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    Thread: Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion

    1. Member VW LVR's Avatar
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      08-27-2012 12:19 PM #981
      Quote Originally Posted by fakrs View Post
      I have no clue what i'm doing and dont want to mess anything up. So with that said is there anyone near York PA will to come to my house and help clean up my bay? Motors already out and the front ends already off. I work for a parts company so if you need anything let me know or we can work out a payment.
      If you were local I'd totally help ya.

    2. Member
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      08-28-2012 03:51 PM #982
      Starting today some mount swap....

      Parts.


      How i hope it will look.


      more pics soon...

    3. Member Dub'dRite's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 04:44 PM #983
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      Here is my fuse block

      I wanna know where you picked up this fuse block...all I've been finding local have been either not fused or all 8 gauge...and ebay is hit or miss too...any details would be appreciated thanks

    4. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 04:51 PM #984
      I snagged this at a local stereo shop in there "grab" bin. It is perfect, 4ga from any of angle and then the 4 8ga outputs. I am sure knukonceptz will have one, that is where I got the distro block for the back.

      Quote Originally Posted by Dub'dRite View Post
      I wanna know where you picked up this fuse block...all I've been finding local have been either not fused or all 8 gauge...and ebay is hit or miss too...any details would be appreciated thanks

    5. Member Dub'dRite's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 04:57 PM #985
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      I snagged this at a local stereo shop in there "grab" bin. It is perfect, 4ga from any of angle and then the 4 8ga outputs. I am sure knukonceptz will have one, that is where I got the distro block for the back.
      Thanks, yea when I saw it I was like thats perfect...maybe I'll get lucky and snag a couple too

    6. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 05:14 PM #986
      No need to dig around! As I assumed Knu has it, I get everything through these guys (except that block). Great quality, cheap prices and quick shipping.

      http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-3448

    7. Member Dub'dRite's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 05:27 PM #987
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      No need to dig around! As I assumed Knu has it, I get everything through these guys (except that block). Great quality, cheap prices and quick shipping.

      http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-3448
      You sir, saved me all kinds of time thanks again

    8. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 05:39 PM #988
      No problem dude, that's what the thread is for!

    9. Member Matty Much's Avatar
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      09-04-2012 06:25 PM #989
      Quote Originally Posted by arved View Post
      Starting today some mount swap....

      Parts.


      How i hope it will look.


      more pics soon...
      i really want some more info on this...how to you plan on mounting the front part of the subframe..also you would need a mk3 tranny correct?
      East Coast

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      09-04-2012 10:09 PM #990
      Quote Originally Posted by Matty Much View Post
      i really want some more info on this...how to you plan on mounting the front part of the subframe..also you would need a mk3 tranny correct?
      so the front part and the subframe i bought only to take some mesures. and cut to use the mounts of it, the rear engine mout in 1.8t ou vr6 are plug and play. the front one i'm building a custom frame for it and bolt in the oil pan bolts.

      the problema is, the tranny mount from mk3 dont fit on mk5 tranny, i'm try other cars like, vw van, passat, and other brazilian models that use the same mounts system, but the problem is that the mk4 subframe suport is closer to the engine that in mk3. so i'll build my own mount for it.

      hope post some pics as soon as i can. alot of work and stuff to do..

      when i got some progress i'll glad to post them here.

      thanks alot matty.

    11. Member vdubbinn8611's Avatar
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      09-05-2012 11:03 AM #991
      Sounds like a good project! I'm interested in seeing the progress.

    12. Member .:V.R.6.6.6:.'s Avatar
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      09-07-2012 08:22 PM #992
      Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


      Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!

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      09-07-2012 08:42 PM #993
      Quote Originally Posted by .:V.R.6.6.6:. View Post
      Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


      Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!
      For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.

    14. Member .:V.R.6.6.6:.'s Avatar
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      09-07-2012 09:19 PM #994
      Quote Originally Posted by VDubDubber View Post
      For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.
      So the evap solenoid is an obvious one. But which part of the secondary air system should I resister? Should I resister anything else? Thank you so much

    15. Member woody89's Avatar
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      09-08-2012 12:52 PM #995
      Where would be a good place to get the hex style bolts like swoops runs in his motor mounts? I really like the look of them lately.

      DEADBUILT

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      09-08-2012 10:17 PM #996
      Quote Originally Posted by woody89 View Post
      Where would be a good place to get the hex style bolts like swoops runs in his motor mounts? I really like the look of them lately.
      hardware stors and suppliers on the internet. the key is to get a thread pitch/size measuring tool.

      Hardlines by Swoops Fabrications, Inc.
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    17. Member vwturbowolf's Avatar
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      09-08-2012 10:33 PM #997
      hey guys.
      thought i would share on deleting the power steering
      i ran without the pump connected but all the lines and pump were still in. it was very driveable.
      i ended up getting everything out and running a small line to loop the rack

      heres what i used
      shortened belt, 36.7inches. will get part number on monday.
      m14 to -6 adapter
      m16 to -6 adapter
      -6 90 degree bend x 2 ( can also use 2 130 degree or 2 180 degree )
      i got the crush washers from vw but u can order them online as well. u need 1 m14 and 1 m16
      braided black nylon hose
      i would also recommend ordering 034 motorsports solid steering rack mount and their solid subframe bushings. it was much easier to pull the subframe out and do everything off the car.


      i ended up cutting the main bracket that holds the power steering pump, ac, and alternator.
      i dont have ac or ps now so i cut it down

      pictures


      415+whp. 355 wtq
      Timeline, Build, RHD swap
      my 10 year+ build
      high quality body or frame repair work. Richards Body & Fender. Towson, Maryland

    18. Member woody89's Avatar
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      09-09-2012 11:10 PM #998
      Quote Originally Posted by Swoops View Post
      hardware stors and suppliers on the internet. the key is to get a thread pitch/size measuring tool.
      Yeah not much local for me that I am aware of. I found a website with what I need though.
      DEADBUILT

    19. Member Budsdubbin's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 10:26 AM #999
      any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?
      20th Build ~9:5:1 wiseco 81mm forge pisons~IE 20mm rifle drilled H beams~Calico rod bearing~stock port AWP head matched to a IE intake manifold~hemi throttlebody~Custom downpipe/turboback~Self maestro tuned~tial 38mm wastegate~GT3076r .63ar Vband~6 puck Clutchnet~PTE600~USRT 1000cc gen2's~044 IE surge assembly~IE fuelrail~fuelab adjustable FPR

    20. Member vdubbinn8611's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 04:59 PM #1000
      Need my bay done! I'll buy who's down to help out? LOL

    21. Member dr. b's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 07:06 PM #1001
      Quote Originally Posted by Budsdubbin View Post
      any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?
      all i have on my firewall is gold thermal barrier. the noise from the engine bay has not changed. (except i replaced the whine of a SC with the whistle of a turbo)
      i wouldn't worry about the noise. make sure you get something to ward off the heat from the firewall and the rain tray if you're not going to run heatshields. it'd be a shame to poach your ECU like an egg.
      "I'm DrB and I approve this message."

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    22. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 09:20 PM #1002
      Dead on. The noise is negligible, the heat though, ohhhhh the heat. I double insulated my inner firewall this spring and am really hoping it helps. Driving is ok but drive for a while, park then get back in and the heat soak is noticeable.

    23. Member dr. b's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 09:38 PM #1003
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      Dead on. The noise is negligible, the heat though, ohhhhh the heat. I double insulated my inner firewall this spring and am really hoping it helps. Driving is ok but drive for a while, park then get back in and the heat soak is noticeable.
      i know it goes firmly against your pretty brown paint, but that gold foil is amazing. one layer and even on the 8 hours to SOWO and back, i never felt any heat thru the firewall.
      "I'm DrB and I approve this message."

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    24. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-10-2012 09:47 PM #1004
      It's on the inside and then covered with a high density foam and finally the OEM pad. Should help a little... I hope.

      Quote Originally Posted by dr. b View Post
      i know it goes firmly against your pretty brown paint, but that gold foil is amazing. one layer and even on the 8 hours to SOWO and back, i never felt any heat thru the firewall.

    25. Member MrAkalin's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 01:40 AM #1005
      Quick question.. On the low coolant level sensor, how do I get rid of the sensor without setting off the dash light, cutting them back and leaving them or cutting them back and connecting them?
      2002 F21 GTI Sold
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    26. Member Tofik's Avatar
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      09-11-2012 08:33 AM #1006
      Quote Originally Posted by MrAkalin View Post
      Quick question.. On the low coolant level sensor, how do I get rid of the sensor without setting off the dash light, cutting them back and leaving them or cutting them back and connecting them?
      when you disconnect the sensor you need to bridge the wires.. i just used a piece of wire with male spade connectors, plugged it in to the harness , taped , and threw it in the rain tray
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    27. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 01:10 PM #1007
      When you guys relocate the fusebox:

      Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?

      Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
      BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??

      I might be relocating my fusebox soon.

      Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?

      Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

    28. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 01:40 PM #1008
      Fusebox: All new wires and connections. I replaced everything in the system with high grade tinned copper. When I say that I mean track all connections from the fusebox to their termination points and build a new line. See my pic above. This is all up to you but anyone I know that has had problems has had them because of a bad connection.

      Overflow can be anywhere, hide away. In an open system anything that is pushed out fills the can and when it cools enough it will pull the fluid back in. Hope that helps.

      Quote Originally Posted by thygreyt View Post
      When you guys relocate the fusebox:

      Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?

      Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
      BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??

      I might be relocating my fusebox soon.

      Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?

      Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

    29. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:20 PM #1009
      It's certainly more work, but I guess its the right way to do it.

      Thanks.

      Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

    30. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:26 PM #1010
      Honestly dude, it is a whole lot less than extending. I can solder some nice gold plated ends onto my cable and run it a lot quicker than extending OEM stuff inside the car.

    31. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:29 PM #1011
      I'll give it a try later.
      Now I need to buy a bunch of cables.

      Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

    32. Member arethirdytwo's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:31 PM #1012
      You're welcome

      http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

      I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.

    33. Member thygreyt's Avatar
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      09-12-2012 02:51 PM #1013
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      You're welcome

      http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

      I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.
      Will do!! Again, thank toy very very much.
      I may tackle.it before or around November.

      Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

    34. Member .:V.R.6.6.6:.'s Avatar
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      09-13-2012 10:03 PM #1014
      Can anyone point out where i should drill to get into the frame rail?


    35. Member woody89's Avatar
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      09-13-2012 10:05 PM #1015
      Quote Originally Posted by arethirdytwo View Post
      You're welcome

      http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

      I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.
      knu is a good company!
      DEADBUILT

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