very nice! glad to see you could clear you shifter cables, i couldnt with mine without touching but oh well...
Sorry if this is repetative for some as I have had this running for a little while now. The other thread with my build up was on another site which couldn't be linked so I wanted to bring it over here so people could search it and get some ideas/ pointers from the pics here.
This is just my take a turbo build up, and it was my first time working on this motor. Going back there are some things I would have done differently, but most I would have kept the same. I enjoyed the process tremendously and this gave me a chance to learn alot about my car while giving it the power it should have had from the factory.
Feel free to ask any questions in this thread as I hope new people can learn from it.
Items in hand:
- Garret T3 Turbo
- Internal Wastegate
- Cast 8v Turbo Manifold
- 2" 90' aluminum bend for compressor outlet
- (3) 90' stainless steel bends for downpipe
- mild steel o2 sensor bung
- 1' section of 2.5" stainless .065 tube for downpipe
- (2) 1/2" NPT --> 5/8" Barb fitting for oil drain
- 2.0" --> 2.5" silicon transition coupler
- Full Garret T3 Gasket Kit
- 1/2" NPT Aluminum Bung for oil drain into pan
- Oil feed line
- 45* Oil Feed fitting for T3 turbo
- Oil fitting for Oil Cooler
- Garret 3-bolt wastegate -> downpipe flange
- 2.5" x 6" flex coupling for downpipe
- Forge 007p Diverter Valve
- OEM Intercooler and all piping
- T3 1/2" NPT oil Drain Flange
- (4) Bosch 42# (440cc) "green top" fuel injectors
- Oil Drain Tube
- Silicon Couplers & Remaining Piping
- Autometer Boost Gauge
- Forge Boost Controller
- C2 Software
- MAF Flange
Pictures: These are over time, divided up with the hatch marks.
One issue i had is that my swing valve was designed to use a cast bend that attached to the downpipe. In order for this bend to mount it needed extra long studs. This type of swing valve is somewhat common amongst OEM turbo's such as those found on Saab, Ford and Pontiacs. The volvo turbos have a different type of swingvalve that has a raised lip and will also cause issues if trying to mate up a standard 3-bolt downpipe from someone like ATP, or Kinetic.
This left me with 2 long studs and one short stud extending from the swing valve. Unfortunately they are not threaded all the way down and thus don't allow the downpipe flange to mate up.
In the past I have used a torch and some heat to expand the surrounding area which would allow the stud to come free. For some reason heat was not doing the trick this time and I don't have another swing valve around.
The solution was to cut the existing studs down and re-tap them to match the other stud using a m8 x 1.25 die. Here you can see all the studs cut down, one is already threaded using the die and one stud is left unthreaded.
The engine bay with only the intake removed
Engine bay with cover off, intake pipe out and the rain tray removed for access. I would recommend removing the rain tray to anyone with a beetle who needs to do any work in this area as it definitely clears up a lot of space.
Upper intake manifold removed and lower taped over to keep anything from falling down the runners. Be careful when removing the manifold as I snapped my diptick tube. I am actually surprised it lasted this long anyway so no biggie.
The exhaust manifold heat shield. You can also see the EGR valve sitting at the top right hand corner. Coming out of this you can see the pipe which runs to the exhaust manifold itself. This is not hard to remove, but takes some twisting to get the heat shield off around the pipe.
And the infamous AEG exhaust manifold.
OEM fuel injectors with vacuum bar. The bar and vacuum line above the injectors runs to the intake pipe above halfway before the throttle body. As I have been told, the idea behind this vacuum bar is cool air is drawn in and circulated around the base of the injectors. This air helps in atomization and distribution of the fuel. All I know is it will not be reused for my new injectors and will probably be filed away in the proper receptacle.
Again, make sure you tape up any open holes going into the head. Last thing you want to do is drop a bolt into the head and need to fish it out, or worse have to remove the head just to get a bolt.
Here you can see the fitting for the oil cooler mounted and awaiting the oil feed line. There is a plug on top of the oil cooler with a 5mm allen socket in it. once this is removed you can simply attach the oil feed line and you should recieve constant oil pressure to the turbo
These two pictures should give you a better sense of where the oil feed fitting and line are mounted and ran. I have the air pump removed for these pictures but you can see the airpump bracket off to the right hand side of the image.
Here you can see the intercooler and the pancake pipe. The pancake pipe was mounted up using a pre-existing stud that sits slightly farther back on the frame rail then the last push clip for the side splash guard. All I needed to do was find a nut that fit on the stud and the pipe mounted right up. You can also see the intercooler mounted inside of the fender. It is a tight fit behind the washer fluid tank, but there was a pre-existing and threaded hole in the sheetmetal extending off the side of the frame rail. I just found a bolt that fit the threads and the intercooler was mounted. I can imagine this is the general area that any 1.8T also has their mounts for the intercooler.
Here is a top view of how my piping runs from the intercooler back into the engine bay. This is an OEM intercooler to Throttle Body pipe off a 1.8T new beetle. By rotating the pipe slightly towards the front of the car, the pipe runs right up along the back edge of fan shroud and sits at a perfect parallel to the ground.
When removing the exhaust manifold it is easiest to do it in two pieces. Besides the 8 studs that hold the manifold to the back of the head, there are 6 larger studs/ bolts that hold the upper manifold to the lower (downpipe). These are 17mm and are somewhat tricky to get to due to the subframe, sway bar, and axle getting in the way. My solution was to use a 12" extension on a 3/8" drive and an extension / prybar for the socket handle. This kept the socket small enough to fit through the tight fits, yet long enough to extend below the subframe. You will most likely need the prybar to get the leverage as they were on their real good.
Again, the aeg+ exhaust manifold. There is very little need to upgrade this on a Naturally aspirated car as it flows very well. This is the reason many aba (mk3) owners purchase these second hand and retrofit them to their motors to replace the case unit they have.
A pic of the lower downpipe from above.
The Secondary Air Injection system pumps fresh air into the back of the head using these small little ports (arrow) that flow down to the exhaust valve. If you were to just remove the system and not plug or cover the holes, you would have an exhaust leak through all the little ports.
My solution was to thread the ports using a 10/16 - 18 tap. I then used matching sets screws that I picked up at sears hardware. With a little anti-sieze these make a perfect, non permanant, solution to sealing up the ports on the back of the head.
Here you can sorta see the plug in the port. The shiny part around the plug is just were it was whiped clean, not anti sieze or anything else.
There it is ... Just mocking up the manifold and turbo to make sure I didn't need to massage the firewall or anything else before I continued with the install.
In this pic you can see the 90' hose on the right that extends from the compressor housing of the turbo. On the left hand side towards the bottom is the inlet for the pancake pipe. As you can see it is almost a direct shot from the 90' to the pancake pipe. I used a 2" diameter 90* bend which is a direct shot from the silicon hose into the pancake pipe.
440cc Bosch "Green Top" injectors courtesy of ford motorsports and some Mustang that is now short 4 injectors. These will hold up for all the boost I can throw at it in the future as I continue to upgrade.
Here you can see how the outlet hose wraps around the turbo inlet and then drops straight down towards the ground where it meets up with the pancake pipe. This shot is kinda at an angle but you can get the general idea.
Another picture of the intake hose. The intake will be another 90' going into this hose and will run just along the bottom of the rain tray.
1/2" NPT aluminum bung welded to oil pain for my oil return fitting.
Boost pipe. This is the pipe that runs from the upper intercooler hose, along the front of the engine, and then wraps around and into the throttle body. In this pic it does not have the maf flange or the ports for the diverter.
Here are some pictures that show the boost pipes and how I chose to route them for this application.
Pics of the downpipe.
As promised, here are some pics of the set-up all polished up (except for my greasy hand prints) and with the maf and diverter installed.
Modified by bugasm99 at 9:43 PM 9-5-2007
i have a completely custom turbo setup so it put it a lil close and i think the jetta firewall setup is a lil diff from yours
DONT PM THIS ACCOUNT!! I RARELY CHECK IT!
IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS/CONCERNS/ISSUESWITHZOMBIES PLEASE IM MY OTHER ACCOUNT BELOW:
Quote, originally posted by pwnt by pat » nice. Are those the AEG injectors that are the same height as the green tops? Still have 'em laying around, maybe?
Still have the AEG injectors floating around, but they are slightly shorter then a green top. I had to use washers as spacers under the fuel rail. Not by much though, maybe 2.5 mm.
Quote, originally posted by vasillalov » Very very nice! Your engine will appreciate a new valve cover gasket!
haha, its getting one soon when I paint the valve cover. All the oil is actually from the seal below my filler/pcv combo. I need to replace both the gaskets under the combo and under the cap.
bump .. i updated the first post to take out the build junk and get to the point.
Also, the extra torque has destroyed my trans mount and my downpipe is now tapping on the heat shield around the steering rack as the engine rocks. I ordered up the BFI mount inserts so i'll see if this helps out at all.
Next paycheck I will be ordering up a head spacer and hopefully a AT 270* cam with springs. hoping to get some more out of the top end.
Quote, originally posted by vdubbugman53 » do you have a flex pipe in your set up at all? the 270 is not to big for boost?
yes I do have a flex pipe in my downpipe. The issue is not with the engine rocking forward and backward, but it actually shifts side to side as well with the blown trans mount. Soooo, when making a right hand turn under acceleration, the engine will slide to the left and rack backwards. This allows the downpipe to tape on the shield and bolt right over the steering rack.
as for the 270* cam. It is actually a really good cam for boost as it is high lift and low overlap. This allows a lot of air in and out without allowing your boost pressure to just exit right out the exhaust valves on overlap.
Quote, originally posted by vdubbugman53 » tttuning. com has HD valve springs for 110 and the upper retainers for 50 making it 160 for all you need]
Not true, you need the lower spring seats for the HD springs as well.
Girls love it when you come in 3 seconds, it's very European.
you should replace the lifters whenever you change cam shafts as they wear together.
The autotech cam has high lift. You can still use single springs, although you'll probably run in to spring binding issues. So, yes, you should change to heavy duty springs.
edit: do you mean with the autotech spring kit? It comes with everything but the lifters. For the price of the AT kit, you could get lifers too at TT
Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:10 PM 9-6-2007
hence the reason many people just do a full head build up and drop it on, rather then trying to upgrade one part at a time.
... if you like pulling your head apart every 10k miles to reshim your head.
give Jose at porttuning a call. He's working on my head now. He got me the whole shebang, ti retainers, hd springs, and lifters, for around 275.
Sorry for the threadjack. Think of it this way, when you want to do it yourself, bugasam, you'll know where to go and what to do
Modified by pwnt by pat at 1:42 PM 9-6-2007
Nice!!! I'm loving it. I wish I could just drive to your house and help me with some of the work I want done to my car. I don't know how to do any of it.
My old 2.0t build
Current VRT build thread