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    Thread: Stock Turbo Removal & Ko4-20 Install: My DIY

    1. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 01:18 AM #1
      Before reading! If any of you guys have a question about this, post AND send me a PM about it! I don't check this thread that often anymore, but am more than happy to help you guys out with Q's you may have! 3/23/11

      As most of you out there know, it is VERY hard to search for anything on stock turbo removal on the 1.8t and or anything on the Ko4-20 kit from an Audi TT without going through ridiculous threads that are pages long and missing pictures. So i decided to end that!
      My Ko3s was starting to blowup, so i decided to go with IMO the most reliable and power friendly turbo for the 1.8t, the Ko4-20 from the 225hp Audi TT. After doing numerous hours of research, i finally decided to go with this turbo over the GT28rs because of the reliability of it and the low low maintenance of it. I drive to and from school all the time, and really don't want any problems with it.

      I bought the kit off of a fellow vortex'er on here named "Kiddo" for $1000, the kit came with the following (which is what you'll need as well in order to do this install, the items in bold will be parts you need to buy in addition also

      - Ko4-20 Turbo
      - Audi TT Exhaust Manifold
      - Audi TT Turbo inlet pipe (Ko3 Forge TIP's will NOT work with this turbo)
      - Audi TT 2.5" Down-pipe flange (if you don't have an aftermarket cat back, GET ONE before you do this install, and you're going to have the DP custom welded, or buy an aftermarket Audi TT DP)
      - Bosch White top injectors (though i recommend OEM TT injectors from the AMU motor or Genesis 380cc injectors, which i will explain later)
      - (2) Coolant lines
      - (2) Oil lines
      - Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Gasket ($15 from dealer)
      - Down-pipe Gasket (3 bolt, triangle looking, around $15 from dealer)
      - (2) Oil return/ feed line gaskets
      - (11) New manifold bolts and washers
      - Manifold to block gasket
      - (7-10) Copper washers for the coolant lines and oil lines (i say 7-10 so you'll have extras just in case you misplace them as it's easy to do so)
      - Audi TT 3" MAF (from the AMU motor again, 2001 Audi TT 225hp)
      - New Cone filter or Audi TT airbox (cheaper to just get a 3" cone filter)
      - (3) Down-pipe Bolts
      - (3) Turbo to Exhaust Mani bolts (ask for Ko4 bolts from Audi dealer)
      - (4) NGK BKR7E Spark plugs ( found at local part stores for cheap)
      - I'll be using the Stock 3 bar FPR, GIAC only needs that.(or 4 bar, depedning on your tune)
      - For the STOCK INTERCOOLER GUYS OUT THERE: you'll also need the Audi TT upper intercooler pipe with a 90 degree silicone hose (the red hose in the picture)
      and most importantly:
      - Ko4-20 Tune from APR,GIAC,REVO, etc. I personally went with GIAC because i already had the X+ chip in my car and it was only a $150 upgrade (for the 93 oct. file, but I also got the race file with it too ). I also went with GIAC because of how happy I was with their X+ chip for the ko3, it was so aggressive, I loved it.

      Here's a pic of everything not in bold:

      I would advise before you go out and by all the copper washers, remove the stock lines, take the washers from them and then go to the parts store. There are 2 different sizes per washers and they're the same size for the new lines.

      Also be sure to have enough tools and supplies around, we used the following:

      - 125 piece tool set
      - Saws-all
      - Set of Allen wrenches
      - Torx drivers (star nuts)
      - Welder (just for exhaust work)
      - Plenty of paper towels
      - Turkey pans (good for oil and coolant)
      - Dunkin' Donuts
      - Beer
      - Water
      - Pizza
      - Boombox

      Now the Breakdown of the car starts. Be SURE to have at least 2-3 days laid out where you can keep the car, in a garage, and have some buddies of yours help you out...Start EARLY in the morning, so that you have most of the day to work, doing with daylight just made it easier. We thought we could have this done in a day, but we were wrong. Me and my 5 friends started on Friday and finished on Sunday, and we all have a lot of automotive experience under our belts.

      Now well I have a FMIC, I’ll try my best to advise the Stock intercooler people out there what to do as well, even tho I HIGHLY recommend getting a FMIC or upgraded SMIC. If you think you have bad heat soak with a ko3, forget about it with the ko4.

      First things first, jack the car up and take the front bumper off(more space to work with under there) and take off the neg. side of the battery (for safety)

      I decided to clean my MAP sensor before doing anything to the car, and I advise most of you to do the same, if you haven’t in a while, it'd be a good idea. You want the car to be getting a proper boost reading for the new turbo

      After doing that, you want to start from the back of the motor and work forward, so start out by removing the downpipe and engine heat shield (a few bolts). For you STOCK INTERCOOLER guys, you'll need to remove the upper intercooler pipe, mounts and bolts now as well.
      (Look for one coolant line right below the DP flange)

      While you're underneath the car, have a buddy of your start disconnecting the Air filter or box, MAF and everything connected to the Turbo inlet pipe. Once that's done, while you're still under the car, remove the turbo inlet pipe bolt (for stock TIP's) or undo the clamp of the aftermarket Turbo inlet, removing it as well. When taking the Turbo inlet off, make a note of where that vacuum line connects from back of the TIP to the back of the motor as you'll need to re-connect that with the TT turbo inlet pipe.

      Below: everything just listed removed

      Here's all the parts that just got taken out:

      Now take a peak at that stock turbo! So small!

      and after you've gotten this far, be sure to take a water/food break, it's always good to stay energized while working, fatigue is the worst when working on cars.

      After re-fueling, start taking off the coolant lines. Be SURE to get the turkey pan under there before you start doing this or coolant will be all over your work space, not good. Here's the first coolant line located right next to the cam gear cover and by the round coolant tank, here are 2 pictures of this line disconnected


      and this is that same coolant line from underneath the car:

      Proper turkey pan placement:

      Next located and remove the next coolant line, which is write under the exhaust side of the turbo, circled in this picture (already removed)

      and here it is again, that silver line right underneath the DP

      After letting these 2 lines drip out into the pan, get back under there and find the oil lines. one of them is located right on the oil pan, and looks like this:

      The next oil line is located at the front of the motor, right on top of the oil filter base. It’s a silver nut with a silver braided line coming from it leading to the back of the motor. It’s pretty easy to spot. Reach in like Jason is in this picture from under the intake mani:

      After letting that line drain out, it’s time to take the turbo off the manifold! undo the 3 bolts holding it onto the manifold and it should start to slide out. In order to take it out, you need to discount that FRONT oil line, which should be pretty obvious as the braided oil line runs to the front of the motor. Once that is disconnected, the turbo can be wiggled out!

      When the turbo is out, go ahead and wiggle that front oil line off that you disconnected from the turbo. I advise, this is a PAIN in the neck. It's in the worst area to be wiggled from and the only way to get it out is to bend the bracket that it was attached to on top of the oil filter base to the middle of the line so that it flows smoothly through all the other lines on the side of the motor. Without bending that bracket it will be impossible to get out. Don't be discouraged though, if you get tired while doing it, TAKE A BREAK FROM IT, you don't want to get frustrated and rip or tear a rubber hose because you're not working efficiently.

      The next few pictures is the ko4-20 next to the ko3, I’m removing the lines from the turbo to get at the copper gaskets needed for the new lines (which we then went over to AutoZone and got new gaskets) I must point out here to NOT over tighten the banjo lines on ANY of the coolant or oil lines as they will strip. Snug them WELL, but don't over tighten them.


      ko3

      ko4

      Side by Side

      and hold em up to feel the power difference like chief does here

      While the turbo is out, and your friends are running to the store to grab those copper washers, take out the stock exhaust mani! There are 11 bolts on the manifold, which can be taken out pretty easily, just use a moderately sized breaker bar and you should be fine. (mine had 90k on it when we took it out and it was no big deal at all)

      Now the back of your motor should look like this(all the oil on the axle is from the dripping oil lines, don't worry):

      -Refueling time now for you and your work crew -

      Refueled, go back to the Ko4 and start putting the oil and coolant lines on EXCEPT FOR the front OIL LINE as you have to put this in before cuz its hard to wiggle in as it is, can’t imagine how hard it'd be to do it while attached to the turbo. Make note that you have to bend the bracket a TAD, not as much as you did with the stock one to get it into place.


      Please also make note to NOT connect the front of that front oil line to the oil filter base until AFTER you bolt the turbo to the manifold.

      Now start taking out the coil packs and get rid of those stock plugs, with the amount of boost you'll be running on this turbo, you're gunna need colder plugs. I went with NGK BKR7E plugs.


      Spark plugs and coil packs in, we next test fitted the turbo and manifold, and tried to get the Turbo inlet on. Mind you this takes some time to get everything in. Now from many frustrating hours of work wasted, we realized that the heater core line had to be cut in order to get the Turbo inlet pipe on the turbo.

      Test fitment on the turbo with the lines:

      Im sorry to say that i don't have a pic of the cut heater core line at this time but i can walk you through it. These two lines are the lines in question:

      The heater core line right off of the temperature sensor (bottom left of pic, its a little green sensor) needs to be ran underneath the turbo, up the heat shield and into its proper line mount. The lower one, pretty hard to see in the pic, but can definitely tell from looking in the engine bay, is a hard line into a soft line. The hard metal line needs to be cut about 3 inches, just before the line starts to become flat on one side so that you can still clamp to it. Once you cut that with the Sawz-all from the top of the motor, take that line and run it under and up the right side of the yellow brake fluid reservoir (located on the right side of the pic, has a yellow cap and the word MAX on it.) and in between the little fuse box (the black box on the right side of the pic). After running it in-between those, run it over to its connector, making sure NOT TO CRIMP any of those 2 lines.

      I did that by using a lot of male to male connectors (the size of the heater core, I think 3/8? I can’t remember at the moment) a lot of 90 degree bend heater core lines and clamps.

      Once that is done, you're pretty much in the clear. Start by fitting the turbo inlet pipe properly, it should have a clear pathway now that the heater core lines are out of the way. Make sure everything is clearly properly and not hitting anything, like we're doing here:

      With all that done, TAKE ANOTHER BREAK! and or sleep, so far this is 2 days of work that we did. A result of not taking breaks, lol:

      ^^DONT LET THIS HAPPEN TO YOU!^^

      Now i had a couple of my friends start working on getting the downpipe and test pipe cut and welded. I had previously a 2.5" GHL Down-pipe that i had on the car, so we cut it up and used it for the 2.5" Audi TT downpipe. Here chief is cutting the stock flange off the DP:

      After cutting the flange off, we cut the rest of the downpipe up, leaving the flex pipe out, for a good reason. When we cut the downpipe up, we could see the flex pipe crystal clear. To my absolute HORROR this is what I saw:
      Exhaust side

      Turbo side

      I could not believe this, absolute JUNK, this DP has been on my car for 9 months now and I have no idea how long it’s been like this. But just IMAGINE the backpressure from that damn thing, that second pic is the side that the turbo was trying to push exhaust through. We measured the hole and it was ONLY open a 1/4 of an INCH! FANTASTIC! I don't know who to blame: GHL or the makers of the flex pipe or GHL for using that JUNK of a flex pipe. You be the judge.

      After that catastrophe of an old downpipe, they started welding the test pipe:

      While they were welding the DP, i started pulling the injectors, and put the white tops in, with their appropriate spacers(circled in yellow)

      I understand that not everyone has a welder at their disposal and or knows how to weld, so one thing you can do is bring the TT down pipe flange and have it welded, here is a pic of how it looks installed:

      The front o2 is sticking up in that pic and the downpipe snakes down from there, here's my best drawing of it

      Now its time to start buttoning everything up!

      Start by getting the turbo and lines in the FIRST before you put the manifold on, as it will b hard/impossible to get it in without the manifold there. Connect the END of that front oil line to it but NOT the front of it (the side going to the oil filter base). Once that's connected with the proper copper gaskets, get the exhaust manifold gasket on the studs. Now get the manifold on the studs, get the new washers and nuts on there and start tightening! Tighten them well, but not so much to strip.

      Make sure to put the turbo to mani gasket on top of the turbo before installing!

      here's the turbo installed on the manifold:

      After that, start installing the coolant and oil lines. Go back on how to remove them and trace the steps backwards on how to install them. It's pretty straight forward on where they go once the turbo's in place. Just make sure all the banjo bolts (the bolts on the lines) have proper gaskets on them and that you match the oil line on the oil with the right set of gaskets. Make sure to NOT over tighten these like i said before.

      Now get the downpipe put in. Make sure to install the downpipe to turbo gasket before installing the downpipe. Tighten the nuts well, they should seal properly with a good snug.

      With all the lines good and tight, now its time to get the turbo inlet pipe on. Put it on the turbo and tighten the clamp on it, make sure this is TIGHT! with it in the right place, start installing the Diverter valve, N75 valve, vacuum line connecting to the back of the motor, PCV valve, MAF, and Filter.


      Modified by J-tec at 8:00 AM 11-27-2007


      Modified by J-tec at 8:20 AM 11-27-2007


      Modified by J-tec at 8:32 AM 11-27-2007

      Last edited by J-tec; 03-23-2011 at 11:33 PM.

    2. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 01:18 AM #2
      Now this is where it splits from the FMIC and Stock SMIC guys, first I’ll start with the SMIC and then FMIC.

      SMIC: Install the 90 degree silicone hose (red hose in first picture) to the top of the turbo that's sticking out towards the firewall. Then connect that Audi TT upper intercooler pipe to it and clamp it, connect the other end and you're set.

      FMIC- For those of you that bought the FMIC kit that i did my other DIY on, this is what you need to do. Flip the 1st pipe, 180 degrees so that the DV and n75 bung is closer to the filter now. Clamp the other side to the turbo with the silicone coupler. Then take the 2nd intercooler pipe, the one that goes down next to the battery and test fit it. Make a mark on the bottom of the pipe of where you need to cut it to match it up to the 1st intercooler pipe. Examine this and then re-examine it before you cut.

      Once you've made the final decision on where to cut, cut the pipe and make sure to clean it of all the filings. Then install and clamp to 1st intercooler pipe. Reconnect all the necessary vacuum hoses to the pipe and examine for any loose connections.

      After all that, it should look like this!

      After all that, you have successfully taken out your stock turbo and installed a ko4-20! take a step back and just enjoy your work, have a

      Before starting, make SURE that everything is hooked up and plugged in, look over EVERYTHING. Then fire it up!

      From my experience, when we started it up for the first time, it was terrifying. The car seemed to misfire and all this. After a long debate, and numerous times, it was determined that the injectors given to me were faulty. (kiddo is in the process of taking care of me about that ) so we removed them and put the stock ones in. It seemed to start up better, not as rough, but it still was bucking and shuddering, just acting awful. At this point i felt like crap, BUT! all i had to do was drive it. I had thrown up a bunch of help threads on here, not knowing what was going on, and DiscoStu was there to the rescue in his R32!!! DISCOSTU YOU'RE THE MAN for coming over with Vag-com last minute to scan the car, i REALLY appreciated it!!!

      IF YOU CAR HAS THOSE SYMPTOMS, DONT WORRY!
      -After driving around for about 10 minutes, my ko4 tune adapted to the turbo being there (i got tuned prior to install and had the ko3 on it with the boost limited to 4 psi by a boost controller). The Ecu must adapt, even AFTER resetting the ECU. Resetting it won't anything, from my experience. Now as you know running the car on stock injectors is NOT by any means recommended and i highly suggest to not doing it. Only reason i had to was because my aftermarket ones were defective and i had to get the car out of my friends garage. After driving it on little to no boost to get the car adapted, the car performed like stock again. No shuddering, misfiring, losing vacuum, all that. It had a strong steady idle and a 20-22 vacuum reading on my boost gauge. So do not fear! It’s ok for the car to act up at first. I had thrown some codes, but it was only from unplugging things from the car when the car was in the 'auxiliary' position and had nothing to do with the car adapting. You won't throw any codes when adapting, don't worry.

      Over all I am very happy with the sound and power of the car( the little that I’ve experienced so far). At 2 psi, it feels like 10 on the ko3, no joke. Right now I’m waiting to order new Genesis 380cc injectors from Scott at usrt? and then the car will be in full running order.

      At this point I'd like to thank all my best friends and everyone involved with this project (in no particular order)

      -Mom and Dad
      -Chief (s4evr)
      -Richy
      -Scandie
      -Alex (DiscoStu)
      -Jason
      -Bluebomber
      -Piff
      -Todd
      -Mr.G
      -My wonderful and amazing girlfriend being there for me when I’d get frustrated
      and All of our friends that came by for support

      Without anyone of you this wouldn't have been possible! Those 3 days were ones for the memory books, thanks for making it all possible guys

      And for liability issues, i am not responsible for any mistakes, damages or anything done to your car because of this thread. It's your car, do what you want with it, but don't blame me for your mistakes or anything like that.

      Like always with any of my DIY threads, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE feel free to contact me with ANY Questions or concerns you have with the install!!

      Good luck and Happy Dubbin to everyone! from all of us

      - Jonny -


      UPDATE! So I haven't updated this main page in a while, so here are some fun numbers to check out The car officially made 258whp/270whtq on a dyno dynamics dyno, one humid 85 degree day last summer.

      I also ran a 13.3@104mph in the 1/4 mile with a 1.9 60 ft.

      highest trap on the car was just about 106mph

      and here are some videos of the car:
      http://vimeo.com/1398922
      http://vimeo.com/1172818
      http://vimeo.com/800481

      Again, if you guys have any Q's about this kit or the car, feel free to send an IM
      Modified by J-tec at 8:34 PM 3-9-2008


      Modified by J-tec at 11:16 PM 1-26-2010


      Modified by J-tec at 11:17 PM 1-26-2010


    3. 11-27-2007 01:19 AM #3
      Whoa, awesome writeup haha
      Happy belated birthday, by the way

      Edited for spelling


      Modified by MidNightDrift at 5:52 AM 11-27-2007


    4. Banned butterface's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 01:20 AM #4

    5. 11-27-2007 01:21 AM #5
      Ohh, and:

      I LOL'd


    6. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 01:40 AM #6
      Quote, originally posted by MidNightDrift »
      Whoa, awesome writeup haha
      Happy beltaed birthday, by the way

      hey thanks man, i appreciate that


    7. Member Greg_J's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 01:46 AM #7
      nice write-up, glad someone finally made one
      Quote Originally Posted by ennui_delphian View Post
      Don't anger canadiun lesbian...

    8. 11-27-2007 01:53 AM #8
      another keeper

    9. 11-27-2007 02:01 AM #9
      Ugh, now im gonna need to do this because you made it look so easy.

    10. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:02 AM #10
      nice writeup. I wouldnt torque any of the banjo fittings more than 18-20 ft lbs. Thats the same torque specs that I use on brake lines and stuff so you don't strip them.

      Manifold to block and turbo to manifold torque is probably different. if I had my bentley with me right now I would look them up.

      The DIY is nice. It was kinda sketchy when you said just cut the heater core line. That part needs to be edited if possible because it was kinda confusing.

      All in all it seems to be fairly straightforward install. I'm pretty sure that you could also just buy a 42draftdesigns tt downpipe and it would bolt right up to the turbo. The bad part is that they are like 500 bucks. Custom job is also a good route.

      If I was doing this install I would install all of the turbo, oil and coolant lines, and get the turbo inlet pipe all bolted up, then have my car dollyed down to my fabricator to make a custom 3 inch downpipe and also do any custom fab to my eurojet intercooler piping to make it perfect. The part where you just flipped your intercooler piping around and then cut it also seems kinda sketch. I'm not saying it doesnt work, but by cutting the one end you just lost the beadroll on that end so I wouldnt be surprised if you end up popping it off the top of the turbo when you get to finally hit full boost.


    11. 11-27-2007 02:03 AM #11
      Quote, originally posted by formerly silveratljetta »
      nice writeup. I

      Yup, I read right up until about there


    12. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:05 AM #12
      Quote, originally posted by MidNightDrift »

      Yup, I read right up until about there


      yah because nothing I have to say is very intelligent or worthwhile

    13. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:06 AM #13
      Quote, originally posted by formerly silveratljetta »

      The DIY is nice. It was kinda sketchy when you said just cut the heater core line. That part needs to be edited if possible because it was kinda confusing.

      If I was doing this install I would install all of the turbo, oil and coolant lines, and get the turbo inlet pipe all bolted up, then have my car dollyed down to my fabricator to make a custom 3 inch downpipe and also do any custom fab to my eurojet intercooler piping to make it perfect. The part where you just flipped your intercooler piping around and then cut it also seems kinda sketch. I'm not saying it doesnt work, but by cutting the one end you just lost the beadroll on that end so I wouldnt be surprised if you end up popping it off the top of the turbo when you get to finally hit full boost.

      Thanks man, yea i tried to make that as clear as possible, when i get back home i'll take more pics of how its set up as the car isn't with me at school now.

      I thought of the pipe popping off because of the beadroll, but i had 2 of my friends tell me before that if you tighten the clamps enough, they really shouldn't come up. They were also running Single snails on their supra's with a couple cut intercooler pipes. If it does i'll be sure to post it up, i'll keep a watch out for it


    14. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:07 AM #14
      Quote, originally posted by MidNightDrift »

      Yup, I read right up until about there

      hahah its ok, constructive criticism


    15. Member formerly silveratljetta's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:10 AM #15
      Quote, originally posted by J-tec »

      Thanks man, yea i tried to make that as clear as possible, when i get back home i'll take more pics of how its set up as the car isn't with me at school now.

      I thought of the pipe popping off because of the beadroll, but i had 2 of my friends tell me before that if you tighten the clamps enough, they really shouldn't come up. They were also running Single snails on their supra's with a couple cut intercooler pipes. If it does i'll be sure to post it up, i'll keep a watch out for it


      I would just have someone beadroll it or weld a bead of aluminum around the edge of it. The worst part is that the pipe that you cut is right on top of the turbo. It is going to get the hottest and see the most vibration.

      I also forgot to mention. Proimports makes a half downpipe for their kit where you can have their downpipe extended to meet your catback. Their little piece is usually about $300, which again IMO is not worth it. If you know a shop that can even half ass weld and have a mandrel bender, then they could fabricate a downpipe in a little over an hour I would imagine.


    16. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:13 AM #16
      Quote, originally posted by formerly silveratljetta »

      I would just have someone beadroll it or weld a bead of aluminum around the edge of it. The worst part is that the pipe that you cut is right on top of the turbo. It is going to get the hottest and see the most vibration.

      Actually the pipe that i cut is the second pipe, in the picture where my friend is measuring where to cut. The one that goes down next to the battery, i cut it at the end of it, which goes into the right side(if looking straight on at the car) of the intercooler piping.


    17. Member TheMunky's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:18 AM #17
      Wow thanks for taking the time to write this up, I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate it.

      Added here - http://vagtools.com/mk4stg3.htm

      quattrodriven > the definitive resource/registry for audi drivers + add your daily driver, project, OEM+ ride, etc and help it grow!

    18. 11-27-2007 02:37 AM #18
      Nice DIY. how do you feel about all the work and time you put it to this project ? any regrets on the ko4 yet ? I know its better then the k03 ?. but damm 3 days of hard work for what maybe 25whp ?
      are you still running the stock injectors ? what was the problem you had after the install?


      Modified by victorhfranco at 11:59 PM 11-26-2007

    19. 11-27-2007 02:41 AM #19
      haha j/k man, I definitely find your comments very informative and helpful

      As far as banjo bolts go, 22-30 lbs is the factory number, depending on which bolts you're speaking of. The banjo bolts on the oil supply lines are 22 lbs and the coolant return line banjo bolting is 26. Also, the oil return line with 30 lbs, so working around those numbers is fine. I usually stick within the factory numbers and haven't had any problems thus far. I'm not too sure about going so low as torquing 18-20 on ALL of them, though.

      The heater core did take one more read-through, but I'm sure it'd tie together once I was actually doing the project. I was thinking about the 42 Draft Designs TT downpipe, but it seems a little too expensive to justify when the price of his kit was $1000, but I would have definitely considered it had I gone about the process.

      I agree with the last part, but hopefully the lost beadroll doesn't work against him once he gets on the boost

      Did anything make you think about the flex pipe up until you finally got a good look at it?

      Also:

      HOLY **** is THAT unsafe!!


    20. Member One Gray GLI's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 02:45 AM #20
      Quote, originally posted by victorhfranco »
      but damm 3 days of hard work for what maybe 25whp ?

      Ouch, that was cold blooded.

      The internet is serious business.

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      11-27-2007 04:31 AM #21
      Quote, originally posted by yel0wsn0 »
      Ugh, now im gonna need to do this because you made it look so easy.


      x2


    22. 11-27-2007 04:33 AM #22
      Quote, originally posted by MidNightDrift »

      HOLY **** is THAT unsafe!!

      X 1000

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    23. Member xxp0werrangersxx's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 05:19 AM #23
      Quote, originally posted by diive4sho »

      X 1000

      WTF X1001


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      11-27-2007 06:32 AM #24
      What kind of intercooler is that. I kinda like it

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      11-27-2007 07:21 AM #25
      nice man. good to see you got it done. i hope my info came in handy.
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    26. Member KubotaPowered's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 07:41 AM #26
      Nice write up, how do you like the power increase?
      Quote Originally Posted by ..Derek.. View Post
      Clearly you aren't familiar with the "Golden Corrado". It's so clinically clean that in the event that you must urinate it must be done at least one zip code away in fear that it may catch a staph infection.

    27. 11-27-2007 08:20 AM #27
      So you used the old tt ex mani with your set up by doing this you have to custom cut ur old dp and have it welded to make it work? Is there anything that you could do just to make it bolt rite up without cutting it and welding it? Like adapter fitting? Like you said not everbody has an access to a tig or mig weld.
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    28. 11-27-2007 08:35 AM #28
      You might want to add "disconnect the battery." I noticed you guys didn't until about half way down.

      We all know you have to hold people's hands around here, so I figured it would be a good thing to add.


    29. Member AnotherReflex's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 09:08 AM #29
      GUY YOU THA MAN!!!
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      IGpiotrekmile

    30. 11-27-2007 09:43 AM #30
      i might look into doing this as well in the spring...save up money over winter....great write-up very helpful in understanding what is needed for the swap. Keep us updated on how the car feels with the k04

    31. Member 01gtiaww's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 10:02 AM #31
      Damn 3 days? I did my k04-20 bymyself in 8 hours. BUt good write up.

    32. 11-27-2007 10:48 AM #32
      awsome work man, gives me some ideas , good luck with the new set up

    33. 11-27-2007 11:01 AM #33
      nice write up
      i'll need this for next summer.

    34. Member J-tec's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 11:11 AM #34
      Quote, originally posted by TheMunky »
      Wow thanks for taking the time to write this up, I'm sure a lot of people will appreciate it.

      Added here - http://vagtools.com/mk4stg3.htm

      Wow thanks man! awsome!!


      Quote, originally posted by victorhfranco »
      Nice DIY. how do you feel about all the work and time you put it to this project ? any regrets on the ko4 yet ? I know its better then the k03 ?. but damm 3 days of hard work for what maybe 25whp ?
      are you still running the stock injectors ? what was the problem you had after the install?

      Honestly the amount of time my friends and i put in was fine, we all didnt mind it at all, we just kept running into issues at times, thus why i made this DIY so people wouldn't have to run into those issues. No regrets on the ko4, if i got an 001 then probably. only 25 whp? hahah you come take a ride in my car, even at 5 psi the thing feels insane. 25whp is with the 001 i believe, not the -20, cuz if thats all i was feeling then i must numb or something.

      The injectors provided were faulty so i have to run stock injectors (the car isn't going anywhere, i just test drove it to let the ECU adapt) until i can get a set of genesis 380cc's.

      Quote, originally posted by MidNightDrift »
      haha j/k man, I definitely find your comments very informative and helpful

      As far as banjo bolts go, 22-30 lbs is the factory number, depending on which bolts you're speaking of. The banjo bolts on the oil supply lines are 22 lbs and the coolant return line banjo bolting is 26. Also, the oil return line with 30 lbs, so working around those numbers is fine. I usually stick within the factory numbers and haven't had any problems thus far. I'm not too sure about going so low as torquing 18-20 on ALL of them, though.

      The heater core did take one more read-through, but I'm sure it'd tie together once I was actually doing the project. I was thinking about the 42 Draft Designs TT downpipe, but it seems a little too expensive to justify when the price of his kit was $1000, but I would have definitely considered it had I gone about the process.

      I agree with the last part, but hopefully the lost beadroll doesn't work against him once he gets on the boost

      Did anything make you think about the flex pipe up until you finally got a good look at it?

      Also:

      HOLY **** is THAT unsafe!!

      Thanks for the comments and the torque specs and no i didnt think anything of the flex pipe until i cut it. I couldnt friggin believe that!!! and i also fixed the picture, because the second one was the same one as the first, go back and look at the second pic now and you'll go

      Quote, originally posted by slammed18bora »
      What kind of intercooler is that. I kinda like it

      Check my sig, i did a DIY on that also

      Quote, originally posted by PIFF »
      nice man. good to see you got it done. i hope my info came in handy.

      it DEF did! thanks again man, you're on the list for people i thanked, sorry i forgot you

      Quote, originally posted by KubotaPowered »
      Nice write up, how do you like the power increase?

      Don't know fully yet because of the injectors, once i get the new ones in, ill be sure to post a video up and my comments as well


    35. Member Malant's Avatar
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      11-27-2007 11:12 AM #35
      Great job man Thanks for the DIY!

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