (wish I knew the proper name for that thing) It slides in and snaps in place on the top, line it up, then put the 4-5 screws back in.

      16. Now that it's all back together, push the pedal back and forth to see if it's where you like it. It should need some adjusting but this is the easiest part. If it's too loose, or too tight (disengages too high or too low) go to where the cable connects to the clutch arm, losen the little gold nut you see there, and then spin the round rubber piece directly below it. Play with it until it is where you like it. I adjusted mine to where there's about 2 inches of play when you push on the clutch until it actually starts to engage.
      NOTE: Do NOT go too tight on the cable, or the clutch will not be able to disengage all the way, and you'll smoke your clutch out.

      I think that's about it, I'll review this a few times and edit the thread if I noticed I left something out.
      Hope you guys enjoy.


    18. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-12-2007 05:03 PM #158
      Quote, originally posted by Neuspeed_VR6 »
      Here's a site on the install

      http://www.ohiovw.com/tools/regulator/default.asp



      Home Forums Media Pictorials Events Tools Friends Advertise

      Electric Rear Window Regulator Replacement

      Required Tools
      10mm Socket
      Flat head Screw Driver
      Large Philips Head Screw Driver
      T10 and T25 Torx Bits
      Electrical Tape
      Window Regulator

      Drivers Side Rear - 1h4839461a
      Passenger Side Rear - 1h4839462a

      Before we get started please make sure you have all of the tools listed above, and roughly 1/2 to 1 hour to complete this process.

      Step 1

      Unpack your new regulator


      Step 2

      Use the flat head screwdriver to pry off the switch, be careful not to break the clips off the back side, or marr the plastic.


      Unclip the switch from the door.

      Step 3

      Pry off the speaker, make sure you do not break the clips off the back of this piece either, or else it won't be held in strong enough when you put it all back together.

      Step 4

      I did not snag a pic of this step, but behind the handle there are two large screws, use the large philips screwdriver to remove these two screws.

      Step 5

      This is what holds the panel on, pins and pin holes, knowing this gently pry between the door panel and the door. I say gently because these "pins and holes" are quite fragile and have a tendancy to break, or pull the pin from the door.

      If you pull a pin from the door, don't worry it will go back in, but if you break a pin hole, its all over for that pin hole, so be careful (You shouldn't have any problems)

      Here is the back side of the door panel.

      This is what a pulled panel pin looks like

      Step 6

      Looking at the inside of the door, you will see a large sheet of dynomat (Dynamat) its for sound deadening, so you don't get rattles and whatnot from the music, or just general rattles, this needs to be gently pulled away.
      Its no big deal if you rip this material (You can see in the picture mine is ripped) noone will ever see it.

      Step7

      Once you have pulled away the sheet of dynomat you'll see the busted regulator (That damn fool!) Use the 10mm socket to unbolt the regulator from the glass and jiggle the glass. It may take a little force, but you need to seporate the glass from the regulator.

      Step 8

      Now, use the electrical tape to hold the glass up near the top. (You don't want it down in your way, while you are removing the regulator.)

      Step 9

      Use the 10mm socket again to unbolt the regulator (There are 3 bolts total holding it on)

      Step 10

      Jimmy the regulator to a position to where you can get at the electrical plug, unplug this.

      Step 11

      Tilt and giggle and complain a little, but pull out the regulator from the door.

      Step 12

      Now for the heart transplant!
      Use the larger torx bit to unscrew the large torx screws, and the smaller torx bit to unscrew the smaller screws.
      NOTE! you do not need to remove all of the small torx screws, just the ones holding the motor to the regulator (Compare regulators and only remove the screws that you will need on the new regulator)

      Step 13

      Now that we have our motor off of the one regulator, we need to re-install it on our new regulator, simple just screw it back on!

      Step 14

      Re-install regulator back into the door, re-attach the electrical plug and bolt it down with the 3 bolts (Make sure you remove the bots before you try to jimmy the regulator back into the door or you will shout "DAMNIT" as you jimmy the new regulator back out of the door to remove them.)

      Step 15

      Now that your regulator is back in the door, un-tape the glass from the door and gently slide it back into the regulator "fingers." Use the 10mm socket to tighten up the regulator to the glass (Not too tight as to break the glass, but tight enough to hold the glass)

      Plug in the switch and roll up and down the window to make sure you have the glas in streight, so the motor doesn't have to labor to roll up or roll down the window.

      Step 16

      Re-install the dynomat (Use the old goo, it is pretty damn sticky stuff.)
      Plug in the speaker!
      Then the lign up the door panel (I found that if you put the door panel on and pound with a closed fist where the pins are, they stick pretty well.
      Screw the two screws back on that go behind the handle.
      Plug in the tweeter speaker, and clip that bad boy back on
      Plug in the switch and clip that back on.

      Pretty painless.

      All information believed to be accurate but is not guaranteed.
      Volkswagen is a registered trademark of Volkswagen AG.
      OhioVW is not affiliated with or endorsed by Volkswagen AG or Volkswagen of America, Inc.


    19. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-12-2007 05:06 PM #159
      Quote, originally posted by Teets »
      MANUAL WINDOW REGULATOR REMOVAL/INSTALLATION

      take off your door panel and remove weather seal... roll down window until the white clamps are visible... loosen them with a 13mm socket i believe so that the window lifts up... then pull the window up through the door at an angle... then above and below where you loosened, you'll see two bolts on each side of the regulator that hold it to the door... take those off, and take off the bolt that holds the crank to the door... take out regulator... do the reverse to reinstall


    20. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 12:03 PM #160
      Quote, originally posted by Crew »
      Well, here goes...

      I've wanted a Euro switch for a while, but at $80 or more, condition dependent, I don't think that running lights are worth it!

      I was trolling the junkyard today, and got an idea. Found a B4 Passat, and the switch looked a hell of a whole lot like a Euro switch, in terms of functionality, but as you'll see in the first picture, it wouldn't quite fit.

      Simply put, I took the internals from the Passat switch and put them in my Jetta's original switch.

      Here goes:

      1. Passat switch, not exactly gonna fit in the Jetta spot.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

      2. Jetta switch.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

      3. After much... removal of superfluous pieces of the Passat switch, learning how it worked... This made removal of the components a LOT easier, and you'll see why when we take apart the N/A switch carefully later. This is what you see in the back of the Passat switch.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg

      4. Here's a look at the components of the Passat switch. Note, the dimmer is attached, and the "switch/knob" is still a part of the housing.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...4.jpg

      5. Another view of the Passat switch, where you can see how much has been broken off.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...5.jpg

      6. These guys right here are the key to three stops in your switch. Take very good care of them.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

      7. I broke off the tabs on either side of the switch to allow for easier access, and once again, this will be more difficult with your N/A switch, but I'll explain later.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

      8. To remove these guys, I'll call them the "guides", you'll want to get the switch into the "fogs" position, seen below. With the switch fully extended, pull up on either one of the guides and depress the knob itself (taking it out of "fogs" position).
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...7.jpg
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

      9. I picked the guide on closest to the outside of the switch. Tilt this sideways to ease it out of the way of the inner knob.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg

      10. When you turn and remove this piece, you'll see a small rounded plastic piece sticking out.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

      11. This is attached to a spring, and goes straight through to another plastic piece.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...2.jpg

      12. Set these aside for later. You've disassembled the Passat switch and it's time to move on to the Jetta/Golf one.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg

      13. Instead of breaking it apart shard by shard, like I did with the Passat switch, you'll want to be much, much more careful with the Jetta housing, since it's going to be reused. I recommend wedging between the components and the housing (you'll see where there's a distinct line between them), and there will be 6 total knobs holding the components to the housing (3 on each side). Get the housing spread enough to wedge something in there like a folded post-it note or an index card, so that it will slide out easier. Pull up on whatever you like, I chose the support for the wiring harness.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...5.jpg

      14. Here you'll see the inside of your N/A switch. Note, the green-colored guides (Awesome because they help differentiate between old and new).
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...6.jpg

      15. We'll do the same as the step from above, and set the knob to "fogs", and lift up the guide.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...7.jpg

      16. Now, since you don't want to break the clip off like before (which I did anyway...) You'll want to be extra careful. Unless you intend to reuse the guides from the N/A, I recommend gripping and carefully ripping. Bend it back and forth until the plastic on the "guide" fails, but be careful not to break anything else! You'll see the results of this next, but here's what it looks like when you get the guide out. Familiar? Remove the spring and plastic piece to slide the other one out easily.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...8.jpg

      17. Busted guides.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...9.jpg

      18. Note the difference between the "Euro" guide, and the N/A guide. There are two notches for the N/A, and three in the "Euro" one, savvy? (The top one is upside down, but you get the picture.) The little triangle/"diagonal" notch is for the fogs option.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...0.jpg

      19. After removing the second N/A guide, check the direction of the guide (see what the switch does, and judge from there) HINT: You'll want the fogs "notch" towards the front of the switch, since you're pulling it towards you. Replace the last N/A one with the first of your "Euro" ones. Being VERY careful, compress the spring and fit the "Euro" guide into it's place.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...1.jpg

      20. As you can see, your N/A switch now has an extra stop, as well as the fog pull-out.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg

      21. The carnage/aftermath.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...3.jpg

      22, 23, 24, etc. Profit.
      http://i54.photobucket.com/alb...T.jpg

      I'd add video, but it's just me turning each position, and it's a huge file, so I skipped.

      Any questions, feel free to PM. Thanks for reading!




      Modified by nater at 10:37 AM 3-1-2008

    21. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 12:28 PM #161
      Quote, originally posted by nater »
      I know it's been posted up before (my pics) but here are some 'new' pics I just took tonight.
      If you notice, some pics look different (color-wise) but it's just me playing with the settings on my camera....
      Here you go:

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...6.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...7.jpg


      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...8.jpg


      Notice the cutoff right at the top of the hill:
      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...9.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...2.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...3.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...4.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...6.jpg

      http://www.geocities.com/nfe10...7.jpg

      Not perfect bezels (as you can see from above) but I had no access to a lathe and I did it in about a weekend or so. I've been running these for about a year now with no 'real' problems.

      Here's the specs for some of you newer guys:

      Mk3 GTi
      MK4-look lamps retrofitted with OEM Golf/Bora4 HID projectors
      Philips/Hella Ballasts with 4300K Philips bulbs and relays.
      Just a simple amber bulb in the middle in the "city light" section of the mk4-look.
      Aluminum paint to keep glare down due to the reflective qualities of the MK4-looks.
      Later,




      Modified by nater at 11:14 AM 3-1-2008

    22. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:15 PM #162
      Quote, originally posted by golfgen3 »
      ABD Short shifter DIY

      Tools needed:
      1) 13mm metric for the only nut in this DIY project
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/8647/DSCF111.jpg
      2. Needle nose pliers (to remove and install the bushing out of ABD shifter plate)
      3. Both hands for this one!

      Removal of 2.0 shifter weight and plate (Illustrations show ABD shifter parts being removed and stock units being installed, but procedures are the same in reverse)
      Note:
      Remember to always set your parking brake, and set the gears in neutral and becareful of electrical connections, you're gona really have to get in your engine bay for this one

      1. Remove the two cotter pins holding the shift weight in its corresponding bushings
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/7061/DSCF106.jpg


      2. Remove the shift weight in the order shown
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/9090/DSCF107.jpg

      3. Now remove the one 13mm nut and remove the shift plate off the thread
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/4449/DSCF108.jpg

      5. You will have to hold the shift plate while unbolting the nut (direction for removal as shown)
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/5553/DSCF110.jpg

      5. The opening where the shift plate is held by the nut is rectangular, when the shift plate is removed the thread should be up as far as possible revealing the rectangular metal piece which will hold the shift plate in the correct position.
      Simply install the shift plate in the reverse direction as shown in the photos, dont over torque the nut


      6. Take your stock shift weight
      http://img15.exs.cx/img15/4769/DSCF112.jpg
      And match it up to fit in its proper bushings
      http://img7.exs.cx/img7/5730/DSCF77.jpg

      7. Replace the two cotter pins and make sure to push in far enough that they lock in place, check they aren't lose and you're done!
      http://img7.exs.cx/img7/968/DSCF78.jpg

      I used some good old lithium grease to lubricate the bushings.
      Give her a drive around the block just to test it out.




      Modified by nater at 8:20 AM 3-2-2008

    23. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:19 PM #163
      Quote, originally posted by pineapplegti »
      Helpful way of removing tint
      Take a black trash bag and tape it to interior molding in the car in-front of the window, then take a spray bottle of water and wet the window, then press the black plastic trash bag against the window ( do this in a hot car) leave the car out side in the sun for an hour or so and most of your tint will fall off like butta

      Quote, originally posted by WhenDubsCry »

      i was able to pull my tint off without doing this.

      i just scraped the edge and pulled it off every window slowly in one piece.

      a few spots i needed to scrape with a razor blade, and then you just clean up your windows.


      your method probably works faster....but does the adhesive stick to the windows much?


    24. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:29 PM #164
      My Windown Tint Removal DIY from the gti-vr6 list a few years back:

      Quote, originally posted by nater from GTi-VR6 list »
      Not as hard as I thought it would be but wanted to do a quick write up b/c when I searched I found
      a million ppl asking the same questions.
      Background:
      I had my tint installed by a 'professional' shop. I dont' knwo if this means anything about the
      types of glues used but thought I'd throw that in here.
      Why am I removing it? Moved into a new house and the local cops stopped me and gave me a warning
      and asked me to remove.
      Since I live there now and drive through the borough I don't think I've got much of a choice.
      Plus, I'm 30 now and not into as much of the tint like I used to be.


      What I used:

      1) Rubbing Alcohol (I ended up using a lot so get one of those quart sizes)
      2) Straight edged razor (i used a scraper)
      3) Brillo pads (best if they are "plain"...mine weren't but I just rinsed the soap off them)
      4) Windex or similar cleaner
      5) An old rag that you don't mind ruining with glue
      6) Wallpaper remover (steemer) - I only used this for about 5 seconds so it's not needed but if
      you have one it helps get you 'started'


      What I did:

      Fronts:
      Started by rolling down the window just a tad to expose the edge of the tint at the top.
      Use your razor to dig under the tint as flat as possible.
      Once you get enough (about one cm) of the tint peeled up it should come off very easily in one
      piece (mine did). If it breaks just start over with the razor and go at it again.
      Roll window back up after you get the tint started and out of the top section so that you can get
      it out of the bottom. THIS IS EASY.

      Do this for all the windows. The back ones (on the golf/gti) obviously don't roll down so you
      gotta get a bit creative I suppose. I just used the razor to cut down the middle of the tint and
      then dug at it in one direction to start the peel. QUITE EASY.

      Back window: Contrary to the belief (that I read in my search here) the rear window IS NOT HARD AT
      ALL. Many ppl were saying the defroster is a pain in the ass. Not on mine. It peeled right off.

      The most work involved is in removing ALL THE GLUE that remains on the window.

      Here's where the alcohol, brillo pads, and towel come into play.

      Soak your small rag with alcohol so it's wet and rub a lot of it onto the window/glue to "loosen"
      it up. You won't really see it loosen up too much but doesn't hurt to get it started.

      I started off by using no brillo pads here and it took me forever with a cotton rag to rub it off.
      That is, until I found my brillo pads.

      Put a towel over yourself and/or over your interior where you don't want alcohol to spill. B/c it
      will.

      Pour alcohol onto your brillo pad (this is where it gets messy as your brillo pad is very very
      porous and it'll just drip through)...

      Now go to town on the window in any motion you feel fit. The key is to soak the brillo pad (and
      keep it soaked) as you wipe the glue off.

      It will not come off w/o the alcohol.

      As you scrub away at the glue it becomes very small pieces and can "reattached" itself to the
      glass. It doesn't bond much at all though...this is where your pre-soaked rag comes into play. Use
      this rag to simply wipe away the "pieces" of glue that have piled up and stuck to the window.

      Continue on your window until all the glue is gone.

      Use glass cleaner to clean the window inside and out and you're done.


      From start to finish on my GTi MK3 (all windows tinted with exception of windshield) it took about
      And car looks perfect as it did before I had the tint installed.

      If this thread helps you out, do others a favor and post up your thoughts to bump it back to
      "active" status b/c others will benefit!

      Thanks for reading!

      Later,

      If I could add anything else it would be maybe to try a heat gun to melt the glue a bit...I didn't do that but maybe it would help?



    25. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:38 PM #165
      Quote, originally posted by FORUM720 »
      TINTING YOUR TAILLIGHTS. EASY AND CHEAP

      hey, this will cost you a total of $4.46. this is super easy and looks fricken awesome.

      You can either take your lights out to tint them or just tape them off. Taking them out:

      1. Go in ur trunk and pull back the carpet covering the back of your lights.
      2. There should be 3 gold nuts holding on each outter taillight. take these off, disconnect the electrical clips, and pull the light out. CAREFUL NOT TO DROP.
      3. Once outter ones are off, take off a couple of the plastic screws on the actual trunk (holding the carpet up) you will see more screws for the inner ones. these may be attached to the liscense plate like mine and take some work to get off. e-mail me if you need more help.
      4. Lay some paper down in ur garage and all 4 lights on top.

      GO TO HOBBIE TOWN USA AND BUY SOME MODEL WINDOW TINT. IT COMES IN A LITTLE SPRAY CAN AND WILL BE PLENTY FOR ALL 4 TAILLIGHTS. it'll cost about 5 bucks.

      5. Spray evenly, 1 coat at a time, to each light. allow coat to dray and do as many as you want.
      6. Re-attach.

      http://img33.exs.cx/img33/545/DSC487.jpg

      http://img47.exs.cx/img47/2120/DSC00486.jpg




      Modified by nater at 8:22 AM 3-2-2008

    26. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:42 PM #166
      Quote, originally posted by JiMbo VR6 »
      For those who have a master key with a light bulb and a little VW button here information for replacing the bulb with an LED and/or replacing with OEM parts: http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1400431


      And here is a write up of how to wire your FK Angel Eyes, I realize there is already a post with pictures but when trying to install these lights it is better to have too much information.

      I installed FK angel eyes in January. Since then, a few others have installed the same lights in their cars, and I have helped them as best I could. FK provides no instructions to go along with their product, the best they do is give two fairly confusing diagrams. The following is copied from private messages I sent to TPR members to help them wire up their headlights.


      Ok what I did..

      Take the two harnesses with the "split" grey wire, and plug them into the healights (making sure they are snug). Then on the end of these harnesses plug in the other two with the four side by side(4x1) male clips. (Note: The passenger side can do witout the first, "split grey wire, harness and plug the second harness directly into the headlight.)

      The remaining provided harness with the relay (is only for the Halos), there is a diagram that came with the headlights from FK...
      Coming from the fuse are a red wire and black wire, these attach to the battery. Then there are two more ends, one with two wires and the other with one wire. I connected the single wire to the split on the passengers side leading to the lamp (it can be spliced onto the 4x1 plug as described later). And the two wires (not sure what the colors are, it is labeled on the diagram) one goes to the driver's side split leading to the lamp, and the other goes to the same split but leading away from the light.

      I added relays to my headlight setup, but will leave that part out since not everyone will be using them.

      The 4x1 male clips of the second harness lead to four wires. White is High, Yellow is Low, Brown is Ground, and Grey is Halos. On both the driver's side and passenger side, connect the old power wires to their respective male clips (at radio shack you can find female ends the can fit on the sock power wire and slide right on the male 4x1 harness; You can also splice the wires directly together). And connect the Brown to a ground, I connected it to the Neg. side of the battery.

      For the Halos, whatever you want to use them for, connect them to that power source. For instance I wanted mine on with the parking lights which also keeps them on with lows and highs. I spliced into the side marker wire on the drivers side(the front parking light is also the turn signal, which would cause all four halos to blink). Taking the wire I spliced into the side marker I connected it to the Grey wire's male clip on the 4x1 harness, on the driver's side. This grey wire then is split and follows a wire to the relay and splits to both headlights.

      At this point your lights should be working.

      Now, for what a relay does. From the battery a wire goes to the headlight switch in the cabin and through the fuses and eventually to your lights. All this long thin wire creates resistance and lessens the voltage to the bulb. A relay shortens that distance and allows more voltage to reach the bulb.

      The way you use a relay is to take the stock wire going to the light and plug it into the relay. When there is no power going to the relay from the switch (the switch is turned off), then the relay is off. When you turn on your headlight switch the power going to the relay "trips" a switch inside it to the "on" position. A wire runs directly from the battery to the relay, and then another wire from the relay to the headlight (there is also a ground I think). What the internal switch does is connect and disconnect the wires from the battery and headlight.

      For those without Angel Eyes, this paragraph, from above, should cover you:


      quote:
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
      The 4x1 male clips of the second harness lead to four wires. White is High, Yellow is Low, Brown is Ground, and Grey is Halos. On both the driver's side and passenger side, connect the old power wires to their respective male clips (at radio shack you can find female ends the can fit on the sock power wire and slide right on the male 4x1 harness; You can also splice the wires directly together). And connect the Brown to a ground, I connected it to the Neg. side of the battery.
      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    27. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:46 PM #167
      Quote, originally posted by ozglxvr6 »
      How to reverse your LCD's.

      This will probably work for any VW with LCD displays.
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...2.jpg

      Take apart your cluster and access your LCD's.
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...9.jpg

      Make sure you remember how they go together, exactly. The LCD's in my cluster had little colored dots on the edge that faces to the right (passenger side)

      Carefully remove the Polorizing filter from the front of the LCD glass. Start to peel it up with a razorblade, then carefully lift it off with your fingers. As you can see I damaged this filter by trying to slice it off with the razor only. Do not do that.
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...4.jpg

      If you do happen to damage one like I did, you can look around your house for some old things you do not use that have LCD's. I used the filter out of an old cd changer control.
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...9.jpg

      Clean the filters and LCD's using 99% Isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Wet the adhesive, then rub in one direction with your finger until it peels off.
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...4.jpg

      After it is clean, reinstall the filter on the LCD so that it appears black. ( Just flip it over) You may want to adhere the filter on with something, I just set it in place and carefully re-assembled the cluster.

      You LCD's should be dark if done correctly:
      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...2.jpg

      Install your new backlit gauges , Colored filters, and put them back in your car.

      http://www.vwfixx.com/forums/u...7.jpg




      Modified by nater at 8:24 AM 3-2-2008

    28. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-13-2007 03:54 PM #168
      Quote, originally posted by Amin Ahmadi »
      Shall my first post be a contribution:

      You have a Jetta/Golf with powerlock,
      one of the doors doesn't unlock or lock and you hear a hissing sound everytime you lock or unlock for about 30 seconds:

      Introduction: Your car uses a very interesting system of using vacuum/pressure to lock the doors. in 1994Jetta there is a pump in the trunk on the driver side, wrapped in foam. and there is hoses to every actuator.


      In my case the passenger side didn't lock but it did unlock.
      First guess was to rip apart the door:
      UNdo the hex bolts around, pry off the handle, and undo the 2 big philips underneath and take the cover off. you could see the pipe going through the door acardeon.


      The approach I would recomment is to try to isolate different sections and see if that helps.

      In the car that I fixed the problem of passenger door was rooted in the truck, only that that lock was a bit stiffer and there wasn't enough air.

      after initial failure with door unit I started blocking each section and try to isolate it. The line to the trunk and the gas lid is the same and is T'ed behind the right side carpet. once there it was easy to guess.


    29. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:24 PM #169
      Quote, originally posted by Darrell »
      http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/591071/6


      install amp wire on mk3 golf

      tools:
      pair of hands
      screw driver
      10mm scoket
      allen key
      knife

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg
      locat this hole on the firewall, pull the rubber out

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg
      run the pos wire thru the fuse pannel like so. run the wire up to the hole and out to the engine bay. make sure the wire is clear from the clutch padel.

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      be sure to have enough wire to the battary

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      remove the rocker , hood release, and that small pannel under the dash

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      run your Power along the rocker pannel

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      it's not neccassay to remove the back pannel but i did it anyway to have a clean install.to remove this pannel, u need to remove the truck piece that laps over the pannel with a 10mm socket. also remove the seat pin with an allen key. after u remove all the clips and screws. stack the seat like that and slide the pannel out.

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg
      if u do not want to remove the back pannel. try run your wires under it. the power wire is a piece of cake but the bigger RCA and the solf on/off wire could give u problems

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      wire out to the trunk along with factroy wires
      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg
      run the RCA wire from the back of the car to the front. along with the factory wires
      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      i have thin gage wire so i was able to clip it to the factory wire guides

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg
      close up on where the rocker means the B-piler. power , RCA and on/off wire

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      run the RCA as showen
      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      remove the pannel underneath the steering colum. u'll see the antanna wire. run your RCA along side it and zip tigh'em inplace

      http://images.cardomain.com/me...l.jpg

      fish the wires out from the deck opening and done

      Quote, originally posted by dubdriver69 »
      This is to clean up and add to Darrell's post. Not bashing, but you don't want people PM'ing you asking why things were on fire, or why noise is in my system. You right up and pictures are great, just need to add.

      1. When running the wire through the fire wall on your car it is better to dril a new hole, and use a GROMET. You don't want to run a thick wire through an existing gromit, you will leave area for water to come through and kill your fuse box, and even more! Just recently a 96 or 95 passat came in with a wire ran through a factory gromit, hole was a little big, and riped. We had alot of rain! killed fuse box, and computer. Amp kit's these days come with a gromit, well the 10-4 awg do. The larger awg you have to buy a gromit you can dril in to the firewall. (A unibit is the best tool to use to get through the fire wall for alarms, remote starts, or Audio install.

      2. You allways want to run you RCA wire's on the opposite side from where the power wire is. EX. battery is on drivers side, you should run power wire down drivers side, and run the RCA, or signal wires down the passenger side. Running them together can induce electromagnitc noise in to your system. Other wise know as wine, ground loop, ground noise, or sissy cry. When doing a SUB amp you can run them together, since the X-over will cut most of it out (noise is mostly present at higher Frequencys) But it still can be heard through the sub. Thus why it is good pratice to run the RCA wires on the other side of the car.

      3. It is much much mcuh! easyer to run the RCA's from the front to the rear of the car, and is common pratice of 90% of audio shops! It's is alot easyer to hide 4 extra feet or signal wire in the trunk, or under the seat, since there can be ton's of moduals behind the dash for aftermaket unit's (monitors, XM, serrius sat radio and more) also if you have a newer vw, say 93 and up, you know what i mean about putting wires behind the radio. It can be a pain in the butt.

      Also don't forget alot of rules for different contest are very strict! Like the fuse has to be with in 18 inches of the battery, your ground wire no longer then 3ft, and the list goes on. The rule book for Iasca, or usac (may have gotten the letters messed up, but you get it right?) is HUGE! and must be followed! If you want a stupid clean install look in to that, but that is alot of work, and most of us wont do that.(for the people who do, I have rules, and i get car's ready)

      There are alot of good tips between both of our post! Please take the time to look them both over! you can gain alot from them, And if anybody needs help with some thing, i bet you can PM DARRELL, or MY self!

      But your car is your car! And you can install how ever you would like. It is an art that some have. and some don't. (sorry for spelling errors)




      Modified by nater at 8:25 AM 3-2-2008

    30. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:27 PM #170
      Quote, originally posted by ventovolkswagen »
      Needed:
      1 set of inpro clear tail lights
      1 set of stock tail lights
      A strong silicon based adhesive
      Rotory tool

      Use a cut-away disc and cut off the top portion of the stock tail lights off. Leave some room however (about half an inch) because it is easy to slip and make a mistake. Then use a heafty grit sander to cut down on the rest of the half inch of material. Note that the material will heat up to a good extent and become flexible enough so that you can simply peal it off.

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      Do the opposite this time for the clear set, but now leave the black stripe.

      When both sets are finished, match them up and see if there is any gap. If so, sand down the appropriate areas.

      Before piecing the lenses together, apply a good amount of the adhesive, and then attach the backing so that everything stays in place.

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      Before:

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      After:

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi

      http://images.snapfish.com/33%...t1lsi




      Modified by nater at 8:26 AM 3-2-2008

    31. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:31 PM #171
      Quote, originally posted by 2.slow_GTi »
      Lets see. Your gonna need some 320 and 600 grit sand paper. Some Sandable primer. The color of your choice. Some clear sealant.

      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...83333

      Start by cleaning the wheel. The better you prep the better the results.
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...28935

      sand down the arean you want to paint with the 320 grit sand paper. you may need to start with something rougher if your wheels are in bad shape.
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...03125

      mask off the area you don't want to paint (obviously)
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...91435

      Prime the metal using thin even coats. Remember with spray cans thin even coats work better than thick heavy coats. Sand the primer after your done so the finish is as smoth as possible.
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...23032

      Paint the wheels, again using thin even coats.
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...32292

      Wait 3-5 days for full drying as per the instructions on the can of paint.
      The paint will darken as it drys. When it's dry get the clear sealant and again use even thin coats for best results.
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...26736

      final results
      http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...36111

      hope it useful. later.




      Modified by nater at 8:28 AM 3-2-2008

    32. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:40 PM #172
      Quote, originally posted by chipmunkpie »
      if you're trying to get your grilles out of the dashboard air vents cut a piece of coat hanger with a "U" shape on one end. hook it around one of the horizontal slats all the way to one side and pull until it pops free. do the same on the other side. it might help to point the vent all the way up too. i figured this out after breaking a few of the little tabs on the back.

      if you want to clean the years of gunk off while they're out let them soak in hot water with some dish soap. rinse and repeat or use a toothbrush (roommate's, younger sibling's, cheating g/f b/f... ) to loosen the rest of it.

      enjoy your clean vents!


    33. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:44 PM #173
      Quote, originally posted by AaronD »

      FK POWERLOOK ANGEL EYE WIRING

      Well since, pretty much no one can ever figure the stupid wiring out on the FK powerlooks for the angel eyes, Ive decided to make up a quick pic post that will hopefully help some people out....as far as the initial wiring, follw the instructions as the paper says....

      this is the passenger side light...as you can see, you will have a wire with a clip on it, just kinda hanging....thats okay....you do not need that wire, so just leave it....the other wire that im holding, runs into the wire loom and runs to the drivers side headlight....
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...2.JPG

      now asuming that you have followed all of the wiring instructions thus far, you should have no problem figring out the little control module thingy, basically just hook it up to the battery and the proper wires as told...
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...3.JPG

      now this is where evryone gets confused....how the hell do i make the angel eyes light up? well theres a few options...

      option #1- I want my angel eyes on ALL of the time no matter what! as DRLs and also to stay on with the headlights...

      this is how to complete option #1- you can either tap into the wire show in the pic below (the grey wire that plugs into the red one) or you can tap into the harness as ive shown in the second pic...(were working on the drivers side now)
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...4.JPG
      here you can see i used a wire connector to tap into the harness...when you look at the harness, the gray wire goes in one end, but nothing comes out the other end...this is where you can tap your wire in....
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...8.JPG

      from here, you run the wire that you tapped in (either by method 1 or 2) to your SIDE marker light, NOT your front blinker....there are 2 wires on the side marker...an orange/brown one and a white one with a black stripe...you want to tap into the wite/black striped one... as shown here..sorry for clarity, you get the idea
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...5.jpg

      now your angel eyes should light up and stay on as DRL's and also stay on when you turn your headlights on..

      Option #2- I want my angel eyes on as DRL's but NOT on with my headlights..

      this is how to fufill option #2...

      follow all of the instructions above to the last step...INSTEAD of tapping into your side marker you are going to run the wire (that you tapped into the gray/red wire) through the firewall inside the car...

      remove all of the plastic to reveal the fuse box and to give you some room to work...now looking at the fuse box, look beyond it, past the back of it and you will see a ton of wires...locate a yellow wire, it will have a yellow clip in the middle of it (hence clipping itself into itself), its easy to locate.

      Once you find that wire, unclip that yellow clip (from itself) and tap your angel eye wire that you ran inside, right into the end of the clip. IIRC it will be the end that runs toward the steering wheel, not the end that runs outside...you may have to do a quick trial and error.

      once your tapped into there, your angel eyes will be on as DRL's but go off when you turn on your headlights.

      Hope this helped some of you...and if you need more wire combo's well...be creative cause thats all i got for ya....happy powerlooking!
      http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...4.JPG




      Modified by nater at 8:30 AM 3-2-2008

    34. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 06:53 PM #174
      Quote, originally posted by nappent »
      Ok for all of us with the crappy stock keyless entry with the 10ft range here is a mod for you.

      I can honestly say if you do this mod your range could be up to 100ft. Check it out at my site...
      http://myvr6.org/page/1hfl5/DI....html

      More picture and better instructions then what you might have seen before.


      http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg

      Don't let the pic fool you. I'm at least 60 feet away. I'm actually on the other end of my street. Very cool isn't it? Look at the blinkers they are flashing because I'm unlocking it from 60+ ft away.

      **I would say this is a must try mod**


      Modified by nater at 12:02 PM 3-2-2008


      Modified by nater at 1:26 PM 10-13-2008


    35. Global CSI Moderator nater's Avatar
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      08-14-2007 07:07 PM #175
      Quote, originally posted by EuroVR6Mk3 »

      euro front rebar on NA radiator support




      Modified by nater at 12:08 PM 3-2-2008

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