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    Thread: FAQ/DIY - How To Use A Clay Bar + Clay Bar Qs&As

    1. Member Dutchmastr9's Avatar
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      07-15-2008 09:08 PM #26
      Quote, originally posted by vr6gti98 »
      i have a clear bra on all of my front bumper and the front of my hood. ive heard others with the clear bra were recommended to wax it but not specific on clay barring.
      i can see how the opposite would make sense. its gonna get grime, dirt, bugs, and everything else being in the front so getting all that off with clay bar would sound right, but to wax it after?

      u can clay a clear bra, i wouldnt wax it because it is not paint and is there to protect ur paint anyway. u just need to be careful around the edges, u dont want to get clay stuck under ur clear bra
      You Aint About That Life | ETYolo

      Ruined Blue Golf | 42 Draft Designs

    2. 07-15-2008 09:56 PM #27
      the edges were my main concern. the bra is old and has collected a nice black edge, mainly the piece on my hood. i guess i will see how it goes this weekend.

    3. 07-15-2008 10:05 PM #28
      Yea can clay the claer bra and you can wax it. Get you a nice, non-staining wax and go to town. It will help it stay nicer longer.
      Clay the edges nice and easy. You don't want it to begin pealing up.

    4. 07-16-2008 12:33 AM #29
      i actually bookmarked this, perfect resource. I think people should get paid commission for useful posts like this! haha

    5. 07-20-2008 12:37 AM #30
      this thread is a great resource. i spent 3 hours today with a clay bar for the first time ever and i am really impressed with the results.

    6. 07-21-2008 01:39 PM #31
      "When claying the whole car, a good rule of thumb is to clay from top to bottom, front to back. I usually do it in this order: roof, hood, rear deck lid, front bumper, front fenders, front doors, rear doors, rear quarters, rear bumper and I finish up with the side skirts/rocker panels since they generally get hit with the most debris."
      My exact process as well. I also feel this is the best order of operations.
      Great writeup 67Customs (what's your name again btw so I don't have to keep using your SN?). This was long overdue.

    7. 07-21-2008 05:51 PM #32
      Quote, originally posted by FliGi7 »
      Great writeup 67Customs (what's your name again btw so I don't have to keep using your SN?). This was long overdue.
      Thanks man. I try. I actually have a few more to post, but I am in the middle of making a new Detailing Forum DIY/FAQ, so I figured I would wait and post them then. Which I think is also lllooonnngggg overdue.
      BTW, my real name is Brody.

    8. Member jtrujillo86's Avatar
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      07-22-2008 12:09 AM #33
      Does using a clay bar remove sap? I have been parking under a tree at work since it's been hella hot up here and the last time I washed my car, I felt tiny sap spots all over, even after power washing.
      Any ideas? (besides never parking under that tree again)
      - Jeremy.
      Quote Originally Posted by BluMagic View Post
      It's a VW; the sensors are as sensitive as women on that time of the month . . . and the dash is as anxious to light up as a stoner.

    9. 07-22-2008 11:15 AM #34
      Clay Bar + Isopropyl Alcohol + Tarminator + Time + Patience.
      You will need ALL of those if the sap is remotely bad. Good luck

    10. Member jtrujillo86's Avatar
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      07-25-2008 02:30 AM #35
      Quote, originally posted by FliGi7 »
      Clay Bar + Isopropyl Alcohol + Tarminator + Time + Patience.
      You will need ALL of those if the sap is remotely bad. Good luck

      Sorry...I'm a little slow -- how much alcohol and tarminator should I use? How do I apply it? To ALL paint, or just on the wax spots?
      Thanks,
      - Jeremy.
      Quote Originally Posted by BluMagic View Post
      It's a VW; the sensors are as sensitive as women on that time of the month . . . and the dash is as anxious to light up as a stoner.

    11. 07-25-2008 02:36 AM #36
      Douse the areas in the alcohol and/or tarminator. They will not hurt the paint at all. They will simply remove any protection (and hopefully the sap) from your paint. So make sure to wax the areas afterward.

    12. 07-26-2008 01:49 AM #37
      Just a quick question do you have to wax after claying im nost sure if I read that or not..
      Thanks,
      Danny

    13. 07-26-2008 02:23 AM #38
      If your paint needs no correction, the yes you can add protection like wax (or sealant).

    14. 07-26-2008 02:27 AM #39
      Quote, originally posted by me »
      If your paint needs no correction, the yes you can add protection like wax (or sealant).

      What do you mean by correction?

    15. 07-26-2008 02:39 AM #40
      Swirls and scratches.

    16. 07-26-2008 02:46 AM #41
      Quote, originally posted by me »
      Swirls and scratches.

      And if I have those what should I do...I know I a few scratches from the wife using an ice scraper on the car...so what I can I do for that?

      I also have waxed the car with these scratches on the car already...is that bad?

    17. Member jtrujillo86's Avatar
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      07-27-2008 12:06 AM #42
      Today I picked up a Maguire's Clay Bar (80 gram, IIRC) and some Zymol wax...and my car looks BEAUTIFUL. I would have snapped some pictures, but I just finished and it's dark outside. It turns out the clay bar removed most of the sap spots and everything else. Though my car is less than a year old and is washed and waxed regularly, the clay bar was DISGUSTING when I was done. I decided just to chuck it.
      Overall I'm really happy with the clay bar method. Every car I've had has been waxed regularly, but this is my first time using clay. I don't think I'll ever wax my car again without claying it first. It was pretty quick and painless, too.
      Anyway, thanks for the advice about the alcohol, even though I didn't use it. I'll keep it in mind if I ever have a bad sap problem again.
      - Jeremy.
      Quote Originally Posted by BluMagic View Post
      It's a VW; the sensors are as sensitive as women on that time of the month . . . and the dash is as anxious to light up as a stoner.

    18. Member jtrujillo86's Avatar
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      07-27-2008 10:27 PM #43
      Can someone clue me in as to what the significance of the weight is? For example, I used an 80 gram bar on my car. Is it better to use a 200 gram bar or say...a 60 gram bar? What's the difference?
      - Jeremy.
      Quote Originally Posted by BluMagic View Post
      It's a VW; the sensors are as sensitive as women on that time of the month . . . and the dash is as anxious to light up as a stoner.

    19. 07-28-2008 12:13 AM #44
      Large weights just refers to a larger size block. If you only clay once a year or two, then you don't need much. But for people who detail often (or more than one car), it's nice to be able to buy a larger block and just break off the amount you need per detailing event.

    20. 07-28-2008 07:26 PM #45
      Also, if you do buy a larger bar, it is good to cut it in half or fourths. That way, if you drop it, you don't waste the whole bar. I also find it easier to work with a smaller bar.

    21. Member VWADDICTDSCR's Avatar
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      04-03-2009 01:48 PM #46
      Just read through this entire post. Thanks to the original poster i'm going to definitely be using this post to get my GTi looking it's best for the spring

    22. 04-03-2009 07:32 PM #47
      Glad to hear people are sill reading it. [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    23. Member CdnCorrado's Avatar
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      04-04-2009 01:29 PM #48
      Excellent post Brody.
      We non-pros appreciate the "detail" (no pun intended) that you pros include in these types of posts. Never be reluctant to state the obvious ...what is obvious to pros like you is often far from obvious for guys like me.
      Thanks
      [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG] [IMG]http://**********************/smile/emthup.gif[/IMG]

    24. 04-05-2009 07:00 PM #49
      No problem Kelly. I'm just happy to help.

    25. Member TheLateGTI's Avatar
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      04-07-2009 10:38 PM #50
      also you can take a plastic bag and run it over the car when your done claying to see if it still has **** on it that you could have missed with clay.
      if you clayed everything then the plastic bag should run over the car as if it were glass and that you cant feel the contaminents

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