The "Official" Golf / Jetta MK3 Forum FAQ

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by 2.slow_GTi »

Lets see. Your gonna need some 320 and 600 grit sand paper. Some Sandable primer. The color of your choice. Some clear sealant. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...83333 Start by cleaning the wheel. The better you prep the better the results. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...28935 sand down the arean you want to paint with the 320 grit sand paper. you may need to start with something rougher if your wheels are in bad shape. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...03125 mask off the area you don't want to paint (obviously) http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...91435 Prime the metal using thin even coats. Remember with spray cans thin even coats work better than thick heavy coats. Sand the primer after your done so the finish is as smoth as possible. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...23032 Paint the wheels, again using thin even coats. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...32292 Wait 3-5 days for full drying as per the instructions on the can of paint. The paint will darken as it drys. When it's dry get the clear sealant and again use even thin coats for best results. http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...26736 final results http://www.fototime.com/ftweb/...36111 hope it useful. later.

Modified by nater at 8:28 AM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by chipmunkpie »

if you're trying to get your grilles out of the dashboard air vents cut a piece of coat hanger with a "U" shape on one end. hook it around one of the horizontal slats all the way to one side and pull until it pops free. do the same on the other side. it might help to point the vent all the way up too. i figured this out after breaking a few of the little tabs on the back. if you want to clean the years of gunk off while they're out let them soak in hot water with some dish soap. rinse and repeat or use a toothbrush (roommate's, younger sibling's, cheating g/f b/f... ) to loosen the rest of it. enjoy your clean vents!

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by AaronD »

FK POWERLOOK ANGEL EYE WIRING Well since, pretty much no one can ever figure the stupid wiring out on the FK powerlooks for the angel eyes, Ive decided to make up a quick pic post that will hopefully help some people out....as far as the initial wiring, follw the instructions as the paper says.... this is the passenger side light...as you can see, you will have a wire with a clip on it, just kinda hanging....thats okay....you do not need that wire, so just leave it....the other wire that im holding, runs into the wire loom and runs to the drivers side headlight.... http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...2.JPG now asuming that you have followed all of the wiring instructions thus far, you should have no problem figring out the little control module thingy, basically just hook it up to the battery and the proper wires as told... http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...3.JPG now this is where evryone gets confused....how the hell do i make the angel eyes light up? well theres a few options... option #1- I want my angel eyes on ALL of the time no matter what! as DRLs and also to stay on with the headlights... this is how to complete option #1- you can either tap into the wire show in the pic below (the grey wire that plugs into the red one) or you can tap into the harness as ive shown in the second pic...(were working on the drivers side now) http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...4.JPG here you can see i used a wire connector to tap into the harness...when you look at the harness, the gray wire goes in one end, but nothing comes out the other end...this is where you can tap your wire in.... http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...8.JPG from here, you run the wire that you tapped in (either by method 1 or 2) to your SIDE marker light, NOT your front blinker....there are 2 wires on the side marker...an orange/brown one and a white one with a black stripe...you want to tap into the wite/black striped one... as shown here..sorry for clarity, you get the idea http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...5.jpg now your angel eyes should light up and stay on as DRL's and also stay on when you turn your headlights on.. Option #2- I want my angel eyes on as DRL's but NOT on with my headlights.. this is how to fufill option #2... follow all of the instructions above to the last step...INSTEAD of tapping into your side marker you are going to run the wire (that you tapped into the gray/red wire) through the firewall inside the car... remove all of the plastic to reveal the fuse box and to give you some room to work...now looking at the fuse box, look beyond it, past the back of it and you will see a ton of wires...locate a yellow wire, it will have a yellow clip in the middle of it (hence clipping itself into itself), its easy to locate. Once you find that wire, unclip that yellow clip (from itself) and tap your angel eye wire that you ran inside, right into the end of the clip. IIRC it will be the end that runs toward the steering wheel, not the end that runs outside...you may have to do a quick trial and error. once your tapped into there, your angel eyes will be on as DRL's but go off when you turn on your headlights. Hope this helped some of you...and if you need more wire combo's well...be creative cause thats all i got for ya....happy powerlooking! http://www.pifiu.com/upload/up...4.JPG

Modified by nater at 8:30 AM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by nappent »

Ok for all of us with the crappy stock keyless entry with the 10ft range here is a mod for you. I can honestly say if you do this mod your range could be up to 100ft. Check it out at my site... http://myvr6.org/page/1hfl5/DI....html More picture and better instructions then what you might have seen before. http://www.we-todd-did-racing....D.jpg Don't let the pic fool you. I'm at least 60 feet away. I'm actually on the other end of my street. Very cool isn't it? Look at the blinkers they are flashing because I'm unlocking it from 60+ ft away. **I would say this is a must try mod**

Modified by nater at 12:02 PM 3-2-2008


Modified by nater at 1:26 PM 10-13-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by EuroVR6Mk3 »

euro front rebar on NA radiator support

Modified by nater at 12:08 PM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by an anonymous party »

If your Heater core goes out on you, and you get coolant fumes in the face, flooded car etc, before you start to pull the dash and get suicidal, call the 1800 VWoA Customer Service line, file a case, and see what they can do. You'd be amazed. I just got mine covered 100%, so its worth a shot.

Modified by nater at 8:26 PM 10-20-2007

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by AaronD »

those hard wiring aftermarket radios this is for those of us who are too cheap to buy an adapter and want to hardwire aftermarket radios in our cars. if you dont have a bentley it could be hard to figure out the colors etc....heres a chart for you this is from my premium vw deck....think its the same for deluxe. these wires are all from #2 and #3 clip...#1 was not used on my radio... LEFT side is VW---RIGHT side is aftermarket color lt. blu/grn stripe---violet rt. rear + brwn/pnk stripe---violet/blk stripe rt. rear - red/white stripe---gray rt. frnt + brwn/white stripe---gray/black stripe rt. front - blu/blk stripe---white lft front + brwn/blu stripe---white/blk stripe lft front - red/grn stripe---green lft rear + brwn/blk stripe---green/blk stripe lft rear - brwn/white stripe---Alarm sys control mod. brwn/pink stripe---ignition gray/blu stripe---radio illumination red/white stripe---battery + brown---black ground

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by punkassjim »

I've been seeing it in a lot of threads lately, so I figured I'd post this little tip: The main reason for people's reverse gears getting chipped (clicking noise when backing up) is because people shift into and out of reverse while still rolling. If you're rolling forward and you shift into reverse, you'll hear a CLUNK! If you take it out of reverse while still rolling backward, you'll sometimes hear a slight clicking as the teeth are disengaging. Take care to come to a complete stop before engaging or disengaging reverse. Your tranny will thank you for it. The dealer who sold me my car said they get at least a couple VWs in per month with chipped reverse idler gears. Take care, and it won't happen to you.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Air_Cooled_Nut »

-Consult your Bentley or Haynes shop manual as necessary. -Remove the knee pad below the steering wheel, drop the fuse/relay board down (out of it's hanger). This allows you to reach up into the dash. -(Optional)Remove the head light switch and trim (or air bag idiot light) to the left if necessary to allow more light and see things better. -Remove BOTH plugs (T10 and T6) from the stock alarm module. These will NOT be replaced, they stay unplugged. -On the T6 plug, jumper the #5 and #6 slots. The T6 plug is numbered like so (facing plug): 2 | | 1 4 | | 3 6 | | 5 -If you are using wire, make sure it is at least 10-gage. You could probably get away with a smaller gage wire, like 12, but I wouldn't recommend it. -Make sure the jumper is adequately insulated (for example, wrapped in electrical tape). -Except for the two plugs you disconnected, put everything back together. -That's it! You need the T10 plug disconnected otherwise the alarm module clicks (internal relay I assume). This modification will NOT affect the central locking system for cars that DO NOT have keyless entry. If your car has keyless entry I cannot confirm nor deny that this may or may not affect your keyless entry system (I'm guessing that it won't affect it but don't quote me on that!).

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by DonL »

Some tips for doing an automatic to manual transmission conversion: ... I just got done doing this on my brother's Passat a few weeks ago so some points may differ. It's essentially the same, though. It's best to find a donor car at a salvage yard rather than run around chasing down different parts from different sources. If you can get all the parts from one place, do it. It's can be a major PITA otherwise. Regardless, your profile lists a GL, so I'm assuming 4-cyl. VR6s are a different animal and more complicated): - trans - mounts and brackets with all linkage - shifter, shifter box, and interior console trim pieces - pedal assembly - manual trans ECU - starter - clutch, pressure plate, flywheel - Bentley manual (trust me on this one, too) I'm not going to go step by step here, but essentially, strip out everything that has to do with the automatic, like listed above. Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. A few things to keep in mind: - We thought the pedal assembly was going to be the biggest PITA of the whole job, that we'd have to strip the whole dash out, etc. We didn't. With the kneebar as as much stripped out from underneath as possible, it's possible to unbolt the pedal assembly, pull it up "alongside" the steering column, and rotate it out from underneath the dash. You'll wrestle with it, but it wasn't that bad. Don't forget the two bolts on the bottom of the bracket underneath the carpet. - The manual and auto trans cars do seem to have different ECUs, at least this one did. The AT car's engine ECU, from what we could determine, is set up to integrate with the transmission ECU. Unless the ECU took a static hit during the swap and needed to be replaced, the car started and idled, but drivability was absolute crap. - You'll have to bypass the starter interlock circuit, which is built into the ignition wiring of AT cars. Comparing the MkIII Bentley with what I recall from the Passat, there's a 6-pin connector on the trans. I think, but don't hold me to this, you have to jump from the black/blue wire to the red/black. I'm comparing park/neutral relay schematics, and the Passat had different wiring, so I'm looking at the location-to-location wiring colors. - To swap the linkage, you'll have to drop the front end of the exhaust and remove the heat shield tin from the underside of the tunnel to gain access from the bottom. - The cable pass-thru hole in the firewall is there, but blocked with a plastic plug. Pop it out and you should be good to go. You may have to trim some of the heat-isolating material from the firewall to get a clean fit for the cable, but it shouldn't be any big deal. - Follow the Bentley as much as you can. Things like the pedal assembly shouldn't be as critical, but the engine compartment work should be done carefully and thoroughly, so make sure you don't miss any important steps. - Some of the bolts are much more easily removed with an impact wrench, such as the torque converter and the drive plate. If you have access to a compressor, I highly recommend it. You can jam any rotation with breaker bars and sockets and get by, but the effort and time becomes very frustrating. Once you get all the crap-o-matic stuff off of the car, and the pedals and linkage installed, the rest is essentially like doing a clutch job. Replace any and all the seals you can while you have everything apart. Drive your car and have more actual control of it.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by neildorin »

For all of you who want to know how to reground your 12V engine here you go: Ok, time to put an end to all these pesky question about where to hook the grounding wires up to and if you should buy a kit or not. DO NOT buy a kit. Unless you're buying it from other 'texers who have fitted it to your engine don't bother or you'll have tons of excess wire in your engine bay that will just clutter it up. It's also much cheaper to just go to your local car audio retailer and pick the stuff up. Here's my DIY for the 12V guys (2.0l is very similar, just use a bit of inginuity if the points differ...) Ok stuff needed: (total cost if you buy the stuff at full retail and don't get it at cost like me ~$55c dn or $41 USD. You should easily be able to get it cheaper) 1. 9-12 ft of 4awg grounding wire (I used Scosche EFX2 brown wire $3.00cdn/ft retail) 2. 10 gold 4awg ring connectors ($2.00cdn per) 3. BIG pliers for crimping 4. Knife for stripping insulation 4. Soldering iron and solder if you wish (I soldered one, but it was a pain, the solder doesn't adhere to the gold terminals very well and if you crimp right, those connecters are never coming off) 5. Ratchet with extension and various sockets (10mm, 13mm) 6. 5mm allen wrench First off, do yourself a favor and disconnect the negative battery terminal so as not to incidentally kill yourself. I measured the wires one by one. I would crimp one connector on the end of the length of bulk wire i had, attach it to the point I was mounting to loosely and run the wire where I wanted till I had an approximate idea of length. Then leave a couple extra inches of play and mark the wire. I would then detach the other end and cut the wire and crimp on the second connector. As a start, here's a pic of the engine bay AFTER all the wires were installed showing the general area of all the mounting points. Note how you can't actually see ANY wires in this pic. If you do this mod right, it's next to invisible (unless you use some neon friggin wire or some ungodly color that doesn't belong in your engine bay... http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...1.jpg Point 1: Chassis/Unibody I used a bolt under the drivers headlight on the unibody. You can't actually see the bolt in the picture, but if you look down there, you can't miss it. 10mm socket does the trick, although there's not much room for the ratchet down there. The other end of this wire goes up to the negative battery terminal (Point 2) http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...2.jpg Point 2: Negative battery terminal This one's fairly straight forward. I would reccomend attaching to the second threaded post rather than the one I used, but I didn't have a matching bolt handy, when I pick one up I'll change it. (10mm socket) http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...3.jpg Point 3: Central point on head/block I used the head as the central grounding point because the point I used on the tranny is a bolt that goes through into the block. On my car, I was lucky and had two open threaded holes on the back of the head on the drivers side of the exhaust manifold. I picked up a 20mm M6 1.00pitch 5mm allen bolt from the local hardware store to attach the 3 wires. This is where you attach one wire from the neg battery terminal, one wire from the neg. tranny ground and one wire from the throttle body. http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...4.jpg Point 4: Negative transmission ground This one is dead easy to find, but a PITA to get at. Follow the stock ground wire from the battery terminal to a bolt on the tranny (13 mm socket plus extension to get at this one). It's right below the lower radiator hose and the distributor block. The other end of this wire goes to the central point on the head (Point 3) http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...5.jpg Point 5: Throttle body I used one of the bolts that attaches the throttle body to the intake manifold (5mm allen key). I may try a different bolt later if this one becomes a probelm. I'm not sure it will, but as you can see in the pic, it's the bolt directly above where the throttle cable mechanism is. I tightened it enough that the wires don't interfere with the mechanism at all, and even if the bolt loosens they don't but I want to make sure. If you find a better place, use it and let me know! One wire attaches here from the central point (Point 3) and one goes to the last point on the chassis (Point 6) http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...6.jpg Point 6: Chassis This point may vary from car to car, but the easiest bolt for me to get at was the one right above the A/C expansion valve (10 mm socket plus extension). The other end of this wire goes to the throttle body (Point 5) http://members.shaw.ca/neildor...7.jpg As far as what I've noticed. The first time I started the car afterwards it was dark and my instrument lights and dome light were considerably brighter than normal. My headlights were surprisingly brighter (significantly so) considering I have stock single chamber golf lights. I took the car out for a spin and throttle response did seem to be improved as well as power in the high rpms (5000+) but it's hard to tell without a dyno. Radio reception and noise is MUCH better and cleaner. For the $ spent, I think it's without question the most effective mod I've done to date As usual the typical DIY disclaimer applies. These are guidelines. I am in no way responsible for any mishap or misfortune that may result from following these instructions. If you manage to blow up your car I WILL laugh and point. Please use your discretion and be safe people. DISCONNECT THE NEG. BATTERY TERMINAL WHILE MESSING WITH ELECTRONICS.

Modified by nater at 12:10 PM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by bluejettaVR6 »

so because i had a hard time finding paint codes for my car and such, i bet others have had the same problem, i've compiled this list of ALL available colors on the VW/AUDI 94-99 manufactured cars. These included special edition models such as the DE's and such, also include any European specialty colors such as Cactus Green, enjoy. 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA1Z Light Sahara Sand 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA6U Dark Teal Pearl 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA7Y Pewter Gray 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA9V Brilliant Black 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB5T Steel Blue 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB6T Turquoise 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB7Z Satin Silver 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC2U Sherry 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3T Pearl Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3Y Bordeaud Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC5P Dusty Mauve Pearl 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6P Dragon Grey 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6U Classic Green 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD7V Platinum Grey 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LH5Y Smoke Silver Blue 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LH5Z Deep Atlantis Blue 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK3A Paprika Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK4U Ice Grey Violet 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK4Z Bromberry 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LL5V Jamaica Aqua Blue 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LOA9 not available - 3 stage 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LP3D Flash Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LP6M Caribbean Teal 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3H Laser Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3Y Cerise Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY6P Ragusa Green 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY7P Titanium Gray 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY7T Crystal Silver 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9B Brilliant Black 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ3N Rubin Red 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ4V Amethyst Grey 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5N Minerva Blue 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6P Gomera 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6U Emerald 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L041 Black 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L90E Alpine White 1994 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI R902 Artic White 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA1Z Light Sahara Sand 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA9V Brilliant Black 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB5T Steel Blue 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB6T Turquoise 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB7U Titanium Grey 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3T Pearl Red 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3Y Bordeaud Red 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC5C Aqua Blue 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC5P Dusty Mauve Pearl 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6P Dragon Grey 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6U Classic Green 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD7V Platinum Grey 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LH3D Marsala Red 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LH5Y Smoke Silver Blue 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LH5Z Deep Atlantis Blue 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG3E Red Solid 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG6R Mullberry 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7N Bright Surf 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7X Suede Silver 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK4Y Violet 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK4Z Bromberry 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LL5V Jamaica Aqua Blue 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LO41 Black 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LP3G Flash Red 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LP6M Caribbean Teal 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1995 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI R902 Artic White 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB9A Candy White 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3T Pearl Red 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC4T Twilight Violet 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC5U Aqua Blue 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6P Emerald Green Mica 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6U Classic Green 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC9Z Black Magic Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG4R Soft Violet 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5P Silk Blue 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5Q Catalina Blue 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG6S Sequoia Green Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7N Bright Surf 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7X Suede Silver Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK2Y Cinnabar 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK7Y Storm Grey Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LN5Y Windsor Blue Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LO41 Black 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LP3G Flash Red 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI R902 Artic White 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9B Brilliant Black 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L09B not available - 3 stage 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3H Laser Red 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY7M Aluminum Silver Metallic 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6U Emerald Mica 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3Z Autumn Red 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5T Europa Blue Mica 1996 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ1T Cashmere Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB7Z Satin Silver Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB9A Candy White 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3M Memory Red Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3T Pearl Red 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6P Emerald Green Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC9Z Black Magic Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5R Windsor Blue Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG6S Sequoia Green Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7X Suede Silver Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK7Y Storm Grey Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LN5Y Windsor Blue Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LO41 Black 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L09B not available - 3 stage 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1B Brilliant Yellow 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1Z Bamboo Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3H Laser Red 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3Z Autumn Red Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY4N Byzanz Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY5T Pelican Blue Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY6L Tropic Green Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY6M Aqua Green Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY7M Aluminum Silver Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9B Brilliant Black 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9G Casablanca White 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ1T Cashmere Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ3N Rubin Red Metallic 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ4V Amethyst Grey Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5L Ming Blue Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5T Europa Blue Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6U Emerald Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ8P Sable Brown Mica 1997 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ9U Volcano Black Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L041 Black 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L132 Ginster Yellow 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB3Y Colorado Red Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB6N Elegant Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB7Z Satin Silver Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB9A Candy White 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3L Hot Chili Red Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6N Royal Green Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6P Emerald Green Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6U Classic Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6V Jaspis Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC9Z Black Magic Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD1B Yellow 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD7V Silver Gray Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG3L Red 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5U Porcelain Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG6V Cyber Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7X Suede Silver Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG9R Silver Arrow Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LK3A Paprika Red 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LL5Y Nebio Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LL5Z Island Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LN5Y Windsor Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LO9B not available - 3 stage 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LR5V Fjord Blue Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LW5Y Techno Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LW5Z Jazz Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1B Brilliant Yellow 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1T Melange Beige Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1Z Bamboo Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D Tornado Red 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3H Laser Red 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY5T Pelican Blue Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY6L Tropic Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY6M Aqua Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY7M Aluminum Silver Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9B Brilliant Black 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9G Casablanca White 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ1T Cashmere Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ3L Hibiscus Red Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ4V Amethyst Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5K Santorin Blue Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ5L Europa Blue Mica 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6H Racing Green Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6L Cactus Green Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ8N Andora Red Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ8P Sable Brown Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ9U Volcano Black Mica Metallic 1998 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI R902 Artic White 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA041/A1 Black 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA1U/Q9 Futura Yellow Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA27/S7 Tropic Orange Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LA9B/B7 Cool White 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB3Y/Q7 Colorado Red Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB7Z/B4 Satin Silver Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB9A/B4 Candy White 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC3X/9W not available - 3 stage 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC6M/T3 Bright Green Mica 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LC9Z/Z4 Black Magic Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD1B/J5 Yellow 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LD7V/C1 Silver Gray 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG3L/P2 Red 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5T/G3 Batik Blue Mica 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LGV/L9 Cyber Green Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG7V/X4 Desert Wind Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG9R/P4 Silver Arrow Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI L0B9/D4 not available - 3 stage 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LW5Y/K9 Techno Blue Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY3D/G2 Tornado Red 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6L/E7 Artic White 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ6W/8L Cosmic Green Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ7W/1X Indigo Blue Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ7X/8X Canyon Red Mica 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ8N/2H Atlantic Blue Mica 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ9V/3A Paprika Red 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ9W/4Z not available - 3 stage 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1B/F2 Elegant Green Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY1C/1T Hot Chili Red Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LY9B/A2 Brilliantschwarz 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ1T/Z9 Nebio Blue Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LZ7W/1X Island Blue Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LN5Y Windsor Blue Metallic 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LG5A Fjord Blue Mica 1999 VOLKSWAGEN / AUDI LB6N/N7 Jazz Blue Metallic

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Jacon »

Got my caps from 4thChiripin and today I decided to install them This is on my Mk3 2.0 Jetta with Bilstein Sports and H&R sports: tools: Impact wrench, 3/4 deep socket, 5/8 deep socket, spring clamps and I can't remember the rest, but those are the major ones With 2 guys, this took about 1 hr. 1) remove the wheel 2) remove the two bolts that hold the spindle to the strut: http://homepages.vdubaddiction...s.jpg 3) using the impact wrench unbolt the strut from the strut mount in the strut tower (i forgot to take a pic) 4) remove strut from the tower (it will fall out from the wheel well) http://homepages.vdubaddiction...n.jpg 5) use spring clamps to clamp down springs as shown! Very Important! http://homepages.vdubaddiction...s.jpg 6) use impact wrench to unbolt the nut from the top of the strut. http://homepages.vdubaddiction...l.jpg 7) once the nut is off, remove the rubber stop thing (i cant remember the name ) until you see the strut bearing. http://homepages.vdubaddiction...g.jpg 8) SLOWLY remove the bearing as it is fragile and also may sometimes stick. It should just pop up and off. 9) remove the spring cap and replace it with the new one: (difference is spring cap size) http://homepages.vdubaddiction...s.jpg put on new cap and make sure you line up the perch with the end of the spring http://homepages.vdubaddiction...p.jpg 10) INSTALL IN REVERSE ORDER OF DISSASEMBLE now for pics of the finished product. **Note** these pics were take IMMEDIATELY after install and the springs will settle a tad bit more after you drive around on them Technically, you should see a 1/2inch drop from these on a 2.0 http://homepages.vdubaddiction...p.jpg http://homepages.vdubaddiction...t.jpg http://homepages.vdubaddiction...r.jpg Happy Capping

Modified by nater at 12:12 PM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by TooSlow2Point0 »

There is actually an easier way to disable the seat belt tone that goes off when you start your car. Open your back door and get on yours knees in a good enough position to see underneath your front seat. There is a connection between two wires, one from the floor and one from the seat (depending on if you have cloth or leather you might have to dig around the bottom of the seat to find the wires). The wire coming from the floor is longer, so follow the wire with your fingers up towards the bottom of the seat, at the end of the wire will be a plug. To replease the connection, put your fingers on both ends, press in, and pull. If you have trouble gettin your hands down under there, go find a kid, because the area is pretty tight.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Red Baron Golf »

GTI headlight 'conversion' is tres simple: 1. First off, you need to remove your grille and stock headlights. Easy. There are 4 screws up top on the rad, then there are a couple of tabs underneath each headlight that you need to push up on to pull off the grille. The tabs at the top of the grille will likely break off if you're not careful. Heck, they'll break even if you are careful, LOL. 2. Now there are I think 3 or 4 hex bolts to remove the headlights. 3. Pull out your stock bulbs 4. Look at the stock 9004 harness. There should be three wires. One will be brown, the others are yellow and white. 5. Here is when you need to start some soldering and shrink tubing / splicing. You can either cut off the stock harness, or leave it and tap into the wires. I left mine on in case I wanted to go back to stock (unlikely) now I'm just too lazy to cut the thing off. What you need to do is tap into the brown GROUND wire, and create another ground wire. Give yourself enough length to get to the headlight! Take a look at the new 9005 bulb harness (highbeam) and 9006 harness (lowbeam). One of them will be a ground wire (can't remember which, and I'm not sure if it matters or not, I just guessed and everything worked) the other will be one of the yellow or white wires. I *think* it's yellow to the inside highbeams and whites to the outside, but I can double check if anyone wants to know. 6. So all you need now is to wire up the yellow wire and one ground to the high beam, then the other ground wire and white wire to the low beam and make sure you solder everything, shrink tube everything, then tape it all up (I used black hockey tape, just like the OEM stuff!) and you're done. Repeat for the other side, put the lights back in, grille back in and you're done. 7. Test everything. You'll see that when you flick the highbeams on, only the inside lights stay on. This is normal. To get the low beam to stay on with the highs, you need to build a bridge. If you have fogs, they will also go off. Here is the info on how to do the bridge:

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by mtl_jetta_gt »

For all you people that want to keep the stock shift knob but get rid of that ugly plastic boot. In first place, find a mk4 leather boot. Afterward, you need to cut down your shifter using the diy (minimum of an inch). Flip over the boot and tie it with a clip or tie wraps in the carved place at the bottom end of the shift knob. Then flip it over, screw it on the shift rod. Stretch the bottom end to fit it around and there you go, you have a stock looking shifter with a whole lot better looking boot.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by John Galt »

Everything you ever wanted to know about the VR6 engine, PART 2 *** Two-Stage Fuel Pump *** The two-stage pump has one motor that drives two separate pumps. * Stage One * Fuel is drawn in through a screen at the bottom of the housing by a vane-type pump. The vane-type pump acts as a transfer pump. It's designed to supply fuel to the fuel accumulator which is within the pump housing. Fuel vapors and air bubbles from fuel returning from the engine, as well as excessive fuel, is forced out of the accumulator through a fuel vent. * Stage Two * The gear-type pump draws fuel in from the bottom of the accumulator and through a screen. The fuel is then forced through the pump housing by the gear pump and out the top. *** Fuel Injectors *** The injectors are supplied 12 volts by the Power Supply Relay and are grounded through the Motronic ECU. They are opened sequentially in the cylinder firing order. Injection quantity is determined by the injector opening time. *** Fuel Tank Ventilation *** The following inputs are used to control the fuel tank ventilation: .Engine speed .Engine load .Engine coolant temperature .Signal from throttle valve Potentiometer (G69) Fuel vapors from the fuel tank are vented to the carbon canister. When the engine is warm and above idle speed, the vapors will be drawn into the intake manifold via the carbon canister. Depending on engine load and oxygen sensor signal, a frequency valve will regulate the quantity of vapors entering the intake manifold from the carbon canister * Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) * The ECU determines the duty cycle of the frequency valve to regulate the flow of fuel vapors from the carbon canister to the engine. When no current is supplied to the valve, it remains in the open position. The valve is closed (duty cycle 100%) when the cold engine is started. * Triggering: * The Carbon Canister Frequency Valve (N80) begins to operate after oxygen sensor operation has begun. Valve operation is load- and speed-dependent during driving operation. The valve is completely open at full throttle and completely closed during deceleration fuel shut-off. * Substitute function: * If power to the valve is interrupted, the valve remains completely open. This could lead to rough running at idle speed and during partial load acceleration. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognizes open circuits and short circuits in the component. *** Air Mass Sensor (G70) *** A hot-wire air mass sensor is used to measure the airflow into the engine. The air mass sensor is attached to the air filter housing. The sensor housing includes a baffle grid which reduces air turbulence and pulses. The sensor has no moving parts. A thin, electrically-heated , platinum hot-wire in the sensor is kept 180°C (356°F) above the air temperature measured by the thin-layer platinum temperature sensor. As airflow increases, the wires are cooled and the resistance of the sensors changes. Current to the platinum hot-wire changes to maintain the constant temperature difference. The resulting current change is converted to a voltage signal and is used by the Motronic ECU to calculate the volume of air taken in. Dirt or other contamination on the platinum wire can cause inaccurate output signals. Because of this, the platinum wire is heated to 1000° C (1832° F) for a period of one second each time the engine is switched off to burn off this dirt or contamination. If a fault develops with the signal from the air mass sensor, the signal from the throttle potentiometer is used as a substitute in order for the car to remain derivable. *** Throttle Valve Potentiometer (G69) *** The throttle valve potentiometer is connected to the throttle valve shaft. It informs the ECU about the power requested by the driver. Idle and full load switched are not incorporated in the Throttle Valve Potentiometer. Idle speed and full throttle applications are recognized by the ECU from the voltage output of the potentiometer. * Signal application: * Throttle Valve Potentiometer signals are used for determination of idle speed stabilization, idle air volume control, fuel after-run shut-off and fuel load enrichment. * Substitute function: * The ECU uses the Air Mass Sensor signal and engine speed signal as a replacement variables if the Throttle Valve Potentiometer fails. * Self-diagnosis: * Self-diagnosis recognizes: Short circuits to positive Short circuits to ground Note: On vehicles with automatic transmission, this potentiometer is combined in a housing with the potentiometer for the transmission control. *** Engine Speed / Reference Sensor (G28) *** Engine speed and crankshaft position are registered by a single sensor located on the engine block. The sensor reads a toothed wheel mounted on the crankshaft to read engine speed. The toothed wheel has a two-tooth gap which is used as the measuring point for the crankshaft position. * Signal application: * The signal is used for registration of engine speed and, in conjunction with the signal from the Hall Sender, for recognition of ignition TDC in cylinder Number 1. * Substitute function: * There is no substitute functions for Speed Reference Sensor G28. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognizes a missing signal from the Speed/Reference Sensor after cranking the engine for five seconds. An impaulsing signal is recognizes by self-diagnosis when the reference mark signal and Hall sender signal do not correspond. * Hall Sender (G40) * The Hall sender is mounted in the ignition distributor. It is an electric control switch based on the Hall effect. The hall sender consists of a magnetic enclosure and integrated semiconductor circuit (the Hall IC). the IC is made of plastic to protect it from dampness, soiling and mechanical damage. A voltage signal is generated when the trigger wheel interrupts the magnetic field created by the Hall IC. The trigger wheel turns at camshaft speed. This means that the Hall sender generates one voltage signal for every two crankshaft revolutions. * Signal usage: * The Hall Sender (G40) signal and the Engine Speed/Reference Sensor (G28) signals are used to identify cylinder Number 1 for sequential fuel injection and knock regulation. * Substitute function: * There is no substitute function for the Hall Sender signal. The vehicle will start and run without this signal but the ignition timing will be retarded and there will be no sequential fuel injection. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU will recognize a break in wiring or a continuously applied signal voltage (during start attempts as well). *** Knock Sensor I (G61) And Knock Sensor II (G66) *** Two knock sensors are used. A knock sensor works like a microphone to "listen" for spark knock or detonation. When knocking occurs, the ignition timing is retarded until the knocking is eliminated. Since the knock limit differs from cylinder to cylinder and changes within the operating range, knock regulation is done cylinder selectively. * Signal usage: * Knock regulation does not occur until the engine coolant temperature of 40° C (104° F) is reached. Knock sensor I (G61) monitors cylinders 1, 2, and 3. Knock sensor II (G66) monitors cylinder s 4, 5 and 6. With the aid of the Hall sender signal, the ECU can determine which cylinder is knocking. The ignition angle of the knocking cylinder is retarded in steps until the knocking stops up to a maximum of 12°. If spark knock is still detected, the ECU will retard the ignition timing 11° for all cylinders and record a fault. * Substitute function: * If a knock sensor fails, the ignition timing angle of its assigned cylinders is retarded. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognized an open circuit if no signal from knock sensor I (G61) or knock sensor II (G66) is received by the ECU at an engine coolant temperature above 40° C (104° F). *** Oxygen Sensor (G39) *** The oxygen sensor (G39) is made of a ceramic material called zirconium dioxide. The inner and outer surfaces of the ceramic material are coated with platinum. The outer platinum surface is exposed to the exhaust gas, while the inner surface is exposed to the outside air. The difference in the amount of oxygen contacting the inner and outer surfaces of the oxygen sensor creates a pressure differential which results in a small voltage signal in the range of 100 to 1000 mV. The amount of voltage that is produced is determined by the fuel mixture. The oxygen sensor (G39) is heated electrically to keep it at constant operating temperature. The heater also ensures that the sensor comes to operating temperature quickly. The sensor has four wires. Two are for the heating element (ground and power). One wire is a signal wire for the sensor and one for the ground. * Signal usage: * The base injection time is corrected according to the voltage signal from the oxygen sensor to maintain a fuel/air ratio of approximately 14.7:1. This allows the three-way catalytic converter to operate at its maximum efficiency. If the fuel mixture is lean (excess oxygen), the oxygen sensor will send a low voltage signal (about 100mV) to the ECU. If the fuel mixture is rich (lack of oxygen), the oxygen sensor will send a voltage signal (about 900 mV) to the ECU. * Substitute function: * There is no substitute function for oxygen sensor (G39). If signal fails, no oxygen sensor regulation takes place. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognizes a fault if no reasonable signal voltage range is attained within five minutes after engine start with an engine coolant temperature over 40° C (104° F). The ECU also recognizes a open circuit in the wiring or a short circuit to ground andshort circuit to positive (sensor heating). *** Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) *** Coolant Temperature Sensor (G62) is an NTC resistor. It's located in the thermostat housing. AS engine coolant temperature rises, the resistance of the sensor goes down. * Signal application: * Coolant temperature sensor signals are required as a correction factor for determination of ignition timing, injection timing and idle speed stabilization. In addition, these systems are activated depending on engine coolant temperature: .Knock control .Adaptation of idle speed volume control .Oxygen sensor operation .Fuel tank venting * Substitute function: * A fixed value of 80° C (176° F) is stored in the memory of the ECU and used in case of a faulty coolant temperature signal. * Self-diagnosis: * Self-diagnosis recognizes: Short circuits to positive Short circuits to ground *** Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42) *** An intake air temperature sensor is located in the intake manifold on the left side. * Signal application: * The signal is used for idle stabilization and as a correction factor for ignition timing. * Substitute function: * If a failure of the Intake Air Temperature Sensor (G42) occurs, the Motronic Electronic Control Unit assumes a temperature of 20° C (68° F). If this happens, cold start problems could occur at temperatures under 0° C (32° F). * Self-diagnosis: * The Motronic ECU recognizes open and short circuits to this component. *** EGR System *** All Corrados will come equipped with EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation). Passats sold in California will be equipped with EGR. The EGR system is used to reduce nitrous oxide emissions (Nox). The system recirculates a small portion of exhaust gas into the intake mixture. This exhaust gas is noncombustible and takes up a small space in the intake charge. The results is lower combustion temperatures and reduced Nox emissions. The EGR system does not operate at idle because Nox emissions are low during this time. * EGR Frequency Valve (N18) * The EGR Frequency Valve (N18) is mounted on the back of the intake manifold. A control pressure (vacuum) is formed in the frequency valve from the intake manifold pressure and atmospheric pressure (from the intake air elbow). This pressure is applied to the EGR valve via the EGR frequency valve (N18). The frequency valve controls the amount of vacuum supplied to the EGR valve by switching between the connection to the EGR valve and the intake air boot. Thus, the actual amount of recirculated exhaust gas can be determined by the ECU, depending on engine speed and load conditions. A membrane valve limits the vacuum supplied to the frequency valve at 200 mbar. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU will recognize an open circuit or short circuit in the EGR frequency valve. If the EGR valve remains continuously open or closed because of mechanical failure, the EGR temperature sensor (G98) will signal this to the control unit. * Triggering: * The frequency valve (N18) ground circuit is controlled by the ECU depending on engine load and speed. * Substitute function: * There is no substitute function. If current to the frequency valve (N18) is interrupted, the EGR valve will remain closed. * EGR Temperature Sensor (G98) * The EGR temperature sensor (G98) is located in the EGR valve exhaust gas channel. It measures the temperature of the exhaust gas. The sensor is an NTC resistor. The electrical resistance of the sensor decreases as the temperature of the exhaust gas increases. * Signal usage: * The signal from the EGR temperature sensor (G98) is used only for the diagnosis of the EGR system and has no influence on the control. * Substitute function: * There is no substitute function. * Self-diagnosis: * The EGR system is switched on when the engine coolant temperature reaches 50° C (122° F). *** Crankcase Ventilation *** Crankcase vapors are vented from the cam cover to the intake air boot. A heating element is used to prevent icing during cold weather. PIN 1 = Positive (+) PIN 2 - To engine ground *** Idle Stabilizer Valve (N71) *** * Triggering: * The idle stabilizer valve (N71) is actuated on the ground side by the ECU. * Substitute function: * When a defect in the circuit is recognized, both output stages are shut off and the valve rotates to a fixed opening cross-section. This allows the engine to idle at a warm engine idle speed. * Self-diagnosis: * The ECU recognizes open and short circuits in the component. * Ignition System * Input Signals for Regulation of Ignition System .Engine speed .Engine load .Signal from knock sensors .Signal from throttle valve potentiometer .Coolant temperature .Signal from Hall sender Functions of Ignition System: .Ignition timing correction .Dwell angle regulation .Idling speed stabilization .Selective cylinder knock regulation The control unit uses the engine load and engine speed signals as well as the signal from the throttle valve potentiometer to calculate the ignition timing. If signals from the knock sensors indicate knocking combustion, the control unit retards the ignition timing of the knocking cylinder by 3° to max. 12° until the knocking tendency of the concerned cylinder is reduced. When the knocking tendency no longer exists, the ignition timing is returned to the nominal value in steps of 0.5°. When knocking occurs, the ignition timing can be different for all cylinders because of the selective cylinder knock regulation. Fluctuations in the idling speed range are compensated by changing the ignition timing with the help of idling speed stabilization. The control unit receives the idling speed signal from the throttle valve potentiometer. Dwell angle regulation guarantees the necessary charging time of the ignition coil and, therefore, ignition voltage, regardless of speed and load conditions. Coolant temperature signals are required to correct the ignition timing of a cold engine and activate knock regulation. *** Power Supply Components *** Power for the Motronic Engine Management systems is supplied via Fuse (S18) and three relays: Fuel Pump Relay (J17) (Position 12) Power Supply Relay (J271) (Position 3) Oxygen Sensor Heater Power Supply Relay (J278) (above main Central Electric Panel) There is no internal power stage relay in the Motronic ECU. Wiring for the Motronic Engine Management system is routed to the engine via a single multi-pin connector. This makes engine removal quicker and provides a test point for trouble shooting procedures. A central ground station is located on the engine block below the intake manifold. It provides a ground point for: .ECUs .Sensors for the Motronic Engine Management system (and their shielding) .Output components (injectors, etc.) ----------

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by John Galt »

Everything you ever wanted to know about the VR6 engine, PART 1 From: Annonymous To: gti-vr6@dev.tivoli.com Subject: Read this or ELSE! Date: Friday, April 11, 1997 12:46 PM Ladies and Gentelmen, Boys and Girls, Children of all ages, I present to you the Mother of all VR6 posts! This is the real thing! A one time post, if you missed this, tough ****! Don't chew on the barrel!, pull the trigger! Every last detail is covered for your vewing pleasure! The one, The only: ** Volkswagen VR-6 Engine w/ Motronic Engine Management System ** ** Technical Manual ** Service Training Self-Study Program 402 Volkswagen of America, Inc. Sevice Training Printed in U.S.A. Printed 12/91 Part # WSP 521-402-00 All information contained in this manual is based on the latest product information available at the time of printing. The right is reserved to make changes at any time without notice. Always check Technical Bulletins and the mirofiche system for information that may supersede any information included in this manual. *** Introduction *** Volkswagen has developed a new six-cylinder engine called the VR-6. This 2.8-liter engine is unique in that the V-angle between cylinder banks is 15° rather than the 60° or 90° found in most conventional V-6 engine designs. The engine features a cast-iron crankcase, one light alloy crossflow cylinder head with two valves per cylinder operated by chain-driven overhead camshafts. All fuel and ignition requirements of the VR-6 engine are controlled by the Bosch Motronic M2.9 Engine Management System. This Engine Management System features an air mass sensor, dual knock sensors for cylinder-selective ignition knock regulation, and Lambda regulation. Exhaust gases are channeled through a 3-way catalytic converter. *** Engine Specifications *** Engine code: AAA Design: Four-stroke, internal combustion engine in "Vee"/in-line Displacement: 2.8 liter Bore diameter: 81.0 mm Stroke: 90.0 mm "Vee" angle: 15° Compression ratio: 10:1 Fuel and ignition systems: Bosch Motronic M2.9 Emission control: Lambda control with catalytic converter The name, VR-6 come from a combination of Vee and the German word Reihenmotor. The combination of the two can be roughly translated as "in-line Vee." Volkswagen has designed the 15° VR-6 to take advantage of conventional in-line six-cylinder engine features (single cylinder head, narrow width and excellent balancing) with the advantages of a V-6 engine design (short overall length and compactness). *** VR-6 *** The VR-6 was specifically designed for transverse installation in front-wheel-drive vehicles. By using the narrow 15° VR-6 engine, it was possible to install a six-cylinder engine in existing Volkswagen models. *** V-6 Conventional Design *** A wider V-6 engine of conventional design would have required lengthening existing vehicles to provide enough crumple zone between the front of the vehicle and the engine, and between the engine and the passenger cell. Using the narrow VR-6 engine will help Volkswagen meet current and future front-end crash standards. *** Overview *** The drop-forged steel, six-throw crankshaft runs in seven main bearings. The connecting rod journals are offset 22° to one another. Overhead camshafts (one for each bank of cylinders) operate the hydraulic valve lifters which, in turn, open and close the 39.0-mm intake valves and 34.3-mm exhaust valves. Because of the special VR-6 cylinder arrangement with two rows of combustion chambers in the same cylinder head, the intake runners between the two cylinder banks are of varying lengths. The difference in intake length is compensated in the overhead intake manifold. Each runner is 420 mm long. Exhaust gases are channeled from two 3-branch cat-iron exhaust manifolds into a sheathed Y-pipe. From there, they are channeled into a single flow before passing over the heated Oxygen Sensor and then to the catalytic converter. The oil pump driveshaft is driven by the intermediate shaft. Fuel injectors of the Bosch M2.9 Engine Management System are mounted behind the bend of the intake manifolds. Besides being the optimum location for fuel injection, this location also helps shield the injectors during a frontal impact. The water pump housing is cast integral with the engine crankcase. In addition to the belt-driven water pump, VR-6 engine will use an auxiliary electric pump to circulate water while the engine is running and during the cooling fan after-run cycle. In the interest of environmental friendliness, a replaceable oil filter cartridge is used on the VR-6 engine. The sump-mounted oil pump is driven via the intermediate shaft. An oil pressure control valve is integrated in the pump. *** Crankcase *** The crankcase is made from Perlitic gray cast iron with micro-alloy. Two banks of three cylinders are arranged at a 15° axial angle from the crankshaft. The cylinder bores are 81 mm in diameter with a spacing of 65 mm between cylinders. They are staggered along the length of the engine block to allow the engine to be shorter and more compact than conventional V-6 engines. The centerline of the cylinders are also offset from the centerline of the crankshaft by 12.5 mm. To accommodate the offset cylinder placement and narrow "Vee" design, the connecting rod journals are offset 22° to each other. This also allows the use of a 120° firing interval between cylinders. The firing order is: 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4 *** Cylinder Head *** The aluminum crossflow cylinder head is manufactured in a permanent mold casting. The combustion-chamber side of the head is hardened through a separate chill casting Twenty stretch bolts are used to retain the cylinder head to the block. These bolts are accessible even with the camshafts installed. However, it is necessary to retorque the bolts after installation. Holes for bolts, numbers 12 and 20 are sleeved to make cylinder head installation easier. To help optimize flow through the cylinder head, the area above the valve seats has been machined. Valve shaft diameter has been reduced to 7.0 mm during development. Cylinders 1, 3, and 5 have short intake runners and long exhaust runners while cylinders 2, 4, and 6 have long intake runners and short exhaust runners. A crossflow cylinder head has allowed the use of a single cylinder exhaust manifold rather than a manifold for each bank. *** Combustion Chamber *** The surface of the combustion side of the cylinder head is flat. The combustion chamber is formed by the shape of the piston head. Ten different piston designs were tested during development of the VR-6 engine. The result of these tests was the selection of a slanted piston head within eccentric trough. The trough is offset from the center of the piston by 4.0 mm. Compression gap height (at TDC) is 1.5 mm. the compression ratio is 10:1. *** Chain tensioners *** Operated by oil pressure and spring tension. The camshafts are driven by a two-stage chain-drive system located on the flywheel side of the engine. Chains were selected to drive the valve train in consideration of a Diesel version of the VR-6 engine. A single chain (lower) is driven by the crankshaft which, in turn, drives an intermediate sprocket and shaft at a ratio of 3:4. The intermediate shaft sprocket drives the camshafts via a double roller chain (upper) at a ratio of 2:3. A double roller chain is used to drive the camshaft sprockets because it must transfer more torque than the lower chain. The specific gear ratio selection was chosen in order to keep the camshaft sprocket size small. This helps keep the overall engine height to a minimum. Chain tension is maintained by two chain tensioners. The upper chain tensioner is hydraulically operated by engine oil pressure and spring tension. The lower chain tensioner (with mechanical lock) is operated by spring tension and lubricated with engine oil. Chain flutter is prevented by guide rails on the slack side of both chains. *** Engine Cooling System *** The VR-6 Engine uses an impeller-type water pump driven by the poly-ribbed belt. The pump housing itself is cast into the engine block adjacent to cylinder number 2. In addition, an Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump also circulates engine coolant anytime the ignition is switched on. The Auxiliary Electric Coolant Pump also runs when the engine is switched off and the coolant temperature goes over 107° C (220° F). It runs in conjunction with the Radiator Cooling After-run System. Circulating the coolant during this time helps cool the engine block and prevent the possibility of air pockets forming in the cylinder head. The thermostat housing of the cooling system also houses the temperature senders G2, and F87 for the Radiator Cooling After-run System, and temperature sender G62 for the Motronic Engine Management System. *** Intake Manifold *** Volumetric efficiency must be uniform to attain smooth engine running and optimal power output under all operating conditions. This, in turn, requires identical flow conditions in the intake ports of all cylinders. Since the lengths of the intake runners in the VR-6 cylinder head are not equal, it was necessary to compensate with the internal design of the intake manifold. All air intake passages are 420 mm long. *** Auxiliary Drives *** A double-sided poly-ribbed belt drives all the auxiliary components of the VR-6 engine. A spring-operated tensioning roller keeps the poly-ribbed belt at the proper tension. The belt tension is released by threading a long 8 mm bolt into a threaded hole on the tensioner. *** System Overview *** The VR-6 engine will use the Motronic Engine Management System version M2.9. All Corrados will have EGR while only California-version Passats will have EGR. *** Fuel Delivery System *** A two stage fuel pump supplies fuel through the filter to the fuel manifold and the four hole injectors. The pump is located in the fuel tank. The fuel manifold is located on the intake manifold. A fuel pressure regulator is attached to the fuel manifold on the fuel return side. The fuel pressure regulator is a diaphragm-type regulator. Fuel pressure is regulated depending on intake manifold pressure. As intake manifold pressure changes, the pressure regulator will increase or decrease the system fuel pressure. This maintains constant pressure differences between the intake manifold pressure and fuel pressure.

And Part 2 guys.
Everything you Ever Wanted to Know about the VR6 Engine (Part 2)


Modified by nater at 7:30 PM 8-14-2007

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by DHill »

Just 'cause it gets asked so much.... 2.54 cm = 1 inch and of course, there are 10 mm to a centimeter. So 25 mm spacers are about an inch wide... and you can do the math for the rest.

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by VinceQc »

This DIY is about making your fogs as DRL. It is really simple, takes about 5 minutes. What you need: -Flat screw driver -Electrical tape -Sharp knife First, remove your headlight switch. Next, cut the yellow wire on slot 15 about 2 inches long from the switch. http://1.8t.org/~vince/misc/DIYvwvortex/drl1.jpg Strip the wire on slot 13 for about ¼ inch long and connect the yellow wire to the #13 wire. http://1.8t.org/~vince/misc/DIYvwvortex/drl2.jpg Secure all this with electrical tape http://1.8t.org/~vince/misc/DIYvwvortex/drl3.jpg You are now done, reinstall everything. When you turn ignition on, automatically, the fogs will turns on. http://1.8t.org/~vince/misc/DIYvwvortex/drl4.jpg http://1.8t.org/~vince/misc/DIYvwvortex/drl5.jpg I take no responsibility for any damage this modification to your electrical system may cause.

Modified by nater at 12:15 PM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by DHill »

Edit: page relocation will end up somewhere around here http://www.zpipedragon.com/Hom...s.htm I swear this is the last DIY I will do for awhile. Removing seat upholstery Full DIY is hosted here Seats come out easy. There are plastic trim pieces along the driver's and passenger's seat runners. Remove them. Then undo the bolt at the front and bottom of each seat and slide out. Done. Rear seats are removed just as easily. Unscrew the screws at the front. http://zpipedragon.com/images/Seats/Seats_rear.jpg Pull out cushions. Backrests are removed by taking out the retaining clips at the split,pushing back the spring-loaded locking mechanism on either side, and removing. Pushing the locking mechanism out of the way: http://zpipedragon.com/images/...l.jpg Retaining clip removal: http://zpipedragon.com/images/...s.jpg Removing the upholstery is a pain the in A$$. The construction of your seats is simple. There is a wire frame. This was placed into a mold, and the foam for your seats was molded around this wire frame. The frame gives the foam some rigidity, and it also serves as mounting points for the upholstery. It is all HOOKS AND HOG RINGS. http://zpipedragon.com/images/...2.jpg On the inside of the upholstery, there are panels sewn in that are supported by metal rods. These rods hook to the wire frame in the seat foam, and to the wire frame inside the seat. http://zpipedragon.com/images/...t.jpg The rear seats come off easy, once you figure out how to handle the hooks and hog rings (I suggest a good selection of pliers). The front backrest comes undone with a plastic trim piece along the bottom. Unclip that and disconnect the wire hooks on the rear of the seat. http://zpipedragon.com/images/...s.jpg http://zpipedragon.com/images/...3.jpg Then you can fold the upholstery up and disconnect the main support wire at the top. http://zpipedragon.com/images/...d.jpg If you have seat heaters, they are secured with merely adhesive. You can peel them off and reapply them later with headliner spray on quick-tack adhesive. The leather will pop off the head rest posts easily. The bottom cushions come off easily once the plastic trim pieces have been removed. There are sharp hooks that keep the leather in line. Don't cut yourself. If you are doing work with the seats, like reupholstering them, you might want to cut the seat heater wires. The bottom and top seat heaters are connected and it is a hassle juggling the pieces of the seat around while you work. I cut mine and soldered it later. More detailed tips are in the link above. IM if you have questions, and hopefully I can help.

Modified by nater at 12:28 PM 3-2-2008

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by DHill »

Hey look I'm going to post another DIY!! Edit: Page relocation will put it somewhere around here http://www.zpipedragon.com/Hom...s.htm Someone asked about the grit sizes for sandpaper. - 80 grit will be really rough, unless you have some nasty scratches. If you start with 120 or 220 on an already smooth surface, it should be alright. Go up to about 400 or so, 'cause that's what the autobody guys do. Primer helps too, which I didn't use because I'm a knob. No, you're a knob. No, I'm a knob. Whatever. I've also learned that painting wheels like this won't last long. They are likely to chip, unless you only drive your car 1500 miles/year. Powdercoating is the better way to go. They spray 'em, then wire them up, and cook 'em at 180 degrees C for about an hour. That's what they do for axle pieces and bike frames, and it's much more durable and much better. I just had an idea - someone should look into anodizing aluminum wheels. Oh, nevermind. The topic of wheel painting came up... here is what I learned from an experiment. Sand thoroughly. If there are any smooth surfaces the paint won't stick. Really give it a few days to cure... my experiment was still sticky after 2 days. I'd give it 3-4 days in order to save yourself some time and work. A shot of engine clearcoat afterwords will do wonders. Edit: Can you see why this wheel was the lab rat? 2 points for the winner. 1) Sand wheel and tape off areas you don't want painted. 2) Taping... 3) Look how crappy my digital camera is!! 4) Other info: sickvento says: Props to Rays_Golf_III for posting a more thorough DIY: http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=1991735

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by Teets »

MOUNTING YOUR GLX SPOILER: didn't think to say something until i saw the DIY spoiler mod in here... all you should do is line up the spoiler, and drill holes... but do it in little steps... line up the spoiler and make a marker spot on trunk lid drill holes with small bit then line up spoiler drill hole a little larger and repeat til fits... this way, you can be guaranteed for the spoiler to line up straight... by gradually increasing hole size, you can still adjust where the bigger hole will be and DON'T USE the spoiler brackets... i was told that they pull up through the trunk lid and leave indents after time... it holds perfectly well without them, and the guy who put mine on is very wise when it comes to this stuff... just use a bigger washer if you want, but don't really need to...

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by DHill »

TT Brake FAQ Q: What does the TT kit change? A: It gives you bigger rotors (11" --> 12.3"). It also gives you carrier adapter brackets to fit your stock caliper over the new, bigger rotor. You will also get pads. Q: Where do I get the TT kit? A: Check out Potterman's. They offer the kit with various rotor brands, as well as pad brands. In my experience, their price is the best. Q: If I get the TT kit, can I put my front rotors on the back? A: No. Your rear rotors also serve as hubs. The bearings for the rear wheel are in there and the rear and front rotors are therefore very different (see pic below of rear rotors). If you want bigger rear brakes, check out Bahn Brenner Q: Is the TT kit better than Wilwood? A: There is hardly any way to categorize this. The TT kit increases swept area which will increase stopping power, whereas the Wilwood kit increases the stopping force (applied by the upgraded 4-piston calipers), which also increases stopping power. The only way to know is to compare the force applied by the stock caliper and the Wilwood caliper and compare the two. Here's why: The factors that stop your car are outlined as such (if you can't mulitply, please skip): Work Done by brakes per "a" degrees of swept area --> W = f*d = f*r*a = m*P*A*r*a Where, W = work, m = coefficient of friction, P = pressure applied, A = area under brake pad, r = radius of rotor, a= angle swept Stopping power = work/time. So see how long it takes to stop your car from some pre-set speed and you can calculate the "stopping power", assuming you know some of the variables above. I posted this once before and some pencilneck got mad because I used pressure instead of force. Well, you won't measure the force directly, you would have to measure pressure. Notice, however, that pressure is P=F/A (force divided by area). P is multiplied by A, so in the end the quantity P*A =F. By measuring pressure, you get the force. Nobody is going to conduct this experiment anyway, but if you did, you'd calculate pressures (or "stress" as the MSE and ME guys call it). Pros for TT kit 1. OEM parts = easy to find/replace. 2. Affordability (about $485) 3. Uses stock calipers, so you don't have to bleed your brakes Cons for TT Kit 1. uses OEM parts! 2. if you have older calipers, you might need to replace them, and then you are getting into the price range of a total brake rebuild Pros for Wilwood 1. 4 piston calipers are neat 2. This is affordable for a total brake re-do 3. the aluminum Wilwood calipers are feather light 4. Changing pads is a snap (literally) with the nifty Wilwood design. They come right out of the top (see pic below) Cons for Wilwood 1. Technically, these brakes are for race applications only. 2. Since the parts are not OEM, if something needs replaced it is more expensive Q: Why do I have to worry about stopping power? A: Almost all of the work done by your brakes is devoted to sucking kinetic energy from your moving car and converting it to dissipated heat (which is why slotted rotors is such a good idea). What this tells you is the following. If you want to increase the stopping power of your car (the work done per unit time) you: 1) Increase the coefficient of friciton between rotor and pad (the factor "m" from above), i.e., try different materials (both kits do this) 2) Increase the pressure (P) between rotor and pad, i.e., get yourself some beefy calipers (i.e. Wilwood Kit) 3) Increase the area of your pads (A). 4) Increase the radius (r), and therefore the diameter, of your rotors (i.e., TT Kit) In this case, using the TT kit, we go from a 280mm disc to a 312 mm disc, increasing our radius by a factor of 1.114. So we increase the work by a factor of 1.114. (Since you use the stock caliper, pressure remains the same). This equates to an ~11% increase in stopping power, given a fixed amount of time for stopping measurement, the same pressure P exerted by the piston, the same area A of the pad, the same coefficient of friction m, and a fixed rotation of the rotor angle a. This is all theoretical, of course. In realistic situations, I would guess that the net increase in stopping power would be on the order of ~5% (I don't care if you think I'm being subjective. This is an internet forum ). This is far less than what you would gain with a brand new 1900$ Brembo kit, but it's a nice alternative. Now it all comes down to price. MMP sells the Wilwood kit for about $650, which isn't much more than the TT kit. You basically get a nice brake rebuild without using any stock parts. After debating over this for months, I chose the Wilwood kit. The Wilwood kit will give you kick ass braking, and it will fit in 15" wheels or larger. That's what I eventually went with:

[nater]

Quote, originally posted by punkassjim »

This worked on the seats I got, which were '94 heated sport cloth from a Jetta GLX. No guarantees that this works on all seats, but I'm guessing it will. 1. Take seat out of car or slide it all the way forward 2. remove lower plastic cover from height-adjustment side of seat 3. there's a brace that secures the seatback to the seatbottom 4. unscrew the screw that holds that brace to the seatbottom 5. move the brace outta the way 6. put the screw back in, so you don't lose it. 7. put the plastic cover back on. Now you can tilt the seat forward with the little flip-lever that holds the OTHER side of the seatback onto the seatbottom. That one's spring-loaded, just like the GTI seat, but there is no cable or lever installed to actuate it. You can make your own, but I opted to leave it that way.

[nater]

back in business.

[nater]

Key Blank Codes for Votex Roof Rack Keys:

Ilco L6S
Orion LAS1

From: Gibson5469