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    VWVortex


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    Thread: replacing oil cooler o-ring

    1. 11-25-2007 10:44 AM #1
      Due due the recent cold weather, the oil cooler o-ring on my 1997 Jetta has gone bad and has caused a nasty oil leak. The part is really cheap and I'm hoping that it's easy to replace. What's the most effective way to replace the oil cooler o-ring?? Thanks guys

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      11-25-2007 11:04 AM #2
      There is a write up out there. I was able to do it without disconnecting any hoses. IIRC, take the filter off, undo the large nut at the top of the threaded tube the filter screws on to with a deep well socket (27mm). Push the cooler down off the tube. Get all of the old ring off. Put the new one on and put it back together. Be careful with the hoses, though. Take a couple of pictures for the next guy, huh?

    3. 11-25-2007 01:45 PM #3
      Just be really careful not to crack the plastic thermostat housing while prying the oil cooler down off the center threaded tube. If the engine is really cool then maybe let her idle for 30 seconds or so just to take the chill out of the water & soften plastics & hoses a little.

      If I remember correctly, someone was able to remove the center threaded tube after removing the nut. With that done you don't have to pry down the cooler block to access the o-ring.

      I did it without without removing cooling hoses.


    4. 12-04-2007 04:52 PM #4
      ok guys. thanks for your advice. the new o-ring i ordered finally came in and i began working on replacing the old one. i removed the big nut below on the thread to which the oil filter screws on to. I started to slide the oil filter housing down on the thread and noticed that the oil cooler o-ring was brittle and broken into 3 pieces. No surprises that it's no good. Because it was broken, it was easy to remove from the housing without having to slide down the filter housing off of the thread. I spent about an hour trying to slide the oil filter housing down off the thread, but I could not get it off completely and I felt that I was really beginning to stretch the 2 hoses that are connected to it. I realized that maybe the whole process would be a lot easier if I removed the hoses (or at least the top hose) so that the housing would slide down easier. I don't know if it is because I'm an idiot or just not focused, but I can't get the clamp off. It appears to be a squeeze clamp and I spent a long time with some pliers trying to squeeze it off, but I am still unsuccessful. Is there a tool or a better technique to get that clamp off? I'm feel like I'm really screwed unless I can get that hose off. Thanks fellas

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      12-04-2007 06:13 PM #5
      Hose clamp pliers. They make a special tool for everything! It is hard to get at that clamp.

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      12-04-2007 06:15 PM #6

    7. 12-04-2007 07:43 PM #7
      You need to unscrew the threaded tube with a vise-grip. This will allow you to get the O-ring out without fighting the coolant. hoses. Lock it right on the threads. It's not in too tight. If your already past this point and taking off hoses use small needle nose vise grips and get the hoses back on and start over with taking the threaded tube out. Eventually fighting hoses you will lose and it will cost you.

    8. 12-04-2007 08:25 PM #8
      I'm going to give the hose clamp pliers a try. Looks they should work just fine (sucks they're $30, but I think it's a good investment).

    9. Member ps2375's Avatar
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      12-04-2007 08:54 PM #9
      The hose clamps don't make it much easier, cause getting the clamps off is alot easier than putting them back. I really had to fight when I replaced my cooler. And I just did the seal for someone, slide the cooler down enough to get some pliers/vice grips between the cooler and mount and remove the tube, then you don't damage any threads that you need. With the tube out, things go WAY easier.
      Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

    10. 12-04-2007 09:05 PM #10
      Exactly stop playing games with clamps and hoses. Pull the threaded tube my way or his way.

    11. 12-04-2007 09:25 PM #11
      so what you're telling me is that I don't have to take the cooler off...all I have to do is pull the cooler down enough so that I can take the tube off with pliers without having to removing the unit? seems too easy. is the tube screwed onto anything??

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      12-04-2007 09:46 PM #12
      oil filter flange

    13. 12-05-2007 02:42 PM #13
      is it as simple as pulling the tube down or is the tube (flange) screwed into the top of the unit that sticks out from the engine block???

    14. Member ps2375's Avatar
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      12-05-2007 06:28 PM #14
      its screwed into the oil filter flange.
      Tradition is the art of making the same mistake repeatedly, on purpose.

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      01-06-2008 04:57 PM #15
      I got the same leak when it got cold. I also got my oil cooler off without removing the hoses.

      Top view before removal.

      Bottom view before removal, without oil filter.

      Top view after removal.

      I haven't got the new o-ring yet, but it should be a breeze to install.


      Modified by BGKYJettaOwner at 1:02 PM 1-6-2008


      Modified by BGKYJettaOwner at 1:06 PM 1-6-2008


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      01-07-2008 02:40 AM #16
      why fight the hoses anyway, drain the coolant down a bit and take the hoses off and get to the o ring, and you might as well take a look at the coolant inlet and outlet fittings as well, mine were pitting from corrosion and were about to spring a major leak, but some JB Weld solved that.

    17. 01-07-2008 09:33 PM #17
      Actually it's pretty easy once the tube is removed had to replace my oil cooler o-ring last week. Took me three hours, a few trips to the auto parts store and alot of $*@* ing. Hate useing vise grips but that's what I ended up doing.

    18. 01-26-2008 01:36 PM #18
      idk what kind of 2 liter you have but mine has a much different hose set up than that.
      Much more of a hassle to get to, and they will not twist up and away while still being attached to the cooler.
      Anyway I tried to get the oil filter union off and all i did was gall the threads.
      Now what?
      Also what kind of vice grips are you ablr to get into that small of an area?
      Im gonna try to get a bigger pair of vice grips on the union and see if they will fit upp in there.
      Most likely have to order a new union from vw 25 bucks.
      Cheaper than cutting (2) 40 dollar hoses that I wont be able to put the new ones back on anyway.


    19. Member pedrosan's Avatar
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      01-27-2008 04:00 PM #19
      Right on the money.
      Quote, originally posted by ps2375 »
      The hose clamps don't make it much easier, cause getting the clamps off is alot easier than putting them back. I really had to fight when I replaced my cooler. And I just did the seal for someone, slide the cooler down enough to get some pliers/vice grips between the cooler and mount and remove the tube, then you don't damage any threads that you need. With the tube out, things go WAY easier.

    20. 12-29-2008 06:29 PM #20
      Ok I Had to do the same replace oil cooler Oring, I am just wondering if I have the correct Oring or it is a universal one they use now The one I picked up has 2 ea small tabs with holes part # 038117070A , It look the same size , but dealer is closed and want to know if this is the right one to use. The one I took of was just round.

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      12-29-2008 09:08 PM #21
      yeah man had me confused as I did this before on my last 96 gti. When I opened it it had the tabs stock, replaced it with the O-ring I ordered that came w/ tabs. This car opened it up (actually just a few days ago) and had me kinda confused. The stock O-ring didn't have tabs, the replacement did, just like last time.
      Drove down to the dealer 'cause I just wanted to make sure I had the right seal, and not do this again in a few weeks. Turns out just another one of those things they changed. All replacement O-rings have tabs and vehicles from '97 on. So stated the parts guy. Obviously, some '96's had the tabs also (as my last '96 did)


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      12-31-2008 02:00 PM #22
      when i replaced my wife's oil cooler/flange oring this time last year, i used a stud remover to remove the tube w/o damaging it...makes the job a lot easier and only took me 15 minutes...

    23. 01-04-2009 10:04 AM #23
      FEW. i thought that i needed to replace my oil cooler, apparently not I can deal with a 5 dollar part.

      One question, did you folks who have done this do it on a lift? as i look at it it seems like access is impossible from the top.

      Thanks


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      01-04-2009 10:21 AM #24
      I did most of it from up top, but got under the front to get the nut loose. Just jacked the front end up, but I didn't have snow on the ground in my FL driveway!

    25. 01-04-2009 10:44 AM #25
      Well givin the temp. <10 I need to find a shop to work in. It looks like i'm going for one with a lift.

    26. 01-04-2009 02:33 PM #26
      I don't know what the unit is above my oil filter, some electric fan/blow/compressor of some sort, but did folks who have done this taken that off, I have no access to the cooler from above, so i guess i need to go at it from the bottom?

    27. 01-06-2009 11:07 AM #27
      took an hour up on the lift. no access from the top. Biggest problem was finding a socket for the nut.

    28. 01-22-2009 07:20 PM #28
      Did mine today after letting the car sit for 2 weeks. after replacing the downpipe, it started pissing yesterday.

      Gasket - VW dealer - $5 (several in stock)
      Oil and filter $15 autozone
      1 1/16 deep socket at autozone $6
      can of brake cleaner $3 autozone

      Time - 1 hour.

      Old gasket came out in about a dozen pieces. new gasket had the little loops to hook onto the cooler.

      pipe came out with a pair of needle nose pliers.

      Tightened the nut against the old filter to tighten the pipe back into the cooler. Removed the filter and tightened the nut.

      With this thread it was a breeze! I was originally looking at the 2 allen bolts in the top to the adapter going to the block hoping I didn't have to take those corroded SOBs out.

      Thanks!


    29. 01-25-2009 07:39 PM #29
      do you have to drain the oil to remove the oil cooler

    30. 01-25-2009 07:40 PM #30
      i have oil in my car still and the filter. When I take it off am I going to need to drain the oil first or can I just do the job

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      01-25-2009 08:02 PM #31
      Remove the filter. No need to drain the crankcase.

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      01-26-2009 10:38 AM #32

    33. 02-07-2009 04:24 PM #33
      I'm the one who installed my oil filter like 2 weeks ago and for whatever reason it's not coming off again. There is a bar or a plate that runs across underneath where the filter is so I cant get a filter wrench in there and I dont know what else to do. I cant fit anything, screw driver trick etc. Anyone know if thats something that can be removed easily? Or have suggestions on how to get the filter off. Its on there tight as a $@$% right now

    34. 04-12-2009 09:00 AM #34
      You can get the tube off without using vice grips! I went to a hardware store with an old oil filter and matched the threads, and bought two nuts that size. I think it was 3/4 size nut with 16 grade threads.
      1. screw nut A. on to threaded tube
      2. screw nut B. on to threaded tube up against nut A., they will lock together and create a bolt
      3. using a wrench unscrew nut A., nut B. will hold it onto the tube so you should be able to turn the tube right out of the housing.
      4. replace O-ring and put back together the same way you took it off, only this time turn nut B. while nut A. holds it in place and you should be able to turn the tube back in.
      If you can't find the right size nuts at the hardware store you could use the one nut that holds the oil cooler and an oil filter.

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      04-12-2009 01:24 PM #35
      Jamb nut. Good suggestion.

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