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    Thread: FAQ : Cylinder Head & Camshaft Removal + Re-Installation

    1. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      09-04-2007 06:19 AM #1
      Was sent this so I am sharing it with the community as this seems to be the most confusing topic when doing a 20V Rebuild.Thanks to whoever did it up

      Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

      CAUTION
      Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold
      .
      1.8L Engine
      1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
      2. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Front bumper
      3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position.
      4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
      5. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Negative battery cable
      * Accessory drive belt
      * Cooling fan
      6. Drain the engine coolant.
      7. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Intake manifold
      * Accessory drive belts
      * Wastegate bypass regulator valve
      * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve
      * Power outage stage
      * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor
      * Air cleaner housing
      * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector
      * All connections from the cylinder head
      * Crankcase breather line
      * Oil supply line at the cylinder head
      * Exhaust manifold heat shield
      * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold
      * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head
      * Upper timing belt cover
      8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.
      9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner.
      10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear.
      11. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward
      * Valve cover

      * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown
      * Cylinder head
      12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces.
      13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.

      To install:

      NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings.

      NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart.


      14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder.
      15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head.
      16. Install or connect the following:
      * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side
      * Cylinder head
      * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand
      17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps:
      Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm)
      Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn
      NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts.

      18. Install or connect the following:
      * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm).
      * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm).
      * Valve cover
      * Timing belt
      * Accessory drive belts
      * Exhaust manifold heat shield
      * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm).
      * Crankcase breather
      * Any other items removed during disassembly
      * Coolant temperature sensors
      * Air cleaner housing
      19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary.
      20. Connect the negative battery cable.
      21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function.
      22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary.
      23. Set the clock to the correct time.

      NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached.

      24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary.
      25. Install or connect the following:
      * Hood lock carrier assembly
      * Front bumper
      26. Adjust the headlights.

      Quote, originally posted by CAMSHAFT REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

      1.8L Engine
      Fig. 1: Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related components — 1.8L engine

      1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
      2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
      3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
      4. Place the lock carrier into the service position.
      5. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Accessory drive belts
      * Engine covers
      * Timing belt upper cover
      6. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
      7. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Timing belt tensioner by loosening it using Torx® wrench T45
      * Belt from the camshaft gear by pushing the tensioner downward
      * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward
      * Valve cover
      * Cam gear retaining bolt by loosening it using retainer tool 3036
      * Camshaft gear
      * Camshaft Position (CMP) housing sensor and shutter wheel
      * Hydraulic chain tensioner by securing it with bracket tensioner tool 3366

      Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L

      8. Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps.
      9. Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint.

      NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller.

      Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L

      Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine

      10. Remove or disconnect the following:
      * Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts
      * Double bearing cap
      * Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts
      * Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts
      * Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence
      * Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner

      To install:

      Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L

      11. Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown.
      12. Install or connect the following:
      * Drive chain on the camshaft

      NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers.
      * Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain
      * Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head
      NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head.
      * Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
      * Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
      13. Verify the correct positions of the camshafts.
      14. Remove the bracket tensioner.
      15. Install or connect the following:
      * Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
      * Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
      * CMP shutter wheel and housing cover
      * Valve cover
      16. Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings.
      17. Install or connect the following:
      * Timing belt
      * Accessory drive belts and the engine cover
      * Lock carrier
      * Negative battery cable
      18. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function

      CAUTION
      After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

      19. Check the oil level before starting the engine.
      20. Set the clock to the correct time.
      21. Enter the radio security code.

      NOTE: DTCs may be stored when harness connectors are detached.

      22. Read the DTCs and clear the fault codes.
      23. Adjust the headlights.

      Enjoy


    2. Member 16plus4v's Avatar
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      Now: '15 GTI Then: '12 GTI, '04 GLI, '00 A4 BT, '95 MK3 BT, 3 other MK3's, '91 GTI, '90 Rado
      09-04-2007 07:39 AM #2
      Someone stop this man, he's out of control
      2015 GTI Autobahn - White

    3. 10-30-2007 01:04 PM #3
      Outstanding tech article! I've encountered a 1.8L that needs the head removed, I've taken all of the apropreiate hardware and connections off, but the head still acts as if its bolted down. The engine has 181,000 miles. Could we be missing any bolts or brakets in addition to the ones listed? Any help would be greatful.

    4. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      91 Audi 80 2.0T
      10-30-2007 02:37 PM #4
      Quote, originally posted by dubm0nkey »
      Outstanding tech article! I've encountered a 1.8L that needs the head removed, I've taken all of the apropreiate hardware and connections off, but the head still acts as if its bolted down. The engine has 181,000 miles. Could we be missing any bolts or brakets in addition to the ones listed? Any help would be greatful.

      Its just "stuck" thats all.Once you remove the 10 head bolts and the connecting manifold to downpipe bolts the head should come right off.Just give it a good nudge.

    5. Member wreckedmyteg's Avatar
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      N54 135i
      10-30-2007 03:22 PM #5
      CAUTION
      After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

      I'm curious what the 30 minutes is for?


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      10-30-2007 03:29 PM #6
      Quote, originally posted by wreckedmyteg »
      CAUTION
      After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

      I'm curious what the 30 minutes is for?

      It is for the hydraulic lifters to bleed down. When new, they can hold the valves open. While the warning is worthwhile, it is kind of moot for a 1.8T since it would be damn near impossible to finish assembly and start the car in 30 minutes.


      Modified by bobqzzi at 4:19 PM 10-30-2007

      Performance and replacement parts, engine building www.qedpower.com

      bobqzzi@cox.net

    7. 10-30-2007 03:48 PM #7
      Quote, originally posted by bobqzzi »

      It is for the hydraulic lifters to bleed down. When new, tehy can hold the valves open. While the warning is worthwhile, it is kind of moot for a 1.8T since it would be damn near impossible to finish assembly and start eh car in 30 minutes.

      I thought you could do that in 5minutes Bob BLINDFOLDED


    8. Member turbo2205's Avatar
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      '03 jti 1.8t
      05-09-2008 09:44 PM #8
      i think this might come in handy for some work i'm gonna be doing on my own 1.8 pretty soon; thanks!

    9. 05-09-2008 10:48 PM #9
      MUCH OBLIGED!!
      MK4 Junker : PAG 50trim Kit : AEB : RMR : Eurodyne
      P.P.T. - Pag Parts Turbo
      B6 A4 : Slow

    10. 05-10-2008 03:50 AM #10
      we need a tech article for swapping rods...



    11. Member WhiteG60's Avatar
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      1980 VW Scirocco, 2004 Audi A6 S-Line 2.7T
      05-10-2008 09:34 AM #11
      Anyone have a picture of their cams installed from the back of the gears? I need to see the keyways. Awesome Cat Cams have no marks on them for timing.

    12. Former Advertiser
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      05-10-2008 11:25 AM #12
      Intake Cam

    13. Member WhiteG60's Avatar
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      05-10-2008 01:23 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by DonR@Unitronic.ca »
      Intake Cam

      thank you donato! Exhaust cam i can line up on the valve cover.


    14. 05-10-2008 05:35 PM #14
      Great Writeup...Luckly I had a bentley to help me along the way for some replacement camshaft seals and tensioner gasket. Bump for some good info!!!

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      05-10-2008 10:25 PM #15
      Quote, originally posted by WhiteG60 »

      thank you donato! Exhaust cam i can line up on the valve cover.


    16. 05-12-2008 12:51 AM #16
      good write up...now if someone can do one with the timing belt just as good...with pics as well

    17. Member prom king's Avatar
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      02-10-2009 10:48 AM #17
      Couple of questions I'm in the process's of switching an ATW head with an AEB

      Just drilled the hole for the SAI.

      Now, I need to change the Cam window and sprocket from the AEB head to the original ATW correct?

      And does anyone have a pic? or the Cam sensor window im supossed to use because I can't tell which one is which now ;-/


    18. 02-10-2009 11:15 AM #18

      That's a 4 window VCT wheel. If you're using a VCT ECU, you want the VCT wheel. The wheel is bolted to the end of the intake camshaft, behind the position sensor.


    19. Member prom king's Avatar
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      02-10-2009 01:16 PM #19
      Thank you!

      Also, I just drilled the hole for the SAI, should I find a channel or something when I drill? Or it's just me drilling a hole?

      Converting AEB head to work with an ATW block


    20. 02-10-2009 02:27 PM #20
      Quote, originally posted by 97jazzgti »
      Thank you!

      Also, I just drilled the hole for the SAI, should I find a channel or something when I drill? Or it's just me drilling a hole?

      Converting AEB head to work with an ATW block

      You should be very careful when doing this. You could drill into an adjacent water channel. Very small clearances there. I almost ruined an AEB head this way. Just measure and measure and measure first and before you drill measure again. Or take it to a machine shop


    21. 02-13-2009 09:02 AM #21
      What is the tool needed to take the 10 head bolts out? Looks like a torx, But it will need to be longer. Is it a special tool? Can I make something work?

    22. 02-13-2009 09:15 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by hornetracer8 »
      What is the tool needed to take the 10 head bolts out? Looks like a torx, But it will need to be longer. Is it a special tool? Can I make something work?

      It's called a polydrive. You can use an allen for removal if you have one long enough, but need the right tool for reinstallation.


    23. 02-13-2009 09:22 AM #23
      Is there a part number or a certain size? Where can i get one?

    24. 02-13-2009 09:25 AM #24
      Metalnerd (about 3/4 down the page)

    25. 02-13-2009 09:29 AM #25
      Thank you!

    26. 02-13-2009 12:26 PM #26
      Part MN3452 - Head Bolt Bit for 1.8T ® and 2.0 Gas Engines

    27. 07-28-2009 02:41 PM #27
      Hi... Great post...

      hey forgive me to be suck ignorant, but what its the size need it of the Torx T45 to remove the head bolts i'm kind of new in VW mechanic, i have like a year with my car and i always pay to get it fixed when it goes bad, but now i want to do it by myself, i have a problem with a valve in the cylinder 1 thats why im trying to remove the cylinder head...

      my car its a 1991 VW JETTA GLI 2.0 16V TURBO.

      probably you can help me too, to tell me exactly what to do...

      thanx alot...

      cheers*


    28. Member IAmTheNacho's Avatar
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      07-28-2009 04:55 PM #28
      Quote, originally posted by mk2_eurosport »
      Hi... Great post...

      hey forgive me to be suck ignorant, but what its the size need it of the Torx T45 to remove the head bolts i'm kind of new in VW mechanic, i have like a year with my car and i always pay to get it fixed when it goes bad, but now i want to do it by myself, i have a problem with a valve in the cylinder 1 thats why im trying to remove the cylinder head...

      my car its a 1991 VW JETTA GLI 2.0 16V TURBO.

      probably you can help me too, to tell me exactly what to do...

      thanx alot...

      cheers*

      Its not a torques bit its called a pollydrive, Crappy pic but if you look it has square splines and 6 points. I belive the allen wrench is an 8 or 10MM to remove head bolts.
      Quote Originally Posted by VDub Dan-O View Post
      I am in the process of going FrankenTurbo and pretty much got my dick slapped because I wasn't thinking BT.

    29. 07-29-2009 09:41 AM #29
      Hey thanx...

      but i think that probably doesn't work, because the number of points that have the head bolts they are 12points, i knew that the one that i need its 12 points, but i dont know the size, i think they came in, 12mm, 14mm and 18mm, or something like that, and i wanna know wich one will work on my car...

      1991 VW JETTA GLI 16V 2.0 MK2


    30. 08-04-2009 06:30 PM #30
      Hey... i already get the right tool

      was the Torch 12 points, 12mm...

      but now i have a question...

      when i remove the cylinder head, to put it back i need to change the head gaskets , cuz they weren't too used, or if i need to, i need to put 2 or 3 to low the compression for the turbo, can i put 1 new and the other 2 used, cuz right now im not very good at money, and i need to save all money that i can, i dont want to have my car wrecked again soon...


    31. Member halchka99's Avatar
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      Evo IX MR: 1991 VW GTi 1.8T 20V: Mk6 GLI
      08-04-2009 06:32 PM #31
      get a new one and just run 1
      For Sale: SEM driver box.

    32. 08-04-2009 07:43 PM #32
      and stay away from victor reinz, run an Erling or OEM.

    33. 08-04-2009 08:52 PM #33
      Awesome thread! Can't believe I missed the initial post, when it was made.
      Quote Originally Posted by Travy View Post
      error404: Stance not found.

    34. Member Issam Abed's Avatar
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      08-16-2009 01:59 PM #34
      Quote, originally posted by BoostinBejan »
      and stay away from victor reinz, run an Erling or OEM.

      Running Victor Reinz gaskets for 8+ years now no issues

    35. 08-16-2009 02:17 PM #35
      Quote, originally posted by Issam Abed »

      Running Victor Reinz gaskets for 8+ years now no issues

      I had a victor reinz head gasket leak from the back, properly torqued and I decked both my head and block. Once I switched to an erling, I never had a problem again. There are many others that have had this problem with VR.


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