|Okay, I know everyone that has an upper glove box, no matter if the early vento version or the regular version, has had the handle break, rendering this great space in an otherwise space-conservative car useless. And if it hasn't broke yet it will very soon...trust me. The problem is in the design of the manual accuator inside the handle. It is a bannana-looking piece of plastic that is part of the right side hinge. The hinges for the handle are extremely thin and weak, so all that pressure on the one side will only last for so many openings until it cracks apart. Buying a new handle is pointless because the problem is in the design, thus a new one will eventually do the exact same thing. All you need to do is beef-up the original to fix it and have it never bother you again. I did this with a little help (materials wise) from some friends that work at a body shop, but I did all the work and it was fairly simple as long as you have a steady drilling hand.
Let us begin.
To start you have to remove the handle. Open the glove box and take out the two left-most screws and the handle should shimmy out easily.
Keep the screws in the glove box for safe keeping.
By this time you will see how the hinge/latch is broken at the thin parts of the plastic. If it has completely fallen off it is okay; if it is hanging by a thread make sure to keep it that way, it will be much easier to apply the adhesive if it is not all the way off yet.
To get the handle out you have to remove the metal dowel on which it swings. It comes out to the right, so use something to push it out from the left. Pull that out and don't lose it.
Now for fun part. I used a product called Speed Grip. This is like plastic welding or using bondo or using epoxy. I would reccomend Speed Grip because the stuff is like plastic concrete, but if you can't get it then use any plastic bonding hardener that is strong enough to drill through and sand.
When applying your bond of choice the most important part is making sure the latch is in the right position because you only have one shot at this part. Once you have it in the right spot goo away, be very liberal with your bond - fill the hollow of the latch, fill above it, fill below it, fill in the hole where the dowel goes, make it look like a terrible mess of goo all around the latch.
Make it look like this or more if you like.
Okay, let that set-up for a while. Depending on the bond you chose this could take a few hours or maybe overnight.
Once dry and fully hardened you need a drill and some sandpaper, something rough (between 50-100) is fine, it doesn't have to look pretty because will never see sunlight again.
Sand down the excess bond until it you have a block of bond around the hinge and latch.
Grab your drill bits and grab the metal dowel for the hinge pivot and find the one that is exactly the same size (I forget exactly what size it was, but matching the dowel to the bit isn't rocket science). Always go smaller at first if you are hesitant about drilling. When you drill your new hinge hole you should have some kind of leveling device and a table clamp or workstand clamp, it is of utmost importance that your new hole is level and straight with the left hinge.
Drill the hole. This is what it should look like after this step:
That is pretty much it other than fine tuning the sanding and test fitting and putting it back in the car. You will probably have to sand a little and see if it fits right and then sand some more, you want to keep it as beefy as possible while still being able to fit and swivel inside the housing. Here is another picture explaining this aspect.
Well, that is it. After this the handle should be good for the life of your car and you can use that precious space again.
If I left anything out when you did this let me know, I am not the best at explaining mechanical things.