Shaved, Tucked, Customized Engine Bays - Pics, Theory, Discussion

[VW LVR]

I have no clue what i'm doing and dont want to mess anything up. So with that said is there anyone near York PA will to come to my house and help clean up my bay? Motors already out and the front ends already off. I work for a parts company so if you need anything let me know or we can work out a payment.

If you were local I'd totally help ya.

[arved]

Starting today some mount swap....

Parts.


How i hope it will look.


more pics soon...

[Dub'dRite]

Here is my fuse block

I wanna know where you picked up this fuse block...all I've been finding local have been either not fused or all 8 gauge...and ebay is hit or miss too...any details would be appreciated thanks

[arethirdytwo]

I snagged this at a local stereo shop in there "grab" bin. It is perfect, 4ga from any of angle and then the 4 8ga outputs. I am sure knukonceptz will have one, that is where I got the distro block for the back.

I wanna know where you picked up this fuse block...all I've been finding local have been either not fused or all 8 gauge...and ebay is hit or miss too...any details would be appreciated thanks

[Dub'dRite]

I snagged this at a local stereo shop in there "grab" bin. It is perfect, 4ga from any of angle and then the 4 8ga outputs. I am sure knukonceptz will have one, that is where I got the distro block for the back.

Thanks, yea when I saw it I was like thats perfect...maybe I'll get lucky and snag a couple too

[arethirdytwo]

No need to dig around! As I assumed Knu has it, I get everything through these guys (except that block). Great quality, cheap prices and quick shipping.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-3448

[Dub'dRite]

No need to dig around! As I assumed Knu has it, I get everything through these guys (except that block). Great quality, cheap prices and quick shipping.

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...prodID=BC-3448

You sir, saved me all kinds of time thanks again

[arethirdytwo]

No problem dude, that's what the thread is for!

[Matty Much]

Starting today some mount swap....

Parts.


How i hope it will look.


more pics soon...

i really want some more info on this...how to you plan on mounting the front part of the subframe..also you would need a mk3 tranny correct?

[arved]

i really want some more info on this...how to you plan on mounting the front part of the subframe..also you would need a mk3 tranny correct?

so the front part and the subframe i bought only to take some mesures. and cut to use the mounts of it, the rear engine mout in 1.8t ou vr6 are plug and play. the front one i'm building a custom frame for it and bolt in the oil pan bolts.

the problema is, the tranny mount from mk3 dont fit on mk5 tranny, i'm try other cars like, vw van, passat, and other brazilian models that use the same mounts system, but the problem is that the mk4 subframe suport is closer to the engine that in mk3. so i'll build my own mount for it.

hope post some pics as soon as i can. alot of work and stuff to do..

when i got some progress i'll glad to post them here.

thanks alot matty.

[vdubbinn8611]

Sounds like a good project! I'm interested in seeing the progress.

[.:V.R.6.6.6:.]

Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!

[VDubDubber]

Hey guys I'm in the middle of shaving my 12v VR bay and I have a few questions. I know I need to resister for the evap and secondary so that my fuel trims adapt. What size resister should I use? What did you guys do with your pcv valves? I'm trying to have as little codes as possible. Also not 100% on which pressure rad cap I should use. Lastly what do these solenoids control one has to do with secondary air.


Thanks for any help it is very much appreciated!

For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.

[.:V.R.6.6.6:.]

For resistors use 330 ohm 1/4-1watt depending which plug it is. The wattage isn't a big deal just make sure they are high enough watt not to overheat. I could start spewing formulas but I'm tired and this isn't that critical an issue, that you would need to be that precise.

So the evap solenoid is an obvious one. But which part of the secondary air system should I resister? Should I resister anything else? Thank you so much

[woody89]

Where would be a good place to get the hex style bolts like swoops runs in his motor mounts? I really like the look of them lately.

[Swoops]

Where would be a good place to get the hex style bolts like swoops runs in his motor mounts? I really like the look of them lately.

hardware stors and suppliers on the internet. the key is to get a thread pitch/size measuring tool.

[vwturbowolf]

hey guys.
thought i would share on deleting the power steering
i ran without the pump connected but all the lines and pump were still in. it was very driveable.
i ended up getting everything out and running a small line to loop the rack

heres what i used
shortened belt, 36.7inches. will get part number on monday.
m14 to -6 adapter
m16 to -6 adapter
-6 90 degree bend x 2 ( can also use 2 130 degree or 2 180 degree )
i got the crush washers from vw but u can order them online as well. u need 1 m14 and 1 m16
braided black nylon hose
i would also recommend ordering 034 motorsports solid steering rack mount and their solid subframe bushings. it was much easier to pull the subframe out and do everything off the car.


i ended up cutting the main bracket that holds the power steering pump, ac, and alternator.
i dont have ac or ps now so i cut it down

pictures

[woody89]

hardware stors and suppliers on the internet. the key is to get a thread pitch/size measuring tool.

Yeah not much local for me that I am aware of. I found a website with what I need though.

[Budsdubbin]

any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?

[vdubbinn8611]

Need my bay done! I'll buy who's down to help out? LOL

[dr. b]

any idea's on replacement fire wall insolation? I'm thinking about useing DEI for the area around the turbo on my 20th but I'm thinking about using some for sound insolation. I'm not too picky but I want to hear myself think. ORRR will going without it not be as bad as I think?

all i have on my firewall is gold thermal barrier. the noise from the engine bay has not changed. (except i replaced the whine of a SC with the whistle of a turbo)
i wouldn't worry about the noise. make sure you get something to ward off the heat from the firewall and the rain tray if you're not going to run heatshields. it'd be a shame to poach your ECU like an egg.

[arethirdytwo]

Dead on. The noise is negligible, the heat though, ohhhhh the heat. I double insulated my inner firewall this spring and am really hoping it helps. Driving is ok but drive for a while, park then get back in and the heat soak is noticeable.

[dr. b]

Dead on. The noise is negligible, the heat though, ohhhhh the heat. I double insulated my inner firewall this spring and am really hoping it helps. Driving is ok but drive for a while, park then get back in and the heat soak is noticeable.

i know it goes firmly against your pretty brown paint, but that gold foil is amazing. one layer and even on the 8 hours to SOWO and back, i never felt any heat thru the firewall.

[arethirdytwo]

It's on the inside and then covered with a high density foam and finally the OEM pad. Should help a little... I hope.

i know it goes firmly against your pretty brown paint, but that gold foil is amazing. one layer and even on the 8 hours to SOWO and back, i never felt any heat thru the firewall.

[MrAkalin]

Quick question.. On the low coolant level sensor, how do I get rid of the sensor without setting off the dash light, cutting them back and leaving them or cutting them back and connecting them?

[Tofik]

Quick question.. On the low coolant level sensor, how do I get rid of the sensor without setting off the dash light, cutting them back and leaving them or cutting them back and connecting them?

when you disconnect the sensor you need to bridge the wires.. i just used a piece of wire with male spade connectors, plugged it in to the harness , taped , and threw it in the rain tray

[thygreyt]

When you guys relocate the fusebox:

Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?

Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??

I might be relocating my fusebox soon.

Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

[arethirdytwo]

Fusebox: All new wires and connections. I replaced everything in the system with high grade tinned copper. When I say that I mean track all connections from the fusebox to their termination points and build a new line. See my pic above. This is all up to you but anyone I know that has had problems has had them because of a bad connection.

Overflow can be anywhere, hide away. In an open system anything that is pushed out fills the can and when it cools enough it will pull the fluid back in. Hope that helps.

When you guys relocate the fusebox:

Do you solder and crimp the wires, or run new ones, when possible?

Meaning: on the small ecu power wires, you would have to extend them, no matter what.
BUT, on the alt wire, starter, battery, etc, which are the big wires, what do you do??

I might be relocating my fusebox soon.

Oh, also: when you run an inline filler, what do you do with the bottle?? You still have to run a bottle with the filler, to keep the system pressurized, so i've seen every shaved bay with a hidden overflow bottle... do they need to be on the highest point?or simply doesnt matter?

Sent from my GT-P7510 using Tapatalk 2

[thygreyt]

It's certainly more work, but I guess its the right way to do it.

Thanks.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

[arethirdytwo]

Honestly dude, it is a whole lot less than extending. I can solder some nice gold plated ends onto my cable and run it a lot quicker than extending OEM stuff inside the car.

[thygreyt]

I'll give it a try later.
Now I need to buy a bunch of cables.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

[arethirdytwo]

You're welcome

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.

[thygreyt]

You're welcome

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.

Will do!! Again, thank toy very very much.
I may tackle.it before or around November.

Sent from my HTC Sensation 4G using Tapatalk 2

[.:V.R.6.6.6:.]

Can anyone point out where i should drill to get into the frame rail?

[woody89]

You're welcome

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMa...0Fleks%20Kable

I get everything from these guys. Amazing prices, fast shipping and just what you need. Spend the extra and get the full copper I linked to, not the cheaper CCA.

knu is a good company!