| Approaching 160K miles my daily driven 1.8T was starting to show its age in the motor mount area so I picked up a set of the Street Density mounts from Issam at INA. I am only about 30 minutes from 034 but he had a great price and helped answer a bunch of questions I had. While I have replaced pretty much all of the suspension bushings with there TT/R32 counterparts I had been running the same motor mounts for the life of the car spare a Prothane poly insert on the dog-bone mount. Car is also an automatic so prone to greater vibrations when idling at lights, in traffic, etc. Removing the mounts is not too difficult and can be done in a couple of hours. First put the front of the car on stands and keep your floor jack handy to support the motor as you swap out the mounts. I recommend starting on the driver's side as it helps to drop the motor a bit to remove the mount on that side. Remove the air box and the battery. From there remove the 2 bolts holding the wire support to the battery tray and the 4 bolts holding the battery tray. Remove the tray and push the wires and the plastic support towards the front of the car.
 Next remove the cover to the wire conduit that runs under the airbox and into the rain tray. The cover has a couple of clips on the side and two down by the battery tray. You also have to pull up the rubber seal to the rain tray. Should look like below
 From there put your floor jack under the tranny using a piece of wood to help with the weight distribution. Remove the 2 large bolts holding the mount to the tranny. Push the wire conduit towards either fenders to remoev the two large bolts holding the mount to the car. There is also one small bolt closest to the driver's side fender. Using the floor Jack lower the tranny/motor a bit to help to get the mount out. Comparing the stock (left) and Street Density mount (right) they are near identical spare the VW/Audi stamping. The casting on Street Density mount is a bit rougher but not in any way bad in quality. It is also a little thicker on the shoulders.
 I opted for the additional bolt set as my local dealer had none of the bolts in stock. Most of the bolts for the mounts are stretch bolts and VW recommends replacing them each time they are removed. It was not OEM hardware but properly sized etc. The small bolt on the left is not a stretch bolt and does not have to replaced so I opted to use the stock bolt. The only complaint I have about the hardware is that the OEM hardware has a flanged head and a guide point to help install. The included new hardware did not have flanged heads and was threaded to a straight end. I did not like how the non-flanged bolts sat on the oval holes mount to the tranny/engine so I reused the stock bolts with a little bit of loc-tite. The flanged head OEM bolts sat on more area of the mount. A washer would have probably worked fine but I did not have any large enough.
 On the passenger side of the car you have to remove the two phillips head screws holding the coolant reservoir and the stud holding the power steering reservoir. The stud for the power steering has a wire clip on top of it. Unclip the part holding the wire and then simply unthread it off of the stud. If you pull it off it will be damaged. Position your floor jack under the engine using that same piece of wood. In addition to that stud there are 2 bolts securing a bracket from the mount to the body of the car. Remove those and the stud. Push the fuel and coolant lines around to gain access to the bolts holding the mount to the engine bracket. Flip the coolant reservoir and push the power steering reservoir out of the way to access the two bolts holding the mount to the body fo the car.
 In my case this mount showed the most wear. It was noticeably compressed ~.5 cm!

 Other that the only difference again is the casting is a bit rougher and you can see above that the support through the mount is hollow on the Street Density. 
Again the included hardware does not have a flanged head. On the passenger side it is a little bit more difficult to access the bolts to eh engine bracket as the coolant/fuel lines are in the way. You could remove them but it is far faster and easier to just push them around. I again reused the stock bolts to the engine as the flanged bolts grabbed more and where a lot easier to guide into the holes into the bracket.
 The dog-bone mount is the easiest to install so I saved it for last. Position the floor jack under the tranny and remove the two bolts going into the subframe and the two going into the tranny. Notice that the longer bolt goes through the bushing. The bolt passing through the Street Density mount did have a flanged head in this case. Though the flange was the same diameter of the stock mount bolt the head was actually smaller.
 The small bushing of my stock mount has noticeably aged and was significantly harder than the new one of the Street Density mount which had a lot of play. This small bushing of the street Density was not solid but identical to the OEM. I was expecting it to be solid but maybe it is on the Track Density mount.
 Mounting hardware is similar. I used all of the new hardware as it was passing through straight holes and not the oval holes of the side mounts.
 First short drive showed remarkable improvement over the stock side mount/poly dog-bone setup. Even considering that my stock side mounts where very worn the Street Density mounts were remarkably firmer without the harsh vibrations of the poly dog-bone. I drive a lot of VWs and this setup is how the MKIV should have come stock. So far it does not transmit any noticeable vibrations into the car (even with the AC on) and the NVH is improved such that considerably less noise is heard in the interior of the car. The car feels lighter as the engine is properly supported on all sides accompanied by a reduction in the initial lag at acceleration. I HIGHLY recommend this setup up for any daily driven car, even my wife likes it! Don't just replace your dog-bone mount as was so popular when no other options were available. These mounts are true drop in, OEM looking mounts that surpass the stock mounts in every way. If VW had not been looking at it s hot-hatch heritage and not trying to broaden its market when it developed the MKIV GTI these are the mounts they would have used. My only complaint is the hardware kit as reused half of the stock bolts but that is easily remedied by buying the OEM bolts. I will be taking a road trip this weekend and will really push the mounts a bit to see how they break in. Torque Specs: Tranny Larger bolts to tranny (x2) 44 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn Smaller bolts to body (x2) 30 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn Small bolt to fender (x1) 18 ft-lb Engine Larger bolts to engine(x2) 44 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn Smaller bolts to body (x2) 30 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn Small bolts for black bracket to fender (x2) 18 ft-lb Dog-bone Small bolts to subframe (x2) 15 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn Longer bolt to tranny through bushing (x1) 30 ft-lb Shorter bolt to tranny (x1) 30 ft-lb plus 1/4 turn OEM Bolt PNs Tranny N 102 096 03 (x2) N 905 969 02 (x2)
Engine N 102 096 03 (x2) N 905 969 02 (x2) Dog-bone N 102 683 02 (x2) N 102 466 03 (x1) N 905 970 01 (x1) |