So you perked my attention at the museum last weekend and I came across this thread. All I can say is this is amazing and pretty awesome. Keep it up. Seems like the adventure is as much fun as the end result.
Thanks Matt It sure is nice to work with brand new materials, instead of oil and grease covered parts!
I put the rain tray in the Scirocco Monday morning. The thicker material made it a bit difficult to get the clips on without tools, but I made it happen
If you ever find your way down to the Bend area, let me know
It's time for me to start my RV-7 empennage.
Major house projects complete (built a deck this summer and painted much of the interior/exterior).
A few questions for you....since the VAF forums are so torn...
What primer/priming process did you use? I don't think I want to go through the whole alumiprep/alodine/prime process....was leaning more towards scuffing & a self etching rattle can primer.
2x or 3x rivet gun? I'm going to go with the Cleaveland kit and a Souix gun, but not sure which one to get if I'm only going to get one.
Sweet! I think you're going to have a lot of fun
I've been using SEM self etching primer, mostly because you can get it in rattle cans, quarts or gallons. So you have the rattle cans for small parts or short work sessions, and can use a spray gun for larger parts or priming sessions. I called SEM before I started using it, and the person I talked to recommended sealing the primer after applying it to the part because it will actually absorb water. So I've been spraying clear coat over the primer, which can look nice, but it's also a bit of a PITA. I never really looked into 2 part epoxy primers, so that may be a good way to go also, but I suspect will take a bit more planning for small parts, etc.
For the rivet gun, I'm using a 2x and have had to borrow a 3x once or twice. I think I'd go with a 3x and just keep the pressure down for the -3 rivets. There are times when the 2x takes so many hits to set a rivet that the bucking bar slips and you muck up the rivet. I think the 3x is a great benefit in those situations (like riveting the wing ribs to the spar). I would also invest in a tungsten bucking bar- REALLY helps get rivets set quickly.
When it comes time to put the end ribs on your elevators, DON'T follow the directions! I believe they have you rivet the nose and end ribs together first, then rivet the nose rib to the spar. This makes it very hard to get your rivet gun and bucking bar(maybe squeezers would work, I forget) into position. If you put the nose rib on first, it goes on super easy, then it's super easy to rivet the end rib to the nose rib.
Have fun! I'm still trying to unbury myself enough to get back to work on mine
What model Stinson are you working on? I did my tail wheel in a 108-2 and am planning on buying one in the future.
I also used to teach at Aurora airport so it's cool to see someone build one in steps. The factory opened the year I left so I never had a chance to tour.
The Stinson is a 108-1, thread HERE. Currently having the starter rebuilt and drying out some instruments. I met a guy a few weeks ago that can work with me on rebuilding the big engine for it.
The RV is in hibernation mode, hoping to get back on it this winter. This is reason I put quotes around the word spare in the title, haha!!