So you perked my attention at the museum last weekend and I came across this thread. All I can say is this is amazing and pretty awesome. Keep it up. Seems like the adventure is as much fun as the end result.
Thanks Matt It sure is nice to work with brand new materials, instead of oil and grease covered parts!
I put the rain tray in the Scirocco Monday morning. The thicker material made it a bit difficult to get the clips on without tools, but I made it happen
If you ever find your way down to the Bend area, let me know
It's time for me to start my RV-7 empennage.
Major house projects complete (built a deck this summer and painted much of the interior/exterior).
A few questions for you....since the VAF forums are so torn...
What primer/priming process did you use? I don't think I want to go through the whole alumiprep/alodine/prime process....was leaning more towards scuffing & a self etching rattle can primer.
2x or 3x rivet gun? I'm going to go with the Cleaveland kit and a Souix gun, but not sure which one to get if I'm only going to get one.
Sweet! I think you're going to have a lot of fun
I've been using SEM self etching primer, mostly because you can get it in rattle cans, quarts or gallons. So you have the rattle cans for small parts or short work sessions, and can use a spray gun for larger parts or priming sessions. I called SEM before I started using it, and the person I talked to recommended sealing the primer after applying it to the part because it will actually absorb water. So I've been spraying clear coat over the primer, which can look nice, but it's also a bit of a PITA. I never really looked into 2 part epoxy primers, so that may be a good way to go also, but I suspect will take a bit more planning for small parts, etc.
For the rivet gun, I'm using a 2x and have had to borrow a 3x once or twice. I think I'd go with a 3x and just keep the pressure down for the -3 rivets. There are times when the 2x takes so many hits to set a rivet that the bucking bar slips and you muck up the rivet. I think the 3x is a great benefit in those situations (like riveting the wing ribs to the spar). I would also invest in a tungsten bucking bar- REALLY helps get rivets set quickly.
When it comes time to put the end ribs on your elevators, DON'T follow the directions! I believe they have you rivet the nose and end ribs together first, then rivet the nose rib to the spar. This makes it very hard to get your rivet gun and bucking bar(maybe squeezers would work, I forget) into position. If you put the nose rib on first, it goes on super easy, then it's super easy to rivet the end rib to the nose rib.
Have fun! I'm still trying to unbury myself enough to get back to work on mine
What model Stinson are you working on? I did my tail wheel in a 108-2 and am planning on buying one in the future.
I also used to teach at Aurora airport so it's cool to see someone build one in steps. The factory opened the year I left so I never had a chance to tour.
The Stinson is a 108-1, thread HERE. Currently having the starter rebuilt and drying out some instruments. I met a guy a few weeks ago that can work with me on rebuilding the big engine for it.
The RV is in hibernation mode, hoping to get back on it this winter. This is reason I put quotes around the word spare in the title, haha!!
Well, I thought I'd bump this thread up....finally got started on my RV-7 build
I've had the empennage kit almost 4 years now, however most of my free time has been going towards my house. Not anymore!
I'm starting with the vertical stabilizer instead of the horizontal, as it's supposed to be a little bit easier. Here's the result of fitting the vertical stab spar doubler into the vertical stab rear spar. With the way the rudder attach brackets go on after this step, I should've cleco'd this from the other side but i'll flip it over tonight. Hoping to complete the empennage by Oshkosh!
Anyway, last night I updrilled all the holes in the spars & ribs. Started clecoing on the skin to updrill that but ran out of 3/32 clecos - my order of more hasn't arrived yet. Hopefully this weekend I'll be able to get to deburring, dimpling and priming and hopefully have a VS by early next week
This has been a cool thread to dig through. Now I have to follow like the people that have been following it from the beginning and wait a few more years for one of these to be done.
Got any hoppy beers to recommend? PM me.
Press in dire situations: http://nooooooooooooooo.com/
Nice job! Only about 17433 more rivets to go!
I started organizing my space last week, and actually found where I had left off, and even found the parts I was working on Then yesterday, I actually made PROGRESS! Edge deburred two small pieces and match drilled six holes before the 4 year old demanded my attention WOO!
Anyways i had my first (of a few, I'm sure) setback this past weekend. Drilling some holes with a long drill bit (the HS-404 and HS-405 to the HS-702 front spar) I really should've drilled #40 pilot holes. Instead, I drilled them right to #30 and due to me trying to bend the long drill bit to get the hole perpendicular to the parts, the holes ended up enlarged beyond the maximum milspec diameter. While I could updrill them to accept a 5 rivet, I'm a little unhappy with some other things on the front spar. Ordered some new pieces on Monday and hopefully I'll be back to it this weekend!
Cleaveland Main Squeeze The thing is a beast, and I can squeeze 1/8th inch rivets with no issues.
Anyway, finished up my horizontal on Friday. Time for the rudder and elevator!
thought you guys might find these interesting. just stumbled across them on AOPA. Maybe save your wrists a little.
I saw those too. Interesting concept, but so far haven't needed them. For some reason I get the feeling that I would have better accuracy putting it in the hole (hehe) with the traditional pliers. The orientation of the new ones reminds me of slamming a fist on a table- not so good when you're trying to cleco your wing skins, haha!