Before reading! If any of you guys have a question about this, post AND send me a PM about it! I don't check this thread that often anymore, but am more than happy to help you guys out with Q's you may have! 3/23/11
As most of you out there know, it is VERY hard to search for anything on stock turbo removal on the 1.8t and or anything on the Ko4-20 kit from an Audi TT without going through ridiculous threads that are pages long and missing pictures. So i decided to end that!
My Ko3s was starting to blowup, so i decided to go with IMO the most reliable and power friendly turbo for the 1.8t, the Ko4-20 from the 225hp Audi TT. After doing numerous hours of research, i finally decided to go with this turbo over the GT28rs because of the reliability of it and the low low maintenance of it. I drive to and from school all the time, and really don't want any problems with it.
I bought the kit off of a fellow vortex'er on here named "Kiddo" for $1000, the kit came with the following (which is what you'll need as well in order to do this install, the items in bold will be parts you need to buy in addition also
- Ko4-20 Turbo
- Audi TT Exhaust Manifold
- Audi TT Turbo inlet pipe (Ko3 Forge TIP's will NOT work with this turbo)
- Audi TT 2.5" Down-pipe flange (if you don't have an aftermarket cat back, GET ONE before you do this install, and you're going to have the DP custom welded, or buy an aftermarket Audi TT DP)
- Bosch White top injectors (though i recommend OEM TT injectors from the AMU motor or Genesis 380cc injectors, which i will explain later)
- (2) Coolant lines
- (2) Oil lines
- Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Gasket ($15 from dealer)
- Down-pipe Gasket (3 bolt, triangle looking, around $15 from dealer)
- (2) Oil return/ feed line gaskets
- (11) New manifold bolts and washers
- Manifold to block gasket
- (7-10) Copper washers for the coolant lines and oil lines (i say 7-10 so you'll have extras just in case you misplace them as it's easy to do so)
- Audi TT 3" MAF (from the AMU motor again, 2001 Audi TT 225hp)
- New Cone filter or Audi TT airbox (cheaper to just get a 3" cone filter)
- (3) Down-pipe Bolts
- (3) Turbo to Exhaust Mani bolts (ask for Ko4 bolts from Audi dealer)
- (4) NGK BKR7E Spark plugs ( found at local part stores for cheap)
- I'll be using the Stock 3 bar FPR, GIAC only needs that.(or 4 bar, depedning on your tune)
- For the STOCK INTERCOOLER GUYS OUT THERE: you'll also need the Audi TT upper intercooler pipe with a 90 degree silicone hose (the red hose in the picture)and most importantly:
- Ko4-20 Tune from APR,GIAC,REVO, etc. I personally went with GIAC because i already had the X+ chip in my car and it was only a $150 upgrade (for the 93 oct. file, but I also got the race file with it too ). I also went with GIAC because of how happy I was with their X+ chip for the ko3, it was so aggressive, I loved it.
Here's a pic of everything not in bold:
I would advise before you go out and by all the copper washers, remove the stock lines, take the washers from them and then go to the parts store. There are 2 different sizes per washers and they're the same size for the new lines.
Also be sure to have enough tools and supplies around, we used the following:
- 125 piece tool set
- Set of Allen wrenches
- Torx drivers (star nuts)
- Welder (just for exhaust work)
- Plenty of paper towels
- Turkey pans (good for oil and coolant)
- Dunkin' Donuts
Now the Breakdown of the car starts. Be SURE to have at least 2-3 days laid out where you can keep the car, in a garage, and have some buddies of yours help you out...Start EARLY in the morning, so that you have most of the day to work, doing with daylight just made it easier. We thought we could have this done in a day, but we were wrong. Me and my 5 friends started on Friday and finished on Sunday, and we all have a lot of automotive experience under our belts.
Now well I have a FMIC, I’ll try my best to advise the Stock intercooler people out there what to do as well, even tho I HIGHLY recommend getting a FMIC or upgraded SMIC. If you think you have bad heat soak with a ko3, forget about it with the ko4.
First things first, jack the car up and take the front bumper off(more space to work with under there) and take off the neg. side of the battery (for safety)
I decided to clean my MAP sensor before doing anything to the car, and I advise most of you to do the same, if you haven’t in a while, it'd be a good idea. You want the car to be getting a proper boost reading for the new turbo
After doing that, you want to start from the back of the motor and work forward, so start out by removing the downpipe and engine heat shield (a few bolts). For you STOCK INTERCOOLER guys, you'll need to remove the upper intercooler pipe, mounts and bolts now as well.
(Look for one coolant line right below the DP flange)
While you're underneath the car, have a buddy of your start disconnecting the Air filter or box, MAF and everything connected to the Turbo inlet pipe. Once that's done, while you're still under the car, remove the turbo inlet pipe bolt (for stock TIP's) or undo the clamp of the aftermarket Turbo inlet, removing it as well. When taking the Turbo inlet off, make a note of where that vacuum line connects from back of the TIP to the back of the motor as you'll need to re-connect that with the TT turbo inlet pipe.
Below: everything just listed removed
Here's all the parts that just got taken out:
Now take a peak at that stock turbo! So small!
and after you've gotten this far, be sure to take a water/food break, it's always good to stay energized while working, fatigue is the worst when working on cars.
After re-fueling, start taking off the coolant lines. Be SURE to get the turkey pan under there before you start doing this or coolant will be all over your work space, not good. Here's the first coolant line located right next to the cam gear cover and by the round coolant tank, here are 2 pictures of this line disconnected
and this is that same coolant line from underneath the car:
Proper turkey pan placement:
Next located and remove the next coolant line, which is write under the exhaust side of the turbo, circled in this picture (already removed)
and here it is again, that silver line right underneath the DP
After letting these 2 lines drip out into the pan, get back under there and find the oil lines. one of them is located right on the oil pan, and looks like this:
The next oil line is located at the front of the motor, right on top of the oil filter base. It’s a silver nut with a silver braided line coming from it leading to the back of the motor. It’s pretty easy to spot. Reach in like Jason is in this picture from under the intake mani:
After letting that line drain out, it’s time to take the turbo off the manifold! undo the 3 bolts holding it onto the manifold and it should start to slide out. In order to take it out, you need to discount that FRONT oil line, which should be pretty obvious as the braided oil line runs to the front of the motor. Once that is disconnected, the turbo can be wiggled out!
When the turbo is out, go ahead and wiggle that front oil line off that you disconnected from the turbo. I advise, this is a PAIN in the neck. It's in the worst area to be wiggled from and the only way to get it out is to bend the bracket that it was attached to on top of the oil filter base to the middle of the line so that it flows smoothly through all the other lines on the side of the motor. Without bending that bracket it will be impossible to get out. Don't be discouraged though, if you get tired while doing it, TAKE A BREAK FROM IT, you don't want to get frustrated and rip or tear a rubber hose because you're not working efficiently.
The next few pictures is the ko4-20 next to the ko3, I’m removing the lines from the turbo to get at the copper gaskets needed for the new lines (which we then went over to AutoZone and got new gaskets) I must point out here to NOT over tighten the banjo lines on ANY of the coolant or oil lines as they will strip. Snug them WELL, but don't over tighten them.
Side by Side
and hold em up to feel the power difference like chief does here
While the turbo is out, and your friends are running to the store to grab those copper washers, take out the stock exhaust mani! There are 11 bolts on the manifold, which can be taken out pretty easily, just use a moderately sized breaker bar and you should be fine. (mine had 90k on it when we took it out and it was no big deal at all)
Now the back of your motor should look like this(all the oil on the axle is from the dripping oil lines, don't worry):
-Refueling time now for you and your work crew -
Refueled, go back to the Ko4 and start putting the oil and coolant lines on EXCEPT FOR the front OIL LINE as you have to put this in before cuz its hard to wiggle in as it is, can’t imagine how hard it'd be to do it while attached to the turbo. Make note that you have to bend the bracket a TAD, not as much as you did with the stock one to get it into place.
Please also make note to NOT connect the front of that front oil line to the oil filter base until AFTER you bolt the turbo to the manifold.
Now start taking out the coil packs and get rid of those stock plugs, with the amount of boost you'll be running on this turbo, you're gunna need colder plugs. I went with NGK BKR7E plugs.
Spark plugs and coil packs in, we next test fitted the turbo and manifold, and tried to get the Turbo inlet on. Mind you this takes some time to get everything in. Now from many frustrating hours of work wasted, we realized that the heater core line had to be cut in order to get the Turbo inlet pipe on the turbo.
Test fitment on the turbo with the lines:
Im sorry to say that i don't have a pic of the cut heater core line at this time but i can walk you through it. These two lines are the lines in question:
The heater core line right off of the temperature sensor (bottom left of pic, its a little green sensor) needs to be ran underneath the turbo, up the heat shield and into its proper line mount. The lower one, pretty hard to see in the pic, but can definitely tell from looking in the engine bay, is a hard line into a soft line. The hard metal line needs to be cut about 3 inches, just before the line starts to become flat on one side so that you can still clamp to it. Once you cut that with the Sawz-all from the top of the motor, take that line and run it under and up the right side of the yellow brake fluid reservoir (located on the right side of the pic, has a yellow cap and the word MAX on it.) and in between the little fuse box (the black box on the right side of the pic). After running it in-between those, run it over to its connector, making sure NOT TO CRIMP any of those 2 lines.
I did that by using a lot of male to male connectors (the size of the heater core, I think 3/8? I can’t remember at the moment) a lot of 90 degree bend heater core lines and clamps.
Once that is done, you're pretty much in the clear. Start by fitting the turbo inlet pipe properly, it should have a clear pathway now that the heater core lines are out of the way. Make sure everything is clearly properly and not hitting anything, like we're doing here:
With all that done, TAKE ANOTHER BREAK! and or sleep, so far this is 2 days of work that we did. A result of not taking breaks, lol:
^^DONT LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU!^^
Now i had a couple of my friends start working on getting the downpipe and test pipe cut and welded. I had previously a 2.5" GHL Down-pipe that i had on the car, so we cut it up and used it for the 2.5" Audi TT downpipe. Here chief is cutting the stock flange off the DP:
After cutting the flange off, we cut the rest of the downpipe up, leaving the flex pipe out, for a good reason. When we cut the downpipe up, we could see the flex pipe crystal clear. To my absolute HORROR this is what I saw:
I could not believe this, absolute JUNK, this DP has been on my car for 9 months now and I have no idea how long it’s been like this. But just IMAGINE the backpressure from that damn thing, that second pic is the side that the turbo was trying to push exhaust through. We measured the hole and it was ONLY open a 1/4 of an INCH! FANTASTIC! I don't know who to blame: GHL or the makers of the flex pipe or GHL for using that JUNK of a flex pipe. You be the judge.
After that catastrophe of an old downpipe, they started welding the test pipe:
While they were welding the DP, i started pulling the injectors, and put the white tops in, with their appropriate spacers(circled in yellow)
I understand that not everyone has a welder at their disposal and or knows how to weld, so one thing you can do is bring the TT down pipe flange and have it welded, here is a pic of how it looks installed:
The front o2 is sticking up in that pic and the downpipe snakes down from there, here's my best drawing of it
Now its time to start buttoning everything up!
Start by getting the turbo and lines in the FIRST before you put the manifold on, as it will b hard/impossible to get it in without the manifold there. Connect the END of that front oil line to it but NOT the front of it (the side going to the oil filter base). Once that's connected with the proper copper gaskets, get the exhaust manifold gasket on the studs. Now get the manifold on the studs, get the new washers and nuts on there and start tightening! Tighten them well, but not so much to strip.
Make sure to put the turbo to mani gasket on top of the turbo before installing!
here's the turbo installed on the manifold:
After that, start installing the coolant and oil lines. Go back on how to remove them and trace the steps backwards on how to install them. It's pretty straight forward on where they go once the turbo's in place. Just make sure all the banjo bolts (the bolts on the lines) have proper gaskets on them and that you match the oil line on the oil with the right set of gaskets. Make sure to NOT over tighten these like i said before.
Now get the downpipe put in. Make sure to install the downpipe to turbo gasket before installing the downpipe. Tighten the nuts well, they should seal properly with a good snug.
With all the lines good and tight, now its time to get the turbo inlet pipe on. Put it on the turbo and tighten the clamp on it, make sure this is TIGHT! with it in the right place, start installing the Diverter valve, N75 valve, vacuum line connecting to the back of the motor, PCV valve, MAF, and Filter.
Modified by J-tec at 8:00 AM 11-27-2007
Modified by J-tec at 8:20 AM 11-27-2007
Modified by J-tec at 8:32 AM 11-27-2007