soemthing to look into. thanks
After reading all these different tiptronic posts, I finally ordered the solenoid set and went ahead and replaced them. Thanks to these posts, everything went pretty straight forward. It just gets a little messy trying to keep track of everything with all the wiring when replacing all of the solenoids.
My original problem was the hard shifts from 2-3 and 3-4, this progressively got worse over the past few months. I have only had the car running about 8-9 months. Original owner let the timing belt go too long and I got that fixed the beginning of last summer.
Well, after getting everything back together late last night, I took it for a spin, and what an amazing difference! Everything seemed to shift great and smooth all the way through gears 1-5.
Parked it back in the shop last night and had to button up a few loose ends. After that this morning, I went to drive the car, and backed it out and had no problem.
When I went to take off, put it in Drive, and the car wouldn't go anywhere. No forward gears at all. I revved it up higher, and it seemed to try and move a little, like there was low pressure.
There is also a little rattle (between 1200 and 1800 RPM), which sounds like it is coming from under the valve cover near the timing belt end of the head. Not related though, I'm sure.
Does anyone have any ideas why this would happen and not have any forward gears after working great last night and functioning great?
I am going to check the resistance on the new solenoids through the harness later this week when I have time.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Hello! Excuse for errors in English. I from Russia. At me is 2004 jetta 1.8T with 5 speeds tiptronic from Mexico. Please help to solve my problem! At me the reverse gear-R does not join. When I disconnect the main connector from a transmission, it is necessary to pass a little on D (4 speed), then it is possible will include R. I think that malfunction in the hydroblock!? Test VAG COM of errors is not present, shows that back (R) is included. But the car costs, as though is included N. Thanks for the answer!
I have been having some fairly severe issues with my transmission and I found this thread hoping it would help. So I want to thank coolvdub for such an informative find and post.
It started quiet a while ago,when the car would have issues shifting into second and third unless the rpms climbed fairly high (5k or so). Lately it has stabalized and will only shift from 2nd into third and then directly into 4th as long as I come close to redline (6k rpm). If I drop below 20mph it downshifts and then I have to redline it again to get it to shift.
This at first was only for a few minutes and then nothing. Now the shifting (or lack of) happens for quiet a while, even after the car has been warmed up. It is a 09A transmission, confirmed by a local shop, but they have told me that the valve body needs to be replaced. Those are a tad bit expensive, so I came here looking for an alternative.
Using the sheets that coolvdub put up, I thought that it might be a solenoid issue. Here is what I just got for measurements:
The only ones that seem to be out of tolerance are N93 and N283, though not by much. The others are fairly close to the limits so they could just be failing also. I am debating taking it to a local VW dealer and seeing if they have anything to say other than replacing the valve body like the local shop.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
There are lots of threads here describing your problem; some are fixed by solenoids, and some have been driven so long that the friction material is burned or destroyed in one or more clutches.
Dealer, more than likely, will want to change the whole transmission rather than the valve body.
Lurked for a time reading and researching about the tiptronic and all its problems. Mine was holding onto 2nd gear requiring revs up to 6000 for it to shift suddenly to 4th. Replaced all 9 solenoids and swapped the fluid. One tankful of gas later it's still going strong, shifting well, and making me happy. Just wanted to thank all who went before making mistakes and solving problems so that the rest of us could benefit.
Fingers crossed for the end of my problems. Maybe I will keep the car after all!
Literally just finished reading this complete thread! Thanks coolvdub for posting it. I'm 99.999% sure I have the faulty N92 solenoid, car will not shift out of first when cold until the tranny warms up (5-8 mins). So I'm definitely changing the solenoid out.
Here is my other issue, my RPM's are high and I really think that the tranny is not switching into 5th gear and that I'm running on the freeway in 4th gear. Check out this thread I started here:
what do you guys think? Hope someone can point me to the right solenoid to also fix this problem. I know I could just maby swap all the solenoids out, but I'm trying to save some money. If someone can tell me exactly which solenoid controls 5th gear, then maybe that's the culprit of my high RPM's?
From this post that coolvdub posted, it appears that soleniods N88 &N92 are the ones used to acheieve 5th gear, so maybe also changing N88 would fix my problem?
Thanks in advace to anyone how replies.
Just change them all. Your not saving if you have to do it twice or 3 times.
Auto trans fluid change or flush will not make a trans fail. Stop spreading the wives tale/urban myth.
ASE Master Certified Technician with L1 Advanced Diagnostic Rating Recently passed ASE certification for Light Diesel repair.
Ok guys, here is my update on my original thread. Swapped out all the solenoids, fixed my "cold shift" issue but still have the high RPM problem. Please read here.
Do you guys think my tranny is operating in safe mode? Do you normally reset the TCM after a full solenoid set replacement? Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm hopefull I'll get to the bottom of this issue soon.
Last edited by wiseguy55; 11-19-2012 at 01:24 PM.
Found 2 places for the Solenoid kits, Thanks to the forum members links.
One is almost half the price! Not sure if I should trust the half price kit.
What do you guys think?
Nice test procedure but I couldn't find an obvious "smoking gun" with my car.
N88 > 18 ohm
N89 > 18 ohm
N90 > 17 ohm
N91 > 14 ohm
N92 > 17 ohm
N93 > 3.6 ohm
N281 > 17 ohm
N282 > 17 ohm
N283 > 3.6 ohm
G68 > 590 ohm
G182 > 600 ohm
G93 > 3.7 K in garage, said 17 C
G265 > 590 ohm
I've been getting the "temp not plausible" warning for a while but darned if I can ever catch something crazy using VCDS. I replaced both the coolant sensor and thermostat on the car a year ago.
Wondering if I could pick some brains on other questions:
* On another thread somewhere it suggested using the Bentley fill method but then add about another 8 oz past the fill point. supposedly the transmission "shifts better". Should I use VCDS again and fill "by the book?"
* In the same vein I have a wagon and the rear springs are long and stiff, the car tilts forward noticeably. should I level up the door frame when checking the fluid level with VCDS?
* I have a 4L jug of Titan 3353 ATF and that meets the G052 990 A2 spec, and I heard somewhere that this German made fluid is actually identical to the $28 per liter stuff sold by VW. Anyone heard that?
My car has 180,000 miles on it and while no solenoids read out of spec, one could be sticking. Also I wonder if the valve body would be good to replace now if I do the solenoids, and the wire harness with temp sensor while I am at it.