Coolant Temperature Sensor Install 24v VR6

[Salzvr6]

Thanks for the post; can somebody PLEASE put this in the DIY FAQ?

Anyway, my 2 cents...

1. Buy a screw-tighten hose clamp.
2. Remove the lower air-dam cover w/the Torx screws.
3. Jack/stand your car. Put a 2 gallon pot under the radiator line.
4. Disconnect the radiator and drain into your pot. Lot less runoff.
5. I didn't remove the battery or anything else. Just disconnected a small vac line and moved some conduit/wiring out of their harnesses.

6. The easiest way to install the clip is to use some long needle-nose pliers and insert the clip into the slots, behind the bracket. It doesn't need to go in very far, just enough to be seated.

7. Using a big Phillips-head screwdriver, go in around the other side of the bracket, and using one of the grooves in the screwdriver, gently press the clip into place.

8. Reconnect the disconnected hose after replacing that idiotic spring-clamp with the screw-hose.

9. Remember to run your heater while filling up the radiator.


Modified by Salzvr6 at 12:58 PM 7-13-2008

[Nittany Lion 90]

I will vouch that the stock coolant sensor WILL fail. It caused my car to wildly buck on in 1st. I had mine replaced last week under my CPO warranty. Without it, the job would have cost around $275! Unfortunately, I am totally clueless about how to fix anything and very apprehensive about trying to.

[quick04gti]

isnt this a recall item it wont cost you anything even if you dont have a warranty

[Emron]

I know it doesn't take long to do at all if you have some super long needle nose pliars.

-Emron

[mj99]

thanks for the great post orange.
I have a p0118/p1381 code and a black top sensor on my 03 jetta gli so it looks like I'll have to replace it too. I called the local vw dealer just to see what they'd charge and was quoted $280, but they also mentioned that aside from the replacement of the sensor there is a wiring fix that's necessary. anybody know what they're talking about? Also, I noticed many people stating that their temp gauge isn't working right, but my gauge seems normal. is a sensor failure always associated with a faulty gauge reading or is it possible to have a bad sensor with normal readings?

thanks.

[apstguy]

I have not heard of a wiring fix. If the sensor fails, it may or may not effect your temp gauge, my gauge was fine but the sensor was bad.

[mj99]

hey all, I'm getting ready to do the cts replacement and I would like to drain some of the coolant first to minimize spillage as suggested. My searches came up short on finding the best way to drain the coolant. I guess I'm looking for a drain plug unless there is a better way to go. Can someone please point me in the right direction?

thanks.
james

[Veedub_junky]

The problem with draining coolant is it's difficult to get the coolant that is above the sensor. You could drain from the crack pipe drain plug (messy) or just let it leak from the sensor housing (messy). I think even with the drain on the crack pipe, you wont get it all and it'll still come out from the sensor. Personally, I'd keep my mess in one place

When I do my crack pipe in a month or so, I'm going to install a second sensor so that when (not if) it goes, I can just move the connector over

[Emron]

in order to dump the coolant from my '81 Chevy, I would remove the lower radiator hose. Perhaps there is something similar to that on our cars.

[Veedub_junky]

There is a drain valve on that lower radiator hose, or you could disconnect the hose, but the crack pipe and t-stat housing will still have coolant - it won't drain everything. Even if you do that, you'll make a mess removing the sensor - you'll just have more fluid to replace

[mj99]

thanks guys.
I don't wanna bother with draining if it's not going to help. I guess I'll just try the quick swap method.

[mj99]

ok, so i just got done replacing the cts. few things I'd like to share from my experience/mistakes.

1. I broke the tab that secures the wiring connector to the sensor. be careful!!! it didn't take much.
2. it took me a few minutes to figure out where in the engine compartment the original post started to locate the sensor. it's in the lower right corner next to the battery.
3. I noticed the leaking started when I removed the allen bolt that secures the bracket.
4. remove the plastic cover behind the driver side head light. I guess it's common sense, but I overlooked it trying to follow the steps in the op.

I noticed the run off of coolant was brown so I think i should flush it completely. I couldn't find it, but if there is a diy for flushing please let me know. Also, should I be concerned about the vibration loosening the connector from the sensor?

thanks to all.

[eurojolf]

doing this tonight

[R32Freddie]

I did this last Sunday. Runs alot better wow!

[seanpeteaf]

I love how my local stealership calls it "lifetime fluid".... maybe if we didn't have crack pipe problems and bad sensor we would make it past 100k miles!

[R32Freddie]

Quote, originally posted by seanpeteaf »

I love how my local stealership calls it "lifetime fluid".... maybe if we didn't have crack pipe problems and bad sensor we would make it past 100k miles!

lol lol lol. Still the best i ever had.

[tehbrosta]

Tip: Use needle nose vice grips to lock the retaining clip, and push it into place. Worked like a charm.

[hockey57]

I used a hemostat. Worked great. I also drained the entire system into a bucket. Made zero mess when pulling the sensor. I drove it for a while and noticed no improvement (in as mpg). Disconnected battery let it reset gained approx. 3mpg, my reason for changing. Drive on

[VR6 Manny]

I just did the sensor on a MY02 BDF 24v Jetta VR6... clips that held in the sensor were very brittle, broke easily... i also lost one in the engine for over an hour (LOL), so be careful. the coolant took a very long time for me to refill after the flush... i had the car running with max heat and it took about an hour to do barely 8.5L

used a 40/60 mix of red g12 & distilled water

also adding, you dont really have to take out as much as everyone has said so far if you have slim hands. i did have to take off the intake shift rod pump and engine cover bracket to work comfortably. also, if you're draining the system, you can disconnect the big hose thats connected to the thermostat housing on the right.

Modified by VR6 Manny at 9:40 PM 9-20-2009

[apstguy]

I don't have small hands but I was able to replace it without removing anything else.

[raykeller]

I have the 12V VR6 in a 2001 GTI GLX, but I found that the part that AutoZone carries ($8.99), made by Duralast is the wrong part. It has a green top like described and the electrical connection fits as well. However it is ever so slightly larger than the right part. I ended up going to the dealer to get the part from them ($30). But it fits.

I also found it useful to use a flat head screwdriver to guide the left (looking rear) side of the clip into the slit. I broke two clips before I tried doing that.

Hope I can save some others the hassles I had! Good thing is AutoZone gave me a $20 gift card for my hassles.

[toscar]

how do you know when iy is failing?

[apstguy]

Your gas mileage will drop drastically, you *might* get temperature gauge fluctuations (I didn't), and you'll get a check engine light for the sensor.

[andras0822]

I am having problems installing the new temp sensor. I am not able to push the new sensor in far enough for the clip to fit in. any sugestions?

[apstguy]

Make sure the old o-ring is all the way out and push the new sensor in hard. The old o-rings have a habit of sticking in the hole.

[Veedub_junky]

Quote, originally posted by apstguy »

Make sure the old o-ring is all the way out and push the new sensor in hard. The old o-rings have a habit of sticking in the hole.

x2 - that's the only reason you should have a problem.

[wav3form]

I have a green top sensor staring at me right now on my desk. I tried to install it in my 12v VR6 last year and I gave up quickly after a few attempts. I'm determined to get it in there (that's what she said) as soon as the weather breaks though and this DIY helps!

I just need some long needle nose pliers or vice grips and I should be good... I'm trying to do this without taking too much stuff apart first.

[CEMAYHALL]

After I replaced the CTS today, I noticed the new one "wiggles" a little bit? Is it supposed to be solid even though it's backed with an o-ring? It doesn't leak coolant (under pressure or when I "wiggle" it) and the check engine light hasn't come back on... So my question is the next time someone takes a look at theirs, can you "wiggle" it and let me know what happens?

Thanks for your help guys and for this DIY!!!
-Chris

[apstguy]

It's new rubber in there, it will be a bit more flexible than the old one. It is normal.

[CEMAYHALL]

Quote, originally posted by apstguy »

It's new rubber in there, it will be a bit more flexible than the old one. It is normal.

Thanks for the reply!

['97Trek2.0]

orange1218 - Any way you could get the pictures back up? I need to do this sometime very soon.

['97Trek2.0]

Great DIY! Thanks for putting this up. This is a very simple fix and can be completed by anyone with even basic wrenching skills.

Couple of lessons learned while I was doing this...

- The retaining clip doesn't take a lot of force to get back into place. If you are having to push really hard, you will break the clip. I broke two. Thank God I bought a few extra!

- Place the o-ring on the sensor prior to putting it back into place. When I put the o-ring in the hole prior to placing the sensor in there, I had problems lining it up and getting the retaining clip in place. If the alignment is even a little off, the retaining clip won't be able to go into place.

- As stated in the DIY, use a 10mm socket and allen wrench to move some of the hoses out of the way. They will only move about an inch out of the way but it makes a HUGE difference.
- A large drain pan will make a big difference in spillage and cleanup time.

[2003gtivr62.8liter]

just did mine and the only hard part was putting the clip back in. otherewise not all that hard.

[pbert03]

Thanks for all the good advice provided in this thread. It really helped make this an effortless fix. I originally went to the stealership for the sensor. They wanted to charge me $51 which included the washer and the clip (yoo hoo). No thanks! I was able to get the sensor from www.idparts.com for $17 (also includes washer and clip).

[am0sk]

'04 Jetta 2.8L

Car temp gauge remains stuck to the left, never moves. Has been this way for months.

I just replaced my water pump and flushed system. Should have replaced sensor before putting in all the new coolant

Anyway, some ppl have mentioned a check engine light or some other indication that they have a bad temp sensor. I do NOT have any lights or indicators saying my sensor is bad.

If I replace my sensor, can I reuse the captured fluid? Should I clamp/drain my overflow tank prior to pulling the old sensor, or does that not matter because most of the drainage will come from the engine anyway?

Also, my sensor was purchased from autozone and I read some ppl have issue with that sensor.