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    Thread: The list of minimum wires needed for a OBD1 ABA 2.0 to run. AKA Wiring a ABA into a earlier car.

    1. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      10-27-2007 12:21 PM #1
      3 years later, here's a quick refresh and recap (although I haven't owned a OBD1 car in a long time!).

      You should need only 5 wires to make a OBD1 engine run (with original wiring and ECU).

      All these wires will be going to the fuse panel. You can splice them in if you want, or you can wire them in correctly to your fuse panel if you want. If you're going into a CE2 car (i.e. 90.5 onwards mk2 Golf/Jetta, I suggest getting onto A2resource.com and looking at the CE2 charts for this).


      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      WIRES THAT MUST BE CONNECTED FOR THE OBD1 ABA ENGINE TO RUN:

      | WIRE COLOR | WIRE SIZE | FUNCTION | CONNECT TO WHAT? |

      | Black | Thick | Coil Output | +12 switched power |
      | Red/Yellow | Medium | ECU Memory Power (T68/54) | Permanent +12v |
      | Red/Blue | Thick | ECU Power | +12 switched power |
      | Black/Brown | Thin | ECU Power | +12 switched power |
      | Brown/White | Medium | Ground | Ground |

      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      WIRING HINTS

      See that I noted the wire sizes? So should you! Try to match wire sizes, don't connect a tiny power wire to a huge one. Fuse things if you think you should; if you are using a Bentley Manual or A2Resource.com to find a suitable place to draw power from you should be able to safely use your cars original fuses and relays though.

      O2 Sensors, Guages, RPM Limiter ETC
      Remember this is only the wires needed to run. You won't have guages, you car may not charge correctly etc. This all assumes that you've got the engine hooked up correctly to its original wiring, which means you should have a O2 sensor installed. THIS 5 WIRE SETUP WILL NOT PREHEAT YOUR O2 SENSOR! It will however work once it's warmed up enough, and the ECU is smart enough to run without it although maybe not as smoothly as it should be.

      Also, remember that the small blue wire coming from your alt setup should be connected to the small blue wire that was already in your car. You may get lucky and it's charge anyway, but maybe you won't be. Just find it and hook it up, it's easy.

      And finally, the ECU will have a 5,500rpm limit unless you solve that issue. Search for solutions, they're out there, but not in here from me, sorry.

      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      Here's my original notes;

      Black 12 Coil output stage - 12v switched power
      Red/Yellow 14 ECM T68/54 - Needs 12v power
      Red/Blue 12 ECM Power Supply Relay(87)
      Black/Brown 20 ECM T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay)
      Brown/White 16 Engine Block GND
      Just connect those ones. One of the ECU power lines needs to be connected to permanent +12V, the others to switched +12v or ground.

      ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

      If you scroll down further in the thread you'll find a list of nearly all the sensors etc wiring colors. If you really need me to, I could go through and clean that up too, but it should be pretty easy to work out. Have fun, and don't blame me for anything!
      Last edited by the brit; 03-24-2014 at 06:10 PM.
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    2. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      10-27-2007 12:26 PM #2
      From google, http://www.rabbitgtipage.com/S....html:

      This is a partial list of the OBD-1 connections needed to do this swap:

      Color Gauge Description

      Black 12 Coil output stage - 12v switched power
      Yellow/Blue 20 ECM T68/6 - Ground for Fuel Pump Relay(85)
      Red/Yellow 14 ECM T68/54 - Needs 12v power
      Blue/White 20 ECM T68/65 - Speed Input from Instruments
      Yellow 20 20 ECM T68/21 - Transmit to data link connector
      Grey/White 20 ECM T68/43 - Recieve from data link connector
      White/Yellow 20 ECM T68/28 - Ground terminal for O2 Relay(86)
      Red/Blue 20 Splice - to O2 Relay(85)
      Red/White 16 O2 Sensor - O2 Relay(87)
      Red/Yellow 16 Fuel Pump Relay 87 - O2 Relay(30)
      Red/Blue 12 ECM Power Supply Relay(87)
      Black/Brown 20 ECM T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay)
      Blue/White 20 Coolant Sensor - Temperature Gauge
      Yellow 20 Oil Pressure F1 - Oil Pressure Warning Buzzer
      Blue/Black 20 Oil Pressure F22 - Oil Pressure Warning Light
      Brown/White 16 Engine Block GND
      Yellow/Black 20 ECM T68/5 - Check Engine Light
      White/Blue 20 VSS #2(signal) - to speedometer (if A3 cluster installed)
      Green/Black 20 ECM T68/22 - Tach output from ECM, to gauges.

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      10-27-2007 09:58 PM #3
      Worked it out myself.

      You can make a full ABA OBD1 swap run with only 6 wires.

      I will post up the information for others soon.

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      11-03-2007 02:59 PM #4
      watcing cause i a doin this soon
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      11-03-2007 03:07 PM #5
      any info on 0db2? need the bare minimum in my rabbit

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      11-04-2007 12:14 AM #6
      Black 12 Coil output stage - 12v switched power
      Red/Yellow 14 ECM T68/54 - Needs 12v power
      Red/Blue 12 ECM Power Supply Relay(87)
      Black/Brown 20 ECM T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay)
      Brown/White 16 Engine Block GND

      Just connect those ones. One of the ECU power lines needs to be connected to permanent +12V, the others to switched +12v or ground.

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      11-04-2007 09:36 AM #7
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      11-04-2007 09:45 AM #8
      Oh, with the above very short list of wires needed to make it run, you will need to know the following:

      Your o2 sensor pre-heat will likely not be working. The o2 relay clicks, and the o2 sensor should be working okay once it reaching its operating temperature window - it will just rely on the exhaust gas to get it there, which will take a little while longer than the electrical pre-heating.

      Your fuel pump will not switch as usual. I currently have it grounded to work whenever the ignition is on.

      I'll post up more as we work on it further, but for right now the owner just needed the car work decently with a very tight deadline

      edited for o2 sensor info.


      Modified by the brit at 1:35 PM 12-29-2007

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    9. 11-20-2007 08:31 AM #9
      So can anyone help with how the ecu pins are arranged (numbered)? I'm trying to whittle the harness of a 93 jetta into a stand-alone unit to run just the 2.0 ABA I just yanked out and stuffed into my 67 Baja bug. do I need to integrate the data port and the gauge cluster into my existing harness? I'm starting to twitch with the strain of trying to puzzle this one out. I need to get the fuel injection and the ignition running independent of any cluster, hidden wiring in the fusebox, speed sensors, you get the idea. please understand, this is my first wcvw- I've always run aircooled mills, and carb fed engines in general.


      Modified by KarmaGhia at 4:16 PM 11-20-2007

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      11-20-2007 08:41 AM #10
      Quote, originally posted by KarmaGhia »
      So can anyone help with how the ecu pins are arranged (numbered)? I'm trying to whittle the harness of a 93 jetta into a stand-alone unit to run just the 2.0 ABA I just yanked out and stuffed into my 67 Baja bug. do I need to integrate the data port and the gauge cluster into my existing harness? I'm starting to twitch with the strain of trying to puzzle this one out. I need to get the fuel injection and the ignition running independent of any cluster, hidden wiring in the fusebox, speed sensors, you get the idea. please understand, this is my first wcvw- I've always run aircooled mills, and carb fed engines in general.

      Everything in the engine / ecu harness is self-contained. You simply need to connect those wires that I listed, which basically gives that harness power and ground. It will do the rest. You can sit down with your harness and start to cut out / carefully remove everything else that you don't need i.e. speed sensors etc. This will let the car run.

      If you want o2 sensors, to eliminate the speed cut, to have the OBD port hooked up etc, you'll need to connect more stuff, but to make the car run (fine), you can start snipping and connecting!

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      11-20-2007 08:55 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by scr8dubbn »
      any info on 0db2? need the bare minimum in my rabbit

      There seems to be a lot more information about OBD2 out there.

      I just picked up a OBD2 for my Rabbit Sportruck, so i'll be doing the wiring once I get some spare time to mess with it. One thing's for sure though - it looks are though the OBD1 wiring harnesses are a LOT easier to work with, as the OBD2 has the headlights etc all going into the same rats nest..

      I'll post up my notes as I work through it.

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    12. 11-20-2007 04:56 PM #12
      Thanks for you're help brit-
      Now I'm close, but just not quite there... now in this setup you listed, does the ecm still control/adjust the spark timing? What is the speed limiter (rpm, mph?) and what is it's top limit? Will that even work without the ecm getting any speed input/feedback? And where you mentioned "Black/Brown 20 ecm T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay) " what goes in between those quotes? And finally, I guess I didn't express myself clearly- how are the pins numbered? right to left 1-68? Where's my starting point?

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      11-20-2007 05:05 PM #13
      Quote, originally posted by KarmaGhia »
      Thanks for you're help brit-
      Now I'm close, but just not quite there... now in this setup you listed, does the ecm still control/adjust the spark timing? What is the speed limiter (rpm, mph?) and what is it's top limit? Will that even work without the ecm getting any speed input/feedback? And where you mentioned "Black/Brown 20 ecm T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay) " what goes in between those quotes? And finally, I guess I didn't express myself clearly- how are the pins numbered? right to left 1-68? Where's my starting point?

      I'll try to answer everything..

      ECM will always control spark as standard. Without your o2 sensor connected, it won't control everything perfectly, but it will still do everything it needs to.

      The limiter stops you reving above ~5500rpm. Not an issue for regular driving, and there's good write ups about bypassing it elsewhere.

      "ECM " "(85 as marked on relay) " what goes in between those quotes?" - it's a way of saying 'same as above' - in other words, it's doing the exact same thing as the wire above it.

      I have no idea how the pins are numbered I'm afraid. However, most VW connectors have reeeeeally small little numbers printed on them. You do not need to know the pins at the ECU, as everything is colour coded at the other end - use the fuse panel connections to attach the applicable wires to where they need to go.

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    14. 11-21-2007 06:47 AM #14
      Ok- thanks for your understanding and patience- I'm gonna go dive in at see what I can accomplish here. Wish me luck folks.

      BTW- seeings as I don't know WCVW's all that well, I don't know how much help I can be to you folks, but should any of you have questions pertaining to Air cooled VW's.... give me a shout. I worked at a ACVW restoration shop for several years and the owner still calls me in from time to time on difficult welding and tuning jobs. Always happy to help fellow BahnStormers...


    15. 11-22-2007 09:12 AM #15
      Ok- thanks for your understanding and patience- I'm gonna go dive in at see what I can accomplish here. Wish me luck folks.

      BTW- seeings as I don't know WCVW's all that well, I don't know how much help I can be to you folks, but should any of you have questions pertaining to Air cooled VW's.... give me a shout. I worked at a ACVW restoration shop for several years and the owner still calls me in from time to time on difficult welding and tuning jobs. Always happy to help fellow BahnStormers...


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      11-22-2007 09:18 AM #16
      how boute a mk2 gti vr6.obd2

    17. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      11-22-2007 10:02 AM #17
      Quote, originally posted by wolfy19 »
      how boute a mk2 gti vr6.obd2

      Into a '86? Swap in a CE2 wiring cluster?

      I haven't done one, so I can't help. Searching will probably bring up a bunch, or else pay me and my mk2 and mk3 bentley manuals to fly out to Washington for Xmas

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      11-22-2007 01:33 PM #18
      hahaha,sounds like a plan

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      11-25-2007 09:55 AM #19
      Quote, originally posted by austin neuschafer »
      in the above list you need the eng speed sensor

      From the trans? You don't need it to make it run.

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    20. 11-25-2007 12:10 PM #20
      Ok- thanks for your understanding and patience- I'm gonna go dive in at see what I can accomplish here. Wish me luck folks.

      BTW- seeings as I don't know WCVW's all that well, I don't know how much help I can be to you folks, but should any of you have questions pertaining to Air cooled VW's.... give me a shout. I worked at a ACVW restoration shop for several years and the owner still calls me in from time to time on difficult welding and tuning jobs. Always happy to help fellow BahnStormers...


    21. 11-25-2007 12:14 PM #21
      sorry about the multiple posts folks- I guess my pc just wanted to talk to you folks some more...

    22. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      11-25-2007 03:31 PM #22
      Quote, originally posted by austin neuschafer »
      from the toothed wheel on the crank

      You need a whole array of wires from on, in and around the engine, but they are all self-contained in the wiring harness to the ECU. Once you've got those all connected, the listed wires above are all that you need to actually connect to the vehicle, no matter what type of wiring the car had originally. I think that's what we mean anyway.

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    23. 11-28-2007 01:51 AM #23
      Just wanted to drop a quick note to say thanks a whole lot! Took my 67 for a quick spin tonight, ran great! A buddy of mine stopped by with his 94 Jetta and tried it out too- he seems to think it is getting a signal from the o2 sensor- that the relay is for the o2 preheater. We're going to do some more testing wed- we'll post what we find.

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      11-28-2007 09:17 AM #24
      Quote, originally posted by KarmaGhia »
      Just wanted to drop a quick note to say thanks a whole lot! Took my 67 for a quick spin tonight, ran great! A buddy of mine stopped by with his 94 Jetta and tried it out too- he seems to think it is getting a signal from the o2 sensor- that the relay is for the o2 preheater. We're going to do some more testing wed- we'll post what we find.

      Quite possibly, haha. It's just going to take a while before it comes within acceptable windows of readings. Good deal

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    25. 12-10-2007 11:35 AM #25
      I'm using this post to put an ABA in my pickup. I'm having a problem with the following and hope you can help me. I'm still improving my "electrical skills " I'm using an aftermarket relay for power and have the following connected:
      Red/Blue 12 ECM Power Supply Relay(87)
      Black/Brown 20 ECM T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay)
      Terminal 30 - 12v power
      Terminal 86 - controller (switched power)
      My question is about the brown/white engine block ground. It is grounded through the harness to the front of the block, but what has to be done to ground the ECU? As it is, the relay has no ground to close the circuit, and I'm not sure what is the best way to ground it. I hope this makes sense. Any help is appreciated. Also..after its all said and done, how can I know the ECU is powering up before I turn the key?

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      12-10-2007 11:44 AM #26
      Quote, originally posted by Dubluva »
      I'm using this post to put an ABA in my pickup. I'm having a problem with the following and hope you can help me. I'm still improving my "electrical skills " I'm using an aftermarket relay for power and have the following connected:
      Red/Blue 12 ECM Power Supply Relay(87)
      Black/Brown 20 ECM T68/9 - ECM " "(85 as marked on relay)
      Terminal 30 - 12v power
      Terminal 86 - controller (switched power)
      My question is about the brown/white engine block ground. It is grounded through the harness to the front of the block, but what has to be done to ground the ECU? As it is, the relay has no ground to close the circuit, and I'm not sure what is the best way to ground it. I hope this makes sense. Any help is appreciated. Also..after its all said and done, how can I know the ECU is powering up before I turn the key?

      Brown/White at the panel end, should just be connected to any suitable ground. I'm not sure if this goes directly to the ECU or not, but the wires that I listed gives it everything that it needs.

      If you're installing your own relay to provide the power (I used existing wires from the factory relay panel), you'll just need to give it suitable power and ground too. You should not ground the relay using the ground wire from the engine harness - they both need to be grounded to the -ve of the battery, via the body of the car usually. I'm not sure if that's what you meant, but i think it might be.

      I do not know of a way to test for the ECU being on without cranking the car, sorry. As long as it's getting power and a ground, it should be one, but won't actually output much until it sees spark (from my understanding). Maybe the bentley provides some pinout tests for the ECU? Just be careful with your wiring and you should be A-OK.

      On a related note, i just installed my ODB2 ABA into my rabbit truck - if anyone has a spare ODB1 harness, i'd love to switch mine over

      | Orchid Euro Importation |

      Currently driving or working on too many cars...
      | '93 Fox 16v - PVW | '99 Greenland Polo Diesel | '89 Rallye Golf | '83 Golf GTi RHD | '75 Swallowtail |
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    27. Member austin neuschafer's Avatar
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      12-12-2007 12:30 PM #27
      hey. I spent the last 2 nights going thru the diagram from a 95 jetta. and writing up each and every pin to the ecu and what it's for. and even the pin's that are not there.

      I also made a note of which ones where hard wired from the ecu to the sensor or ground point that do not need to be modified or altered.

      LMK if u are want this info. I can post it up tonight or send you a link to. BTW I am also a electronics tech if that gives you some reassurance

      87 rocco 2l16v MS3 02a/j with 4.24 on LSD. 91 rado geting 1.8t, 02 cabrio geting vr6, 04 r32 vf stg 2 sc, and a few other goodies

    28. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      12-12-2007 12:35 PM #28
      Post up whatever you've got - there's a good chance someone will need it at some point
      | Orchid Euro Importation |

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      | '76 Alfa Romeo Spider | '99 Lupo 1.4TDI-S | '82 Caddy 1.9D | '85 VW LT35 | '96 VW LT35D | '03 SpintLT35 | '02 GTI 337 | '03 GTI 20v | '90 Jetta 8v |
      | '09 Aprilia RS125 | '81 Kawasaki AR80 | '59 NSU Quickly | '64 Honda Cub C65 + '65 C105 | Trek Madone 7.9 | Trek Crockett 9 |

    29. Member austin neuschafer's Avatar
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      12-12-2007 12:36 PM #29
      here is a little baout the car it is going into http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3569475
      87 rocco 2l16v MS3 02a/j with 4.24 on LSD. 91 rado geting 1.8t, 02 cabrio geting vr6, 04 r32 vf stg 2 sc, and a few other goodies

    30. Member austin neuschafer's Avatar
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      12-12-2007 11:58 PM #30
      should i use coil signal, or ecu signal for rocco 16v cluster???


      BTW I finished the cab area of my harness. and will post up the ecu pin by pin. imine is from a 95 jetta


      Modified by austin neuschafer at 12:24 PM 12-13-2007

      87 rocco 2l16v MS3 02a/j with 4.24 on LSD. 91 rado geting 1.8t, 02 cabrio geting vr6, 04 r32 vf stg 2 sc, and a few other goodies

    31. 12-26-2007 10:44 AM #31
      I meant to post this earlier, but i goe mine started last week with the help from this post! Thanks alot for everything and i'll post some pics as it gets closer to being road worthy.
      Thanks

    32. Member austin neuschafer's Avatar
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      12-26-2007 02:30 PM #32
      is yours aba or 16v bottom end
      87 rocco 2l16v MS3 02a/j with 4.24 on LSD. 91 rado geting 1.8t, 02 cabrio geting vr6, 04 r32 vf stg 2 sc, and a few other goodies

    33. 12-28-2007 12:51 AM #33
      Complete Aba from a 1995 jetta. I'm using only the engine harness spliced into the rabbit stuff. The following is what's left before it'll be road ready (off the top of my head):
      Exhaust downpipe
      Front wheel bearings
      Brakes
      Shift linkage
      Axles
      Cooling system installed
      Alternator
      Serp belt/ crank pulley setup (which i'll need some advice with)
      Fuel filter
      Misc lights
      water coming in the passenger door when it rains

      That's all i can remember for now, but it should be ready soon!
      Can't wait and thanks again for all the help.


    34. Moderator the brit's Avatar
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      12-28-2007 01:15 AM #34
      Quote, originally posted by Dubluva »
      Complete Aba from a 1995 jetta. I'm using only the engine harness spliced into the rabbit stuff. The following is what's left before it'll be road ready (off the top of my head):
      Exhaust downpipe
      Front wheel bearings
      Brakes
      Shift linkage
      Axles
      Cooling system installed
      Alternator
      Serp belt/ crank pulley setup (which i'll need some advice with)
      Fuel filter
      Misc lights
      water coming in the passenger door when it rains

      That's all i can remember for now, but it should be ready soon!
      Can't wait and thanks again for all the help.

      That's about the same list that I have for my new OBD2 swap I'm running a ABF alt setup, and am going to try to design a different solution for the downpipe - maybe try to cut and weld the stock pipe. Good luck with your swap!

      | Orchid Euro Importation |

      Currently driving or working on too many cars...
      | '93 Fox 16v - PVW | '99 Greenland Polo Diesel | '89 Rallye Golf | '83 Golf GTi RHD | '75 Swallowtail |
      | '76 Alfa Romeo Spider | '99 Lupo 1.4TDI-S | '82 Caddy 1.9D | '85 VW LT35 | '96 VW LT35D | '03 SpintLT35 | '02 GTI 337 | '03 GTI 20v | '90 Jetta 8v |
      | '09 Aprilia RS125 | '81 Kawasaki AR80 | '59 NSU Quickly | '64 Honda Cub C65 + '65 C105 | Trek Madone 7.9 | Trek Crockett 9 |

    35. 12-29-2007 01:16 PM #35
      Dumb question, but how important is it to the driveability that the O2 sensor be operational. I'm not concerned about smog, but gas mileage of course is important, and farther up in the post it states that the o2 sensor will not be connected when following this wiring setup. Thanks

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