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    Thread: The "Official" Golf / Jetta MK3 Forum FAQ

    1. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-11-2007 09:28 PM #126
      Quote, originally posted by LilBlkCL »
      Volkswagen Passat (B3) Dome Light Swap
      One night, it struck me silly - the dome light of the B3 Passat, this kind of one;

      ...fit right into the existing hole for the dome light on my MK3. The B3 dome light features the larger rectangular light as well as an angled map light for the driver. I had to install it.
      1. Remove the fuse in the second to last position in the fuse box. It controls the clock on the instrument cluster, central locking (if you have it), as well as the compartment lights. When I installed this I didn't, and the last thing I checked when diagnosing the problem was the fuse.
      2. Cut the wires leading to the MK3 dome light, but leave enough for you to work with. There should be 3 different ones, white/brown, brown, and black/red.

      3. You will need the connector for the B3 dome light from the Passat, so don't forget it when you are taking it out of the car and the wreckers. The B3 light has 4 wires coming out of the connector, brown, brown/white, red, and black/yellow.
      Match them up like so, with insulated wiring connectors
      ((MK3)) ((B3))
      BROWN ---- BROWN
      BROWN/WHITE ----- BROWN/WHITE
      RED/BLACK --- RED and BLACK/YELLOW
      If you do not insulate the connections, they will rub and blow the fuse.

      4. Replace the fuse in the fusebox. Gently tap the B3 dome light into the headliner.

      5. Enjoy!


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      08-11-2007 09:36 PM #127
      Quote, originally posted by brettpep »
      For those of you who love having a cone style filter instead of an airbox, but hate having to deal with a K&N style filter (due to oil, etc.) I have a solution: Go to NAPA and get yourself a # 2726 PAPER cone style filter. Worked great with my intake setup and provided equal if not better performance. When it gets dirty, throw it away and buy another. They run about $26
      UPDATE: After running this mod for almost a year, I continue to be pleased with it. The maintenance has been nill. I recently switched to a new, freshly oiled K&N style filter just to see if I had lost anything. Car ran exactly the same so I switched back to (almost) year-old paper filter.

    3. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-11-2007 09:38 PM #128
      Quote, originally posted by dirtylittlesmurf »
      All information taken from- http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?1984018
      Try these steps:
      1) It is possible that the plugs in the back of the cluster are loose, check the connections at the back
      2) Do you have a clock and odo? If you can't see those either, it might be a fuse. Check the owners manual and replace the fuse if necessary
      3) Try checking the relays above the wiring harness
      4) Check your ground on your engine harness to see if it disconected, if it is disconected there will be no power to the cluster. Also check the grounds on the back of the intake manifold.
      5) Replace the speed sensor located in the tranny (8$)
      6) Last resort... take it in to your mechanic or dealership.

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      08-11-2007 09:41 PM #129
      Quote, originally posted by jtdunc »
      Center Console Lid Locked? THE FIX
      I accidently closed the lid on my center e-brake console unit in my MKIII Jetta.
      I didn't have that key as I swapped my tan console out for a black one. No key.
      If you get a long and skinny flathead screwdriver until the right (lock) side of the lid, you can carefully pop the lid latch out of the locking groove.
      You may crack some of the plastic under the lid, but superglue can fix that. No one can really see that it is cracked anyway.
      Grab a hacksaw file and carefully file off the locking latch in the console. Won't lock anymore.
      And besides, who are we kidding. Any screwdriver or sizeable knife blade can pop that lock anyway.
      This way you'll know you can get to your garage door opener or the rear trunk button without too much trouble.

    5. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-11-2007 09:45 PM #130
      Quote, originally posted by bassmanjoshis »
      HOW TO REMOVE YOUR LCA'S FOR YOUR VR6!! [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]
      Well, Thadose and I decided to replace my bushings in my lower control arms the other day, which seems like a relatively easy job. Would have been probably if it wasn't for the VR6 engine sitting in the way! So I thought I would post this just so others might not have the same problem. I haven't looked around really to see if anybody else had posted this, but when we were doing it, the internet wasn't working so we had to figure it out ourselves.
      When you try to take off the LCA on the passenger side, the last big horizontal bolt won't come out, it comes about half way and then hits the oil pan. We were thinking about removing the oil pan, even went to get a plastic pan so I could empty my oil into it and went to get a gasket, but we decided to try and lift the motor instead. This turned out to be a much better approach. Once you remove the intake and piping, you can get to the back mount and then the rest are relatively easy. Just jack the motor up enough and voila. Much easier to do it this way. Just thought I would put that out there in case anybody else runs into the same problem. Good luck!

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      08-11-2007 09:48 PM #131
      Quote, originally posted by Jacon »
      Straight from the owners maual:
      The MFA or multi-function Indicator generates the following useful information:
      -Clock time
      -Driving time
      1 - single trip memory
      2 - total trip
      -Average fuel consumption
      1 - current trip
      2 - all combined single trips
      -distance driven
      1 - current tip
      2 - combined trips
      -average speed
      1 - single trip average speed
      2 - all combined single trips
      -engine oil temp
      -ambient outside temp

    7. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-11-2007 09:51 PM #132
      Quote, originally posted by jhayesvw »
      straight from the bentley
      Note: engine must not be switched off during the test sequence.
      interuptions will require a restart of sequence.
      1. switch ignition on for approximately 30 seconds but do not start engine.
      2. start engine and let run at idle
      3. increase engine speed to 3000-3500 RPM for 90 seconds to heat up the three way Catalytic Converter (twc)
      4. with the vehicle stationary, run the engine at idle for 40 seconds.
      5. test drive for a minimum of 13 minutes
      manual trans -3rd gear
      auto- range 3
      test drive must be carried out without interruption, which means steady pressure on the throttle so that deceleration fuel shutoff is not activated nor is the throttle allowed back to the idle position.
      6. allow the engine to run at idle for a minimum of 13 minutes
      7. after completion of the test sequience, reconnect to the scan too and observe display.
      repeat if still not set.

      damn that was lots of typing.

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      08-11-2007 10:05 PM #133
      Quote, originally posted by MasterJ220 »
      TWO IMPORTANT NOTES TO ANYONE DOING SPARK PLUGS!
      1.) Use some compressed air to clean out the grooves underneath the plug hole before removing plugs. When you are reinstalling the plugs if you touch the tip in this crap it will stick to the plug.
      2.) DO NOT put anti seize compound on the threads. I know alot of people say to do this but the plug grounds out through the connection that the threads make. If there is anything between this connection it causes resistance. My reccomendation is putting bosch platnum 4's in, they will last longer then the car.
      Have fun. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

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      08-11-2007 10:11 PM #134
      Quote, originally posted by Sh0cker »

      Multi-pin connector II, T8g, 8-pin, brown
      1 - Right rear speaker (+)
      2 - Right rear speaker (-)
      3 - Right front speaker (+)
      4 - Right front speaker (-)
      5 - Left front speaker (+)
      6 - Left front speaker (-)
      7 - Left rear speaker (+)
      8 - Left rear speaker (-)
      Multi-pin connector III, T8, 8-pin, black
      1 - Alarm system connection, to alarm system control module -J284-
      2 - Open
      3 - Open
      4 - Ignition key on/off connection (from ignition/starter switch (D), terminal SU)
      5 - Switched positive voltage (B+) for amplified roof antenna (GTI and Jetta GLX only)
      6 - Radio illumination, terminal 58b
      7 - Battery positive voltage (B+), terminal 30 (from fuse -S22-)
      8 - Ground (GND), terminal 31

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      08-11-2007 10:14 PM #135
      Quote, originally posted by Bariman82 »
      Here is how I replaced the foam and the seat heater harness on my 98 Jetta GLS. I was tired of having a part not work and even more tired of sitting off to the side at an angle for the past two and a half years. Here we go:
      Disconnect the battery if you have side airbags. This may be optional seeing that you can unplug the bag under the seat anyway. But it’s probably a good idea anyway. What I’m using here is a highly specialized tool only available direct from Germany. Errr…no. It’s a piece of wire used to drain the battery of any remaining charge. Just touch it to both terminals.

      Now go into the car. Remove this nut. It’s a 5mm allen key and a 10mm wrench.

      This is what is under the seat. I had already taken the heater harness out a few days ago, but put it back just to show what it looked like in there. The red connector is the seatbelt chime, the yellow 2-pin connector to the right of the red one is the airbag, I think, and I’m not sure what the small yellow connector is, but unplug it anyway. The third picture in this series is with the harness in place. To the left of the seat adjuster rail is where the relay would plug in. To the right and down of the red and yellow connectors is the harness plug that goes to the seat. The plug to the right of that one goes to the switch in the dash.




      Here’s the seat. Go ahead and raise the height. It might help later. Loosen the screw in front of the trim piece and the screw in the height adjuster handle. Also pop off the backrest angle knob. What I didn’t take a picture of was the pushpin setup for removing the side cover. There are two pins that you must push all the way through with a narrow screwdriver or similar object. Watch for them and catch them as they fall out. Then the trim piece just pops right off. Then remove the spring clip and the Torx bolt. Then do all this on the other side. There is a latch for the bushing under the Torx bolt. Pull back the bottom of it and the backrest will come off.

      The console side.

      Now to remove the cover. There are two pins in the back corners that anchor a sort of wire that stretches the cover on its frame. Unhook those. The cover is also hooked on the sides in two places using just a hook on the frame. It helps to stretch the cover and then pull it over the hooks. Then just work your way around the frame, pulling the cover up over the foam. You don’t have to completely remove the cover, but it is attached to the top of the foam with two long wires that are hooked at both ends—these are a real pain. Don’t rip the heater wires!

      and after that…..

      Cover’s off! Now the heating pad is glued down to the foam, so peel it off carefully.
      And this is why I was sitting sideways….

      You will have to notch the back of the foam to make room for the cable. The new foam is on the bottom.
      Yeah that brown line is a burn mark. Nothing a little fiberglass can’t fix. And don’t bother with the duct tape…it doesn’t stick to the frame.

      Here’s the new foam on the frame with the wire pad attached. I used a bit of spray adhesive to stick the edges and corners down.

      Now pull the cover over it all and fasten it to the frame. It just kinda tucks up underneath the frame. And there are those two fabric hooks on the sides to help you. The picture below is of one of the two ends of the wire. I couldn’t stretch those all the way back to the holes they came out of, so I attached them to the frame instead.
      Once you have the cover on, assembly is the exact opposite of disassembly. Just make sure you don’t pinch any wires. Stretch the side flaps of fabric over the studs, then the bushings, and snap the backrest on. The marked hole on that black piece goes over the marked stud. On the outside side (non-console), you want to put the big trim piece in place before moving the black piece into place.
      Put on the small side covers with the pushpins, pop on the handles and you’re done. Oh yeah…here’s a bad picture of the passenger side heater harness in place on the drivers’ side.
      On the far left is the relay. Then you see the airbag (yellow 2-pin), door chime (red), mystery yellow one (above the red one), heater harness connector to dash switch (black 6-pin), harness connector to heating element (far right).
      Any questions, comments, corrections or whatnot, feel free to ask or PM.

    11. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 01:30 PM #136
      Quote, originally posted by mack73 »
      How to disassemble BBS RXII wheels
      Since I've recieved numerous questions about taking apart and assembling RXII wheels I though I better write a how to since getting the proper tq settings are not easily attainable. Sorry I didn't take any pictures, but the steps should be easy enough to understand
      Step 1. You will need to pick up a 8mm triple square. Snap-on carries these as well as most autoparts stores. Sears/lowes/home depot does not.
      Step 2. Evenly remove all the bolts. Loosen the bolts in a star pattern. Don't take a bolt out one at a time. Since the wheels need to balance, minimizing the warping is key.
      Step 3. Seperate the 2 pieces. It may require a bit of force to separate the 2 sections. I had one person hold the barrel and another tug on the centers.
      That is it for the disassembly. While they are apart I would suggest stripping the clear coat so it won't fail.
      Now to reassemble.
      Step 1. Use a tap/die to clean the threads on the barrel/bolts. The leftover thread lock can bind the bolts. Then when you try to remove the bolt, it will strip the threads.
      Step 2. Place the centers back. Put thread lock on the bolts and start the bolts by hand, bringing them down evenly.
      Step 3. Torque the bolts down to 18 ft/lbs. (TQ specs from BBS of America) Bring the tq up slowely. Start at 5 lbs, then 10, then 18. ALWAYS use a star pattern to make sure that the center is correctly mounted.
      Stand back and enjoy the final product.

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      08-12-2007 01:33 PM #137
      Quote, originally posted by Supervan II »
      Needs:
      2 X equal lengths of 10G wire;
      1 X heavy-duty push-button switch;
      1 x length wire shroud
      2 X female spade terminals
      1 X 30A in-line fuse-holder + fuse
      1 X cable-tie
      How to:
      1. Disconnect + terminal on battery;
      2. Disconnect + terminal on solenoid and use cable-tie to secure;

      3. Remove drip tray cover (battery side);
      4. Remove grommet (against bulkhead) and punch hole into rubber centre;
      5. Feed new wires through grommet;
      6. Feed same wire into the cabin through grommet's hole;
      7. Remove cigarette lighter housing (including bulb) from green housing and install push-button switch;

      8. Route new wires into engine bay and shroud;
      9. Fit in-line fuse to battery end of new wire;
      10. Fit a terminal connector to ends of each wire;
      11. Connect wires inside the cabin to push-button switch and replace panel;
      12. Replace drip-tray cover;

      13. Connect new wire (without fuse-holder) to solenoid;

      14. Connect wire with in-line fuse to battery.

    13. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 01:37 PM #138
      Quote, originally posted by SnubbedMK3 »
      I've always wanted fogs on a car of my own, but I didnt want to go the cheap Wal-Mart route. So I managed to suck up a couple bucks and do it the right way. Thanks to Parts4VWs.com, Martin, Wes, Juan and all the helpful vortexers out there that made this possible.
      First off, You're gonna need the essentials.. The fogs themselves (duh), lenses, screws, a good understanding of what you need to do,
      A headlight switch capable of the foglight ability

      A 30amp automotive relay ($6.75 at Radio Shack)

      and..
      The foglight wiring harness (that comes with instructions!)

      To prevent any hair pulling, take the 30amp automotive fuse and locate your fuse box, and remove the cover with the 2 screws on each side:

      Now find the empty spot with a "10" marked on it. This is where that 30amp fuse goes, simply line up the prongs to the holes on the board and it should pop right in.



      Then, do what the wiring harness instructions.. and that's to take off the black tray that sits under the hood with the 3 bolts that hold it down.

      Under it, you'll see a big connector

      Twist and pull this sucker apart, then read more instructions on the wiring harness.. Says to locate the female side (receiving end of wires) and locate a GRAY with a YELLOW pinstripe.

      Now on the male side, locate it and take a strong WD40 straw and start pushing it through from the pin's side.


      After that damn green thing is out.. Feed the gray wire on the wiring harness through the hold to fit in with the other pins there.


      After that is done, line all the pins back together and connect and push together while twising. It should close back all the way (this took many trial and error runs before I got it)

      Safely run the wires down the wires where the big connector sat, there should be wire clips where you can interlace these new wires to keep them safe from the belts and coolant lines.


      I put the fogs in without the lenses as a test run to make sure they worked (always a good idea in case they dont)

      Keep in mind, if the fogs are switched places, they will not turn on! That already happened to me and I'm glad I figured it out.
      Now turn on the foglights via Turn & Pull out and you should get the little green light


      Now piece everything back together. Clamp the fog lenses on the fog lights with the torx screwdriver and secure it to the frame with the holes provided.
      Finished:

      MMmm

      Some vanity shots (Car is dirty.. damn that pollen!!)


      Enjoy!

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      08-12-2007 01:41 PM #139
      Quote, originally posted by VOLKSATAN »
      Okay, I know everyone that has an upper glove box, no matter if the early vento version or the regular version, has had the handle break, rendering this great space in an otherwise space-conservative car useless. And if it hasn't broke yet it will very soon...trust me. The problem is in the design of the manual accuator inside the handle. It is a bannana-looking piece of plastic that is part of the right side hinge. The hinges for the handle are extremely thin and weak, so all that pressure on the one side will only last for so many openings until it cracks apart. Buying a new handle is pointless because the problem is in the design, thus a new one will eventually do the exact same thing. All you need to do is beef-up the original to fix it and have it never bother you again. I did this with a little help (materials wise) from some friends that work at a body shop, but I did all the work and it was fairly simple as long as you have a steady drilling hand.
      Let us begin.
      To start you have to remove the handle. Open the glove box and take out the two left-most screws and the handle should shimmy out easily.

      Keep the screws in the glove box for safe keeping.
      By this time you will see how the hinge/latch is broken at the thin parts of the plastic. If it has completely fallen off it is okay; if it is hanging by a thread make sure to keep it that way, it will be much easier to apply the adhesive if it is not all the way off yet.
      To get the handle out you have to remove the metal dowel on which it swings. It comes out to the right, so use something to push it out from the left. Pull that out and don't lose it.
      Now for fun part. I used a product called Speed Grip. This is like plastic welding or using bondo or using epoxy. I would reccomend Speed Grip because the stuff is like plastic concrete, but if you can't get it then use any plastic bonding hardener that is strong enough to drill through and sand.
      When applying your bond of choice the most important part is making sure the latch is in the right position because you only have one shot at this part. Once you have it in the right spot goo away, be very liberal with your bond - fill the hollow of the latch, fill above it, fill below it, fill in the hole where the dowel goes, make it look like a terrible mess of goo all around the latch.
      Make it look like this or more if you like.


      Okay, let that set-up for a while. Depending on the bond you chose this could take a few hours or maybe overnight.
      Once dry and fully hardened you need a drill and some sandpaper, something rough (between 50-100) is fine, it doesn't have to look pretty because will never see sunlight again.
      Sand down the excess bond until it you have a block of bond around the hinge and latch.
      Grab your drill bits and grab the metal dowel for the hinge pivot and find the one that is exactly the same size (I forget exactly what size it was, but matching the dowel to the bit isn't rocket science). Always go smaller at first if you are hesitant about drilling. When you drill your new hinge hole you should have some kind of leveling device and a table clamp or workstand clamp, it is of utmost importance that your new hole is level and straight with the left hinge.
      Drill the hole. This is what it should look like after this step:

      That is pretty much it other than fine tuning the sanding and test fitting and putting it back in the car. You will probably have to sand a little and see if it fits right and then sand some more, you want to keep it as beefy as possible while still being able to fit and swivel inside the housing. Here is another picture explaining this aspect.

      Well, that is it. After this the handle should be good for the life of your car and you can use that precious space again.
      If I left anything out when you did this let me know, I am not the best at explaining mechanical things.
      -Dave


      ***FAQ-Worthy even without working pics***

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      08-12-2007 01:53 PM #140
      Quote, originally posted by Zwoobah »
      ok, here's the deal:
      offsets are relative to the centerline of the wheel. a lower offset means the wheel will stick out the side of the car farther. a wheel with an offset of 0 (et0) means the bolt surface is exactly in the middle of the wheel, width-wise. if you have a wheel with a +45mm offset (aka et45), the bolt surface of the wheel is offset 45mm to the outside of the wheel's center (the wheel will be pulled in closer to the center of the car). If you have a wheel with an offset of -12mm (et-12), the bolting surface will be offset 12mm to the inside of the wheel's centerline (the wheel will stick out of the fender more than a wheel with et0).
      now, the problem is, the offset that will work on a particular car changes anytime the width of the wheel changes, because the offset is relative to the width of the wheel itself. for instance, a stock mk3 14x6" wheel uses an offset of 45. but my 16x7.5" Abts use an offset of 35, and sit in about the same location under the fenders as the stockies. because the whole wheel is wider, the offset that works on my car changes. basically, as you go wider on the wheels, you need to go with a lower offset to move the wheels outward, so the wider wheel doesn't hit your suspension.

      the other common misunderstanding is spacers. If you start with a wheel of et45 and add a 25mm spacer, you end up with a net offset of et20 (poking the wheels OUT further). it is physically impossible to use spacers to end up with a higher offset.
      hope that helps

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      08-12-2007 01:59 PM #141
      Quote, originally posted by daviddepin »
      For the best solution to removing hard water spots on your windows, use Bar Keeper's Friend. It works better than vinegar, way better.

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      08-12-2007 02:04 PM #142
      Quote, originally posted by smokedvdub »
      hello all...here you go, all of mine broke the same way so i figure most of yours did too...
      first you want to take off the door panel. first i removing the speaker


      and then unsrewing the door lock pin

      and then you unscrew all of the torx screws on the sides and bottom of the door. and then you pry off the top half of the handle

      so that you can get to the two screw holding the door panel to the door

      after everythings unscrewed take off the panel being careful not to snap the door pull. and you should have this.

      you then take off the speaker bracket thats screwed into the door and then peel the vapor off from the outside of the door to the inside draping it near the door jamb

      you then loosen the bolts on the window clamp and then pull the window up all the way...it should stay barring noone vibrates the car alot

      with that done your now ready to loosen the regulator bolts and pull it out of the door



      and now to the culpritt.....you can pull the window clamp off the track and look where its broke now. at the top of the picture youll see a small recessed plastic square. at the top of this, there is a plastic quide that guides the cable that is broken off which in return allows the metal piece on the wire to pull out of the recess leaving your window broke due to nothing supporting the clamp.


      to fix this is very ghetto but it works. youll need a somewhat strong wire tie and a wire butt connector(pretty thick)...see what i mean ghetto...very thick butt... ... heres what you do. you first thread the wire tie under the cable on the track right above the metal piece thats attached to the wire. and thenbring both ends of the tie through the clamp as you set it back on the track

      you then place the butt connector over the whole to bridge the gap and the pull the wire tie as tight as you can


      in the process of doing this youll see whats happening...your basically making a wire guide so that the clamp will stay attached to the track.
      after doing this, replace everything and your window should work again. just make sure that when you clamp the window back on give it a few test runs to make sure the window is straight and not struggling on the way up. i hope this helps and i hope i can save alot of people from forking over the benjamin at the dealership
      if theres any questions im me.

    18. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:11 PM #143
      Quote, originally posted by Abracadaver »
      Proper removal of steering wheel and airbag.
      sorry if it'd been posted.

      Quote, originally posted by Bentley »
      1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
      2. Center steering wheel in straight-ahead position.
      3. Remove both socket head screws from rear of steering wheel.
      4. Carefully remove airbag unit from steering wheel and disconnect harness connector from rear of unit.
      5. Remove trim below steering column switch. Disconnect wiring harness connector (remove foam sleeve from connector if fitted).
      6. Remove hex nut in center of steering wheel. Make matching marks on steering wheel and steering column. Pull steering wheel off steering column.
      CAUTION-
      -The airbag spiral spring on the rear of the steering wheel must be "locked" in its centered position. To do this, hold the wheel in the normally installed position. The with wire on the spiral spring facing downward, turn the connecting ring just until the spiral spring locks in position.
      7. Reinstall steering wheel in reverse order of removal. Use new self-locking bolts to mount airbag to steering wheel. When installing trim, ensure that airbag harness connector sits in recess in trim.
      8. After installing airbag unit and reconnecting airbag electrical connectors, switch ignition on, then reconnect negative battery cable.
      WARNING-
      -DO NOT reconnect the battery cable until airbag and steering wheel installation is complete, including reconnection of harness connectors.
      -the ignition switch must be turned on BEFORE reconnectiing the battery cable.

    19. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:16 PM #144
      Quote, originally posted by ricosuave »
      Bentley technicians online with free assistance!
      http://tech.bentleypublishers....ID=39

    20. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:21 PM #145
      Quote, originally posted by Darrell »
      front bumper:
      1 take off the grill
      2 there should be three 10 mm bolts up top, and i think 5 on the bottom of the bumper. undo those
      3 undo the screws that holds the mud guard and bumper together.
      4 disconnect the lights.
      5 pull it out
      back bumper:
      1 take off the 4 covers with a flat screw driver after u open the trunk and there is a bolt hidden behind each of the covers
      2 undo three bolts under the bumper
      3 there should be 2 metal clips on both end of the bumper under the wheelwell. force the bumper forward, bend the clips so the bumper would slide out.
      fenderbumper must be off)
      1 there's a line of bolts under the hood, un do them all
      2 undo the mud guard under the fender. there are screws every where. just search and distroy! and the side skirts needs to come off as well
      3 there are 2 10mm bolts behind the rebar. get at them with a wench as scoket wont fit
      4 this one is tricky, pull the plastic mud sheild off/away, and there are 2 bolts that mount the fender to the hinge piler.
      5 there should be another both that bolts onto the rocker

    21. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:24 PM #146
      Quote, originally posted by daviddepin »
      The easiest way to remove your tint, and the way i did it. Is with a heatgun. You just need to heat up a corner get a piece up and start peeling. Go real slow and make sure it's hot. Afterwards just clean with ammonia/water solution and your set. If you ripped too fast on parts, you'll have some slight bits of glue. Also just clean that with the ammonia/water, just rub hard. This will also work on the rear window. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    22. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:34 PM #147
      Quote, originally posted by _muppet_ »
      use a guitar string to saw the glass out being careful not to break it, push the string through the old adhesive, it might be easier if you heat it a little, have someone on the other side of the glass pull it back and forth the whole way around the windshield, then clean the old adhesive off, 3m makes kits to put windshields in cars that come with everything you need, buy one of these and re-install the glass in the new hatch

    23. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:39 PM #148
      Quote, originally posted by ryan2425 »
      in regards to the bouncing tach / speedo solution, I'd like to share what I experienced.
      If your speedo bounces and your tach is dead, it's probably just your speedo thats broken. the computer that calibrates the speedo also calibrates the tach. Since it's stuck in a loop calibrating the speedo, it will never try the tach.
      When putting it back together:
      I found the most important thing is to press the white plastic cover down straight.
      Ensure that everything is tight. IE: Make sure the gap between the top and bottom white piece is almost nil. If you still have an unopened engine, make it that tight or tighter.
      Also, the instructions on how to remove your cluster have been moved to here: http://www.s3designs.com/mk3_g....html
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:41 PM #149
      Quote, originally posted by Ed52 »
      You think you have a MAF related problem. Here is a tip from the TDI club.
      Disconnect MAF electrical connector and re-connect it several times. Coat the electrical connector pins with di-electric grease(tune up grease,spark plug grease) and connect.
      What happens on the older cars there is corrosion on the terminals resulting in poor electrical conductivity. By doing the above procedure you are cleaning the pins and preventing further oxidation.
      Also soaking the MAF element in alcohol may solve drivability issues.

    25. Global CSI Moderator
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      08-12-2007 02:44 PM #150
      Quote, originally posted by _muppet_ »
      this is a cheap alternative to buying a mesh grille but it is a lot of work
      what you need:
      hacksaw blade
      body filler
      sandpaper (a few different grits from coarse to fine)
      sandable primer
      paint that matches your car
      clear top coat
      some type of mesh (aluminum gutter mesh works well)
      first take off your grille this is done by taking the 4 screws out of the top of the grille and popping the clips out



      you need to take the grille apart there is a piece on the back of the grille with a bunch of clips on it take it off and pop the emblem out with a screwdriver



      next you need to cut the two bars in the center out this is what the hacksaw blade is for sand the sides and center smooth


      now you are ready for body filler an easy way to put the body filler on is to put it on two pieces of paper and put one on the front of the holes and one on the back



      allow the body filler to dry peel the paper off and sand it smooth your grille should now look like this notice I have cut the the pieces that sat in the bars on the back of the grille


      you are now ready to spray the primer I did four coats


      once the primer has dried you need to sand it smooth you should sand between coats

      you are now ready to paint do a few coats of your color and a few coats of clear


      once the paint has dried you can put your emblem back and cut the mesh mark the mesh with a sharpie and cut it about 1/2'' excess all around

      now set the mesh over the clips and push the clips through if your mesh is thin you wont have a problem re-assembling the grille then re-install
      here is the finished product before and after
      before:

      After:



      have fun

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