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    Thread: Audi TT FAQ

    1. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      09-14-2007 01:52 PM #1
      Audi TT FAQ – updated 3/9/2013

      - Built in Gyor, Hungary
      - Color options varied throughout the production run, paint codes are shared with other Audis (see AW Paint Code list)
      - Originally shown as a concept in 1995, production based on VW a4 chassis, TT had highest-spec parts of platform
      - Fit, finish, and quality got better through production, with later cars being less problematic

      Specifications

      Body
      Length: 159.1in
      Width: 73.1in
      Height: 53in
      Wheelbase: FWD - 95.4in, quattro - 95.6in
      Curb weight (coupe, roadster): FWD (2910lbs, 3054lbs), quattro (3208lbs, 3358lbs), 3.2 (3351lbs, 3500lbs)
      Weight distribution: FWD, 3.2 (62/38), quattro (60/40)
      Fuel capacity: FWD - 14.5gal, quattro - 16.4gal
      Brakes (F/R): FWD (12.3"/9.1", solid), 180q (12.3"/9.4", vented front/solid rear), 225 (12.3"/10.1" vented), 3.2 (12.3"/10.1", 4-piston front calipers, vented)

      Engines
      1.8T (108.6ci), 06A block, Borg-Warner turbos
      US engine codes: ATC, AWP, AMU, BEA
      Bore x stroke: 81mm x 86.4mm (3.19in x 3.40in)
      Comp. ratio: 9.5:1 (180hp), 8.9:1 (225hp)
      Firing order: 1-3-4-2
      Oil capacity: 4.5qts (4L)
      Coolant capacity: 7.4qts (7L)

      3.2L (194.6ci), 15° VR6
      US engine code: BHE
      Bore x stroke: 84.0mm x 95.9mm (3.31in x 3.78in)
      Comp. ratio: 11.3:1 (250hp)
      Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
      Oil capacity: 5.8qts (5.5L)
      Coolant capacity: 11.6qts (11L)

      Mk1 TT production (worldwide build numbers):

      1999: 52,579 (Coupe 44,022, Roadster 8,557)
      *Europe only

      2000: 56,776 (Coupe 31,064, Roadster 25,712)
      - TT initially released in USA as 180hp 5spd quattro, though one or two other types of TTs may have gotten in
      - - - Three original option packs: Comfort: heated seats, Audio: Bose sound system, and Performance: 17inch alloys and xenon headlights
      - Neiman Marcus Special Edition released in company's yearly holiday catalog
      - - - Nimbus Grey exterior + Moccasin Red interior
      - - - 180FWD with 02J 5spd manual

      2001: 39,349 (Coupe 22,078, Roadster 17,271)
      - 225bhp quattro edition w/ 02M 6spd manual released, 18" wheels optional
      - Roadster released. A rare, optional hardtop was available in Europe, they pop up for sale online from time to time but are expensive
      - Baseball-stitched leather option, roadster only
      - FWD/quattro available on 180bhp coupe model
      - 180 roadster FWD-only
      - ESP becomes standard, ducktail spoiler added, new steering bushings installed, and alignment changed
      - Comfort and performance packages combined into premium package, subwoofer only available on roadster
      - GPS audio navigation optional

      2002: 34,711 (Coupe 21,488, Roadster 13,223)
      - Standard audio system becomes a CD player instead of cassette player
      - 180 switches to wideband 02 and VVT (ATC to AWP engine code)
      - 225 ALMS special edition released to commemorate Audi's victory in the ALMS series and Le Mans:
      - - - 18 inch Audi 9-spoke RS wheels
      - - - Misano Red exterior + Silver Nappa interior, or Avus Silver Pearl exterior + Brilliant Red Nappa interior
      - - - The interior consisted of matching leather door cards, knee bolsters, seats, steering wheel rim, and shiftknob leather

      2003: 32,337 (Coupe 20,807, Roadster 11,530)
      - 225 switches to wideband 02 and VVT (AMU to BEA engine code)
      - 180 becomes auto-only

      2004: 23,605 (Coupe 14,753, Roadster 8,852)
      - 3.2 VR6 released, coupe or roadster, only available with DSG and quattro
      --- standard S-Line app. package: lower front bumper w/oil cooler duct, a rear ducktail extension, and an eggcrate exhaust valence
      --- first production car with a dual-clutch transmission

      2005: 12,307 (Coupe 8,368, Roadster 3,939)
      - 3.2, 225, and 180 auto
      - Last year of mk1 production in Europe
      - - - 240hp Quattro Sport edition released in UK, ~800 sold, available in several two-tones with a black roof
      - - - 16psi K04, S-Line app. pack, 1pc seats, rear seat delete, 165lbs lighter than 225

      2006: 23,675 (Coupe 21,461, Roadster 2,214)
      - 3.2, 225, and 180 auto
      - 3.2TT SE (special edition) released in US, available in two-tone with a black roof
      - Mk2 TT released in Europe

      General Information

      Helpful TT acronyms and part names

      VAG - Volkswagen Aktiengesellschaft
      180q - 180hp quattro model
      225 - 225hp quattro model (225TT had quattro as standard)
      02J - FWD 5spd manual transmission, shared with various 1.8T a4 chassis cars (mk4 VW, etc.)
      02Y - AWD transmission used for the 5spd 180q
      02M - AWD transmission used for the 6spd 225TT
      BT - big turbo kit
      SMIC - side-mount intercooler, 180TT has one on passenger side, 225TT has two on both sides
      TIP - turbo inlet pipe
      710N - diverter valve, recirculates vented boost back into intake (TIP), OEM N revision is stronger than 710
      ARB - anti-roll bar (also called a sway bar)
      FPR - fuel pressure regulator
      N75 - solenoid that controls boost, VAG made several versions
      N249 - solenoid that regulates the DV
      EVAP - evaporative emissions system (N80 solenoid, carbon canister, ribbed blue tank, hoses)
      SAI - secondary-air injection (pump, hoses, kombi, N112 solenoid) - used to ignite cats at cold start-up for emissions control

      What different basic submodels were available?

      - 180hp FWD model (1.8l engine with k03s turbo, 11psi; overall drivetrain shared with mk4 VW)
      - 180hp quattro model (1.8l engine with k03s turbo, 5spd, and Haldex AWD)
      - 225hp quattro model (1.8l engine with k04-022 turbo, 14psi, 6spd, and Haldex AWD)
      - 250hp quattro model (3.2l VR6, 6spd DSG, and Haldex AWD)

      The 180 and 3.2 were automatic, the 180q/225q were manual only. The 225 has a k04-02x turbo (instead of the 180’s k03/k03s); to support the bigger turbo, it has two side-mount intercoolers (rather than one), bigger fuel injectors, a dual-outlet exhaust, 20mm wrist pin connecting rods, and 8.9:1 comp instead of 9.5:1. The 3.2 had its battery in the trunk and came with no spare.

      How can I identify a TT?

      Quattros will have a driveshaft and rear diff + halfshafts. The 225 was only a 6-speed manual, whereas the 180 quattro was a 5-speed. The 225 came with a dual-outlet exhaust, but it's not a good idea to use this as a distinction criterion, since it's so common for people to put aftermarket exhausts on their car. The 225's intake manifold has its throttle body on the driver's side, and also has a charge pipe on the passenger side of the engine cover (easily seen under the hood) that leads to the passenger side intercooler.

      What is special about the 3.2?

      The 3.2TT, with its 24v VR6, was released in 2004, was only available with the DSG (direct-shift gearbox) and was the first production dual-clutch transmission. Visually, the 3.2 had a different front bumper cover, black ducktail and exhaust valence, paddle shifters, and a gear indicator. The 3.2 engine is about 150lbs heavier than a 1.8T, it has slightly different suspension settings, 4-piston front calipers, a unique exhaust system, and the battery takes the place of the spare tire in the trunk.

      How does the TTq AWD system compare to other VAG cars?

      The TTq, like the A3 and Volkswagen R32, uses an AWD system manufactured by the Swedish company Haldex, rather than the traditional TorSen (torque-sensing) quattro system used in other Audi models. The Haldex is an electronic center diff that uses a slave shaft off the rear of the transverse gearbox to control how much power the rear differential uses. The system is mostly FWD until sensors throughout determine that power needs to be sent to the rear, which, in stock form, happens with hard acceleration or loss of traction. The Haldex system averages about 80% front / 20% rear distribution, and it can never go beyond a 50/50 split because the front half-shafts are permanently powered. Stock Haldex service interval should be 30k, with trans and rear diff fluid at 60k.

      If you want a more constant 50/50 power distribution, you can purchase a Haldex Performance controller. This swap will allow more power to go to the rear in many more conditions. There are two replacement controllers in the form of either a Blue or Orange controller; with the Blue controller, more power is sent to the rear wheels earlier, but the controller unlocks once the gas is released, or if the clutch or brake pedals are pressed. The more expensive Orange controller, however, stays locked at all times. What this all means is that the Blue is good for improved street driving because of a more neutral power distribution, whereas the Orange is more track-oriented because a locked AWD system is always applying power, which allows drivetrain braking but takes away a safety net on the street. See my Haldex Blue thread.

      → If you install a new Haldex controller, lower the fluid change interval to 25,000 miles for the Blue and 20,000 miles for the Orange, depending on how hard you drive.

      Buying a used mk1 TT

      There are a few things one needs to look for when buying a mk1 TT. The most important thing is to check as to whether or not the timing belt has been serviced. The factory service interval is stated as being 100,000 miles, but it is well-known that the 1.8T's timing setup is THE major weak point of the engine (specifically the hydraulic tensioner), and that it should be changed by about 60,000 miles; original plastic waterpumps also were known to fail. If you are looking into buying a TT with less than 60,000 miles get the belt setup serviced, otherwise its nice to get it done if higher in mileage and service records are unknown. The reason replacing the timing setup is so important is because the 1.8T is an interference engine and if the tensioner fails you can expect to need a rebuilt head or engine. It will cost about $300 DIY or $900 at a shop for a timing belt job, but in either case that is cheaper than a new engine.

      Other small problems persist in mk1 TTs, though generally 2000-2002 are more finicky than the 2003-2006 model years. The glovebox latch is problematic, as they can get stuck because the mechanism fails, or the entire latch can simply pop off. The fixes are pretty easy (such as using a nail for a latch axle). The manual transmissions can have some grinding issues but they are almost always solved with new fluid and realignment of the shifter cables. The DSG has its own reputation, but the majority of issues come from early DSGs, and they can also be flashed to improve performance.

      Another issue is rust on the two roof strips, but not the actual roof, which is part of the double-galvanized unibody; taking care of the rust only requires removal of the roof strips and a respray. Finally, other common problems are squeaky suspension bits or interior panels; if you hear a strange creak when you hit a bump, you probably need new bushings, and squeaky panels can be quieted with sound deadener.

      Various things to check when looking at a used TT coupe or roadster
      - Driver seat left bolster for excessive wear
      - Under the front and rear bumper for damage from curb stops
      - Door sills for damage from people climbing in and out of car
      - Speaker grills and bottom of door card for same damage
      - Correct function of windows, lights, blinkers, hatch/gas release, locks
      - Missing lines on gauge info display, correct gauge function, etc
      - Correct function of the radio, all speakers and 6 disc changer
      - Working glove box latch, functional softtop
      - Complete toolkit and spare tire parts
      - Solid hoses/connections in engine bay
      - Condition of the battery in the spare well on a 3.2

      Modifications

      How do I maximize my TT’s powertrain?

      Performance chips will significantly increase your horsepower and torque. They do this primarily by advancing engine timing, adjusting air/fuel ratios, and, in turbocharged vehicles, increasing boost beyond factory limits. The major tuners are APR, REVO, GIAC, Unitronic, and Eurodyne; with all of these companies you can expect to pay around $500 for a flashtune. If you plan on chipping your car and sticking to bolt-ons, the best mods to consider include a turbo-back exhaust, a TIP, a FMIC, and a nice boost controller. You will need 1-step colder plugs gapped to .028, and should at least have a boost gauge. Some other things to consider are a new diverter valve, a catch can, vacuum hose cleanup, and improved bushings and mounts.

      Should I get an aftermarket suspension and brakes?

      Good basic mods are the Haldex upgrade, a rear swaybar, and a different alignment. Beyond that, you get into the springs/struts or coilover debate. Coilovers will make a world of difference, but usually cost more and tend to ride lower. Springs and struts can work well, especially when they are made to work together (example: Eibach Pro System), but they don’t ride as low, and offer no adjustability. A good quattro suspension discussion is Let's talk TT suspension or just search for others. Along with suspension, many people also use spacers; use the AudiWorld offset/spacer calculator to figure out what you need.

      Upgraded brakes will never hurt, especially if you are going to add power and drive your TT hard. You can buy a simple brake upgrade from one of many companies, use the better 3.2 front brakes, or even piece together a Porsche Boxster Brembo front caliper upgrade. I recommend SS lines, but the OEM brake fluid is DOT4 so it is good unless you plan to track the car. Pad selection (along with fluid) depends on how and where you drive your car.

      What should I consider if I want a bigger turbo in my 1.8T?

      If you have a 180, you could get a K04-001, which will bolt right up but not really increase performance; it is only about +20hp over a K03, and +5hp over a K03s. The K04-02x from the 225TT can make decently more hp than the 001, but IS NOT A BOLT ON, as it requires a new manifold, injectors, MAF housing and software. Either TT can use an Eliminator kit, where something like a GT28RS has an 02x turbine flange, but in reality a little more money can buy a proper BT manifold. With a BT you will NEED new rods because the stockers cannot handle the increased torque.

      The bottom line is that if you want the engine to make a significant amount of hp over stock, you need to rebuild it; during the rebuild you can also look into things like bigport heads, better manifolds, and other more trick parts. Something else that has become popular recently is increasing displacement, the stock 81mm bore/86.4mm stroke leaves quite a bit on the table, as it is very easy and relatively cheap to build a stroker (83mm/92.8mm, or 83mm/95.5mm). The bigger engine gives you better off-boost driveabilty and power, and also spools a turbo faster than a 1.8 would.

      You should also only expect the maximum performance from the set-up with a dyno tune, although companies make BT tunes you will be giving up power and driveability because of the "generic" program - they are a baseline to dial in. Expect to spend a few hundred dollars on dyno sessions. See also the VWVortex 1.8T FAQ, and the AudiFreaks Big Turbo and High Performance sticky. Another common procedure with a BT is a wideband o2 conversion, which allows for better and safer tuning. Basically, do a lot of research and be patient before spending money, it really is the better option and you will skip the half-ass "learn along the way" problems you'd encounter otherwise.

      If you're putting a bigger turbo in a quattro, you'll need a specific downpipe to get around the Haldex system (the ones for the 180/Golf/Jetta WILL NOT work). If you're putting a bigger turbo in a 225, you'll need to consider that you have a different intake manifold/intercooler setup than the 180FWD/Golf/Jetta, so their parts won’t fit. That said, most stuff for the mk4 VW will work for a 180FWD TT, and the TT's 1.8T engine can use essentially any parts other 1.8Ts would.

      --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

      This FAQ was inspired by the posts "Its about time for a TT FAQ..." and "TT BUYERS GUIDE," though those threads are dead. Any suggestions or additions will be noted and edited into this FAQ; thank you to all who helped and to those that will continue helping. If you have links you would like to share with the forum, please post any link to parts vendors, tech sites, or general/misc. TT info as a reply to this FAQ. Thanks
      Last edited by l88m22vette; 03-19-2013 at 09:58 PM.
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    2. 09-14-2007 02:20 PM #2
      note that although the clutch discs are the same, the flywheels are NOT interchangeable as the VR motor uses an 8 bolt flywheel and we use a 6 bolt.

    3. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      09-17-2007 05:27 PM #3
      Quote »
      The Haldex system, when engaged, distributes 80% of the power to the front wheels and 20% to the rear wheels; Audi's quattro system, meanwhile, is capable of a 50-50 split (or, as in the case of the new S4/RS4, a 60-40 split favoring the rear wheels). In normal highway cruising, the TT Quattro is a FWD car, which has been said to improve fuel economy over the A4, which has a similar engine. When handling becomes an issue, the Haldex system begins to send power to the rear wheels. If you desire a 50-50 split, you can purchase a Haldex Performance controller... they sell for $750 new (from MJM Autohaus) or around $600 used. This part will give you a more aggressive distribution and will allow up to 50% of the power to go to the rear wheels. All three cars are effectively FWD until sensors throughout determine that power needs to be sent to the rear, which, in stock form, happens with hard acceleration or loss of traction.

      I'm gonna call you out on this because I got called out on this misconception myself. Haldex can transfer up to 50% to the back in stock form, it uses EDL the same way as TorSen quattro does. The difference is TorSen is stuck on a 50/50 split the whole time until traction is lost, then it transfers torque, whereas Haldex is FWD until it sense slip and starts transferring torque.


    4. 09-17-2007 09:10 PM #4
      "Can you please sticky this thread admin?"



      Modified by TREFTTY at 9:12 PM 9-17-2007

    5. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      09-17-2007 09:13 PM #5
      I changed it to say that the controller will give a 50/50 split sooner and more aggressively
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    6. Member JettaRed's Avatar
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      09-18-2007 07:26 AM #6
      I've seen the Samco video of the intake pipe collapsing, but is that really the case if the TIP is relatively new or in good shape? It seems that would only happen in the air filter was clogged or restricted in some way. The stock TIP seems fairly rigid and reinforced. How old or many miles were on the TIP in the video and what were the other conditions?

      The Samco pipe isn't necessarily expensive, but I'm sure it's a PITA to install.

      2004 Audi TT225 GIAC, DevilsOwn W/M, Modshack MOFO & VTDA, 42DD 3" DP, Neuspeed 19mm Rear Sway, Haldex Blue
      2002 GTI 337 Revo Custom, CAI, FMIC, Modshack MOFO, TT225 MAF & Injectors, DevilsOwn W/M, GHL 3" TurboBack
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    7. Member VWdriver03's Avatar
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      09-18-2007 11:41 AM #7
      Quote, originally posted by Murderface »

      I'm gonna call you out on this because I got called out on this misconception myself. Haldex can transfer up to 50% to the back in stock form, it uses EDL the same way as TorSen quattro does. The difference is TorSen is stuck on a 50/50 split the whole time until traction is lost, then it transfers torque, whereas Haldex is FWD until it sense slip and starts transferring torque.


      the haldex also distributes power fornt to rear bassed on speed, and engine torque.
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    8. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      09-18-2007 12:04 PM #8
      Quote, originally posted by l88m22vette »
      I changed it to say that the controller will give a 50/50 split sooner and more aggressively

      Awesome thread btw...bet 90% of newbies will still bypass it though.

      I think we oughta add either a "buying a TT" section to this or a new sticky cuz I see that a lot too. i.e. list typical little problems to look for when buying.


    9. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      09-19-2007 03:49 PM #9
      Quote, originally posted by Murderface »

      I think we oughta add either a "buying a TT" section to this or a new sticky cuz I see that a lot too. i.e. list typical little problems to look for when buying.

      Done and done

      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

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      09-19-2007 11:12 PM #10
      Quote, originally posted by Murderface »

      Awesome thread btw...bet 90% of newbies will still bypass it though.

      I'm one of the remaining 10%, then. I always did lurk in the upper percentiles.

      In the modifications section, how about a brief explanation of the rear-biased Haldex mod? Since both my current cars are RWD, this mod will likely be the 2nd one I do when I get a TT (1st - chip).


    11. 09-19-2007 11:19 PM #11
      We should combine this with the thread I started a month ago with the same point.

    12. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      09-20-2007 01:05 AM #12
      Buying section covers most of the stuff

      Two things I'd add from my TT: leaky headlight washers (I've seen this problem happen to other people too) and my DV was toast when I got my car. Didn't realize until I drilled my airbox and heard surge instead of blowoff. DV can of course be replaced with 710N for cheap or aftermarket. Tracking down washer leaks is HELL took me forever to finally stop mine.


    13. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      09-22-2007 05:07 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by splitsecond »
      We should combine this with the thread I started a month ago with the same point.

      I did, check out the FAQ towards the bottom

      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    14. Member 1.8Tabamoura's Avatar
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      09-28-2007 11:48 AM #14
      Quote, originally posted by l88m22vette »
      I changed it to say that the controller will give a 50/50 split sooner and more aggressively

      I don't see a change

      Quote, originally posted by l88m22vette »
      The Haldex system, when engaged, distributes 80% of the power to the front wheels and 20% to the rear wheels; Audi's quattro system, meanwhile, is capable of a 50-50 split

      And if you want to distinguish the systems , call them Haldex and Torsen , they are both quattro ..


      Modified by 1.8Tabamoura at 8:50 AM 9-28-2007


    15. 09-30-2007 09:58 AM #15
      If you could incorporate all of the different engine codes, what years they were offered and what are the differences between them that would be cool. Probably just put it in with the different submodels. A guy just posted this and it was a really good question, that I actually was wrong about the answer and it was also very interesting. I had no idea that 180's were VVT.

      http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3467969

      Also here is the TTULL it is invaluable. We should Copy the links though. I dont know if UNEEK will keep it running as he is selling his TT.

      http://www.straightfocus.com/uneekttlinks.htm

      Kenneth


      Modified by TREFTTY at 9:01 AM 10-1-2007


    16. 10-01-2007 07:28 PM #16
      very well done write-up...it helped a TT noob like myself decide if I want to make the VW-Audi switch next spring, thanks

    17. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      10-01-2007 11:56 PM #17
      Quote, originally posted by Buegie »
      very well done write-up...it helped a TT noob like myself decide if I want to make the VW-Audi switch next spring, thanks

      Good to hear it being put to good use

      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    18. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      10-04-2007 01:43 AM #18
      I'm sick of answering this...please add a section on bolt on turbo upgrades.

      Everybody wants a bolt on turbo upgrade...for something directly drop in either they can get a K04-001 which will bolt right in but not really increase performance much. I read that it's +20hp over a K03 and +5hp over a K03s. K04-020 from the 225 TT which can make decently more hp IS NOT BOLT ON it requires new manifold, injectors, MAF housing and software.

      Or they can get an ATP eliminator kit which IMO sucks ass because of its quality issues, high price and increased lag from KKK manifold etc.

      If you want to make a significant amount of hp over stock (read=worth the money+effort) you'll have to go BT.


      Modified by Murderface at 1:45 AM 10-4-2007


      Modified by Murderface at 1:46 AM 10-4-2007


    19. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      10-04-2007 06:10 PM #19
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

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      10-08-2007 09:53 PM #20
      Here is my DIY on the 42 draft designs downpipe for the 225, add it to the first post if you would like http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3291772
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    21. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      10-08-2007 11:41 PM #21
      Thanks, just saw that...I'm going to add a links section, but I don't want it to have 5000 links. That is a very good write-up, and will be in there...anyone else with good tech/info links, just post 'em and they'll be in
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    22. 10-17-2007 11:39 PM #22
      Perhaps we could mention colors?

      Amulet Red: LY3C
      Avus Silver Metallic: LY7J
      Brilliant Black: LY9B
      Brilliant White: LY9F
      Denim Blue Pearl: LZ5W
      Desert Green Pearl: LZ6W
      Aviator Gray Pearl: LZ7W
      Nimbus Gray Pearl: LZ7X
      Raven Black Pearl: LZ9V
      Lake Silver Metallic: LY7W
      Misano Red Pri Metallic: LZ3M
      Venetian Violet Pearl Effect: LZ3W
      Moro Blue Pearl Clearcoat: LZ5J
      Nero Blue Pearl Clearcoat: LZ5S
      Imola Yellow Clearcoat: LY1C
      Papaya Orange Metallic Clearcoat: LY2B
      Ocean Blue Metallic Clearcoat: LZ5C
      Goodwood Green Pearl Clearcoat: LZ6X
      Dolomite Gray Pearl Clearcoat: LZ7J
      Glacier Blue Metallic Clearcoat: LZ7K
      Dakar Beige Metallic Clearcoat: LY1Q
      Quartz Gray Metallic Clearcoat: LY7G



      Modified by TREFTTY at 12:43 PM 2-1-2008


    23. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      10-17-2007 11:44 PM #23
      I've almost hit the limit on the characters allowed in the main FAQ, so post any misc. info, and anything essential will be put in the main one. Thanks
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    24. 10-21-2007 09:23 PM #24
      with the upgraded haldex, can you run more power or is 350 still the limit?

    25. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      10-21-2007 10:44 PM #25
      350hp is the engine limit, whereas the Haldex is good for 550+hp
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    26. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      11-06-2007 01:49 PM #26
      I say this belongs at least in this thread, it's a good read:

      Quote, originally posted by TREFTTY »

      Yes, your car is falling apart. This is just one of the plethora of things that are now going to start breaking on your TT.

      The glove box handle has broken on practically every TT on this forum. I think what happened to you is that the little gear that makes one side pull right and the other side left has broke off of its pin. SO now it wont hold it shut. It sounds like your handle is still on, correct?

      Then your windows will squeel as they go down, such a charming attribute of the high dollar car. (There is a fix for this on Jeff Bipes page.)

      Next will probably be your cluster, whether it be a guage not working right, or perhaps the center display will have lines start failing. (Uber annoying)

      Then, Your windows will probably start going nuts(rolling up and then down then up again, when you hit the switch.

      Then your turn signals will start going nuts when you use them (This will be your hazard relay causing this problem).

      Then your fog lights will start acting up ( When you turn the headlights on they will be on no matter what. You will lose the ability to turn them on separately when the headlights are on.

      Then (my personal favorate) the two doors in the back seat area will stop staying closed. They will pop open whenever you hit a bump.

      And I am sorry to say that I have not left the interior yet.

      Now to the engine bay (The engine is actually a pretty solid engine)


      Coilpacks go way to often (When one goes bad, just replace them all)

      MAF's fail quite a bit (Alot of times cleaning will fix this)

      Secondary Air injection System will start causing a squeel on startup.

      The engine is just noisy, which will probably drive you nuts. And it will sound different whenever it feels like it just to make you think there may be something wrong with it (which there probably will be)

      You should install a "catch can", so your intercoolers dont fill with oil.


      Suspension/Exhaust

      This car is without a doubt the noisiest car I have ever owned (And there have been many) This car has more noises and rattles then I think it has parts. The suspension creeks, the exhaust rattles(even the stock one). And I know that there are fixes for all this ****, but should we all really have to replace all of our bushings with Poly? Couldnt they have just done that from jump street?

      This seems like a new one lately, Wheel bearings at abnormally low mileages. What a bitch these are to replace yourself. And annoying as hell to have to listen to.

      All of the above things happened to me on my 2002 TT in the short less then 2 year ownership I have had. I am sure that I missed some things but you get the gist of it.

      If you can look past all of these problems, then I guess the TT is a really fun car to drive. But I simply cannot. There is not enough money in the world for me to afford to own this car. I am entirely to picky. I have done every maintanance and then some and kept her so shiny that you could go blind if you looked at her the wrong way, and for all this she still hates me.

      But it looks hot as hell though, doesnt it? Inside and out, a work of art within itself. It is a shame that they concentrated on that one aspect when they built it..


      Thanks fingy, for opening the door for this one. I really needed to vent some frustration. This car keeps me awake at night calling "Kenneth, come fix some more broken ****". And thats just really ****ed up right there, I dont care who you are.


    27. Member ShockwaveCS's Avatar
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      11-06-2007 02:53 PM #27
      lol the recent addition of wheel bearings. i just dropped 580 on them. get my car back soon. W00!

    28. 11-06-2007 06:32 PM #28
      That rant is poetic, isnt it?

    29. 11-14-2007 10:55 PM #29
      l88m22vette,

      Thank you very much for the FAQ, it is really helpful.


    30. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      11-15-2007 12:27 PM #30
      You bet
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    31. Member TTguy30's Avatar
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      11-18-2007 10:46 AM #31
      yeah i can def. agree with most of the problems from the rant, i had to pry my glovebox open with a screwdriver to get all my **** out plus now my car won't stop running lean because im not getting enough spark and i have changed my spark plugs so many times i stopped counting and now since i dont have my book i have some weird warning sign coming on in the cluster with a circle and lines around it, so if anyone knows what that is please help me out, but even with all that, this car is fun and i think is worth the trouble, but thats just me

    32. Member Murderface's Avatar
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      11-18-2007 03:37 PM #32
      (O) = brakes

    33. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      11-18-2007 06:29 PM #33
      TTguy30, you'll need to take some of the side passenger dash apart...also, you've probably got coilpack issues, not sparkplug issues Here is an AudiWorld post on how to get it open: http://forums.audiworld.com/tt/msgs/1661146.phtml


      Modified by l88m22vette at 5:31 PM 11-18-2007
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

    34. 11-22-2007 03:37 PM #34
      How do I know an early TT got the suspencion fixed appart from the spoiler and the ASR? button?

      Are there any hidden differences that someone trying to sell an revised TT as a revised TT wouldnt change and I could find out about?

      Thankx.

      And before telling me to ready the FAQ, I've read the FAQ and still cant see where that is.


    35. Member l88m22vette's Avatar
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      11-30-2007 01:31 PM #35
      The best way to tell would be to get the VIN, and check with Audi to see whether or not that specific TT had been taken care of; Audi should keep recall records based on the VIN
      Audi TT mk1 FAQ zero Porsche wheels given

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